Fabulous signs along Highway 6 in central Iowa (Grinnell, Brooklyn, Ladora…)

What struck me most as we drove east from Grinnell along Highway six through several  small Iowa towns  in central Iowa last Saturday was the remarkable collection of well-preserved old business signs, several neon, adorning store fronts. It felt like we were on the set of “Back to the Future.”  Below is one of my favorites in Brooklyn, Iowa. (You have to drive off the highway and go into town to see it.) It’s a wonderful old creme-colored tile building decorated with vintage letters that spell out: Service Standard Oil Products.

A highlight in Brooklyn, Iowa

Downtown Grinnell also is full of great old signs – the big bright red letters on the curved marquee of the restored Strand Theater which still shows movies; the blue neon sign outside the Danish Maid Bakery on 4th street (opened in 1945 and famous for its “creme-filled coneys”) ;  the glass tile blocks spelling out Grinnell, Iowa on the facade of  an old department store that is now a bike shop, Bikes to You on Broad Street; the plain old-fashioned lettering of the sign outside the local newspaper, the Herald-Register. There’s also an old 1930s brick gas station complete with the old pumps – that now houses a 1950’s style soda fountain called Candyland Station and serves $3 sundaes.  It’s at 831 West Street.  The most remarkable building of all is the famous Jewel-Box Bank, designed by Louis Sullivan.

Past Brooklyn, on two-lane Highway 6 we drove through Ladora, Iowa – and a sign for the amusingly named convenience store, the Ladora Stora. (Geddit?) and then the old neon sign for a garage “York and Sons” that looked like the garage in The Great Gatsby. Also appreciated the neon sign outside the Sudbury Court, lighting up the roadside motel on a dark winter night.

 

Betsy outside Brooklyn (iowa)

 

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off to grinnell and mount vernon iowa!

We are having the most unseasonably warm winter I can recall – which I know is ultimately not a good sign of our environmental health but it’s sure helping my mental health. So we’re off on a road trip, driving about an hour east to Grinnell College to see an exhibit by a guy who’s illustrating an “American Quran.” Afterwards, we’re driving about 45 minutes (I think) further east to Mount Vernon, a pretty little town that’s home to Cornell College and to one of our favorite restaurants in Iowa – the Lincoln Cafe. The cafe doesn’t take reservations – and it’s always busy on Saturday nights but one trick – which we’ll use – is to call at 5 p.m. and put our name on the waiting list.  The nearby winebar is closed for renovations – apparently it’s being spruced up for, among other things, live music.

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great way to find dance performances in chicago!

Whenever I’m contemplating a trip to Chicago, I always look ahead to see if  my two favorite dance companies there – Hubbard Street and the Joffrey – are performing. Short of that, I look to see if any visiting troupes will be in town the same time I’m there. Now I’ve founda  handy website that lists all the dance happenings in one spot! http://seechicagodance.com

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Great recommendations for next trip to St. Louis!!

My stepdaughter E had a great time recently in St. Louis. Here are her recommendations/impressions!

  • – a stay at the Renaissance, formerly the Statler, which is the oldest hotel in downtown St. Louis.
  • – Downtown St. Louis is beautiful with 200 year old buildings that looked like they haven’t been touched.  We walked into the train station, an Art Nouveau masterpiece, and I was astounded at how well it had been preserved.
  • – Drive around the Soulard,  the old French district.  It is extremely similar to New Orleans and in fact, we just missed the big Mardi Gras celebration going on this weekend.  Soulard has lots of cute blues and jazz bars.
  • – We went to a great Thai restaurant, The King and I in the Tower Grove neighborhood.  Grand in Tower Grove seems to have a long strip of ethnic restaurants, Ethopian, Middle Eastern, Korean, etc, all in a row.  After dinner we went to the Gelateria del Leone where they had homemade gelato and coffee. It was outstanding.
  •  -On Monday, we tried to go to a cafe in Lafayette Square, but unfortunately it was closed.  Lafeyette Square has big beautiful houses that are probably from around the late 19th century.
  • –  lunch at Pappy’s Smokehouse, in Midtown, near SLU, known for the brisket.  It was some solid BBQ, but the best thing was probably the fried corn on the cob.  It tasted like popcorn.
  • – We drove around the Central West End, near Forest Park, where private gated drives were filled with century old mansions.  We stopped in a mystery book store called the Big Sleep.
  • – We finished the day in a new trendy area called Cherokee.  We had some serious mochas ( a hot chocolate drink) at the Mudd Cafe on Cherokee street (the food looked really good too).  The  street was lined with vintage shops and serious taco stands that I definitely want to hit up when I go back.

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About that Sufi sheikh I met in Istanbul…

About that sheikh I met in Istanbul – he was a Sufi Dervish (not exactly a whirling dervish but related, I think). Here’s some info I found when I googled him, including  a 1982 NYTimes story (It also refers to his followers’ mosque in Soho, which I visited. Wonder if it’s still there…).

The wikipedia entry even mentions his book store in Istanbul! And I found several photos  and an interview with him on youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hAyD9awfQjY. (The internet is an amazing thing…)

wikipedia

Muzaffer Ozak (1916 – February 12, 1985) was one of the head sheikhs of the HalvetiJerrahi order of Dervishes, a traditional muslim Sufi order (tarika) from Istanbul (Turkey). In western countries he is well known because of his visits to Europe and the United States of America where he celebrated public dhikrs (Remembrance of God; in Turkish “zikrullah”) with his dervishes. He is also well known in Turkey for his “ilahis,” religious Sufi hymns. The Halveti-Jerrahi Sufi Order is named for him. Ozak also ran a bookstore in the Sahaflar Çarşısı in Istanbul.

MUSIC: THE SUFI DERVISHES

By JOHN ROCKWELL
Published: April 28, 1982

ANNUALLY since 1978 the priests, chanters, musicians and dancers of the Sufi dervishes of the Halveti-Jerrahi order from Istanbul have presented their communal ceremony of the ”dhikr” at the Cathedral of St. John the Divine. So popular have these admission-free mystical Islamic cermonies become, and so magnetic seems the order’s leader, al-Hajj Sheikh Muzaffereddin Halveti al-Jerrahi, that a mosque for the order has been established in SoHo, reflecting the strong appeal that this particular sect has for the city’s artists.

This spring’s visit – another tour is planned for October – was confined to one local performance. Despite a rainy night, several hundred people turned up Monday at the cathedral, and their participation was so eager that one wondered if the spacious floor of the cathedral could have comfortably accommodated many more.

The dhikr lasted two hours. There was some 45 minutes of music – a chanted prelude, the formal entrance of the main body of the dervishes, then chanting by the sheikh and solo cantors with communal responses from the 40 male dervishes (24 women huddled subserviently at the side). Gradually the music built in intensity and evolved into dance, with instrumental and chanted accompaniment, and finally members of the audience were invited to join, too, forming concentric circles around the sheikh and the dervishes, everyone spinning and swaying and chanting.

For veterans of participatory art events of the 1960’s, all of this seemed familiar. But it must be remembered that the 60’s communalists were inspired by ceremonies of this sort, rather than the other way around. On a purely esthetic level, the echoic vastness of the cathedral made an impressive setting for the ceremony. But this was a ritual that transcended pure art, or more properly restored to art its functional links to the spiritual life of the ”artists” involved, which in turn may explain this order’s appeal to artists, shaken in their faith in their own usefulness.

Perhaps that restoration is more imagined than real: the dhikr is a ”ritual of remembrance,” ostensibly of God but maybe also of the lost power of art literally to transform souls. Looked at this way, through secularized Western eyes, it takes on an unintended poignance. But poignance, too, can be the stuff of meaningful art.

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a few St. Louis ideas

A few St. Louis ideas, by request:

– The last two times I went, we spent most of our time around Wash U. and went to a Cardinals game.

– I went to the old garden district one very hot sweltering day for lunch.

– then there’s the arch of course. and a new-ish downtown sculpture garden near by.

–  The beer garden (Busch beer) we went to was at Grant’s Farm but doesn’t appear to be open until april: http://www.grantsfarm.com/TheBauernhof.htm

– fun fact re The Hill neighborhood (italian) in St. Louis (which I haven’t been to):
“It’s so crowded nobody goes there anymore.” This was said by Yogi Berra about Ruggeri’s (a Hill neighborhood restaurant) where he and Joe Garagiola had worked as waiters, which had become so popular that his old friends couldn’t get in anymore.

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A NYC restaurant that warms my Azkenazi heart!

When I used to work in a newsroom, once a year – right around Passover – I’d issue a blanket warning to my non-Jewish podmates: I will be eating something that looks really disgusting. But I like it – in small portions and only this time of year – so deal with it. It’s called (you guessed it) gefilte fish.

So news of a new restaurant in NYC, Kutsher’s, that makes its own gefilte fish automatically caught my attention (especially since I eat the non-homemade fish that’s packed in a jar, entombed in a grey-yellowish  jellied consume.) The NYTimes reviewer didn’t particularly like the restaurant’s gefilte fish but he gave a thumbs up to other eastern European Jewish favorites of mine like Kreplach soup and matzoh ball soup…so next time I’m in Tribeca (I was there last in September) I’ll try to find the restaurant – Kutsher’s (the owner is connected to the  famous faded Kutsher’s resort in the Catskills.) To see what I”m talking about check out:


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Austin suggestions

My stepdaughter is looking for suggestions for a trip to Austin, Tx. I only spent a day there a few years ago but here’s what I’ve got:

– the funky old Hotel San Jose – right across from The Continental, a great music club we did manage to visit during our 5 hours in Austin.  Another one of her hotels that sounds fun is the Hotel Saint Cecilia. This is all along South Congress, I think, which is a fun area.

–  one-of-a-kind bbq restaurant,  Kreuz market in Lockhart, Tx., aka the self-anointed BBQ capital of texas, (a short drive from Austin…but there are plenty of places in Austin too. http://www.kreuzmarket.com. You order the BBQ by the pound in a room so smokey it made my eyes burn, then take your brown paper-wrapped meat into a much less smokey room where you eat it – without sauce or a fork, as I recall. And you’re supposed to eat it with crackers (we chose bread) and red cherry pop.

– The original Whole Foods downtown. Supposed to be amazing.

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unexpected trip to dodge city kansas and the cowtown for steak.

We made an unexpected trip to western Kansas for my father-in-law’s funeral, sadly, and I haven’t made it out of the small town of Wright Kansas, where he lived, much. we did have dinner last night at “the Cowtown” – a popular steak house that didn’t disappoint (although next time I’ll have the t-bone instead of the nystrip and I’ll ask for it rare rather than rare/medium rare.) If only our father-in-law could have been with us – a man who sold and bought many a cow, he loved a good steak. And, of course, his family. We miss him.

I’ve left the house for a little fresh air today and may drive over to see the new casino that everyone is talking about here in Dodge. There’s also a vietnamese restaurant called Saigon Cafe that my niece tells me is good.

 

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2012 hot spots: Bocas del Toro and Dominican Republic’s Samana Pennisula

I was surprised to see two fairly obscure places we’ve visited on the NYTimes Travel sections list of 45 places to go in 2012. But I have to agree with them:

#1 was Panama including Panama City and Bocas del Toro. Lower down the list was  Las Terrenas, a village on the Samaná Peninsula, Dominican Republic (although no mention of the cool, low-key place where we stayed in 1990 or thereabouts: “The Hotel Tropic Banana” in Las Terrenas, which I gather from my googling is still there – although place seems more built up than when we visited.) 

Below are the details.

1. Panama
Go for the canal. Stay for everything else.

 It’s been 12 years since Panama regained control of its canal, and the country’s economy is booming. Cranes stalk the skyline of the capital, Panama City, where high-rises sprout one after the next and immigrants arrive daily from around the world. Among those who have landed en masse in recent years are American expatriates and investors, who have banked on Panamanian real estate by building hotels and buying retirement homes. The passage of the United States-Panama free trade agreement in October is expected to accelerate this international exchange of people and dollars (the countries use the same currency).

Among the notable development projects is the Panama Canal itself, which is in the early stages of a multibillion-dollar expansion. The project will widen and deepen the existing canal and add two locks, doubling the canal’s cargo capacity. For those who want to see the waterway as it was originally designed, now is the time. The expansion is expected to be completed by 2014, the canal’s 100-year anniversary.

Other high-profile projects include the construction of three firsts: The Panamera, the first Waldorf Astoria hotel in Latin America (set to open in June 2012); the Trump Ocean Club, the region’s tallest building, which opened last summer; and Frank Gehry’s first Latin American design, the BioMuseo, a natural history museum scheduled to open in early 2013. Even Panama City’s famously dilapidated historic quarter, Casco Viejo, has been transformed. The neighborhood, a tangle of narrow streets, centuries-old houses and neo-colonial government buildings, was designated a Unesco World Heritage site in 1997 and is now a trendy arts district with galleries, coffeehouses, street musicians and some of the city’s most stylish restaurants and boutique hotels.

Across the isthmus, on Panama’s Caribbean coast, the Bocas del Toro archipelago has become a popular stop on the backpacker circuit, with snorkeling and zip lining by day and raucous night life after dark. FREDA MOON

2) Samaná Peninsula, Dominican Republic (although no mention of the cool, low-key place where we stayed in 1990 or thereabouts: “The Hotel Tropic Banana” in Las Terrenas.)


Unspoiled beaches, but not for long.

For years, the Samaná Peninsula on the northeast coast of the Dominican Republic was one of the Caribbean’s remaining natural holdouts, largely untouched because of its remote location. But an international airport, El Catey, built near the peninsula’s base a few years ago and, more recently, a highway that shortened the drive from Santo Domingo to two hours from five, are bringing new development.

Balcones del Atláantico, a RockResort that opened last May in the village of Las Terrenas, is the newest luxury resort on the peninsula. Its 86 two- and three-bedroom villas start at $500 a night, supplying a cushy base from which to explore ecotourism. The Peninsula House, a plantation-style estate with just six suites from $580 a night, was named a 2011 Grand Award winner by Andrew Harper’s Hideaway Report. And Auberge Resort’s’ Casa Tropicalia , with 44 beachfront suites and an open-air spa on Samaná Bay, is to open in 2014.

There are plenty of off-resort attractions, too. Just last month, Bravaro Runners, an adventure tour operator, opened a new zip-line tour consisting of 20 platforms and 10 zip-lines.

Go now, before the crowds arrive. MICHELLE HIGGINS

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