Home-cooked meals in Italy – how to find them

I have had the good fortune to visit Italy several times (although not, alas, during  the past 20 years) – and some of the best food I had there (which is saying a lot) was during  a 1982 visit  when I spent the week cooking and eating with a family in Rome.  This was not planned. I was supposed to spend that Easter week with our family friends Hugo and Romano but they were called away – far away –  when Hugo’s mother died in Cuba.

I was taken in by the upstairs neighbors  in Hugo’s modern apartment block – Rudy, Franca and their adorable young daughters Francesca and Veronica. I spoke very little Italian and Rudy was the only one who could speak some English but  the family member I saw the least. Instead, I spent much of my time with Franca in the kitchen and at the family table and I could swear we had conversations – even if we didn’t converse in the same language. I knew a little about Italian cooking – she knew a lot more – and that’s what we did together.  Cooked. And ate. The result, thanks to Franca (not me) was invariably delicious.

Now comes word in today’s NYTimes travel section that visitors to Italy can find a home-cooked meal via an outfit called Home Food (www.homefood.it) which appears to match tourists with locals cooking amazing home-cooked meals. (The writer had the good sense to pursue this adventure with someone who spoke near-fluent Italian.) The story also mentions agriturismo –  ag-themed hotels that are apparently the  the Italian version of agri-tourism, something we know a thing or two about here in Iowa.

When I return to Italy (and I swear I will), I am sad to say that I can no longer dine with Rudy and Franca as I did not only in Rome but during two later trips when they lived in Pantigliate,  a modern suburb outside Milan. (“Roma bella! Pantigliate brutto!” lamented Franca  – and I understood her perfectly.) They are no longer alive. But maybe a Home Food experience will be the next best thing.

Leave a comment

Filed under DINING, Italy

Hawaii – things to remember

D.  may have a biz trip to Hawaii in two years and I hope to tag along.    From a recent NYT article comes these suggestions (the more economical, interesting ones) when visiting the Big Island:

– Kaawa Loa Plantation guest house – kaawaloaplantation.com – doubles from $125.

– Shipman House B&B – with weekly hula lessons. (can’t miss that.)

Coffee trail stops: Bong Brothers Coffee; Hilo Coffee Mill, Kona Blue Sky Coffee, Mountain Thunder Kona Coffee

Beaches – Hapuna Beach (sunbathing); Kaunaoa Beach (hotel resort beach but all these are open to the public, surprisingly) Kealakekua Bay (snorkeling) Papkolea Beach (green sand? green sand.)

1 Comment

Filed under Hawaii

searching for that cottage up north part 2

So far, I’ve very impressed with visitupnorth.com – which I’ve been using to find a place to rent in northern Michigan this summer. Within a day of emailing the website, a very helpful woman emailed me back – asked a few more questions and prompted produced several viable ideas (both a place that rents by the week and options if we want to stay just a few days) and valuable information (like how far such-and-such a cottage is from town and a public beach).

What did we do before the Internet? Actually I know what we – or I – did. Fifteen-or-so years ago when I was first looking for a place to rent with friends in upstate New York, I called the local newspaper to see what their want-ads offered and I looked at tourism information brochures. The one place I rented came virtually sight unseen – the owner sent me some fuzzy photographs. What a change.

Leave a comment

Filed under Michigan, summer vacation, vacation rentals

Searching for a cottage up north (i.e. northern Michigan)

I’ve just cracked open a new vacation-planning effort – a summer trip possibly to northern Michigan. By this time, our summer plans are usually more solid – but with one kid going off to an as-yet-determined college with an as-yet-determined start date, I’ve had to hold off. Now I’m wondering if I’ll be too late to find a place – especially one in the third week of August, which for now (and this could change) appears to be our best bet for everyone to get away. I do have some good websites to start my search: VisitupNorth.com and Leelanau Vacation Rentals.

Leave a comment

Filed under Michigan, summer vacation

downtown manhattan and brooklyn

A gorgeous spring day lured us downtown to ramble around Soho, Nolita, Little Italy, Lower East Side, Chinatown – that mishmash of interesting neighborhoods that bump up against east other downtown. We stopped at Russ and Daughters on E. Houston to pick up rugalach and babka for Sunday brunch; wandered along Orchard Street south of Delancy past the Tenement Museum, which was doing a brisk biz, then to Prince Street where we ate a terrific lunch at Cafe Habana – not the sit down place but the one with a counter and a few tables. Place was packed for good reason – as we suspected (we’d never heard of the place) and soon discovered. Delicious cuban sandwiches, spicy sautéed spinach, corn on the cob doused with some parmesan-like cheese, spices and lime; homemade lemonade.

At night, the big event was my brother’s wedding in Park Slope at the lovely old Montauk Club. Wonderful event, of course, but my new sister-in-law made it extra special with all kinds of thoughtful touches  including framed photos for each guest with the bride and/or groom. We danced until they kicked us out and a lot of us ended up at a nearby bar on Flatbush Ave. – Sharlene’s. We didn’t get back to our borrowed digs on the upper east side until 2:30 a.m.

Leave a comment

Filed under New York City

Return to the High line:nyc

Another gorgeous day in nyc and D and E had never been to the High Line so I gladly went with them. This time, we stopped for gelato at Chelsea markets. Last night we went to a rehearsal dinner for my brother and H at Craftbar.We were in a private room but the restaurant itself  looked interesting – our food and service was very good. That area around Broadway and 20th looks like its full of interesting restaurants including the Gramercy Tavern.

Leave a comment

Filed under New York City

High life on the High line: NYC

What better place to spend a gorgeous spring day in NYC than the High Line, the new park that was once an abandoned railbed along the  Hudson River. My pal Myra and I found wooden lounge  chairs overlooking the water. Great people watching, scenery, landscape, had a nice chat with two young Dutch guys who were touring architectural sights in the city. Stopped by the Chelsea Market on 15th Street, had tea and peruvian something or other – a cupcake shaped savory dish that was very colorful – yellow and green. Yellow turned out to be mashed potatoes, the green avocado, and there was tuna in there. Yum. Then onto the west village which was humming with people – in the early evening, you could just hear the sounds of people celebrating the day everywhere, spilling out of bars with the windows removed and sitting at outdoor cafe tables. We ate at Westville, a tiny place on 10th street that is one of my favs  – 6:45 was a good time to go. Only had to wait 10 minutes and tables all filled and line got longer through the night. No one does fresh vegetables better. Another gorgeous day.

Leave a comment

Filed under New York City

Roaming around NYC

Is it my imagination or are airlines trying harder to be flyer friendly. Today my flight attendant on Delta even offered me peanuts. free of charge. I got two packets. Oh joy.

NYC was overcast but no longer rainy and I did my usual walk until my  ankles swelled. The blossoms are coming out in central park – yellow, white, red – and the grass is green. I roamed past Belvedere Castle – which for some strange reason I’d never seen. Walked past the Museum of Natural History and spotted my first movie star of the trip – actor Matt Dillon who was eating at a window table at a restaurant at 79th and Columbus. Then onto Nice Matin at 79th and Amsterdam for a very nice lunch with my  brother. Mediterranean Lamb salad and pizza with sundried tomato pesto and anchovies.

Leave a comment

Filed under New York City

agritourism – the latest

I first wrote an agritourism story for the NYTimes ten years ago (“Historic Hybrid in Iowa” published Nov. 26, 2000) – and even then it wasn’t all that new.  But now comes word, again from the NYTimes, that agritourism is alive and well (or “gaining ground from coast to coast”) My story years ago was about the Garst Farm in Coon Rapids, Iowa.  This was a real workaday farm  that takes overnight guests and offers activities like riding, fishing and hiking. It also has a distinguished history.  In 1958, Soviet Premier Nikita Khrushchev visited as part of efforts to improve his country’s agriculture.

Now there are several websites where you can find farms to visit and even work on. See Worldwide Opportunities in Organic Farms (wwoofusa.org) and Ruralbounty.com, a national agritourism registry.

Interestingly, I looked up Garst Farm on Ruralbounty.com and found it’s now part of something called Whiterock Conservancy (see http://www.whiterockconservancy.org/accomodations.aspx)

2 Comments

Filed under Agritourism, Iowa

New (sort of) Bike Trail in Central Iowa

Just in time for spring comes word that the long-awaited 25-mile High Trestle Trail (previously known as the Ankeny to Woodward trail) north of Des Moines is almost completely ready for riding.  Twenty miles of the trail – along a former rail bed – from Ankeny to Sheldahl and Slater to Madrid is largely finished.  But the really cool part – the 13-story half-mile trestle bridge across the Des Moines River Valley, which would be one of the country’s largest trail bridges – won’t be done until next fall. T o be honest, I’ve long been unclear about when and where to ride this trail. See if you can figure it out from:  a2wtrail.org.

Leave a comment

Filed under biking, Iowa