Tag Archives: Peru

Great day in Lima

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Great day in Lima. The place we are staying is extraordinary.
We woke up this morning to discover that we are staying in an art gallery. There is art everywhere…huge bronze sculpted horses and other figures on the green lawn outside our balcony overlooking the sea and on the floor below us whole rooms full of paintings, sculpture, ceramics, mosaics. For our break laser we went outside our timbered house into a courtyard again full of dramatic sculptures, several pre-columbian influenced into a kitchen made of wood, brick, cast iron, everywhere we looked was a sight. The best sight of all was our son n. who we haven’t seen since August. We wandered with him down some curving steps at the edge of the back lawn and found ourselves at a stunning ceramic pool surrounded by ceramics and sculpture and beautiful vegetation. We heard some music coming from another building with vaulted brick ceilings. And lo and behold it was the artist victor Delfin, whose art is all over this place. He was painting a large canvas with a palate of heavy oils with the ocean crashing onto the shore behind him. He showed us all around his studio and more rooms filled with his dramatic art. I highly recommend this place…Second Home Peru. later in the day we saw a hinge sculpture by Delfin in a lovely park on a high cliff overlooking the ocean in the Miraflores neighborhood.
We are nearby in the arty Barranco neighborhood. Midday we went to Miraflores to meet the family our son is living with. lovely people. They took us to a private club down by the beach …Club de Rigatos in the Chorrillos neighborhood where we had our first proper Peruvian meal at San Telmo Cafe. The place was packed with people enjoying Sunday lunch. I had a delicious seafood soup in a flavorful red broth packed with clams, fish, octopus. We also tried some other classic dishes: causa (yellow mashed potatoes with lemon, chili and garlic sculpted into a block layered with different fillings. we had one with crabmeat, another with chicken. We also tried a delicious creamy drink called algarrobina, that reminded me a little of baileys but better and a passion fruit pisco sour.

Later we went to a remarkable outdoor mall tucked into a cliff by the ocean that you couldn’t tell was a mall from the road. Full of people. We had churros, which we dunked in thick hot chocolate and split a sandwich named after the snack bar we ate at called Manolo, that was packed with chicken, ham, bacon, cheese, and a pickle. I have to agree with my son that the pickle added that je ne sais quas…or whatever the Spanish equivalent is. We walked part of the way back to barranca on a balmy humid night high above the coastline which looked magical lined with light and a lit up cross in the distance.

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November 5, 2012 · 3:14 am

Machu Picchu – still trying to figure out HOW to buy advance tickets

 

The ruins viewed from the Guardian’s Hut

I have never – ever – had such trouble figuring out how to buy tickets for a place in my life. It’s maddening. I have not been able to get  clear answer on 1) if I need advance tickets in November to visit Machu Picchu? 2) If there is any way to get advance tickets?

The Peruvian government has a website to reserve the tickets but because you can no longer use a credit card of any type to pay for them (due to problems with credit card fraud, apparently) it’s highly unclear how the reservation system works. There are all kinds of stipulations that frankly don’t make much sense. Below is the latest missive I got from the Peruvian government website folks. Clear as mud….(My concern is that we’ve spending a lot of time and money to go to the site – we’ve booked planes, trains, a hotel etc – and apparently there is a limit on how many tourists can visit so I certainly would prefer to reserve or buy tickets in advance. But maybe I don’t need to – because we’re not in the peak tourism season. Or maybe I just plan cannot!)

Dear Betsy

We are so sorry but Visa had so many problems with stolen  and cloned cards that they preferred to cancel the payment system from abroad, all foreign card payments are suspended due to the high level of fraud presented.
We don’t accept any other kind of payment.

Probably visa won’t accept the payment until the next year.


If you have already employed a hotel o some service in Cusco they are able to help you to purchase your ticket.

Another option is to contact to some travel agency.

On our website 
www.machupicchu.gob.pe – Consultas (Queries)- agency, you can see the list of the travel agency.
Remember that you have 6 hours to make the payment or your reservation will be cancelled. 


However if you want to visit only Machupicchu City, you can buy your tickets with 3 to 2 day in advance, if you want to visit Machupicchu and Huaynapicchu you need buy your tickets with 2 weeks in advance.


In Perú: 

You can make your reservation on our website 
www.machupicchu.gob.pe and pay Any office of the Banco de la Nación it is necessary to bring the printed RESERVATION FORMAT; Hours of Availability: Monday to Friday from 8:00 – 17:30 hrs and Saturday from 9:00 – 13:00hrs. Only you can pay in cash and Soles (Peruvian currency).  

In Cusco:
In our authorized offices located on Av. De la Cultura Nº238 Condominio Huascar Wanchaq. Hours availability from Monday to Saturday  07:15 – 18:30. you can book and pay
The AATC (Association of voyages and travel agencies) located on Calle Nueva Baja N º 424, Cusco –  Peru Phone: (084) 22-2580. Hours of availability: Monday to Friday from 9:00 – 16:00hrs.  you can pay just with Visa Card     

Remember that 
you have 6 hours to make the payment or your reservation will be cancelled.       

Thanks for your understanding.


Sincerely,
 

CALL CENTER
DIRECCION REGIONAL DE CULTURA CUSCO
Facebook, Skype y Twitter: DRC Cusco Ministerio de Cultura Call Center
e-mail: callcenter@drc-cusco.gob.pe
Telefono: (51) 84 236061
Direccion: Av. de la Cultura Nº238 Condominio Huascar Wanchaq – Cusco, Perú

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Delano district, old town, Vietnamese-Cajun food in wichita

After barreling down interstate 35 for six hours, much of the time in the dark and rain, we made it to Wichita at about midnight. Did I really live there? It seems another life, another person, another time. And it was 1987. Wichita had some surprises then and it has them now, little pockets of coolness that a come as a pleasant surprise. The Delano district, a five-or-so block stretch of west Douglas, west of the Arkansas river (that’s pronounced aR-Kansas river I quickly learned when I moved to Kansas from connecticut, and don’t you forget it) wasn’t mUch during the late 80s, sort of a poor man’s downtown with nuts and bolts shops, the carpet shop, the auto body shop. There were always a few interesting places that are still there like Hat man jack’s, a great hat store (where I bought a floppy hat for our Peru trip) and the original Nuway, a loose meat sandwich shop. Now there are lots of restaurants,belittle boutiques, bakeries, tattoo parlours. Among our favorites:

Sugar sisters bakery, bike man, Sweet cheeks (for hip-organic chic mommies and babies),la galette cafe and crepes, TJ’s Burger House….you get the idea.

We also stopped briefly at the old town farmers market downtown where a bluegrass string band planned near the cold ales Keen Kutter building, now a hotel. We picked up some succulent plants for a song, at a stand run by a nice transsexual woman,drank some good cherry lime made, entered a raffle for a quilt run by deaf Kansas. On the way back we hope to try a Vietnamese-Cajun restaurant we just read about in the nytimestravel section. Surprise!

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Sending my son off to Peru…without a smart phone

 

 

One of the hardest things about dropping my son off at the airport in Omaha this morning is that he didn’t take his smartphone with him (he won’t be able to use it in his destination city: Lima). So of course right after we exchanged our last wave, just before he went through the x-ray machine, – me crying, him looking a little concerned – I thought of something I wanted to tell him. And I couldn’t. Soon enough he’ll be somewhere that he can email us from but not having the ability to text is tough. It’s not like we text that much – I try not to. But not having the option stinks.  It makes me wonder how my parents coped when I flitted off to Europe and the Middle East for months on end, just roaming without  much of an itinerary, and there was no email or texting option. Back in 1982, our only option – beside very expensive phone calls and not-very-timely postcards – was telegram and I do remember once sending a telegram to my dad for his birthday from Istanbul (when I almost forgot it was his birthday). I made the mistake of wishing him Happy Birthday in  Turkish  – which he of course didn’t understand so I may have unnecessarily alarmed him and my mom. This was only a few years after the movie “Midnight Express” came out…

Anyway, I hope to get an email from my son sometime tomorrow just telling me he’s arrived in Lima safely. Then I’ll be fine. I think.

 

 

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places to visit in peru – Huaca Juliana, Caral, El Carmen,

Pucllana, Huaca Juliana[1] Pucllana with statues of Lima culture priestsPucllana with statues of Lima culture priests

Yes, you could say I’m living vicariously as I read about all the cool places my son will be going during his upcoming semester abroad in Peru. But I may get to visit some of these places too, when we visit him in Lima and beyond. So here are some ideas (with a little help from wikipedia) from the latest itinerary sent by his Peru study abroad program:

  • The Huaca Juliana, or Huaca Pucllana’, is a great adobe and clay pyramid located in the Miraflores district of central Lima, Peru, built from seven staggering platforms. It takes its name from the Quechua word “pucllay,” meaning “game,” which in its entirety can be translated as “a place for ritual games.” It served as an important ceremonial and administrative center for the advancement of the Lima Culture, a society which developed in the Peruvian Central Coast between the years of 200 AD and 700 AD.With the intended purpose of having the elite clergymen (whom politically governed several valleys in the area) express their complete religious power and ability to control the use of all the natural water resources (saltwater and freshwater) of the zone, a Great Pyramid was constructed in the Huaca. As a whole, the structure is surrounded by a plaza, or central square, that borders the outer limits, and by a large structured wall dividing it into two separate sections. In one section there were benches and evidence of deep pits where offerings of fish and other marine life took place in order to attain the favor of the gods. The other section is an administrative area. This area contains various small clay structures and huts made of adobe–with some walls still standing–whose function seemed to be to act as the courtyards and patios of the enclosure which is over 500 meters in length, 100 in width and 22 in height.Other remains have been uncovered belonging to the Wari Culture (500 AD-900 AD), which was a direct influence on the Lima Culture society towards the ends of its time period. Of particular note are the remains of the “Señor de los Unkus” (The Lord of the Unkus), which belonged to the first tomb within the ceremonial center to have been discovered completely intact. This tomb holds three separate burial shrouds containing the remains of three adults–two of which have masks–and those of a sacrificed child.
  • Caral, or Caral-Supe, was a large settlement in the Supe Valley, near Supe, Barranca province, Peru, some 200 km north of Lima. Caral is the most ancient city of the Americas, and is a well-studied site of the Caral civilization or Norte Chico civilization.
  • El Carmen,  the (Afro-Peruvian) district which is predominantly black, with all its cultural manifestations. It is the center of the (Chincha) province of folklore, romantic people happy, boisterous set in a large valley Chincha. It is the bastion of black genre, since the first settlers were blacks of Angola and Mandingo.  Afro-Peruvian culture has thrived in Chincha Alta, and the Afro-Peruvian residents of El Carmen district practice many traditional dances. The use of the Cajón drum, maracas and other traditional instruments figure prominently in Afro-Peruvian music, which is popular throughout the region. Here’s a blog with good information on all things Peru: http://enperublog.com/2011/04/30/perus-african-side-chincha-el-carmen/

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Gathering string for our eventual trip to Peru – Lima, Cusco, Sacred Valley, Amazon!

Our son is studying in Peru this summer and fall so we’re gathering some string in plan for a trip to see him, perhaps in November. Below are suggestions from my  aunt in NYC who was there last December, my friend S. who went there on her honeymoon 12 years ago and some info from Fodor’s and other websites:

Lima – famous Peruvian restaurant ASTRID Y GASTON. This is the flagship restaurant of Peru’s most famous chefs – Gaston Acurio and Astrid Gutsche) Peruvian food is supposed to be among the world’s best. They offer a culinary tour of Peru that looks fantastic: http://taste-of-peru.com/culinary_programs/programs.php;

Frommer’s Review

Hidden discreetly behind a nonchalant facade (though one of an antique colonial house), on a busy side street leading to Parque Central, is this warm and chic modern colonial dining room and cozy bar. It continues to be my favorite restaurant in Peru. Gastón Acurio is the celebrity chef of the moment, with a burgeoning empire of fine-dining restaurants not only in Lima but also a handful of other cities on the continent (one opened in San Francisco in spring 2008) and a cooking show on TV. His signature restaurant in the capital is warm and elegant, with high white peaked ceilings and orange walls decorated with colorful modern art. In back is an open kitchen, where Gastón can be seen cooking with his staff, and a secluded wine-salon dining room. The place is sophisticated and hip but low-key, a description that could fit most of its clients, who all seem to be regulars. The menu might be called criollo-Mediterranean: Peruvian with a light touch. Try spicy roasted kid or the excellent fish called noble robado, served in miso sauce with crunchy oysters. The list of desserts — the work of Astrid, the other half of the husband-wife team — is nearly as long as the main course menu, and they are spectacular.

They are featured in the 2011 documentary about Peruvian food/chefs/farmers and the September gastronomic fair in Lima – Mistura: the power of food.

Mistura: The Power of Food Poster

– for Lima lodging: Second Home Peru in Barranco neighborhood looks like good place to stay, judging from Fodor’s. http://www.secondhomeperu.com/location-second-home-peru.html

Frommer’s Review

Lilian Delfín runs this extraordinary, and unique, small inn in the longtime, coast-hugging home of her father, the well-known Peruvian painter and sculptor Victor Delfín. The place is perfect for the relaxed and still slightly bohemian neighborhood of Barranco. This is no bland B&B; the idiosyncratic 1913 home is replete with artistic flavor — and multiple works by Delfín, who recently turned 80 and continues to paint every day (the artist’s studio and living quarters are apart from the main house, tumbling down the cliff). Though the house overlooks the ocean and the rooms are exceedingly spacious and elegant, the rambling two-story house — something like a Tudor-Craftsman — is probably not for everyone. But many, especially those interested in the arts or spending a few days in town, will find it a magical home away from home in Lima. To my mind, it’s one of the coolest and best-value places to stay in all of Peru. My large room had a beautiful wood floor and beams, a huge picture window framing the misty gray Pacific, deep claw-foot tub, and what felt like the most luxurious linens in Lima. If you ask politely, Lilian may take you to visit her father’s fascinating studio, where a giant puma-head fountain spouts water into the swimming pool (open to guests). But at a minimum, you’ll get to have breakfast at Delfín’s funky, Gaudí-style, neo-medieval kitchen.


Cusco – spend at least two days there, first night that arrive stay in Sacred Valley which is lower altitude (to avoid altitude sickness; My aunt stayed at  Sol and Luna Hotel and ate at Hacienda Huayoccari. Also visited the salt mines?

HACIENDA HUAYOCCARI
While a large part of this valuable cultural legacy is to be found at museums in the City of Cusco, the mansion today houses a vast collection of folk art, with pieces dating back to the seventeenth century. Colonial paintings, ceremonial goblets known as keros, pottery, porcelain, and Huamanga stone relics are just part of what you will discover during your visit. A blend of Spanish traditions with indigenous customs inherited since the dawn of time, this plantation manor is a perfect spot to sample life in the country, learn about typical locally harvested products and admire the colourful flora. This visit culminates with a superb meal prepared with fresh produce of the plantation. The current inhabitants of the house, the Lambarri-Orihuela family, will be your hosts

Hacienda Huayoccari ***

Urubamba Sacred Valley icon, Peru Luxury Tours, Peru luxury travel Homestay / Best available

There are two double bedrooms available in this lovely secluded Hacienda, built in the Fifties by one of the most prestigious families in Cuzco: landowners and art collectors. It is located 2km uphill from the main Cuzco Urubamba road, very near the village of Calca, approximately 1 hour drive from Cuzco.

Huayo Ccari is a private home. The price reflects the privilege of staying in a private home and not the hotel-type facilities of lodging in this category. It provides beautiful surroundings, amazing garden and views, antiques and folk art throughout and delicious food. Electricity goes out when the last person retires and there is no television or international direct dialing. Hot water and electricity 24 hours.

The house is lived-in by its owners and receives guests to private luncheons by appointment only. One of our favourite spots in Peru.

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They hired driver to get to ruins. Fantastic huge market in Cusco. Spend more time here than Macchu Picchu. They stayed at Hotel Monasterio in Cusco. (beautiful, pricey – gets high praise in fodor’s. Another option: La Casona. I like the idea of the Ninos Hotel – not only cheap but proceeds from our stay  at this “children’s hotel” provides medical and dental care, food, etc. for 250 disadvantaged chidlren who attend day care on the premises. Very popular. Need to reserve way ahead. http://www.ninoshotel.com

There’s also a Second Home Cusco: a a Bed and Breakfast located in the historic district of San Blas. Second Home Cusco offers 21St-century comfort in a Colonial house conveniently situated. Second Home Cusco features three junior suites, furnished in an eclectic style. Each Suite has a private bathroom, queen-sized –bed, cable TV, telephone and other amenities to ensure an enjoyable stay. A continental Breakfast is served each morning in the sunny patio.

We also have two sisters locations:
www.laposadadelabuelocusco.com
www.secondhomeperu.com
stay in Ollantaytambo/Cusco: www.elalbergue.com

Macchu Picchu – can do day trip, don’t need to stay overnight.It’s a lower altitude. My friend S. was in Aguas Calientes.

Amazon – Everyone seems to leave from  Iquitos, historic Amazon port city in northeastern corner of Peru.  from Lima spent three nights on a boat. limited hotels.(Fodor’s recomends three-day cruise to Pacaya Samiria Reserve.)

Here’s my friend S’s account: In the rainforest, took  a boat along the Amazon and then the River Napu to some jungle lodges.  We had our own guide there, hiking every day and enjoying really great meals. No hot water, outdoor showers, cots with mosquito netting, a great adventure . The highlight of the rainforest part of the trip was the ability to go up to the canopy on catwalks that ran from platform built around a tree to another. We were quite high, and the catwalks were quite scary  at first.  We launched our trip to the rainforest from Iquitos. At that time, you could only arrive by air or by boat (no roads into the place).

 

Lake Titicata – my cousins went there. lots of birds, big canyon. Aqua something. Fodor’s says the lake is the highest navigable lake in the world.

– My aunt  mentioned pills you can take three days in advance to ward off altitude sickness.

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from the Caipirinha to the Pisco, Brazil to Peru!

Andy Isaacson for The New York Times

From left, a pisco cocktail with golden berry at Huaringas Bar, a Chilcano at Maras in the Westin hotel and El Verdecito, front, at Cala.

My husband came home from a business trip to Brazil a few years ago raving about the Caipirinha rina – a Brazilian cocktail  that’s sort of like a very potent limeade (He brought home sugar can rum so he could mix it with sugar and lime to make us caipirinhas at a neightborhood gathering in Des Moines)  Now comes word from the NYTimes that we’ll have to try the Pisco – the Peruvian national cocktail when we’re in Lima visiting our son next fall when he is studying there.

We’re game! (Here’s the NYT story that ran in today’s travel section.)

Andy Isaacson for The New York Times

Cala, a beachfront spot.

Pisco has been made in the dry coastal valleys of southern Peru since at least the early 17th century, and has become inextricably linked to the country’s identity. The spirit must be served at Peruvian diplomatic functions around the world. The national drink, the pisco sour, is an indigenous marriage of pisco, the distinctive Peruvian lime, egg white and bitters derived from the bark of a Peruvian tree. (It even has its own national day of celebration.)

As Peru’s fortunes have gone, so have those of pisco, reaching a golden age during the flush mineral boom of the late 19th century, when an influx of Italians introduced refined winemaking techniques. In Lima’s bars, pisco flowed copiously back then, though it was Chile that first established the spirit as a denomination of origin in 1931, staking a marketing claim. (Chilean pisco is an altogether different product, with different ingredients and processes that yield a different flavor.) Bleak times followed: amid Socialist land reforms and often violent political conflicts that plagued Peru for most of the last century, the quality and reputation of pisco sank. Limeños defected to foreign whiskey and vodka — anything but pisco, then considered the tipple of old-timers and drunks.

In the last few years, though, as Peru’s circumstances have reversed, dedicated pisqueros are now producing excellent piscos, and the mixology renaissance that has touched many of the world’s cities has also landed in Lima’s bars. Here are four spots in the capital city that, in their own distinctive way, reflect how Peruvians have rediscovered their native spirit.

Cala

On a recent late Friday afternoon, this swank beachfront spot felt like Malibu: from a back patio suspended over the sand, well-tanned patrons sipped cocktails in view of surfers. The cocktails in hand are the creations of Enrique Vidarte, widely considered the city’s most inventive pisco mixologist. His well-balanced concoctions are a perfect showcase for the different pisco varietals: El Verdecito, a delicious green slurried cocktail served in a margarita glass, blends pisco Italia, with a bright citrus and sweet floral nose, together with mint leaves, sugar and Peruvian lime juice (22 nuevos soles, or $8 at 2.73 nuevos soles to the dollar).

The 42 cocktails on Mr. Vidarte’s menu are mostly his own, but there are a few classics, like the Capitán. A dry mix of pisco and red vermouth (the drink’s white and red stripes conjure a Peruvian naval captain’s insignia) and amaretto, the drink is a throwback to the spirited scene of the 1920s at Lima’s Gran Hotel Bolivar, where it was popularized — some believe in response to the drought of American whiskey during Prohibition.

Cala, Avenida Circuito Vial Costa Verde; Playa Barranquito; Espigón B2; Barranco; (51-1) 252-9187; calarestaurante.com.

Bar Inglés, Country Club Lima Hotel

No Peruvian cocktail is more classic than the pisco sour. Invented, paradoxically, by an expat Mormon from Utah named Victor Morris, the recipe was canonized in the 1930s at the Hotel Maury in Lima. These days, the Maury serves a warm, overly sweet version to tourists who don’t know it is not the real thing.

For that, I headed to Bar Inglés, a wood-paneled retreat inside the grand Country Club Lima Hotel, where the drink (26 nuevos soles) is mixed by Roberto Meléndez, and is a direct transmission of the original. (Mr. Meléndez’s father worked at Hotel Maury in the 1940s.)

Mr. Meléndez reached for Pisco Qollqe, one of the new-wave artisanal brands, and measured out a precise ratio: four parts pisco to one part lime, one part simple syrup and an egg white. Shaken and poured into a chilled wine glass, it ended up with a lovely topping of foam. He also added a few drops of bitters for fragrance.

“This,” he said with confidence, “is the same pisco sour that was served at the Hotel Maury.”

Bar Inglés, Los Eucaliptos 590; San Isidro; (51-1) 611-9000; hotelcountry.com.

Mayta

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Next likely travel adventure: Peru

When we were in Hawaii, a fellow traveler at a b&B asked us what are next trip would be? We told him, wherever our son studies abroad next year, most likely Chile. Now our son says he’s taking his semester abroad this fall – and wants to go to….Peru. So Peru it is.

Yet again, it’s a place I know little about so I’m starting to collect some string – including these bits  culled from VBT’s catalog of walking and biking tours:

– Itinerary: Fly to cusco/transfer to Sacred Valley/Oilantaytambo – Pisac Ruins/Moray Terrarces/Maras/Cuyuni Community/trek Machu Picchu, Cusco, Tambomachay/Puka Pukara/Sacsayhuaman…

– Machu Picchu view from the sun gate. stay at Inkaterra, trek Inca trail or ride Vistadome narrow gauge rail.

– Urubamba Valley

– Sacred Valley/Oilantaytambo (stay at Casa Andina PC Valle sagrado)

– Pisac

– Inca Trail

– Cusco – stay at Casa andina Private Collection Cuso

-Cuyuni market; Colonia Cusco, a UNESCO world Heritage Site, sampling chica (native corn beer) and Andean weaving.

– Lima – Ramada costa Del Sol Lima (day room)

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