Tag Archives: Italy

October 2, 2014 · 5:22 pm

Motor scooter day on Lipari!

After about 10 minutes of sharing a motor scooter on the winding mountainous road of this small island, I released my death grip around Dirck’s waist and just enjoyed the ride and of course the scenery. There is one main road that runs around the island and it’s narrow, with lots of steep switchbacks. fortunately there wasn’t much traffic once we got out the town, except for the occasional whizzing past us scooter or car. Only encountered one tour bus and the public buses look more like vans.

we stopped for a hike on the southwest side of the island to a gorgeous somewhat secluded beach (Valle mare). After a longer rougher hike than expected, we arrived at a tiny bar on the beach with two tables with a thatched roof– one just waiting for us. perfect place for our picnic, especially since it started to drizzle. I had some of the local amber colored wine (yes, I am drinking wine. A little) and Dirck had a beer. We had a spectacular view of the rocky shore and mountains leading down to it and other rock formations and actual rocky islands in the sea. A handful of people were swimming and we met a few hikers on our way back up but overall very quiet. Lovely. We stopped twice in the smaller town, Canneto, known for its popular beach but we liked it because it was much less touristed than where we are. We stopped twice at the same little bar and had gelato (Dirck) and granita (me). Rental was from Bruno, nice guy who seemed amused by our adventure.

At night we had one of our best meals of the trip (and that is high praise indeed since we have had NO bad meals) at the Kasbah, which serves”modern Sicilian” cuisine in a very stylish environment with an international crowd (lots of French and Germans) but not snobby or stuffy at all. I had the best swordfish I’ve ever had, grilled over spinach with a little prosciutto and some delicious guitar pick shaped frites; Dirck had ravioli with ingredients we don’t really know what they were (no English menu here) but delicious. Chocolate panna cotta and limone Tiramisu for dessert. (Kasbah is not to be confused with 25 restaurant, located at the former site of Kasbah. We mistakenly ate there two nights earlier. Good but not as good.)

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October 1, 2014 · 8:04 pm

Lipari/isole eolie: Diana brown’s, dolce vita, Stromboli, Panarea,

I owe a huge thank you to my Aunt Janet for urging me to tear up my itinerary so I could add a visit to the Aeolian Islands (isole eolie), an out worldly smattering of volcanic islands in the Mediterranean north of Sicily.

And here we are! amazing place. We are staying at Diana brown’s, a small guesthouse along a very narrow passage way on the main island of Lipari. charming place. Our room feels a bit like a beach cabana, with sliding wooden doors opening onto a one room efficiency.

Today we went on a 9 hour cruise on a small boat with about 30 people to two other islands, Panarea and Stromboli, dropping anchor twice to jump into the sea near a huge volcanic rock /tiny island for a swim in warm clear blue water. heaven! On each of the islands we had time to walk around and explore for an hour or so. Both were fancier and less commercial than Lipari. Panarea seemed particularly well heeled. We found a very friendly family run trattoria for a terrific lunch of spaghetti (vongole, another one that tasked a bit like my puttanesca, using the excellent local capers). in Stromboli, we had the best gelato I have ever had. The chocolate was so rich and creamy, almost seemed like the consistency of frosting, although not sickly sweet. Stromboli is where I’d stay if I visit here next. Tropical, lush vegetation and flowers and crops. And the entire island is an active volcano. At sunset, our boat hovered in the waters next to the volcano, giving us a perfect view of the red slovs trickling down the mountain. Our handsome Italian boat crew member poured us small cups of sweet wine/liquor. The excursion company, dolce vita (run by Diana browns daughter and son in law) knew what it was doing.

Risotante da l’eolian, Panarea
Subba pastries, Lipari,
Lapillo gelato, Stromboli
Totem trekking Stromboli,
Market
Fruit

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September 24, 2014 · 2:53 pm

arriving in Amalfi by boat from Salerno

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September 22, 2014 · 8:53 pm

bella Roma — via Giulia, Tartuffo, Rosciola, taverna trilussa,

No surprise that I have my first major blister on my foot. we walked that much and no regrets. We crossed the bridge from Trastevere to Centro Storico, feeling like we crossed the the left bank to the right bank in Paris or from the Village to the upper east side in NYC. Definitely more posh although not too. and absolutely gorgeous streets to walk down like Via Giulia, apparently one of the most photographed streets in Rome – straight road lined with beautiful buildings and grand churches.

We walked down several popular shopping streets to campo del fiori, which had a big fruit and food market then onto what turned out to be our favorite shopping street, via del giubbonari, where Dirck bought a leather belt and I resisted the temptation to buy a soft leather purse.

We had an amazing lunch at Rosciola, a famous salumeria where the sliced meats and cheeses come from the old world counter at the front of the shop. I had the creamiest ricotta cheese I will probably ever taste, just spread on bread or even better without anything else.

After walking to various tourist hotspots I haven’t been to in 30 years (pantheon, trevi fountain…under construction ) we ended up splitting a Tartuffo, the famous ice cream treat served at tre scalini, overlooking Piazza Navronne. Thought about my mother who loved rome and insisted my sister and I have a Tartuffo at tre scalini when we first came here in 1978.

Dinner was unexpectedly at taverna trilussa in Trastevere, a very popular spot packed with big Italian families. When I called in advance I was told we couldn’t get in until 10:15 but when we happened upon the place at 8 pm they ushered us to a table in the warm cozy taverna. I may have to cut back on the pasta…but it sure was good.

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September 20, 2014 · 10:02 pm

There is a Charlotte Rome flight

It seemed unlikely when I first stumbled upon it but as we sit in the bustling Charlotte airport awaiting our flight to Rome, I can confirm that the flight, on us air, does indeed exist. So far so good. We left Des Moines on time, despite threatening skies, and arrived here 1.5 hours later. Now awaiting an overpriced pulled pork sandwich at Carolina beer co., a restaurant/pub that shares space with a bagel store. Italy and Italian food here we come!

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April 11, 2010 · 9:26 pm

Home-cooked meals in Italy – how to find them

I have had the good fortune to visit Italy several times (although not, alas, during  the past 20 years) – and some of the best food I had there (which is saying a lot) was during  a 1982 visit  when I spent the week cooking and eating with a family in Rome.  This was not planned. I was supposed to spend that Easter week with our family friends Hugo and Romano but they were called away – far away –  when Hugo’s mother died in Cuba.

I was taken in by the upstairs neighbors  in Hugo’s modern apartment block – Rudy, Franca and their adorable young daughters Francesca and Veronica. I spoke very little Italian and Rudy was the only one who could speak some English but  the family member I saw the least. Instead, I spent much of my time with Franca in the kitchen and at the family table and I could swear we had conversations – even if we didn’t converse in the same language. I knew a little about Italian cooking – she knew a lot more – and that’s what we did together.  Cooked. And ate. The result, thanks to Franca (not me) was invariably delicious.

Now comes word in today’s NYTimes travel section that visitors to Italy can find a home-cooked meal via an outfit called Home Food (www.homefood.it) which appears to match tourists with locals cooking amazing home-cooked meals. (The writer had the good sense to pursue this adventure with someone who spoke near-fluent Italian.) The story also mentions agriturismo –  ag-themed hotels that are apparently the  the Italian version of agri-tourism, something we know a thing or two about here in Iowa.

When I return to Italy (and I swear I will), I am sad to say that I can no longer dine with Rudy and Franca as I did not only in Rome but during two later trips when they lived in Pantigliate,  a modern suburb outside Milan. (“Roma bella! Pantigliate brutto!” lamented Franca  – and I understood her perfectly.) They are no longer alive. But maybe a Home Food experience will be the next best thing.

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