Madison County, Iowa – beyond the bridges

The DM register awhile back offered some suggestions for a road trip in Winterset, beyond visiting the famous covered bridges of Madison County so here they be:

– Heavenly Habitat Bed and Breakfast – the name apparently stems from its former life as a Lutheran church. There’s two rooms available plus a shop selling shabby chic antiques. It’s at 218 S. Ave.

– Fons and Porter Quilt supply – run by two women who have a magazine, mail-order biz and quilting show on Iowa Public TV. 54 Court St.

– Rudy’s – a western-themed restaurant on, where else, John Wayne Drive (an homage to Winterset’s famous native son.). offers chicken and noodles, meatloaf, homemade pie and the like. (Could it have a better small town ambiance than the Northside Cafe, of “Bridges of Madison County” movie fame?)

I am still trying to remember the name of a business that sells antiques and old farm stuff every once in awhile in a barn somewhere in Madison County. If anyone out there can recall the name or details, please help me out!

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Chicago design

Hardly a day seems to go by without a story about some ultra-stylish hotel, restaurant, or boutique in Chicago – and here’s another one from last week’s NYT sunday T magazine – about Ugo Alfano Casati’s two-story gallery in “Chicago’s trendy meatpacking district” – full of midcentury and contemporary pieces w/simple, elegant design. see casatigallery.com. Doubt much of it is in my price range judging from the $58,000 bookcase and $12,500 floor lamp.

The guy eats at a Mexican restaurant called Salpicon (salpicon.com) – maybe it’s not as expensive as the stuff he collects.

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chicago restaurants – more!

More Chicago restaurant recommendations – from my sister who’s lived in and around the Windy City for a long time:

· La Sardine (French/small)  – http://www.lasardine.com/

Publican – a favorite of the chefs – large tables/communal eating

The Purple Pig – small but awesome food – small shared plates  http://thepurplepigchicago.com/ (located on Mag Mile)

Night wood – very cool and hip in Pilsen – great food

Prosecco – great Italian  http://ristoranteprosecco.com/home.html;   Very good.  nice quiet setting.

Frontera/Topolobambo –

Spiaggia Cafe.  Very nice.  A Barack and Michelle favorite (although they go to the main restaurant, not the cafe).

Sepia.  Very good.  http://sepiachicago.com/ (This one I was trying to remember last week while in Chicago – been to several times and liked.)

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The real Grant Wood? And another way of looking at his Iowa landscapes…

There’s a new biography out about famous American (and Iowan) painter Grant Wood (R. Tripp Evans’s “Grant Wood: A Life”) and a review in the NYTimes reports it doesn’t paint the typical portrait of Grant as the “simple, homespun, rustic Iowan he may have seemed to be.” And it questions Midwest travel marketing that welcomes people to “Grant Wood Country” and Wood’s vision “of the values that made this country great!”

Instead, the book reportedly argues that Grant and his work have another side – that’s more shall we say eccentric or contrarian even sensual and sly.  Those rolling hills of Anamosa County depicted in his famous painting “Stone City?” – the author says they unmistakably refer to rounded mens’ buttocks (Grant, while married to a woman, was homosexual we’re told) and I won’t even mention what a field of sprouting cornstalks represents.  Go ahead, take a guess.

It does have me wondering more about the Grant Wood poster we have hanging over our bed that shows three dour old Daughters of the American Revolution holding tea cups. I’ve always found it amusing but now could it mean something else? See: http://www.nytimes.com/2010/10/04/books/04book.html?scp=1&sq=Grant%20Wood&st=cse

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Three great fall drives – one obvious; two not

Couldn’t help but be amused by three perfect fall drives recommended by People Magazine. I’ve been on all three – which is not what many could claim, I’d guess. The first is a no-brainer: Highway 1, must-see stop: Big Sur. The second isa drive along the Mississippi River, with a must-see stop : Dubuque, Iowa, which is one of my favorite cities in Iowa (and this is a drive I wrote about for the New York Times travel section several years ago.) The third drive was even more of a surprise: Highway 50 through the middle of the country. Must-see stop: Dodge City, Ks.  (With all due respect to my in-laws who live in and around Dodge, I don’t buy this one…)

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Filed under California, Dodge City, Iowa, Kansas misc

Some more restaurant finds in Chicago – and one hotel

I have been to Chicago more times than I can count but never stayed in a hotel – thanks to an abundance of generous relatives who live in and around the city – until last Sunday night. A friend called at the last minute inviting me to join her in Chicago for a one-night trip after her son couldn’t join her as planned. She’d already paid for the hotel and the bus tickets.

We stayed at the Chicago Hilton across from Grant Park – a grand old hotel with an enormous lobby with a high vaulted ceiling, lots of marble columns, chandeliers, sweeping carpeted staircases, big ballrooms. There’s also a photo display of scenes from Obama’s victory night party taken in and around the hotel. Our room was comfortable, spacious and clean.  I slept surprisingly well, for a hotel stay. My friend found some sort of deal for $161 a night – about $100 off the regular price.

For dinner, we went to the new trendy The Girl and The Goat – opened by former Top Chef winner Stephanie (can’t remember her last name) on Randolph Street. Fun and good small plates. Next time I’ll try the meat entrees – this time I stuck with vegetarian because  my friend is a vegetarian and we shared plates. We had the chickpea fritters, cauliflower and squash ravioli plates – all very complicated, flavorful dishes, surprisingly large portions for two people. The chickpea fritters were our favorite – because they tasted nothing like what we thought chickpea fritters would taste like. Not heavy and gritty. Instead light and creamy – more like polenta. Place was loud and dark but we were at a table where we could see and hear each other for the most part. Our server seemed disappointed we ordered so little (plus one drink apiece.) Oh well.

We ate breakfast the next morning at an old coffee shop – the Artist’s Cafe – on Michigan Avenue that has a storied history (visited by many Balanchine, Baryshnikov etc.) not to mention great hashbrowns and attentive service. Then onto the explore the Art Institute, new wing and old, and Millennium Park and saunter along Michigan Avenue where we ended up eating at the FoodLife food court in Water Tower place which was surprisingly good- although had almost too many choices. You get a little plastic card when you arrive and use that to record what you’ve bought, then pay when you leave. Good system although you can lose track of how much you’ve spent. My friend and I ultimately ended up with soup – shrimp and lobster bisque for me; Mediterranean lentil for her. Both good. And I had a fresh squeezed orange juice and my friend had coffee-flavored gelato.

We bought sandwiches from Potbelly around the block from Michigan avenue near DePaul University’s downtown campus – surprisingly good low-mayo tuna sub that worked well to eat on the megabus back to Des Moines.

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Filed under Chicago, DINING, LODGING

cedar rapids eating options

You never know when fate might bring you to Cedar Rapids – and you’re hungry when you arrive – so here are a few restaurant options I found in the latest Edible Iowa magazine:

– La Salsita, 700 1st Ave. 319-365-9733 (Mexican)

– Gyro Hut, 1455 Mount Vernon Rd., 319-364-1959 (fully loaded gyros)

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Other state park options around Tucson/southern Arizona

I’ve apparently dissuaded at least one reader from visiting Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument, after he read my blog post yesterday that it was listed in the book “101 Places Not to Visit.”  But there are plenty of other options for great hiking and beautiful desert landscapes in Tucson and Southern Arizona. Here are a few:

Saguaro National Park – This huge park west of Tucson looks like the set of an old western – and in fact an old movie lot there has been turned into a tourist attraction (which I’ve avoided.) You expect to see cowboys and Indians (okay, Native Americans) racing down the mountains when you drive through. Lots of good hiking trails and the wonderful Desert Museum.

Chiricahua National Monument – this is about two hours, as I recall, east of Tucson and it’s full of bizarre rock formations that you can hike right through, up and around. Well worth a visit. This from the monument’s websites:  “The Apaches called this place ‘The Land of Standing-Up Rocks’, a fitting name for an extraordinary rock wonderland. Early pioneers in the late 1800s sensed the unique beauty and singularity of the rock formations in the area. They were instrumental in persuading Congress to protect this ‘Wonderland of Rocks’…
There are approximately twelve thousand acres of wild, rugged terrain within which the rock formations and a great ecological diversity are protected.”

Pichacho Peak State Park – never been but heard it’s nice, especially during wildflower blooming months

Catalina State Park – this is a sentimental favorite right near my father’s house, some nice easy trails and a trail I’ve always wanted to take to Mount Lemmon. Speaking of which, that’s another place to visit, weather permitting.

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Barcelona stylish budget hotels

Last I heard my brother was looking for a hotel to stay at in Barcelona. We were there in 1989 but don’t remember our hotel being anything special.  So here are four listed in a recent story in Budget Travel. They look like sets from a Pedro Almodovar movie:

– Chic & Basic Born – $118 a night no website address given

– 987 Barcelona – $106 a night 987.barcelonahotel.com

– Hotel Constanza – $119 hotelconstanza.com

– Room Mate Emma – $154  room-matehotels.com

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Names of those restaurants in Chicago and Evanston

Okay – here’s the names of the places we ate at during recent trip to Northwestern:

– Mario’s  on W. Goethe – a low-key neighborhood place near my Aunt’s Apartment near Astor and Division. The seafood pasta in a light broth-based sauce was very good. Meatballs with meat sauce also a hit.

– Melanthios Greek Char House on North Broadway in Lakeview Restaurant. Good char-broiled octopus served with little but oil, garlic and lemon; big greek salad minus lettuce; yummy moussaka. Huge portions. We shared everything. Good service by a waiter who loves the series “The Wire” which we’re also knee-deep in. And we ate outside at tables along the street. Not quite Athens but close enough.

– Dixie’s Kitchen in Evanston – I had the mini-southern sampler special for about $6.50 – a bowl of gumbo, jambalaya and red beans. Gumbo my fave but all good.

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