Best resources for planning our Portugal trip

Hard to believe that in my youth, I rarely planned trips and never used guidebooks. In middle-age, with limited time to travel, a slightly bigger budget and advanced pickiness, I’ve taken to booking lodging and sometimes meals in advance using an array of guidebooks and travel articles. Here’s what’s come in handy for Portugal:

Lonely Planet guide – Got this from the public library and have used primarily to find lodging and bone up on cultural activities.

Rick Steves’ guide – It’s not as detailed as the Lonely Planet guide but Rick was helpful in narrowing down where to go during a two-week period. His guide is not as encyclopedic as Lonely Planet – with info on far fewer locations and for the locations it does list, offering fewer options. I didn’t use his lodging suggestions much – Lonely Planet had a wider range, more interesting off-the-beaten-track places and good subtitles like “rural inn” to help narrow things down. I don’t like big hotels or resorts. I prefer smaller family-run places where you can sort of get a feel for what real life is like and connect a little with locals/local life. But I think Rick’s guide will be helpful for actual sight seeing, with some good walking tours in places like Lisbon and Porto…

Newspaper travel stories – The NYTimes has a few including a story on The Other Algarve (which I found a bit late, after I’d spent considerably time trying on my own to figure out the least touristy places to visit) and a 36 Hours Lisbon; But I also found some really helpful stories from the Travel Channel (Anthony Bourdain’s show), the British press including some stories from  the Telegraph and the Guardian, plus Afar magazine.

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Canoeing on the raccoon river near linden, Iowa

We have been curious about the Raccoon River after riding alongside it on the bike trail between Redfield and Panora, iowa. Today, we finally rented a canoe and tried out a five mile stretch. Nice. The river is fairly narrow and bends gently this way and that, with long stretches of placid waters broken up by short fairly mild rapids. The banks are lined with woods and corn fields, with the occasional muddy sandbar. Much of the time we had the river to ourselves until we neared the end and ran into a half dozen rowdy kayakers. we rented from Linden rentals, a guy with some canoes and kayaks who lives on the tiny Main Street. Worked out well. We stopped on the way back at the busy Dairy Shoppe in Redfield. next time we will are to put out a little further along, at the Redfield dam.

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Boutique hostels in Chicago and beyond

We’re staying at what I gather is called a boutique hostel  in Lisbon. Come to find out they’re all over, including in Chicago. When I was a youngster roaming around Europe, I became a big fan of youth hostels – because they provided not only a cheap place to stay (often in surprisingly great locations) but lots of new friends to travel with. Never understood why they didn’t take off as much in the U.S. (I did stay at a few in Colorado – and have heard good things about the one in downtown chicago.) Now that I’m a bit older, a “boutique hostel” sounds just about right! More here:

The new world of upscale hostels, bridging the gap between backpacker basic and four-star chic, are in prime spots, offering affordable rooms with amenities.

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for future reference: Wallowa County Oregon

Met someone from Wallowa County almost 1.5 years ago and have been wanting to go there ever since! This article reinforces that! Someday….

Heritage and Healing

BY TIMOTHY EGAN

Ranchers whose great-great-grandparents may have stolen land once vital to the Nez Perce now sit side-by-side with Indians.

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Ragbrai 2015 – greatest hits….

I rode the last three days (210 miles plus) this year – but my husband and son rode the whole week (500 miles plus)  from Sioux City to Davenport (actually Moline, Illinois, where the Team Skunk bus was parked). Here’s the stuff I (and they) liked the best.

Most charming little overnight town: Eldora – beautiful courthouse and square; Storm Lake close runner up.

Best meal: pulled pork sandwiches at the Masonic Lodge in Wilton, Iowa (Day 7); runner up – Mexican restaurant in Storm Lake (Day 1) and Monica’s for pasta Bolognase in Coralville (Day 6); homemade glazed donuts from Bread Garden in Iowa City; the Skillet where we hunkered down during a rain storm in Mount Vernon (although still miss the Lincoln Cafe there).

Best homemade lemonade: Not the chemical stuff – lemons, sugar, water. outside Moscow, Iowa

Best ice cream: the The Outside Scoop (food truck from Indianola and visits Des Moines weekly!) Best flavor: lemonhead custard.

Best overheard comments:

“I’m kind of leaning towards Walker – he’s the governor of Wisconsin”

“Great shirt – I’m tired of looking at all these bike jerseys” (someone praising my son’s Kafka shirt)

“I used to think this guy I work with from Iowa was such a nice guy. Now I realize after being here he’s not that exceptional.”

Toughest ride/but most gorgeous scenery: Day 5 from Cedar Rapids to Coralville (via Mount Vernon, Lisbon, Coralville Dam.)

Most memorable shower: Cattle wash at the Hardin County Fairgrounds in Eldora.

Awesomely generous overnight hosts: Jim and Myrna in Cedar Rapids (great company, conversation, shower, dinner, bed, tour of revitalized NewBo area and beyond downtown)

Best beer garden: Back Pocket Brewery; runner up: Jackson Street Brewery in Sioux City

Eldora Iowa courthouse

Eldora Iowa courthouse

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Filed under bike trails, biking, Iowa, Iowa City

Casa de Oro/Perry (Iowa) and bike trail from Waukee to Perry

The bike trail between Waukee and Perry in Central Iowa is about 18 miles – long and straight, cutting through classic farm country, fields of rising green corn, the occasional abandoned see-through wooden barn, a smelly hog confinement operation and a smelly fertilizer plant, a pretty farmhouse surrounded by a white picket fence dotted with orange tiger lilies.  We rode in the late afternoon and early evening – returning just before 9 p.m., with the trail and the terrain all to ourselves. Or so it seemed. The light was stunning. A light breeze. Dragon flies whizzing around in front of us, hovering over the pavement. The sound of birds, frogs and crickets.

We stopped for a drink in the small town of Minburn at a depot that’s recently been turned into a little restaurant and then in Perry for dinner at Casa de Oro (after finding our usual Mexican place, Taco Villa, closed). Place was busy and the fajitas good. We’ll be back.

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Filed under Agritourism, bike trails, biking, Iowa

Maggie Daley park, Hubbard street dance, Acanto, Neocon, Riverwalk — Chicago

imageMy stay in Chicago has unexpectedly been prolonged, thanks to intense rain that led my 10:15 p.m southwest flight home from midway to be delayed two hours. At which point I was able to reschedule my flight at no cost to tomorrow at noon. Thank you Southwest. (Apparently this is possible after your flight is delayed more than an hour.)

Meanwhile, we had a good day in Chicago yesterday starting with a great performance by Hubbard street dance at the Harris Theatre. After the matinee, my sister and I walked around the new parts of Millenium Park/grant Park including

At Maggie Daley park

At Maggie Daley park

the lovely prairie gardens of Lurie Park and the cool kids playgrounds and  snaking ice rink at Maggie Daley park, although I gather locals were not pleased that old live trees were cut down to  make way for the playgrounds, which oddly feature bizarre dead trees.  We had an excellent dinner outside overlooking Michigan avenue at Acanto, a new restaurant owned by the same person in charge of The Gage, next door, (try the chicken piccata and the Bellini desert- a scoop of peach sorbet in a pool of prosecco.)

Today I went with my sister–in -law, a designer, to NeoCon, the enormous commercial  interior design show at the Merchandise Mart; then I walked along the new Riverwalk east to Michigan avenue. Chicago, looking good. Now if only it would stop raining.image

 

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Juliet’s in Joliet

The downside (or among the downsides) of having a famous prison in your town is that this is what the town becomes synonymous with. When we heard our nephew and his star baseball team would be playing in the Illinois state high school championship in Joliet, the first thing that came to mind was “prison.” (The second thing was “Blues Brothers” — the movie that features The prison.)
turns out Joliet has a few other things including a casino (which we didn’t visit) and the silver cross ballpark, a pleasant minor league size stadium with real seats and cup holders, and Juliet’s, a warm and cozy bar that serves decent food in an old building with red brick walls, burnished wood and high stamped tin ceilings. The town (once you get in the old part, east of the nondescript sprawl near I 55) has some charming old buildings and looks like the typical struggling town that has hidden gems here and there, if you are willing to explore. Which we were.
For the record: the comfort inn in east moline was much better than the comfort inn in moline. Room didn’t smell. Mattress and pillows comfortable. Odd decor (wall art here and there, each time featuring two of the same image, hanging side by side or one atop the other. Huh?)

At Juliet's

At Juliet’s

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Filed under Chicago, DINING, Illinois, LODGING

El Rey Inn, Salsa Under the Stars, el Patio, Frontier, UNM – Albuquerque

imageWe have breezed through Albuquerque in the past but spent more time there this trip because our daughter will soon be attending UNM there, several relatives live there and, last but not least, we’re Breaking Bad fans (which filmed in Albuquerque.)

We enjoyed some local restaurants including El Patio  (excellent New Mexican fare) and Frontier (an old-time almost all-night joint frequented by UNM students, and others.) Our brother-in-law who grew up in the Dominican Republic also took us to Salsa Under the Stars – which happens on Friday nights in the summer at the Museum. Full of a great and very diverse group of salsa dancers and large live band. Perfect on a summer night. We also enjoyed the Saturday morning farmers market downtown, picked up some green chile powder, a tacos, designer bread, an empanada filed with spinach, artichoke and feta, some “marriage equality” dish towels as wedding gifts.

With Amelia in Albuquerque

With Amelia in Albuquerque

I should probably mention that we were a bit disappointed with our longtime lodging in Sante Fe – the El Rey Inn. It’s a great old motor lodge that we’ve stayed at several times over the years. Still charming and very affordable and good service but we found our “traditional” room a bit shabby this time around – I’ve let the proprietors know (since they asked several times for our opinion) and hope things will improve so we can stay there again (not to mention recommend it to others…) Other options: the Madeleine, Nicholas, Inn at Paseo.image

 

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la Boca, 10,000 waves, railroad district, shake foundation, San Marcos Cafe–

At Ten Thousand Waves

At Ten Thousand Waves

Excellent tapas at La Boca, a tiny Spanish place Near the Plaza in Sante Fe, where we were seated next to a woman who played flamenco guitar and sang (very well). We were surprised at how quiet the Plaza was on a Thursday night, except for some kids hanging out by their cars that blared music heavy on the bass.

Overall, we found that the farther you get from the main tourist area by the plaza, the more interesting the shops, the better the art, and the slightly more real the scene. Which we like. We stopped at Ten Thousand Waves, a spa north of town with a very Zen/Japanese vibe (and good Japanese restaurant, we’re told) and made a mental note to visit next time. Also stopped at a funky cafe in Tesuque Village Market for some good local coffee (Ohari). wandering around the Railroad District, it was hard to get our bearings. It has changed a lot since our last trip 13 years ago. But found some good shops and galleries (Rainbow Gate for great ceramics with painted birds and fruit; Bon marche (brightly colored linens).

For lunch we met Leah at Shake Foundation for green chili burgers, shoe string potatoes and a shared piñon nut caramel milkshake. lovely to sit outside at picnic tables in perfect weather,that clear southwest sky and air.2015-New Mexico 040
Just south of sante Fe, we almost drove right past the San Marcos Cafe, an old adobe restaurant set back from the road and obscured by feed store stuff, supposed to have good food. Next trip.
We drove though the dusty town of Cerrillos, which was a reminder of what nearby Madrid could be like if it lost its hardy band of entrepreneurs, including the owner of Seppanen  & Daughters Fine Textiles, who sold us yet another stunning Oaxacan rug (we bought the last one from him 18 years ago.)2015-New Mexico 034

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