Ithaca, my Ithaca

I am so thrilled to be back in my favorite place in the world, certainly my sentimental favorite. Ithaca is so full of memories that go back to my childhood when my parents– who met in Ithaca in college and loved this place — took my siblings and me here as kids to Cornell alumni university for a week each summer during the 1970s.

Then there were my own college years here (1977-1981) and then the wonderful summers I spent in the 1990s and early 2000’s with my husband and kids and my dear former college roommates.

After a 10 year absence, I’m back in a sweet cottage high above Cayuga’s waters that our dear friends now own, near the cottages we rented for several summers. Love it! We went to some of my touchstones- the Ithaca Farmers Market, Wegmans (best super market) and cream at the top (best ice cream stand cut into a cornfield: tonight’s flavors White lightening; Guatemalan Ripple).

And I feel particularly fortunate to be here because I almost ended up in Buffalo, a last minute possible diversion after fog hampered our initial landing at Tompkins County airport. our flight almost got diverted to Buffalo at the last minute.

Cayuga Lake sunset

As we were preparing to land the plane suddenly seemed to be on the slowest landing possible . The pilot finally told us the fog had reached a level that did not permit landing so we were circling the airport in hopes it would clear. If it didn’t clear in 15 minutes we would be diverted to buffalo. (Why buffalo and not somewhere closer like Syracuse?) anyway we finally landed in the dark and still foggy night. Couldn’t be happier to see my old pals!!!

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Detroit airport dining- zingermans/plum market and papa joe’s

Haven’t been to my hometown airport in awhile and the dining options are much improved from what I remember when I was a kid. (That could be said of the airport beyond the food. Barely recognized.) Outposts of 3 well-known Michigan foodie Meccas are here. I couldn’t resist zingerman’s, the famous Ann Arbor deli empire, which has teamed up with Plum market (which I know only about from Chicago). I got the “skinny” classic corned beef sandwich which is hefty enough. The meat was fattier than I like (note to self: maybe ask for lean next time. I so seldom get corned beef that I have forgotten some basics.) but the rye bread was thick chewy and superb.

Hope I won’t be here longer than planned. The sky looks testy and it just started pouring. My Des Moines flight landed one gate away from my Ithaca flight.

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South American food tour in Des Moines

Anyone who eats out in Des Moines – or aspires to – has noticed a sudden profusion of South American restaurants in town – Peruvian (an elegant little place called Panka on Ingersoll Ave), Argentinian, Brazilian and Ecuadoran. Apparently the mass is critical enough to warrant a South American food tour (on July 27 and Oct. 5) —  Check out this story in the DSM Register. https://www.desmoinesregister.com/story/entertainment/dining/2019/06/18/wow-des-moines-tours-launches-south-american-cuisine-peru-colombis-argentina-brazil-near-me/1485577001/

(It mentions Columbian food too – don’t know what restaurant serves that!)

 

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Visiting the Caucus Bistro in Ladora, Iowa

We were on our way to hear 19 – yes 19 – Democrats vying to be the presidential nominee in Iowa’s first-in-the-nation presidential contest. We were braced to be hungry — the Democratic party event in Cedar Rapids promised to be long, with little to no food. So what better time to visit the new cleverly-named Caucus Bistro in the small town of Ladora, Iowa — about midway between our house in Des Moines and the hotel ballroom in Cedar Rapids where Democrats including Bernie Sanders, Elizabeth Warren, Kirsten Gillibrand (see photo op below), Kamala Harris, Beto O’Rourke, Amy Klohbuchar and “Mayor Pete” (so-named because I can’t remember how to spell his last name, although I think I now know how to pronounce it).

Located along two-lane Highway 6, the Caucus Bistro is inside a restored almost 100-year-old “jewel box-style” bank — a once-elegant, still-faded sandstone-colored brick building with two huge Doric columns. Inside, the imposing building turned out to be as cool as its caucus-themed decor. The main restaurant is one small square with a very high ceiling and architectural reliefs of columns and a band of zigzag adornment (the kind with the occasional swastika, pre-Hitler’s appropriation) and portentous sayings in adorned letters crawling across the tops of each wall that presumably made you comfortable stashing your hard-earned money in such an institution. (“Wealth is the Achievement of Thrift” “Frugality is the Parent of Fortune” and so forth…) Sadly the bank didn’t last long. Opened in 1920, it closed 11 years later and fell into disrepair.

We sat in the bar area — behind the still-remaining wood booths for the tellers, complete with little brass hooks beside each that the enthusiastic owner told us were used by tellers to hang their visors. (question: why did bank tellers wear visors?) The place is decorated with great old photos from caucuses past – George H.W. Bush running with a girls cross country team in Des Moines; then -presidential candidate Bill Clinton sitting on a hay bale with then-Iowa senator Tom Harkin, etc.

We enjoyed our two flatbreads — the Lame Duck and the Challenger – both made on thin naan, brushed with oil or butter and flecked with this-n’-that and served on a slate board. The “Inaugural balls” — 3 balls of cookie dough, topped with syrup and accompanied by a few square pretzel bits – were way too sweet.

But the place is well worth a visit!

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Queer Abstraction show opens at the Des Moines Art Center

Word has it over 900 people showed up last Saturday night (June 1) for the Des Moines Center’s first show to feature the artwork of LGBT&Q artists…The crowd included many members of the “queer” community, some drag queens, no shortage of presumably straight folks and me. It was a great celebration – with food, drink, music – and, of course, work by 15 artists that is well worth a visit to see! Oh and it also won a major prize from Sotheby’s: https://www.sothebys.com/en/articles/sothebys-prize-winning-queer-abstraction-exhibition-breaks-new-ground-in-iowa

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Newberry Library/West Side Story at the Lyric Opera House/eating at the Ritz – Chicago

I had an interview with someone who works at The Newberry Library located in an elegant old mansion in Chicago, just west of the Gold Coast. I wandered around afterward and particularly enjoyed the gift shop, which has a great selection of Chicago books and cards. I also peeked in on an exhibit about dance in Chicago, including g a poster from the early days of Hubbard Street Dance, one of my favorite companies.

In the evening, a real treat courtesy of my sister — a live performance of “west side story” in the also elegant Lyric Opera House, which I had never been inside. We played it safe with our pre-theater meal and ate in the restaurant in the Lyric which was fine and best of all, quick. The show was fantastic – the “Maria” had the most glorious voice, the dancing was great, the sets and costumes and live orchestra all great too. I didn’t want it to end.

Today, for one last hurrah, my Aunt MAT took me for a delicious lunch at the classy restaurant in the Ritz Carlton. Not too shabby! And now, here at O’Hare, my carryon under-the-seat-only bag with the cheapest fare (aka basic) appears to have passed muster. What a memorable and action-packed trip to Chicago! Thx to my family there!!!

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Manet at the Chicago art institute, shake shack/Chicago Athletic Association /mon ami Gabi/rain — Chicago

Some of my favorite Manet paintings are not in the new show at the Art Institute of Chicago but that’s okay because 1) I look at them all the time (the poster versions of Olympia and The Balcony) 2) there was so much else to see. The show is small, much smaller than the Bonnard show at The Tate Modern in London that I went to in March. But the lovely colorful portraits of elegantly dressed women and still lives of flowers bounced off the walls. Being in rooms full of these paintings made me happy, although they were painted during a sad period in Manet’s life, when he was sick and nearing death.

We also popped into a nearby room full of American painter’s work including Grant Wood’s American Gothic, a famous Edward Hopper and other great works by Georgia O’keefe, Diego Rivera and Thomas Hart Benton. A few user tips: I was glad we bought fast pass tickets online a few hours before we arrived. Saved us from standing in a long line. What I should have done was bought a membership for $70, rather than tix to the museum/special exhibit which cost $84 for two of us. (I need to do the math to see what it costs to bring a guest as a member.) Members also get discounts at the museum store which has some gear stuff, including jewelry by Chicago artists. And of course members can keep coming back without further payment.

Inside The Chicago Athletic Club

After lunch we went to the Shake Shack across from the museum to accommodate pregnant Emma, who was craving a burger. I had a small “smoke shack” burger with bacon and some sort of sauce with hot peppers. Spicy and delicious. We roamed around the spectacular old world elegant Chicago Athletic Association. (A retro-looking Shake Shack is on the ground floor) which is now a very cool hotel and took in the glorious Chicago view from the balcony on the top floor restaurant Cindy’s. (Note to self: Go on a free 2 pm tour of the building.)

Dinner (yet another birthday fete) was steak frites and Cesar salad at Mon Ami Gabi, followed by a driving tour in the rain by a friend of MAT’s of the gardend and zoo in Lincoln Park, which somehow I have not yet managed to visit. The lily Pond there comes much recommended.

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Bike the Drive/Logan Square Bang Bang Pie Shop —Chicago

Yes, Bike the Drive was definitely worth getting up at 5:30 a.m.. The chance to ride a bike along Lake Shore Drive with nothing except other bikes, albeit thousands of them, was much-appreciated. The annual event was orderly and well-organized, with lots of helpful volunteers, very little red tape or lines, and plenty of free food (bananas, apples, cliff bars, even designer coffee.) I was riding a borrowed 6-speed Schwinn with a very comfortable wide seat. The only minor challenge was making it up several minor inclines. Otherwise the route was flat and very scenic. I spotted sights along “LSD” I’d never seen during decades of zipping along it in my car.

We got lucky with the weather. The sky was overcast and dark at times but it never rained beyond some drizzle. At points, the sun almost came out and the lake looked beautiful, as did the dramatic skyline. What a treat to see some of the dramatic high-rise architecture along the river leading to the lake from new vantage points. And for a moment you had a feel for what might be if we were all less dependent on our gas-guzzling cars. I did recall, at times, the thrill of riding on some bike-only bridge in Copenhagen and, of course, the temporary bike-only rural roads in Iowa during RAGBRAI.

I rode a few blocks from Emma and Rockets in Edgewater to the BRyn Mawr entrance onto the Drive and rode south 8 miles to Grant Park where I met up wi5 my sister Jill and two of her friends who took the El in from Oak Park. I wanted to keep riding south but we sort of ran out of time (there are some timing issues to keep track of – and I am glad I started at 6:30 am) so we rode back north. next time, I may being my bike and ride all the way down and back, the earlier the better.

This afternoon we went to the Sunday farmers market in Logan Square and to delicious Bang Bang Pie shop, which serves, yes, pie — sweet and savory. We had excellent chocolate caramel pie and key lime pie (they’d run out of strawberry rhubarb) and sampled the chicken pot pie. Also had great homemade lemonade with free refills. We also walked Millie around E & R’s lovely Edgewater neighborhood.

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Dodging tornadoes in Iowa/cheese 101 at Eataly in Chicagol

We somehow managed to drive from Des Moines to Chicago last night without directly encountering any of the storms that were popping up all around us. Outside Iowa City on I-80, we saw scary looking white clouds (which may or may not have produced the tornado we learned touched down about 25 minutes before we passed through) and in Illinois, lightning lit up the dark night just south of us and north of us off and on. Needless to say, we were very happy when we got to Chicago around midnight.

Today, the weather was much more pleasant than anticipated in Chicago, sunny and warm instead of rainy. We spent two hours at the scoula on the second floor of eataly, taking a very fun cheese and wine tasting class that emma and rocket got me for my birthday. Great gift idea and we sampled 6 cheeses, and 3 “natural” wines and learned everything we ever wanted to know about to cheese from the cheesemonger.

Cheeses we tried and enjoyed (all of those served): casa Madaio, Canestrato, Campania; Jasper hill, Bayley Haven Blue, Vermont; Agriform,, Parmigiano; Arrigoni, quartirolo Lombardo; ca de’ambros, Nocetto di capra (goat cheese) Guffanti, sola…wine: micro Marriott I, Bianco dell’emilia

Dinner was very good at a place with the unappetizing name:Income Tax in Edgewater. Mediterranean fare.

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Iowa Spring Barn Tour – June 22-23 – read all about it here!

The Iowa Barn Foundation’s Spring Barn Tour is June 22-23 in Dubuque and Clayton counties. Here’s a story I wrote about it – and the annual fall tour – for the Minneapolis Star Tribune. Click here.

Midwest Traveler: Iowa barn tours tell the story of the state

So many barns, so little time: Two annual Iowa events inspire dreaming of country life.

By Betsy Rubiner Special to the Star Tribune

MAY 16, 2019 — 5:47PM

PHOTOS BY BETSY RUBINER • SPECIAL TO THE STAR TRIBUNE

 

Red barn or white barn? Wood barn or stone barn? My husband and I have long debated these hypothetical questions on meandering drives through rural Iowa, admiring tidy farmsteads and dreaming — only dreaming — of a life in the country.

But I found myself debating between a standard rectangular barn, a rare round barn or an even rarer square barn after visiting well-tended examples of each during Iowa’s annual All-State Barn Tour, a free, self-guided event featuring 85 restored barns dating from the mid-1800s to the early 1900s.

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