Two years ago, not long after we moved to Chicago, my brother and I visited Intuit in a blinding rainstorm that made it hard to see where we were. The art museum was charmingly scruffy, in a 19th-century brick building with worn wooden floors and battered walls that seemed well-suited for the museum’s collection of quirky and eclectic artwork by “self-taught” (and intuitive) artists. Soon after our visit the museum closed for renovation and expansion. It just reopened and I’m pleased to report that it’s even better – retaining its essential scruffiness but bigger and brighter, with white panels covering much of the still-worn walls and the original worn wood floor gently restored (or so it seemed.)
All the better to showcase its often eccentric artwork found in the permanent collection pieces and a special exhibit “Catalyst: Im/migration and Self-Taught Art in Chicago” featuring a diverse selection of artwork by 22 immigrant and migrant self-taught artists who came to Chicago from all over the world (Poland, Ukraine, Honduras, Mexico…). It’s fantastic and timely, given the unwarranted and obnoxious demonization of im/migrants by our current unbearable president. Among my favorites — elegant art deco-ish decorative objects made from unlikely prosaic material — a dental equipment company’s discarded metal. The artist, Stanley Szwarc, who immigrated to the US from Poland in 1977, worked at the company.
The museum’s permanent collection also includes the work of self-taught Chicago artist Henry Darger, (1892-1973) who lived near us in Lincoln Park in a one-room third-floor apartment and produced often cartoon-like work. Orphaned as a young boy, he landed in the awful-named Asylum for Feeble-Minded Children in Lincoln, Illinois. In Chicago, he worked by day as a hospital janitor, by night for forty years as an artist and writer, producing a massive illustrated novel set in an imaginary world with lots of clouds, storms, fire and seven heroines – the Vivian Girls – who led armies to defeat child-enslaving foes. He often traced figures from newspapers, magazines and kids coloring books, painting and collaging. Fortunately his landlords discovered and preserved his work, and his living room/studio contents (Pepto Bismol bottles, stacks of magazines, many shoes). The museum offers a reimaging of Darger’s studio with some of his original furniture and art materials.
Henry Darger’s work and reimagined digs
We met the museum’s enthusiastic president/ceo who showed us a bright new classroom space in the rear of the building where outreach programs are provided to teachers and students. The museum’s gift shop has also been spiffed up, but has the same interesting offerings. I’m a longtime fan of this art by ordinary (sometimes psychologically challenged) people, not academy/trained artists, variously (and awkwardly) known as outsider, naive, primitive, folk, or self-taught. Also don’t miss a visit to the bathrooms, yes, bathrooms – donated by Kohler (the bathroom fixture company) with fantastic arty light fixtures.
Looking out the windows of Intuit in Chicago, we could not miss a massive metal building across Milwaukee Avenue called Gangnam Market, which turned out to also be well worth a visit – part Korean food hall/arcade — Korean drinks here, Korean tacos there – and part upscale market. I also enjoyed browsing through the Asian candy, snacks and trinkets – exotic flavored Hi-Chews, KitKats (matcha tea, like we saw in Japan), chips (flavors: oyster, crawfish, cumin lamb skewer) Hello Kitty merch – and takeout Asian fare (seaweed, sushi, oniguri etc.) We’ll be back to try the Korean tacos, at a minimum.
Dinner was at Opart Thai House on Chicago Avenue — which lived up to its reputation. It’s a nothing-fancy interior with well-executed classics (pad thai, green curry with very fresh shrimp) and originals (to us) like a “peanut lovers” dish with chicken and vegetables coated in a thick peanutbutter-ish sauce. (It’s also BYOB, we learned.)
One of my earliest introductions to “outsider” was during the late 1980s in the amazing outsider art enclave of Lucas, Kansas – home to “The Garden of Eden” — a bizarre concrete log cabin with a yard full of giant sculptures with biblical and populist themes (Adam and Eve and the serpent; the farmer being crucified by the banker, lawyer, etc.). From this came a museum of outsider art that became affiliated with the Smithsonian and a public restroom/public art project resembling a giant toilet with intricate mosaics. All in a tiny windswept town in the middle of nowhere. In another Kansas small town, near Kansas City, I met another remarkable self-taught artists known as Grandma Layton, who started drawing in her older age when wishes had mental health issues and produced searing portraits of herself and husband. She gave me a signed poster of one of her paintings that I treasure, especially since her work was not sold, at least back in the 1980s. Baltimore also has a terrific outsider art museum that I visited, sneaking away from a work meeting to make sure I didn’t miss it!
I admit to having a somewhat irrational fear of government bureaucracy, especially now, during Trump 2.0, when people have been detained during seemingly routine bureaucratic visits and whisked away without due process. Granted I am a white, older, American-born, middle class woman so much less of a target in Trump’s America than an immigrant and/or person of color. I’ve also been wary of bureaucratic ineptitude, a perception stoked sadly by the Trump administration’s distain for government AND its decimation of government, with mass firings of federal workers.
So I was surprised that getting Global Entry – which will allow me to bypass long lines when re-entering the country after an international flight – was a piece of cake. Not that this is necessarily typical. I got lucky. My husband applied at the same time that I did and is still awaiting word that he’s jumped through the first hoop (“conditional approval.”) In my case, conditional approval arrived via email a day after I applied. I’m told this is the luck of the draw. Sometimes three members of a family will get conditional approval swiftly while a fourth member has to wait awhile.
Even the next step went well for me: a face-to-face appointment with immigration folks, either in downtown Chicago or at O’Hare. I picked O’Hare and today I made it to the airport and back in two hours, with a bonus: a surprise email received on the Blue Line train notifying me that my Global Entry was approved! It helped that everything went unexpectedly well with transportation – no horrific traffic jams on the drive to the Western stop of the Blue Line at 8:30 a.m.; the O’Hare El train came just as I arrived and took about 35 minutes; the 25 minute trek to the Global Entry office, a drab office tucked behind a baggage carousel (#12) in faraway Terminal 5 (international flights) was easy. I arrived 35 minutes before my 10:20 appointment and hunkered down in the sterile waiting room, but was called within five minutes.
Although I’d been warned that the immigration interviewer would be taciturn, mine couldn’t have been more pleasant. (Apparently my early arrival worked well for him.) He verified some application information and corrected one error that listed Chicago as my birthplace. (It’s Detroit). I piped up that I forgot to list one country (among others) that I visited during the past 5 years on my application. No problemo. He asked if I had a criminal record or immigration violations and then took my fingerprints (using a scanner to get images of my thumb and four fingers of each hand…my first experience fingerprinting). Then he patiently answered my questions (several about why my husband’s application process wasn’t as swift). And away I went after about 10 minutes. He told me I should hear back later today or on Sunday – after my fingerprints were screened by the FBI (or some such).
The Global Entry is good for five years and also includes TSA Precheck, so I can avoid the longer lines at security when arriving for a flight. I’ve rarely found the lines that awful but friends urged me to get global entry since we travel internationally a lot. But I probably won’t use mine until my husband’s goes through so hoping that happens soon! And now, if only, there was a way to avoid the sometimes long lines at customs/immigration when arriving at Heathrow and other international airports.
Here’s the official spiel: Global Entry is a U.S. Customs and Border Protection (CBP) Trusted Traveler Program that allows expedited clearance for pre-approved, low-risk travelers upon arrival in the United States. The application fee is $120, and membership lasts for five years. All applicants must undergo a background check.
If you’re going to spend $23 on a cheeseburger, it better be an exceptional cheeseburger – and indeed it was at John’s Food and Wine, a small upscale lunch and dinner spot with a cocktail bar on Halstead in Lincoln Park. We split the burger for lunch (served Friday-Sunday) – plus an order of beef fat fries with aioli and a delicious “Little Gem” salad with little gem lettuce (somewhere between butterhead and romaine), charred ramps, ample white shavings of ricotta salata (the dry version of ricotta) and a creamy greenish buttermilk dressing (think refined Green Goddess).
What made that burger so good? It was perfectly charred on the outside – which explained why John’s open kitchen was sending out smoke, although it never got too smokey (the burger is popular); the meat was house-ground fresh and a perfect medium rare; topped with melted clothbound cheddar cheese and aioli; the bun was a homemade yellowy, slightly sweet milk bun, perfectly toasted. My iced expresso was just right, not too heavy or too sweet. We’ll be back!
Springtime
Slightly closer to home is our neighborhood Middle Eastern/Mediterranean restaurant, Cedar Palace, on Armitage, that we forget to go to. I longed for a good Middle Eastern restaurant in Des Moines – and now there’s one two blocks away. First, the hummus is not too tangy or gritty, just the right creamy consistency and amount of garlic and lemon. Everything else I’ve tried is good including the chicken kafta dinner (which we shared; $22.99 including good yellow lentil soup). The back patio is lovely when the weather permits (and oddly, located next to one of Chicago’s most expensive mansions on Orchard Street) and in the winter the small dining room is cozy and welcoming.
I’m still trying to figure out the geography of Chicago’s West Town, which according to Choosechicago.com/neighborhoods, appears to be a catch-all for several neighborhoods, including Ukrainian Village, Wicker Park, Noble Square, East Village and River West but on another map I have (above) West Town is its own area, south of Ukrainian Village.
That said, we went to an excellent cheese and wine shop for lunch in the Ukrainian Village part of West Town, on Chicago Avenue, recommended to us by a suburban Detroit cheesemonger. All Together Now (think Beatles lyric to try to remember) is a cheerful place with a cool counter and a few tables. Their chicken liver mouse, served in a small jar topped with a layer of congealed oil/fat, was delicious, served with crispy baguette slices, a sweet jam, a country-style Poupon mustard, and tiny pickles (cornichons). The mouse sells for $8 in the shop. The smashed potatoes came with two sauces – one creamy white, another tangy red. And a simple sandwich with excellent ingredients – fresh baguette, Pleasant Ridge cheese (from Wisconsin), salami, and that Poupon-y mustard, was delicious. (We also visited the nearby shop Komodo, which has a cool selection of gifts – jewelry, cards, incense, plants etc.) Other recommended cheese and specialty food shops to visit in Logan Square – The Rind and Lardon.
Since moving to Chicago, we’ve been searching for a conveniently located Italian import store that matches one we love in Des Moines (Graziano’s). Bari Foods on West Grand Street,fits the bill, with a deli counter offering fresh ricotta and mozzarella, homemade sausage, and cold cuts including prosciutto and genoa salami. Next door, we stood in line to buy bread at the Italian bakery and sub shop D’Amato (most people were buying sandwiches and thick slabs of pizza-like focaccia – or focaccia-like pizza.) These shops are not in Chicago’s Little Italy, which is a little further south. (Last month, we tried the huge Italian supermarket Angelo Caputo’s in the western suburb of Elmwood Park, which also has a great deli counter but is less convenient for us city dwellers. Next time I’m in that neck of the woods, I’d like to try Capri Italian Food, 7325 W. North Ave. in River Forest, which is less supermarket.)
The famous Publican Breads is just west of the Italian shops on Grand but, sadly, was closed by 3 p.m. (we arrived at 3:05 p.m.) Also closed by 3 p.m. but worth a future visit – a curiously named coffee and home goods store, The Center of Order and Experimentation at 1727 W. Grand Ave that is also home to Martha Mae (the uber-curated art supplies and “beautiful things” shop formerly of Andersonville).
When we moved to Chicago three years ago, I decided not to post about every wonderful (or not wonderful) discovery here because 1) I was writing a book and had little time for any other writing and 2) I didn’t want to write as a visitor to Chicago. I wanted to be a Chicagoan.
Lula Cafe – It has a hippie-hipster Logan Square vibe with an eclectic new American farm-to-table, fresh vegetable-forward, fare influenced by far-flung spots. We go most often for special dinner occasions (birthdays, out-of-town visitors) but lunch/brunch is good too. Highlights: Baked Feta, Pasta Yia Yia, Caesar Salad, Carrot Cake.
But now that I have more time – and I’m a sort-of Chicagoan – I hope to write more about the city, so readers can benefit from my discoveries and so I can remember my discoveries. With so many dining options in Chicago, it’s hard to keep visiting the same one. There’s always another beckoning. But here are 10 restaurants that we have returned to one or more times – so they qualify as favorites:
Riccardo Trattoria – This is our favorite local traditional Italian restaurant, near us in Lincoln Park. (There’s another one in Fulton market). It’s a small, warm, and cozy space with solid not too basic or complicated Italian classics like Fettucine Bolognese and feels like a real neighborhood spot.
Le Bouchon – Another warm and cozy spot, this time in Bucktown, serving French bistro classics: steak frites, mussels w/frites, French onion soup; Caesar Salad, delicious baguettes.
Small Cheval – This is a favorite fast-foody casual burger place, a spin-off of Au Cheval on Randolph. We used to go to the one on Wells in Old Town but now there’s one even closer, on Halstead in Lincoln Park.
Cumin – Our go-to for take-out Indian food, located in Wicker Park. We’re also fans of Kama, nearby in Wicker Park, but even better in the southwest burb of La Grange, which offers superb tandoori chicken cooked in an oven that apparently doesn’t meet Chicago health code so isn’t available at the city location…or wasn’t when we last visited.)
Kala – Our favorite fast-foody casual Modern Greek spot in Lincoln Park/lakeview, with souvlaki bowls – grilled and charred meat or vegetables from skewers served as a sandwich or atop salad or rice.
Smoque BBQ – Excellent smoked ribs, brisket, pulled pork, conveniently located in Old Irving Park near our kids’ place i so we can order when visiting and/or babysitting.
Aba – Buzzing Fulton Market California-influenced Mediterranean restaurant with shared plates – including whipped feta and charred eggplant spreads, kebabs, shawarma-spiced skirt steak.
The Gage – Favorite spot pre-or-post theater or museum on Michigan Avenue at Millennium Park, serving European-influenced American fare (or some such)…i.e. wide variety of food for light or heavier dining.
Hopleaf – A Belgium gastro pub in Andersonville with excellent mussels w/frites, beer, crispy pork belly, and quiet shady back outdoor patio.
Early in our new life in Chicago, I decided not to write constantly about all our new finds here because 1)who has the time? 2) I wanted Chicago to feel more like home than a trip. But it’s time for the occasional exception, maybe because Calumet Fisheries is so far from our usual stomping ground here and it’s an interesting place.
As promised, it’s in a dreary looking industrial area of south Chicago AND it has delicious fresh fish and seafood, smoked and fried. There’s a reason it won a James Beard award for being one of those classic places to eat. It’s a humble little shack just past the underpass of I-94 and an unlovely bridge over a not-scenic stretch of the Calumet River. Across the street is what looks like a giant rusted funnel in a barren lot.
Midday on a Saturday there was a small group of customers inside. Cash only. A poster of the late great Anthony Bourdain, whose show on Chicago food got us here. The young guy behind the counter was patient and helpful, offering advice on what to try as first-timers. We got fried and smoked fare: just-fried oysters, catfish and smelt; a chunk of moist not-too-salty smoked salmon and smoked shrimp (a first for us). The forlorn picnic table outside might work in warmer weather but we opted to drive home 35 minutes before eating in earnest. We did sample a few still-hot oysters and smelt in the car. All delicious. We’ll be back!
It’s been just over a month since we moved from Des Moines to Chicago, although it seems longer, and we’ve had time to try just a fraction of the restaurants tempting us in our new neighborhood, Lincoln Park. Here’s my favorites to date:
Cedar Palace, on Armitage – offering the middle eastern food I couldn’t seem to find in Des Moines (although I did find it in Iowa City, thank you Oasis Cafe). Great hummus, falafel, shawarma, a middle eastern salad. Now all I need is take out hummus that is as good as Oasis’s. I’ve tried three duds from supermarkets here. (Kaufman’s deli in Skokie has good hummus, but not nearby…also excellent corned beef.)
Gemini – our neighborhood fancy pants place but no fancy attire required (just fancy prices and dishes). Great swordfish (my aunt’s find!), Caesar salad, ahi tuna tartare, flatbread.
All too well – strangely named but terrific sandwich shop on Armitage next door to Evette’s (and owned by the same folks) with excellent sandwiches. Evette’s offers an intriguing mashup of Mexican and Middle Eastern – pretty good too.
Green Tea – how we’ve missed Japanese food and here it is, right around the corner on Clark. We went for lunch and had a bento box special with chicken katsu, panko-dipped shrimp and maki and a cooked salmon and salmon skin (yum) rice bowl.
Chengdu Impressions – we’ve been here before. It’s a favorite of our kids’ who live in Chicago’s Edgewater neighborhood but we tried a new standout dish – braised pork belly with scallion pancake. To our surprise, the pancake didn’t arrive intact, as a wrapper for the pork. It came in crispy cooked slices added to the pork belly mixture. Yum.
Athenian on Webster, off of Halstead – This place is a throwback, open since 1972, cash only (they take gold coins!), no liquor license (but you can buy drinks next door.) The food and service aren’t that amazing BUT the chicken Kalamata is to die for, reminding us of the baked lemon chicken that was a specialty at Santorini, our favorite Greektown restaurant in Chicago which sadly closed.
Marge’s Still on Sedgwick – atmospheric Old Town bar with good pub grub, (“hand held food”) including a big juicy cheeseburger and a grilled turkey burger with feta, tzatziki, red onions on pita. The music was way too loud for me but after one beer it didn’t bother me as much.
Andy’s Thai Kitchen on Diversey – An old haunt and still the only place I’ve ordered and loved “pork neck” as well as basil pork belly.
Dom’s Market – true confession: we haven’t eaten there yet but wandering around was enough to sell me on going there as soon as possible. A new one is opening up nearer to us on Wells soon!
Brown Bag – easy nothing-fancy fast foodish but healthyish seafood chain, good in a pinch.
In the not-so-good category: Blue Door Cafe on Halstead. Lovely decor with an open air southern veranda feel but mediocre food.
The first thing I saw when I entered Union Station around 12:30 pm on a Sunday was a bride, alone at the top of a white marble staircase, dressed in a sleeveless white dress, holding a bouquet and waiting expectantly. We exchanged smiles through our eyes since I was wearing a mask. This was not what I expected on the Wolverine Amtrak train from Chicago to Detroit (or in my case, Dearborn in suburban Detroit.) I’ve always wanted to ride this train. I love trains, so here I am. For five hours on a cold, grey, damp day with the occasional snow flake.
Very comfortable seats and all seats taken. My only complaint is very dirty window so it’s hard to see beyond it. Also makes a grey gloomy day even greyer and gloomier.
Indiana scene via Amtrak
Apparently for a fee, you can have your wedding photos taken in the grand lobby of Union station, which is what was happening when I arrived, and for a presumably higher fee, you can have your wedding there.
We didn’t do much of tourism note, beyond hang out with our grandsons and their parents. But we did have a good diner-type lunch/brunch (tuna melt, but, Greek omelette) at 3rd Coast, a somewhat hidden neighborhood hangout near my aunt’s on the Gold Coast that somehow I’ve never heard of in the 35 years or so that I have been visiting her.
We also had excellent takeout Szechwan Chinese food from ChengduImpression, in Lincoln park (I think) which made me think of a friend who grew up in that city and still lives there so I sent her greetings and a photo of the restaurant via WhatsApp, which she got a kick out of. And we picked up a sandwich (dolce di Parma) to go Andersonville at Pianto Pronto
Bit stunned to see the neighborhood we may move to in this article…but I did write atravel story about it in 2019 for the Minneapolis Star.
The 49 coolest neighbourhoods in the world We polled 27,000 city-dwellers and asked local experts to rank the greatest places for food, fun, culture and community
The city’s historic Swedish enclave (take note of the flag on the neighbourhood’s iconic water tower), Andersonville is now better known for its LGBTQ+ nightlife and the bars and restaurants that line the Clark Street corridor. Over the past year, the area has bounced back in a big way, welcoming new bars (Nobody’s Darling, the Bird Cage) and restaurants (Parson’s Chicken & Fish), while events like the Taste of Andersonville have done a top job of showcasing beloved local institutions. The district has always been a desirable place to live, but its proximity to beaches and coastal parks has only made it more appealing during the pandemic. Andersonville is also a community that’s looking forward, launching initiatives like Clark Street Composts – a pilot programme that could serve as a model for eco-friendly composting throughout Chicago.
The perfect day: Start off with coffee and pastries from Scandi-inspired bakery Lost Larson, before checking out the vintage knick-knacks at Woolly Mammoth or feminist literature at Women & Children First. Next, stroll along the picturesque Foster Beach, then snag a table at Hopleaf and enjoy mussels and Belgian beer. Round off your day with a drag show at the Bird Cage or a surreal performance of the Neo-Futurists’ Infinite Wrench.
Plan your trip: For Andersonville Midsommarfest, an annual street festival (June 10-12 2022) that serves as a celebration of the area’s Swedish heritage, local businesses and LGBTQ+ culture.
Within walking distance of the trendy Los Angeles neighborhood of Los Feliz, this tiny park normally draws crowds for art classes and Friday wine tastings. But now visitors come for ambles around the landscape and architect Frank Lloyd Wright’s first and only L.A. opus, Hollyhock House, commissioned in the 1920s by oil heiress Aline Barnsdall. In 2019 the home and seven other Wright-designed buildings in the United States were added to the UNESCO World Heritage List.
Step into history and nature on these surprising summertime strolls in Los Angeles, Chicago, and Washington, D.C.
IN A SPRING and summer of coronavirus lockdowns and travel slowdowns, our usual modes of escape—planes, trains, cruise ships—have become fraught with health, ethical, and even legal perils. Suddenly, flying to see relatives in Arizona or Amsterdam or hopping a train to New York City for the weekend have become major life choices instead of simple vacation whims. And many types of trips (cruises, vacations to Europe for Americans) aren’t even possible during this Summer of Corona.
It’s no wonder that people from Paris to Pittsburgh have turned to their own two feet—and places in their own backyards—to get out and see the world. In the U.S., depending on where you live, that might mean hiking in a nearby state park, running on a local beach, or just strolling through deserted downtowns.
Still, with so many people getting outdoors, many popular paths and parks are overrun. These writers, in three cities across America, found unusual, less-traveled places to walk. Here’s how they got out of the house—and out of their heads.
Steep, secret staircases in Los Angeles
An introvert, I welcomed the stillness of quarantine. Yet, after months of being homebound with my sweet-tempered cat in Long Beach, California, I missed the outdoors. Apparently, so did thousands of equally stir-crazy Angelenos who, once spring stay-at-home orders lifted, poured out onto beach paths and hiking trails.
It was hard to avoid crowds, but I had an ace up my sweatshirt sleeves. All over Los Angeles, cement or wood outdoor stairways are sandwiched between apartment complexes and tucked away in unassuming neighborhoods. Dating back to the 1920s and 1930s, these pedestrian byways were incorporated into new residential developments built around light-rail lines and trolley systems.
“The stairs were erected when the city started expanding into the hilly neighborhoods of Echo Park, Silver Lake, Mount Washington, and Highland Park,” says Charles Fleming, who wrote the book Secret Stairs: A Walking Guide to the Historic Staircases of Los Angeles. “People moving into the hills often didn’t have cars, so, they needed an efficient way to get down to the Pacific Electric Railway trolley system, the markets, and the schools.”
A man runs up a set of stairs in the Silver Lake neighborhood of Los Angeles.
PHOTOGRAPH BY JONATHAN ALCORN, ZUMA PRESS/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO
While the trolleys were dismantled in the ’40s and ’50s, the stairs remained. Fleming’s book documents more than 275 of them, each with distinct views and quirks. In hip Silver Lake, where street art flourishes, the Murray Stairway is painted to resemble piano keys and the Micheltorena Stairs bear rainbow stripes. Nearby, The Music Box Stairs and Three Stooges Stairs have silver-screen pasts: starring roles in Laurel and Hardy’s 1932 Music Box and the Stooges’ 1941 An Ache in Every Stake, respectively. Both movies feature the hijinks of delivering heavy objects—a piano and blocks of ice—up the outlandishly steep steps.
One morning during quarantine, I headed to one of the oldest—and most challenging—set of stairs in the city. The view from the bottom of the Eldred Street Stairs alarmed me with its 33.3 grade, which rises and dips like a roller-coaster track. Located in Los Angeles’s Mount Washington neighborhood, it’s the steepest street in California, beating San Francisco’s famed Filbert Street by 1.8 percent.
I took a deep breath and started climbing, my movements comically slow as I steadily gained 219 feet in elevation during the short 0.1-mile hike to the top. Sweat trickled down my forehead, and I had to take frequent breaks to catch my breath. I spied 1920s Craftsman bungalows, preposterously built along the hill. How did early inhabitants drive up to their garages, presumably in Model Ts? The street felt nearly vertical.
The Baxter Stairs cross through the Echo Park neighborhood in Los Angeles.
PHOTOGRAPH BY RACHEL NG
The journey was likely even more arduous for residents on Cross Avenue, who had to scale an additional 196 steps up a wooden staircase past the peak of Eldred Street to get home. At the bottom of the Eldred Stairs, legs quivering, I considered turning back. But the mystery of the foliage-shrouded climb ahead beckoned.
Ascending the deserted stairs felt like stepping into the past. I imagined some silent film hero tipping his straw boater hat as I passed. But I was alone, joined only by Monarch butterflies and playful sparrows who darted among the blue morning glories and overgrown weeds peeking through the stair railings.
I finally reached the top, popping out onto a narrow residential street with a scenic overlook. I soaked in the cool breeze, plus spectacular views of craggy Mount Baldy and the San Gabriel Mountains. I was done for the day, but that first outing inspired me to conquer other climbs: the Mattachine Steps in Silver Lake, dedicated to Harry Hay, founder of the Mattachine Society, one of the earliest LGBTQ rights group in the U.S. Next on my list: an Echo Park trek that leads to Angelino Heights, a late 19th-century neighborhood dotted with Victorian and Queen Anne mansions that seem popped out of a storybook.
During the pandemic, I’ve dreamt of time traveling to life after the crisis or to the glorious before times. Venturing up these old stairways is, in a way, like journeying into a bygone Los Angeles. It’s been just the escape I needed. —Rachel Ng
Down by the river in Chicago
Ordinarily, the glassy expanse of Chicago’s Lake Michigan attracts both photo ops and crowds of people who walk, bike, run, or sun themselves along the shore. But when this spring’s COVID-19 shutdowns closed the lakefront, I found a different watery escape: strolling the connected parks and paths along the North Branch of the Chicago River.
The multi-forked, 156-mile river winds from Lake Michigan through a series of other waterways that finally connect with the Mississippi River. Historically, the Chicago River has been a route for both indigenous people and European settlers, allowing Chicago to flourish as a major industrial city. But for me, during this pandemic, trails along the river have transformed into a secret world where I can get my nose out of my phone and into nature. Well, at least for a couple of miles a couple of times a week.
Measuring 1,000 feet long, the new Riverview Bridge on the North Branch of the Chicago River is the longest pedestrian bridge over water in the city.
PHOTOGRAPH BY TODD BANNOR, ALAMY STOCK PHOTO
All it takes to get to my hideaway? A quick turn into what I think of as my personal portal: a cut in the railing of the Belmont Avenue Bridge near my home in the Avondale neighborhood. Just west of Western Avenue, I leave the busy road and zigzag down a concrete ramp to the meandering asphalt trail along the river.
The murky green water to my left, I walk through a thicket of trees and step inside a corner of Richard Clark Park called The Garden. Even during the pandemic, this hidden dirt-bike park was semi full of excited kids whooping and whipping their wheels over multiple mounds of soil, twisting and turning in an exhilarating escape from confinement. My 12-year-old nephew was often among them.
In the Garden, happy screams echo through the trees, a diversion from my doomscrolling on Twitter before I continue on my walks. And the land the bikes roll on has a long history of fun: it’s the site of the former Riverview Park. The legendary amusement park operated wooden roller coasters and toboggan rides from 1904 to 1967 under the slogan “laugh your troubles away.”
As I walk north on the trail, a contemporary grey stone building rises like a series of undulating waves. It’s the WMS Boathouse, designed by local architectural star Jeanne Gang, opened in 2013 as part of the city’s ongoing efforts to revitalize the riverfront. Gang used her trademark crisp engineering and green infrastructure elements (rain gardens, porous concrete that helps store and filter river water) to make a structure that’s both a design and environmental win.
RELATED: GARDEN CEMETERIES WERE AMONG AMERICA’S FIRST URBAN PARKS
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GREEN-WOOD, NEW YORK CITY
Founded in 1838 as one of America’s first garden cemeteries, Green-Wood later inspired the creation of Central and Prospect Parks. In its early days, it was a major national tourist attraction
… Read MorePHOTOGRAPH BY TODD HEISLER, THE NEW YORK TIMES/REDUX
SPRING GROVE CEMETERY, CINCINNATI
A recurrent cholera epidemic motivated the Cincinnati Horticultural Society to create Spring Grove Cemetery in 1844. Inspired by garden cemeteries both in Paris and along the East
… Read MorePHOTOGRAPH BY MEDLEY OF PHOTOGRAPHY, ALAMY STOCK PHOTO
EVERGREEN CEMETERY, PORTLAND (ME)
One of Portland’s largest publicly owned open spaces, the 239-acre Evergreen Cemetery is renowned for its wooded hiking trails and peaceful ponds. Points of interest include an Egyptian revival–style tomb, a mausoleum styled after a Greek temple, and an English Gothic revival chapel.
PHOTOGRAPH BY DANITA DELIMONT, ALAMY STOCK PHOTO
LAUREL HILL CEMETERY, PHILADELPHIA
Fed up with the crowded state of Philadelphia’s church graveyards, a Quaker helped establish Laurel Hill on a former estate north of the city. With scenic views of the Schuylkill River and
… Read MorePHOTOGRAPH BY LITTLE NY, GETTY IMAGES
MOUNTAIN VIEW CEMETERY, OAKLAND
Renowned landscape architect Frederick Law Olmsted drew inspiration from Parisian monuments, English gardens, and American Transcendentalism when designing this 223-acre
… Read MorePHOTOGRAPH BY DBIMAGES, ALAMY STOCK PHOTO
BONAVENTURE CEMETERY, SAVANNAH
With its centuries-old gravestones tucked beneath live oaks dripping with Spanish moss, it’s no wonder Bonaventure is hailed as one of Savannah’s highlights. Made more famous by
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CONGRESSIONAL CEMETERY, WASHINGTON, D.C.
Fifty years before Arlington National Cemetery was created, Congressional Cemetery became America’s first national burial ground. Situated in Capitol Hill, it was the chosen resting
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HOLLYWOOD FOREVER CEMETERY, LOS ANGELES
Home to Hollywood luminaries including Judy Garland, Mickey Rooney, and Douglas Fairbanks, Hollywood Forever has been a cultural center in Los Angeles since its gates opened in
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GLENWOOD CEMETERY, HOUSTON
Designed around several ravines leading to Buffalo Bayou, Glenwood Cemetery offers a unique, rolling landscape in the midst of sprawling Houston. Though built in a rural section of the city in 1872, it now sits in the heart of Houston with impressive vistas of the skyline.
PHOTOGRAPH BY JON SHAPLEY, HOUSTON CHRONICLE/AP IMAGES
OAKLAND CEMETERY, ATLANTA
What began in 1850 as a modest, six-acre burial ground for the young town of Atlanta has grown into a 48-acre historical highlight in the city. Oakland fell into a period of disrepair in
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In other summers, I’d rent a canoe outside the boathouse, or peek inside at the rowers who train here. Though the building is quiet this year (rentals and programs are on hold for now), the structure’s serene, zigzaggy roof still soothes me, a reminder that tough times, like flowing water, eventually move on.
Just beyond, my running shoes hit Riverview Bridge, a new concrete path that gently climbs 18 feet above the river. The slither of concrete with rusty steel tooth-like railings is popular with runners and bikers. Me, I slow down to a saunter high above the water, surveying the tops of surrounding trees, imagining I’m far from home before I turn around.
The bridge connects to an old path in California Park, where it ends. For now, at least. Work is underway for more legs of what urban planners aim to make one contiguous river trail. In these long, repetitive days, even small developments—like an extension of my secret world—feel like hope. —Kate Silver
Graveyard rambles in Washington, D.C.
During the pandemic, I‘ve been strolling amid hundreds of people, none of them wearing masks. But don’t COVID shame me: they’re all buried six feet under in historic Washington, D.C. cemeteries, so I’m not worried about social distancing.
My adopted hometown is famously rich in green spaces—Rock Creek Park, a ribbon of grass, trees, and water; the monument- and museum-studded National Mall. But during months of lockdown, my usual paths were jammed with runners and walkers, many unmasked and going about their sweaty, potentially germ-spreading business like it was 2019.
So my husband Callan and I retreated to cemeteries for walks that were often, well, deathly quiet. Our ambles started in March in Glenwood Cemetery, a still-active burial ground in the northeast quadrant of the city near Catholic University.
Built in 1859, the chapel at Oak Hill Cemetery in Washington, D.C.’s Georgetown neighborhood was designed by James Renwick Jr., also the architect of the Smithsonian Institute’s “Castle” on the National Mall.
PHOTOGRAPH BY B. CHRISTOPHER, ALAMY STOCK PHOTO
We came seeking exercise and a look at the grave of Reginald Wycliffe Geare, an early 20th-century architect infamous locally for designing D.C.’s Knickerbocker Theatre. It collapsed in a blizzard in 1922, killing 98 people. Geare also drew up the plans for our 1920 townhouse, which seems to weather storms OK, so we wanted to pay tribute.
On laps around Glenwood’s rolling acerage, Callan and I discovered more than Geare’s simple, flat stone. In spring, cotton candy-pink cherry blossoms backdropped weathered, grouchy stone cherubs. On Memorial Day, we witnessed a funeral procession where brightly dressed mourners on motorcycles provided a bittersweet foil to the dark hearse they followed.
Each time we dropped by, greeted by a swarm of life-sized, trumpet-playing stone angels, we’d discover more evidence of life and death’s rich pageant: a clutch of early 20th-century Greek immigrants in a family plot; recent, silk flower-decked tombstones engraved with Ethiopian surnames, a sign of D.C.’s large immigrant population. And just last week, my genealogist husband discovered two distant relatives were interred there under an expansive elm, an Ancestry.com data point made real.
A weathered stone cherub tops a gravestone at Glenwood Cemetery in Washington, D.C.
PHOTOGRAPH BY JENNIFER BARGER, NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC
I cop to morbidly scanning headstones for 1918 or 1919 passings (Spanish flu?). But I mostly consider these strolls a pleasant revival of the 19th-century cemetery movement holding that graveyards should be like public parks, gathering places where well-dressed Victorian crowds held picnics, concerts, or even horse races.
“Back then, if you had distinguished out-of-town guests, you’d take them to see the gravesites of local worthies and show off the sculptures,” says Keith Eggener, a graveyard historian, architecture professor at the University of Oregon, and author of the book Cemeteries. “They became so popular, people started to lead tours of them and write guidebooks.”
Those boneyard guides would’ve had a lot to talk about at the Georgetown nabe’s shaded, creek-side Oak Hill Cemetery, which I turned to for one-on-one, six-feet-apart strolls with girlfriends as D.C. rolled from crisp spring to boggy, hot summer. Amid tombs dating back to the 1850s, the steep stone steps and winding paths worked out both my calves and sense of mortality.
Civil war officers, sea captains, and other notables are buried amid the towering oaks. Abraham Lincoln’s son Willie’s body was temporarily interred here in a cliffside masoleum in 1862, inspiring George Saunders’ recent graveyard novel, Lincoln in the Bardo. And legendary Washington Post editor Ben Bradlee’s remains are entombed here behind a metal sculpture of a tree.
One June day, as I turned to leave the graveyard, I saw a spotted baby deer peeking out from behind a grizzled Victorian gravestone, all bright eyes and shaky legs. The lush, secluded surroundings seemed to make Bambi—like me—feel very alive indeed. —Jennifer Barger
Los Angeles-based writer Rachel Ng hopes to be fit enough to walk the Great Wall of China someday. Follow her on Instagram.
Kate Silver is a Chicago-based travel, business, and health writer—and walking enthusiast. Follow her on Instagram.