Tag Archives: Travel

Downstate in Lincoln, Illinois

Trying out my Illinois lingo: word has it anywhere in the state south of I-80 is “downstate” although some northern Illinois places are deemed downstate by some.

Lincoln is definitely downstate, almost 3 hours south of Chicago. We were there for a sad occasion- a memorial service- but it turned out to be an interesting place, with a grand stone and domed courthouse and fairly alive town square that reminded me of some of Iowa’s more economically healthy county seats, like Winterset.

Prairie Threads and nextdoor Airbnb

Around the square are some pretty restored 19th century buildings and interesting shops including Prairie Threads, a great menswear store in a beautifully restored building with a painted stamped tin ceiling and a long wooden bar with stained glass. Its sister store is the nearby The Bee boutique. Spirited Republic is a lively brewpub with exposed brick walls. There’s a coffee house and a tea house (goofy name: Sir Renna Tea.) I made one small purchase (30 percent off retirement sale!) at Mary Todd’s Hallmark Shop, presumably named after Abe Lincoln’s wife. Turns out the courthouse was built in 1905, replacing the 1858 one that Abe worked in as a lawyer.

Lincoln is reportedly the only city named after Abraham Lincoln before he was president. (Take that Lincoln, Nebraska!) It’s also on the old Route 66. Take it away AI:

  • Named before presidency: Lincoln was named for Abraham Lincoln in 1853, before he became president. He was present for the christening, which involved cutting a watermelon and using its juice to christen the town. 
  • Legal career: Lincoln practiced law in the area from 1847 to 1859, and the Postville Courthouse, where he tried cases, is now a state historic site. 
  • Route 66: The city’s location on U.S. Route 66 made it a notable stop for travelers. 

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Miner’s Castle (Pictured Rocks), Black Rocks (Presque Isle), Saturday Farmers Market/Babycakes bakery/Snowbound books/zero degrees Gallery, Vierling restaurant/brewery – Marquette in U.P.

Miners castle overlook

If we had to have rain, Marquette was the place to have it. The small city, the U.P.’s largest city, is full of great shops, cool old buildings, beautiful views of the water.

Fortunately the rain held off until after we visited the famous Miners Castle, a tall tower of water sculpted rock that’s a highlight of the Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore. The easy to access overlook also offers a sunning view of the high wall of orange-pink stone rising above the dazzling green and blue water of Lake Superior.

Black Rocks

Rain halted our plan to hang out at Miners Beach although we did manage to picnic near the beach before the downpour. The storm made the scenery even more dramatic (that’s the bright way of seeing things) with the sky its own drama of clouds, mist, from dark grey to light grey to bright white.

Vierling restaurant

I’d been told I’d like Marquette and I do! It’s an interesting and attractive place with college kids (this is the home of Northern Michigan University), artists, makers and, I’ve been told, Democrats! (Amen.) the city reminds us a bit of Duluth, with lots of grand old buildings in town and industrial fishery/mining buildings on the water. It also has a gorgeous park with jagged black rocks north of town on Presque Isle, where daredevil kids jump off high black rocks into the cold water.

Wedding photo on black rocks

Favorite shops/restaurants: baby cakes muffins (also excellent takeaway sandwiches, lemonade), zero degrees gallery (in the cool third Street corridor), the thoughtfully curated Snowbound books, Marquette co-op (which reminded me of the coop in Iowa City). We also enjoyed the Saturday farmers market (lots of flowers and tomatoes but no fruit, which I’ve been craving). We had a great dinner at Vierling brewery, a famous old place in a brick building by the waterfront, it was packed at 6:39 on. A Saturday but we found two seats at the bar and I had absolutely delicious whitefish piccata with wild rice.

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Alpine Meadows, “the Lake,” emerald Bay, bridgetender – in and around Tahoe City

This is definitely the most scenic location I’ve phonebanked for Kamala from! Amazing that I can sit in a sweet chalet in the wooded Sierra Nevada mountains of Tahoe and call prospective voters in Michigan.

We have done other more Tahoe activities since arriving at my cousin’s spacious second home in Alpine Meadows, just north of Tahoe City (and the spectacular lake) and 13 miles south of the hip western town of Truckee. I’ve wanted to visit this area ever since the 1990s when we turned down a last minute invite (from Scott’s parents) to stay at a borrowed palatial home on the Nevada side of the lake in Incline Village. This home, which has four bedrooms and can sleep around 9 (it’s available for vacation rental) is palatial enough!

Emerald Bat (and the sole island in Lake Tahoe)

We’ve enjoyed sitting on the back deck, eating lunch with a Mountain View, surrounded by pine trees.

The pier in Tahoe city

The helpful woman at the tourist office in Tahoe City sent us off with a map of the city and a short walk along the water and a bigger map of the entire lake. She sent us to Emerald Bay, near sunset, where the water is indeed emerald green, in contrast to the stunning blues of the rest of the lake.

The view from on high at Inspiration Point

There’s a good scenic overlook where we looked out at the small island in the bay , the lanes only island, word has it..

Dinner was an excellent cheese and bacon burger cooked just as requested, at Bridgetender, a rustic tavern full of wood tables and countertops and woodsy art. We’re told it’s a favorite of locals and so it seemed, which worked for us! We also stopped at the West Shore market, a little bougie place but decided we could get what we needed at the local Safeway in Tahoe City.

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Ohio Turnpike, Milan (Ohio) Melon Days, West End Ale Haus (Bloomsburg, PA) – Driving from Chicago to the Hudson Valley (NY)

As a kid driving from suburban Detroit to eastern Pennsylvania with my mom, I was excited when we first crossed the Ohio border into western Pennsylvania, only to soon discover (or remember) how long Pennsylvania is. Still, as we drive on I-80 today, decades later, I’m happy to leave the flat straight Ohio turnpike behind, in favor of a mountainous stretch of I-80 lined with trees (although preferably not driven in the rain).

Great dog-Friendly find

Unlike Iowa I-80 rest stops which have many appealing amenities (trust me), the Ohio turnpike rest-stop west of Cleveland offered no picnic tables or outdoor spaces to eat our picnic fare, let alone with a dog. Grrr. So we ended up taking a brief detour to the small town of Milan, west of Cleveland, which we learned is the home of Thomas Edison. We didn’t see his house, that we know of, but we saw many stately wood Victorian and 19th century red brick homes.

The town was packed with people attending the annual Milan Melon Days (as the street banner we drove under informed us). We found a public park with many picnic tables under a shelter, old playground equipment, and a pleasant view of a grassy slope lined with willow and pine trees. Worked.

Why does it always rain on highway 80 along the scenic but scary stretch through the mountains of western Pennsylvania? At least this trip, the rain was intermittent and Dirck was driving. (I had a much scarier ride years ago while driving solo with the kids in a downpour. Lots of trucks, curving road.)

We got lucky with a terrific dog-friendly pub (thanks Bringfido.com) m, the West End Ale Haus, in the small town of Bloomsburg, where we showed up just before the kitchen closed at 9 p.m. The server couldn’t have been nicer and the cheese burgers were perfect. We were the only diners outside on a Saturday night, with the occasional souped -up car dragging Main Street. Millie enjoyed her strawberry Greek yoghurt frozen treat.

Now we are at a somewhat grim but dog- friendly red roof inn a few miles east (Bloomsburg-Mifflinville).The woman at the front desk looked miserable and when I asked how she was doing, she said she had a headache and no Tylenol so I fished some ibuprofen out of the glove compartment for her.

No breakfast so I won’t get my on-the-road Raisin Bran fix. No carpet in our spacious but spartan room, disabled accessible, which was okay until about 1:45 am when people arrived above us in what I’m guessing was also an uncarpeted room. They sounded like a bunch of elephants dragging roller bags and rearranging the furniture for hours. Who needs sleep?

Milan, Ohio

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Absolute Bagel-Rita’s frozen custard – Do Hwa korean food in NYC

I’ve been somewhat lost on the bagel front ever since H&M Bagels closed on the upper west side of NYC. But yesterday I stumbled into Absolute Bagels on Broadway near 107th street and was impressed with the bagels, not to mention the lox-cream cheese and bagel sandwich. So all  is not lost. A little further south as I was walking down Broadway on a spectacular spring day, I happened upon  Rita’s frozen custard – and since frozen custard something I rarely find these days, I bought a small cone. Yum. I walked all the way from 108th to Central Park (with a stop at Pinky’s for a splurge mani-pedi because my back was aching and I needed to rest for a bit) then back west to Lincoln Center where I took the #1 train to meet my brother and sister-in-law and her mother for dinner at an excellent Korean restaurant, Do Hwa, at 50  Carmine Street. Now I understand why they like Korean food! (we had very good bbq beef, bimimbob, a pancake with kimchi in it, and beignets, oddly, on the house.)

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Antiques in eastern Iowa!

Squiers Manor Bed & B

Newly married and new to Iowa (way back in 1990), we used some of our wedding gift money to buy some furniture at Banowetz Antiques in Maquoketa, Iowa. We still use the chair, end tables, dresser and dining room dresser, which have not only added character to our home but proved very functional. (They must have made stuff well 100 years or so ago.) So the news that Banowetz is not going out of business – as I’d once heard – is good. They’re having a “grand re-opening sale” at their new location at 123 McKinsey Drive in Maquoketa april 14-29. If you want to stay overnight, check out the Squiers Manor B&B, a gorgeous place the Banowetz family operates in town that,yes, is full of antiques. And it is Squiers (named after J.E. Squiers who built the brick Queen Anne style mansion in 1882.)

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Archie Bunker’s chair! Ben Franklin’s Walking stick! American Stories exhibit at D.C.’s Smithsonian!

Fairmount Fire Company volunteer firefighting outfit

One of the more entertaining ways to soak in history is to study the history of things – so a new Smithsonian exhibit that presents history through a timeline of artifacts, including pop culture junk,  is right up my alley. The National Museum of American History’s new exhibit includes over 100 “iconic items” dating back to the Pilgrim’s arrival in 1620 (iconic item #1: a piece of Plymouth Rock.). Other items include a slave ship manifest, Dorothy’s ruby slippers from the “Wizard of Oz”,  and a Barack Obama campaign button written in Hebrew. (Hey, I have a Bill Clinton campaign button written in Hebrew!) There’s also a mobile app for the exhibit with more info on each object – in English and our new second U.S. language, Spanish. The exhibit is called American Stories and to see more of what’s in it (including the hat above) see: http://66.147.244.104/~amerifl5/americanstories/

I’ll be in DC in June and this is definitely on my list! I remember an exhibit at the Iowa State Historical Museum that took a similar approach to the sixties – that made me feel a bit like an relic myself as I pointed out to my then-little kids such once-familiar items as “hot pants.”

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a longtime fan of Iowa’s Loess Hills

While I’m at it, here’s a travel story I wrote about the Loess Hills many years ago for the DMRegister.

Loess Hills Loess Hills, Iowa (Sylvan Runkel Preserve)

A new observation area offers a glorious panoramic view of the short, soft hills.

By BETSY RUBINER
9/4/1997

Moorhead, Ia. – Talk about a deck with a view.

If you’re looking for a new way to take in a beautiful expanse of Iowa’s Loess Hills, check out the huge observation deck recently built near Preparation Canyon State Park, off Highway 183 between the small towns of Pisgah and Moorhead.

Several times the size of your average suburban back-yard number, this simple wooden deck sits on a hilltop overlook long known to locals as “The Spot.”

For good reason.

The spot offers a glorious panoramic view of the short, soft hills that are considered a geographical wonder. A narrow band of mini-mountains stretching from just north of Sioux City south to the Missouri border, the Loess Hills were fashioned from silt deposits or “loess” blown in from the Missouri River floodplain more than 14,000 years ago.

To find another area like it, you’d have to make a much longer trek – to China’s Yellow River.

Before the observation deck was built this spring, locals “used to just crawl up on top of the hill and sit there,” says 41-year Moorhead resident Pat Severson.

For good reason.

The spot marks the convergence of five different ridges. On high, the land seems to stretch forever, free of the stain of civilization. Sure, to the west, farms dot the Missouri Valley flatlands. But it’s still easy to pretend you’re all alone with the birds.

The deck extends outward, offering the kind of aerial view you get flying in a plane over Iowa. Looking down, you see a bumpy quilt, with alternating patches of lush green woods and grassy fields.

Getting to “The Spot” is half the fun. Driving south from Moorhead on Highway 183, you turn right on a road still described by locals as “the second right” even though it now sports a sign designating it as 314th Street (for the edification of the emergency medical service).

At the top of the hill, you jog to the right. (If you go left, you’re in the 344-acre Preparation Canyon State Park, the site of an 19th century Mormon settlement that’s now popular for hiking and picnics.) Soon after, you take another right onto a gravel road marked as Oak Avenue.

This puts you pretty much in the middle of nowhere.

But what ho! It’s a really big deck!

If you’re lucky – and chances are you will be – you’ll be the only one there. It’s so quiet you can hear the wind.

The deck is also wheelchair accessible, thanks to a long wide ramp winding up to it. There are also several benches on the deck from which to contemplate the view.

This spot really isn’t that hard to find but it’s wise to have more than a few gallons of gas in your tank when touring the Loess Hills. You may want to call the visitor’s center in Moorhead, in advance, to get a map of the area or drop by for one.

The map plots out several scenic loops through the Loess Hills; offers tips on highways most suitable for bicycles and cars; and marks Loess Hill attractions, large and small, from the De Soto National Wildlife Refuge to an abandoned country school.

Diligently detailed, the map also comes in handy for the adventurous traveler who likes to get lost. Plenty of remote roads winding through and around the Loess Hills will give you that impression. But just when you think you’re lost, you’ll come to an intersection – complete with street signs – and discover you’re not lost at all.

What ho! You’re at the corner of Olive Avenue and 235th Street. And there it is on the map.

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Iowa Loess Hills Prairie Seminar – one-of-a-kind seminar in a one-of-a-kind place

File:Loess hills.jpg

Okay there is one other place like Iowa’s Loess Hills but it’s far away in China. Considered a geographical wonder, the hills are a narrow band of mini-mountains stretching from just north of Sioux City south to the Missouri border, fashioned from silt deposits or “loess” blown in from the Missouri River floodplain more than 14,000 years ago.

We took our kids when they were little to the Loess Hills Prairie Seminar in western Iowa with two other families and it was, to say the least, memorable – we learned how to cook on an open fire, all about the flora, fauna and animals of the prairie, how to search for fossils. We camped, we ate a church supper in town and at a cookout under the stars.  One parent and several kids even got lost for a few hours while on a hike! Very glad to see the seminar is still up and running. Word has it there’s a Missouri River Ecology boat tour, which sounds pretty cool. For info about the 2012 seminar  and to register visit the Programs and Services section of the Northwest AEA website at:

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Roanoke Island in Outer banks – maybe it’s fate?

So when I googled “quaint, historic, duck, outer banks” (or something like that) to find a place to stay with our English friends, google sent me to some sweet cottages in Manteo on Roanoke Island, which as fate would have it turns out to be  the site of The Lost Colony –  a 16th century colony of 117 Brits that disappeared mysteriously. So perhaps this is the perfect place to visit with our British friends (a little re-colonizing perhaps) or not?

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