On zip-lining

No one – including me – can quite believe that I went zip-lining in Panama. For the uninitiated, zip-lining is an adventure sport that involves coasting along a cable strung between two high tree tops. You’re attached by a harness and a metal pulley – and you’re way up high, often soaring above a roaring river.  I’m not afraid of heights – so that wasn’t a problem. But I  do question my technical skill in these kind of things – will I be able to follow directions properly so I don’t end up at a standstill mid-cable dangling over the roaring river? Will I remember when and how to brake. (It involves simply squeezing your hand that the cable is running through – but it’s hard sometimes to figure out just when to start squeezing and how hard.) I didn’t screw up too badly.

I wish I could say it was fun – but I was too nervous to really enjoy it the way the others in our group (five young kids in their early 20s, four German, one Chilean) were. I did try to enjoy the sensation of flying across the tree tops way high on a mountain and occasionally succeeded. It did help that there were six very good-humored, safety-conscious young guys from Boquete Tree Trek as our guides. The first three zips were easier than the final nine because with the last ones, there was more standing and waiting which meant more thinking about the nutty thing we were doing. It kind of reminded me of our trip to Morocco in 1989  – made for interesting story-telling but once is probably enough.

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Ag tours near Panama City and bringing rum home

A reader wanted more information on the agricultural tour we  took outside Panama City. So maybe others do too. We visited a cashew farm and a sugar cane factory in the Province of Cocle near the towns of Nata and Aguadulce , about 90 minutes west of Panama City. The cashew farm is part of the Panafruit Company. The owner is organizing an agro-tourism circuit in southwestern Cocle including companies producing salt, sugar and shrimp, for tourists interested in tropical farming and food production. For more info see: http://www.panama-guide.com/article.php/20070617151703712

The reader suggested visiting the Abuelo/Sec distillery (southwest of where we were, in the Azada Pennisula, in the town of Pese) which I gather produces rum. I just checked and this is the brand of rum my husband bought (for $6.50 a bottle) at the duty-free in Panama City. The distillery may also make seco, a sugar-can-distilled alcohol that I gather tastes like vodka. (Add milk and ice and you have Panama’s most famous drink, mostly in rural areas. We didn’t try – it reminded me of a White Russian- but my husband did grow fond of Balboa beer.)

One word to the wise: remember that if you buy Rum or any other liquid more than three ounces at a foreign airport – and are making a connecting flight in the U.S. – you’ll have to pack it in your checked luggage (at least for the flight within the U.S.)  Otherwise – as we learned the hard way – security will confiscate it from you when you board your connecting flight in the U.S. (In our case, my husband rushed back to get his soon-to-be-rechecked luggage so he could pack the rum inside.  He didn’t end up doing this. Instead, a helpful airport ambassador boxed it for him and put it checked it as a second piece of luggage, at no extra cost.)

 

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Panama: Our best and worst lodging in Panama City

We were fortunate to stay primarily at great places during our recent 10-day (5-hotel) stay in Panama but we did have one dud (which I kind of predicted in advance. Here’s the three places we stayed in and around Panama City:

Gamboa Rainforest Resort – gorgeous tropical resort in the Panama Canal zone about 20 miles  north of Panama City, lush jungle setting with green landscaped lawns stretching out to a muddy river and densely forested jungle-like hills beyond; nice pool; red, orange, purple, yellow Bougainvillea everywhere (and some of the world’s largest rodents called Capybaras that look like a cross between a pig, porcupine, and rat…ick) ‘,knowledgeable and friendly guides who took us on a tour of the Embera Indian Village about an hour away. Didn’t have time to take the aerial tram or visit Monkey Island, alas. Banquet food so-so.

Intercontinental Playa Bonita – another gorgeous resort west of downtown Panama City on the Pacific Ocean with a great view of the city and huge ships approaching the Panama Canal; more pools than I could ever swim in (five – and I didn’t find the fifth until we were leaving); large clean attractive rooms. Banquet food so-so.

Gran Hotel Casino Soloy   – we knew this probably wouldn’t be great (it was only $99 and we picked it primarily for its downtown location, close to the  location close to the airport we were flying out of the next morning and because we were arriving late and leaving early) and we were right. At least it was clean and the staff pleasant.  But it was very noisy (definitely pick a room NOT overlooking the street where the activity was loud and nonstop until about 3 a.m.) Other issues – soft mattress, very limited hot water (we got only a lukewarm shower in the early evening), two bath towels (no hand towels, wash clothes, floor mat), no toiletries beyond a bar of soap. The free breakfast, though, was surprisingly pleasant.

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Using the Kindle in a foreign land: pt. 2

Before I left the US for Panama, I wondered if my Kindle would work in a foreign land. It did work for reading ebooks (which I don’t do on my Kindle, oddly) and it helped that Panama has the same outlet plugs that the U.S. does. But didn’t work for getting my daily New York Times fix – which wasn’t crucial anyway since I don’t tend to read the paper much when I’m racing around on vacation. (Although we did end up watching CNN a few nights because we wanted to know what was happening in Egypt and the rest of the Middle East.)

As for Wi-Fi in general, we found we had to pay for it at the fancy resorts we stayed at in and around Panama City – but it was free at the little $80 a night B&B we stayed at in Bocas del Toro. Why is that?

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Panama: our best and worst dining

During our ten-day visit to Panama – including Panama City, Boquete, and Bocas del Toro – here’s our best/worst list:

Best Restaurant: La Posta in Panama City – the food was as good as we’d heard. And the best service by far we had in Panama. And lovely elegant Havana-style dining room with cream-colored walls, purring ceiling fans, big palms, old photos. The smoked pork chop was huge and perfectly seasoned; the seafood risotto was creamy but the rice still al dente – with big bits of calamari, shrimp, scallops; very thinly sliced beef carpaccio with shaved parmesan, artichokes and a light vinaigrette; a cube of tuna carpaccio that put all other ceviche we had to shame.

Runner-up Best Restaurant: Il Pianista in Boquete – okay, my old adage that when in Rome eat like the Romans just didn’t hold up in Panama. After a few Panamanian restaurants, I wanted to eat in Panama like the Romans. This little almost-hidden Italian restaurant was a welcome respite from rice-and-beans, plantains, and slabs of meat with sauce. On the edge of the road, this tiny place has rough-hewn stone walls, and a handful of tables looking out on what was a raging waterfall when we visited. The outdoor deck was closed due to rain. I had the most delicious Pasta Pomodoro – very simple.  Spaghetti with a very fresh sauce made of local tomatoes, garlic and basil. D had pizza.

Best Entertainment at a Restaurant: Tinajas in Panama City – where we took in the floor show of traditional Panamanian dancers and musicians. The food was fine – I had the ceviche and shrimp with coconut sauce – but didn’t knock me over and I fear may have contributed to my stomach upset the next day.

Biggest disappointment: Boquete Bistro in Boquete – we’d heard good things about this American-owned restaurant offering American dishes and the place was packed on Valentine’s Day with both Latin and Anglo tourists. But the service was very slow – the staff seemed overwhelmed by all the diners – and the food was a pale imitation of the real thing. My Mediterranean pasta – spaghetti with feta cheese, oil, tomatoes, Kalamata olives – had an odd sweet taste to it that totally put me off. D’s tacos were passable – but odd meat. Maybe it’s harder to duplicate American than Italian dishes in a faraway place?

Best restaurant atop an old bus: Bocas Blended – a clever place inside an old bus parked on a corner of a busy intersection in Bocas del Toro. Cheerful young ex-pats – one from New Jersey – whipped up wraps (veggies with a feta-based pesto was my fav) and blended fruit drinks  akin to smoothies known as a batido – inside the bus and served them at counters tacked onto the sides of the bus and atop the bus at a small table with four chairs (the food was lifted up by a rickety pulley) that had a good view of the town and the ocean beyond. Also good homemade lemonade made with bits of mint.

Best Breakfast and view: at Cocomo B&B on Bocas del Toro (fresh pineapple, a wide selection of homemade entrees from omelettes and soft-boiled eggs to french toast and pancakes) on the open air deck overlooking the Caribbean.

Other good breakfast with a view: A spread laid out for the Iowa farmers we initially traveled with at the Vistors Center overlooking the Miraflores Locks on the Panama Canal. Very good french toast. (And a nice break from some very mediocre breakfasts we had at two pricey resorts that should have known better.)

Worst service/best fish: The Reef in Bocas del Toro. We waited over an hour at this busy restaurant where again the staff seemed both overwhelmed and at times inept. Fortunately the view – from an open air deck on the water – was lovely and the fish and lobster (although very small portion) was well-prepared when it finally arrived.

Others:

– Tammy’s in Boquete – an Israeli-run place with good hummus, okay rotisserie chicken and patacones (disks of fried plantain that were too dry and seasonless for me. I’ll stick with french fries.)

– Central Park in Boquete – overlooking the main square. Good fry bread, s0-so scrambled eggs

– Shalom Bakery in Boquete – sorry, the bagel was a pale imitation of the real thing but the cinnamon roll got a thumb’s up from D

–  Mr. Douglas’ Golden Grill in Bocas Town – good ice cream that hit the spot after a hot day on the beach

– Cafe at Red Frog Beach on Isla Bastimentos (Bocas) –  the chips were good. The salsa turned out to be not the tomato-based dip we expected but a tangy mayonaise-based one.

– The restaurant terrace at La Coralina hotel, a lovely hotel on Isla Colon (a short bike ride along the beach from Bocas town near Bluff Beach)  – great views and the best craft shop we saw anywhere!

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Tucson – for future reference

For the second year in a row, we haven’t taken our annual trip to Tucson to see my dad – just got pulled in different directions. But my brother and his wife are there and report that they’ve found a good new cheap Mexican restaurant – BK’s – downtown – which specializes on Sonora Hot Dogs and Carne Asada (neither of which sound great right now as I’m still recovering from dining in Panama). They also were looking for a hike we did together four years ago and report that the trail head is – as we thought – just north of AJ’s fancy food market on Campbell and East Skyline Drive.

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Filed under DINING, hiking, Tucson

Sick from Panama trip

A week ago – in Panama City – I was battling stomach upset that I dubbed “Noriega’s revenge” – kind of reminded me of colonoscopy prep, enough said. But throughout the trip, I was staving off a vague headache, dizziness, and nausea. Oddly, or maybe not, that second batch of symptoms hit me hard about midday yesterday – after several days of feeling just fine. So yesterday I took to bed and spent hours trying to get my room to stop spinning. Today, I’m better but still wobbly. D. had something similar – that didn’t last as long but unfortunately marred dinner for him at the best restaurant we went to during our trip (La Posta – more on that later.) Several other people in our group got ill, ranging from the serious (a bacterial infection that sent one woman to the hospital; a diarrhea bout for one man that his doctor thinks was due to a parasite) to not-so (a little vomiting.)

The big issue in Panama and other Central and South American countries is dengue fever but from what I can tell from reading the symptoms, that’s not what D or I had. D did have a fever and some mosquito bites (which is how you get Dengue fever) but I didn’t. I did read that as of Jan. 17, Panama now offers all tourists free  emergency health care – as an incentive to boost tourism – and maybe that’s more useful than I realized. It’s good for the first 30 day of travel and includes top-level coverage during emergencies (although I see that it doesn’t cover accidents caused by extreme sports – so guess if I’d had a mishap while zip-lining I’d be out of luck…)

.

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the maps for foodies – MAPPETITE

Cool idea that I heard about on NPR’s “The Splendid Table” – MAPPETITE, which offers maps of  – to date, London, NYC and San Francisco – that highlight good restaurants in various neighborhoods. My brother could easily do the NYC map – I have long depended on him to find me a restaurant at a minute’s notice and he’s never failed (Case in point: Last Thanksgiving, when I texted him from MOMA saying “need cheap, good, place to eat near Moma” and he found us “La Bonne Soupe” around the block!) Anyway, check out MAPPETITE’s website for more details.

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Filed under DINING, London, New York City

bye bye Bocas

Bye Bye Bocas

By betsyrubiner

Having a knowledgable generous b&B owner is a great thing – and that’s what Douglas, the owner of  the lovely Cocomo on the Sea B&B in Bocas del Toro was like.  He not only patiently answered my questions about where to eat and what to do – but took the time to really fill us in, giving us several options. This morning, after a delicious breakfast with four other guests (three who were Russian, another from Connecticut), he invited us into his living room – of sorts, a breezy room overlooking the ocean filled with antiques and knicknacks from various adventures, put on a little Billie Holiday and discussed our options. Then he rode his bike into town to find us a water taxi driver and minutes later, the boat pulled up to the dock at the B&B and off we went speeding across the ocean to a neighboring island with the beautiful Red Frog Beach. There we met a trim enthusiastic yank in a golf cart who offered to drive us to the beach which was only an eight minute walk away from the marina (which had nothing but boats and a welcome desk where we gladly paid $3 entrance fee). She showed us another beach just beyond Red Frog (Turtle beach)  that was even lovelier than Red Frog – and we had all to ourselves for awhile. She was a former Minnesotan who now works at a resort on the island we were visiting – doing massages and yoga and she’s also a “fire dancer” who performed recently for Jimmy Buffet when his boat passed through. these are the kind of people you meet in places like Bocas and it’s fun – and of course makes you question your choices and in my case why I didn’t take the next big step after world wandering — by becoming a bonafide ex pat.

More later – we’ve just landed at a mediocre hotel in panama city that we picked because it was cheap and near the airport which we fly out of tomorrow to return home. But first, one last dinner in Panama City – at La Posta.

This entry was posted on February 17, 2011 at 12:12 am and is filed under Uncategorized. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site. Edit this entry.

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Yes, we’re still in Panama

sorry for the gap in blogging – didn’t have internet access at our lodging in Boquete and just got it here in Bocas Del Toro. We spent three days in Boquete at a coffee plantation high high high on a mountain overlooking a gorgeous valley and adjacent mountain range. Will blog more when have more time. Today, within three hours drive, we were in a completely different world, the afro-caribean beach town of Bocas Del Toro. last night  I was cold when I went to bed. Tonight, I’m hot. Competely different scene as well.

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