Kelly Wyoming: gros ventre road, deli, Jenny Lake, Kelly warm spring

gros ventre road

gros ventre road

Still in paradise and blogging from the rooftop deck of our cottage, with green pastures and sun still shining strong at 6:39 pm above the jagged, snow-capped Tetons. YEsterday we took a scenic drive conveniently located just outside Kelly along gros ventre road, stopping at Kelly Warm Spring which unlike most of the bodies of water here is warm enough to wade into (although there is a little E. coli risk we learned), then drove up and up a rustic road past dude ranches and forests and red rocks the reminded us of Sedona, stopping at lower slide and upper slide lake overlooks. Stunning views. We turned around awhile after the road turned to gravel.  We had excellent sandwiches at the one business in Kelly, a deli and coffees shop called Kelly at the Gros Ventre, one of three cabins (the other two are the post office and the home of the deli owners, who are very cheerful welcoming folks.

gros ventre road

gros ventre road

dirck and I wandered into Jackson to pick up provisions, stopping for brioche at Persephone Bakery and at Pearl street Bagels and Smiths grocery store.  It stays light so late in the day that we had time for a walk along the roaring river behind Kelly, accompanied by Grace, the sweet dog. we grilled out for dinner and the teenagers who live here gave our “kids” a tour of their treehouse. THis place has been an incredible find – owned by Amber and Michael Hoover. ITs also very easy to get to the airport, which is even closer from here than from Jackson (although you’d never know it.)

After returning to paved road near Antelope Flats

After returning to paved road near Antelope Flats

We had a great day exploring Grand Teton Park although it start d on a somewhat nerve wracking note when we found ourselves driving on a very rutted gravel road, paralleling the Teton range. We were very happy to return to paved road, finally. WE took the boat across Jenny Lake and hiked 2.5 hours up past inspiration point and onto Cascade Canyon. One of the best hikes I’ve done, not only because of the alpine scenery but the thoroughly pleasant weather. 79s, sunny, breezy, no humidity. it started a bit uphill but nothing too steep, and the trail went across and along a rushing torrent of aqua ice blue water into a canyon lined with vast craggy mountains, some with waterfalls spilling down from crevices.

Ansel Adams photo site (with people and via cellphone)

Ansel Adams photo site (with people and via cellphone)

After a return boat ride, we took the pretty wooded two lane moose Wilson road to Teton village and had a late lunch at tthe Mangey Moose, overlooking the ski slopes and tram. I am glad I decided not to stay in a condo there. our place is much more charming. We drove back north onto highway 191 and passed two famous overlooks, one where Ansel Adams took his iconic photo of the snake river snaking in front of the Teton range. And we finally saw some wildlife– buffalo, antelopes, but no moose. Next time. And I hope there is a next time.

Cascade Canyon above Jenny Lake

Cascade Canyon above Jenny Lake

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Morning in Kelly, Wyoming – recap of wedding and drive from Salt Lake

Blue sky, green pastures, snow capped jagged mountains pushing up against this tiny town, about 20 minutes north of Jackson Hole. That’s the view from the second floor deck of the rustic “cottage” we are staying in for a few days. it is very different from the Amangani, the fanciest place we have ever stayed. But it’s just as spectacular in its own way. I cannot get enough of the landscape here or the cool, clear air. Or the alpine vegetation, the shimmering Aspen leaves, the meadows with yellow, blue and purple flowers.

A rooster is crowing outside but otherwise it’s quiet. A few chickens are scurrying around and a dog running free. We are on a little compound in this cottage filled with Afghani rungs, animal pellets, wood walls, ceramic tiles…tasteful , warm, the castoffs of a wanderer (in this case, a wildlife photographer who used to be a hot journalist in far away places). Cannot wait to explore the tiny town and the mountains, lakes and hot springs nearby.

For future reference: places we’ve been in the last three days: Salt Lake City (Mormon Temple at night, Mazza for middle eastern food) Natalie’s Airbnb on 1st between N and M Streets; 4.5 hour drive to Jackson from Salt Lake on 89 off I 15 thru Logan (home of Utah state), Garden City, Utah (LaBeau’s of Bear Lake) for raspberry shakes and even better, a reunification n with my niece Lucy and her parents), turquoise blue waters of Bear Lake, a little Caribbean in the Rockies, driving through northeast Utah into southeast Idaho past some tiny real towns as opposed to tourist towns) like Montpelier and then into Wyoming through Afton (thru the antler archway and past the ticky tacky log cabin motel where Lolita, of Nabokov fame, holed up with her creepy old man) and then onto Jackson (the amazingly elegant Amangani Resort, nearby Spring Creek Ranch, dancing to great bands and djs, swimming with Dirck in a long stone pool at night under a full moon with stars, hiking north of Wilson on the ski lake trail) huevos rancheros at Nora’s Fish Creek, a float on the snake river, the Million Dollar Cowboy Bar.)

Today I’d like to see a moose.

 

 

 

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Chicago’s Miami-esque strip

chicagoMay20162.JPGI’ve always thought the area just beyond Lake Shore Drive on Sheridan Road in Chicago looks more like Miami than the Windy City, with its old school highrises blocking the lake views, with names like “Malibu” and “Tiara.” So it was interesting to finally see what the public beach looks like beyond those highrises.  Gorgeous views of the endless water and to  the south, the towers of downtown Chicago looking like a glittering, far-away Oz.

We’re accustomed to a much closer view of downtown – from North Beach near my Aunt’s “Gold Coast” apartment. But the Edgewater neighborhood’s view is lovely in its own way – sort of a reminder of the leafy, relatively quiet neighborhood’s distance (but also proximity) to Chicago’s more hardcore urban downtown. We visited three small patches of beachfront – one by a Jewish temple that I’d never noticed before, whose sanctuary must have one of the best views in the city. There’s a little cafe at one beach, a snack bar at another with handy and fairly clean public bathrooms. Not many people were swimming but  families and couples and other groups picnicked on the grass, played catch in the sand and admired the view on a rare holiday weekend when Chicago weather was at its best.

If you go: along N. Sheridan

Berger Park (with the Waterfront Cafe) north of Granville Ave.

Lane Beach Park (near Thorndale Ave.)

Hollywood Beach and Kathy Osterman Beach House (and snack bar), north of Hollywood Ave.

chicagoMay2016.JPG

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Terzo Piano, Maggie Daley Park– Chicago

  • EimageAnother gorgeous day in Chicago and we had a great vantage point to see the Big City in all its glory– Terzo Piano, the sleek all white and windowed restaurant in architect Renzo Piano’s new  wing of the Chicago Art Institute. A wedding party commadered the terrace but we had a fine view of the skyline and throngs of Sunday saunterers in Millenium park from the restaurant. Good food too – hearty bloody Mary’s served with a chunk of cheese, sausage and olive on a toothpick, the rim of the glass dusted with Aleppo pepper (which apparently is from Aleppo, Syria and getting harder to get as a result of the unending war there….and now, awkward transition, back to our relatively carefree existence…) Brunch was reasonably priced (apparently compared to other meals there) and delicious. I had brioche French toast, others had lox and bagel; biscuits and gravy, eggs with the best kale chips I’ve eaten (and I generally don’t eat them.)image image

We looked at a Gordon parks photo exhibit then took the cool elevated walkway over to the lovely gardens in Millenium park ((lots of purple and green and the occasional dazzling red poppies). Tons of bicyclists around (a reminder that someday we’d like to ride the bike the drive event, which took place today on lake shore drive. one fashion trend we have noticed this trip. Men wapearing heavy leather harnesses around their upper torso. Why?

ere

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Furama Dim Sum, Lickety Split, Big Jones, Foursided: hanging out in Chicago ‘s Andersonville/Edgewater

Edgewater living

Edgewater living

Great day exploring the Edgewater/Andersonville neighborhood surrounding our “kids” great new digs in Chicago.image THey bought a lovely condo in  100 year old brick building on a leafy street with a great deck in the back overlooking neighbors gardens and old housetops.

Lickety

Lickety split

Feels like an oasis from urban life but smack dab of n the big city too. We had good dim sum at old time place, Furama (get the crispy, fried stuff more than the gooey boiled stuff), frozen custard at Lickety Split, also on Broadway, and incredibly crispy but not greasy fried chicken at Big jones, which does lots of other southern staples. bought some cards and paper goods at Foursided. PErfect day.

Dim sum anyone

Dim sum anyone

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Hoq Restaurant in DSM not so Hot

I’m beginning to sound like the town sourpuss but yet another meh meal at one of Des Moines’ up-and-coming (or maybe not) restaurant. Hoq promises farm-to-table ingredients which this time of year apparently means that almost everything was made with asparagus, which fortunately is a vegetable we like but not in excess. My major complaint is that the food is overpriced. I had two tiny lambchops with asparagus and little cubes of potatoes for $36 (good flavor but grassfed so tough and not cooked medium rare as requested – one of mine was fine, the other well-done; one of our companions got two very rare chops and complained sufficiently to get his order knocked off the bill). D’s steak was a better entree – a big hunk of meat also served with asparagus (this time bacon-wrapped) and what looked like the same potato cubes that came with the lamb. N’s salmon looked good and she had no complaints. I think though there’s a reason the place was mostly empty on a Friday night. The food should be exceptional for the prices charged and it wasn’t.

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Great decor – meh food…Des Moines

I hope this isn’t a trend but yet again, we’ve gone to a new restaurant in Des Moines hopeful and left disappointed. Great decor in a cool old building downtown. Very unexceptional food. We probably won’t return. In the case of last night, we thought +39, an Italian restaurant in a beautifully renovated old building across from the sculpture garden would be interesting contemporary Italian  – which sadly we haven’t found in Des Moines to date – because the owner is from Italy and allegedly had a restaurant in Sardinia (as well as Ames, Ia.) But nothing we had was interesting or even particularly good – and in many cases it wasn’t even hot (cold pizza, cold pasta, even cold cappuccino) which was disappointing on a surprisingly wet cold May evening.  The raspberry gelato was indeed cold but it had the texture of ice cream. Good ice cream but not gelato.  This is the third restaurant we’ve been to lately in downtown Des Moines that looked great but tasted bland. I’d rather have bland decor and great food. Or better yet – great decor and food!

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Des Moines – East Village’s Iowa Tap Room and more Cedar Rapids restaurants

iowataproomWe continue to be amazed and appreciative of the new restaurants and bars opening up in Des Moines, especially along our favorite bike route through the ever-growing East Village. Yesterday we stopped at the Iowa Tap Room which opened about two months ago in what would have been an anonymous building in a remote location just a few years ago.  It’s a beer drinkers mecca with a giant Sukup metal grain bin in the center of the room’s wood, brick and metal furnishings that sprouts taps from about a 100 Iowa beers and ciders.  There were plenty of tables (it’s got a roomy dance-hall feel) but we enjoyed sitting at the bar in from of the metal grain bin, sampling some Back Pocket Gold Coin (from Coralville,Ia) for dirck and Wilson Orchard Cider (from Iowa City). The onion rings were quite good – the rest of the menu didn’t particularly interest us, lots of fancy burgers, sandwiches, heavy stuff. But we’ll definitely visit again!

The DSM Register followed in our footsteps from last weekend, visiting Cedar Rapids restaurants  (http://www.desmoinesregister.com/story/entertainment/dining/2016/04/20/cedar-rapids-restaurants-dining-tour/82907664/) and featuring two of the ones we visited – Cobble Hill and NewBo Market. Here are a few other places they mentioned.

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Exploring in and around Cedar Rapids: NewBo market, Cobble Hill restaurant, Anamosa, Stone city

cedarapidspix3I’ve been curious for awhile to visit the NewBo market area of Cedar Rapids and so we finally did yesterday. I would have to say that it’s not quite there yet but that’s fine – Des Moines’ East Village wasn’t quite there for several years and then suddenly it is is very much there. The Market – inside a cavernous metal building has food stalls and a few food-related or home-stuffs stores, none that knocked my socks off (but then D. kind of ruined it by reminding me of the truly awesome market we went to in Lisbon – yes, Lisbon, Portugal, last fall…) D.  had some okay mexican food. I had okay Korean dumplings. We walkeded past some of the cool old rehabbed buildings near the market in NewBo (New Bohemia) – not much there yet. There’s several restaurants (we’d already eaten) and a few shops (DSM’s Raygun just opened, which should be  a draw – except for people in Des Moines and Iowa City who already have their own; there’s a small well-cultivated book store.) There was an antique shop (of sorts) closed on Saturdays at 3 p.m. (Really??)cedarrapidspix1

We wandered over to the neighboring Czech Village – which is sort of like DSM’s Valley Junction area with antique and junk shops, plus a famous old Czech bakery. Didn’t find that much of interest.

We did have a very good meal at Cobble Hill, in an old brick storefront downtown. It’s named after a Brooklyn neighborhood (which my brother used to live in) and did seem to pull off the Brooklyn hip-rustic-make/it/yourself vibe, combined with friendly unpretentious Midwestern service and fresh Midwestern meat and veg used to produce sophisticated one-of-a-kind entrees that usually worked. The chef hails from a restaurant, the Lincoln Cafe, now closed, that we used to enjoy in Mount Vernon, Ia and was recently a Jame Beard semifinalist. My lamb was delicious – served with a salad that had so many notes, favors, ingredients I can’t begin to pull them all apart. Eating it was a bit like a dissection – is that broccoli? this is a weird little shrimp? is this green soft thing the spietzle? The dessert was truly bizarre – an egg-shaped scoop of what we believe was guava sorbet. Deliciously sour. Then a strange pale triangle take-off on an ice cream dilly bar, but with white chocolate outside and an inside that didn’t quite work – it wasn’t quite ice cream, odd consistency and not much flavor, then there were crunchy bits scattered around the plate that looked and tasted like fancy grapenuts and little dabs of purple stuff that was also sour and tasty. On the flip side, I had a deliciously simple homemade pomegranate limeade. And a plate of house-cured meats and veg was full of interesting flavors – my favorite a duck rillette (sp?) spread that was delicious when spread on top of grilled nutty bread with a dried cherry marinated in balsamic vinegar (my best guess here..)

Anamosa prison

Anamosa prison

There still isn’t much in Stone City (where Grant Wood once painted) – except some very pretty old limestone buildings including an old “General Store” that’s now a very busy bar and restaurant. We sat on the back patio overlooking the Wapsipinicon River on a beautiful afternoon. Lots of bikers were inside the limestone-walled bar and family groups in the restaurant.   We had to stop and visit our favorite state prison/”reformatory” in Amamosa, a bizarrely beautiful old building that, as I recall, was built with the idea that beauty could help reform the worst lawbreakers. The Prison’s museum – another oddity – appears to still be in business although it was closed by the time we arrived.

And who says they don’t have a sense of humor in the small town of Ladora, Iowa: (see below)

As seen in Ladora, Iowa

As seen in Ladora, Iowa

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Where to eat when next in Detroit? Mabel Gray

The NYTimes shines a spotlight on a Detroit-area restaurant Mabel Gray. It’s located in Hazel Park, which I recall less about than Faygo, a Detroit-area pop (aka soda) from my youth that the restaurant reportedly serves. Surely they also serve Vernors!

It’s named after Alice Gray (middle name Mabel) who was known as  Diana of the Dunes – who has a compelling story (see below).

 

Alice Gray was one of the best and brightest. She was born November 25, 1881. She graduated from South Division High School where she and two of her classmates were known as “the college class”. She came to the USNO after completion of her degree in mathematics at the University of Chicago…. She graduated Phi Beta Kappa in 1903 receiving honorable mentions for excellence in astronomy, mathematics, Latin, and Greek… If the monotony of computing was difficult for other bright women, it must have been especially difficult on Alice Gray, she was to say the least, a free spirit. Not much is known of her work here at the Observatory, though she was known to have had an intense interest in astronomy and wanted to pursue her studies in tide research. … Miss Gray was known to wear her hair cut short and also worked in pants!
In 1905 she apparently left Washington for Germany to continue her studies at the Gottingen University. It was in Germany that she became interested in a “walking commune”, which was a movement that encouraged people to give up material possessions and live off the bounty of the land.
Alice Gray returned to the United States and went to work in Chicago as an editorial secretary for the Astrophysical Journal which was published by the University. Miss Grays real fame came later in her life when in 1915 at the age of 35, she gave up on civilization and became a recluse in the Lake Michigan Dunes. “In solitude when we are least alone,” a passage from Byron served as inspiration for Alice Gray when she took over an abandoned shack with little more than a jelly glass, a knife, a spoon, a blanket, and two guns. Alice reported that Lord Byron’s poem provided “my first longings to get away from the conventional world, and I never gave up the idea, although a long time passed before I could fulfill it.” The press dubbed this beautiful and well educated daughter of a Chicago physician “Diana of the Dunes” perhaps in reference to Diana, the goddess of the moon and Miss Grays habit of moonlit skinny-dipping in Lake Michigan.
Alice Gray survived in her ramshackle shack by building driftwood boxes and selling them to buy bread and salt. She ate fish she caught and gathered berries and edible plants from her surroundings. She patronized the local library, and spoke in public about her interest in natural history and Dune lore. In 1916 she told a local reporter that “I wanted to live my own life a free life. The life of a salary earner in the cities is slavery, a constant fight for the means of living.”
In 1920 she met Paul Eisenblatter who went by the name of Paul Wilson, a fellow recluse, and by 1921 they were sharing a shack they called Wren’s Nest. Some accounts report that the couple were married in 1921 but others can not confirm that fact. Alice Gray Wilson never lost her free spirit, and there are several reports of her having fiery confrontations with both the press and the law including one in which she received a fractured skull.
Civilization infringed on the couples privacy and reporters hounded her relentlessly even her manuscripts were taken from their shack. Eventually “Diana of the Dunes” and the “Giant of the Dunes” as Mr. Wilson became to be known because of his towering six foot five inch height, made plans to escape to Texas via raft. These plans were never realized because Mrs. Alice Gray Wilson died of uremic poisoning after many years of kidney trouble on February 8, 1925 at the age of 43. Mrs. Wilson’s last request to be cremated and have her ashes scattered over the dunes was denied possibly because her family would not allow it and Mr. Wilson did not have the money to fulfill her wish. Reporters continued to plague the couple even after her death when the final assault by reporters at Mrs. Wilson’s funeral caused Mr. Wilson to pull out a gun and threaten to kill himself as well as a reporter and Chester Dunn, a nephew of Mrs. Wilson. Nobody was hurt, but Wilson was jailed and Alice Gray Wilson was buried in Oakhill cemetery near Gary Indiana.

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