Red sun setting as bugle plays taps (Weko beach), pizza 🍕 in the woods (Haymarket), hard-to-find fav cheese found (Emma Hearth), Cobb salad at Mason jar – Bridgman and Benton harbor in southwest Michigan

Such a treat to visit this lovely corner of southwest Michigan that I didn’t know about when I was growing up in southeast Michigan.

Thanks to my sister for sharing it with us. On weko beach at 9 pm, people dot the soft sand, two paddlers drift in Lake Michigan, everyone is looking west at the setting sun (shockingly red last night, perhaps due to smoke from the Canadian wildfires) as a bugler plays taps.

We have become periodic regulars at p hearth in Bridgman, with great pizza and carefully selected gourmet market fare including Cottonwood Cheddar (from Kansas!) and at Haymaket, easy going outdoor dining with 🐕 in a clearing in the woods, with kids rushing over to greet our dog Millie, tables of friends, an older couple playing cards between bites of pizza. The Mason Jar perks up Benton Harbor (Cobb salad, lemonade, spotty service).

Mason Jar

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Adventure at sea(or in the sound) – Thimble islands, Connecticut

Damsels no longer in distress

I can perhaps be forgiven for humming the theme from Gilligan’s Island as we walked along the dock, returning safely to our sweet Branford abode. The old friends from Iowa set off on a one-two hour tour around the scenic Thimble Islands in the Long Island Sound, when the weather did not start getting rough but our small motor boat hit a hidden rock way out in the water. We kept going without incident, enjoying the scenery, the houses improbably perched on narrow slabs of rock and forest, until we got near the shore and our dock.

The motor crapped out.

We started drifting until it was wisely decided to drop anchor. Then we had about an hour to figure out a rescue plan before I needed to drive to Tweed airport in New Haven to catch my flight back to Chicago. A Sea Tow service couldn’t get there fast enough.

The rescue

Just when I began seriously contemplating swimming sans proper swimsuit to shore (about a 15 minute swim…), neighbors Max Roberts and Jeff Hoyt came to the rescue, towing our boat with their’s. We quickly made it to shore, I did final packing, Nell made me a delicious sandwich, and we added another tale to tell about our storied friendship. And here I am blogging on the plane home, thankful for good friends and good neighbors too.

Thimbles

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RJ Julia booksellers, Comomango Mexican restaurant, The Place – Madison and Branford CT

We had a classic Connecticut gals day, driving around the winding backroads of Yankee shore towns north of New Haven, past historic homes and graveyards, pretty village greens and toney shops. In Madison, we duly visited the fantastic independent bookstore RJ Julia’s , with other stops at clothing/home decor/gift shops and a good Mexican meal at Comomango., which has a beach/surfer vibe and good bowls no small tacos.

Dinner was at The Place (since 1971), which reminded me of a fish boil in Door County, Wisconsin except this was a seafood grill in Branford, Connecticut, with guys tending fires and cooking lobster, clams, mussels, salmon, and corn on the cob. We sat under a big red and white circus tent at round tables with tree stumps for chairs (we went with the green plastic chairs with backs). Nell wisely thought to bring basics like a table cloth and less flimsy paper plates. I had clams with bbq sauce, corn, and a hot fudge sundae.

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stoney Creek, Avelo into Tweed airport in New Haven, Luce Italian restaurant in Middletown – Connecticut with friends

Nell, Laurie and I took a walk in the mist under grey sky though the lovely seaside village of Stoney Creek, past the dock for the ferry to the Thimble Islands that I took years ago when our kids were very little with our Trumbull pals! Stoney Creek has beautiful homes on the water facing a winding two- Lane road.

After picking our friend Holley up at Hartford airport, we had a late lunch at a good Italian place in Middletown called Luce. Hartford airport is way bigger than New Haven’s Tweed which I flew into on Avelo airlines.

It was great flying to New Haven, only 20 minutes from Branford. But note to self: buy seat in future. I had the worst seat – last row, aisle. There were two very large people in my row so I had to shift in my seat to face the aisle and occasionally free my left arm from under my neighbors’s arm. Then no service or drinks, even water without requesting. And people lining up for the bathroom just behind us.

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Pawson Park, owenego beach club/Inn (1847), biking and kayaking – beautiful Branford, Connecticut

Glorious day biking, kayaking, hanging out with old friends from Des Moines and Ithaca. I’ve loved Connecticut since my mid-20s when I worked briefly at the Stamford Advocate (newspaper) in the mid-1980s. (I couldn’t afford to stay, professionally or financially.)

On a muggy morning, we biked around Pawson Park, a pretty, narrow peninsula between the Branford River and Long Island Sound, with the Thimble islands in the distance, with red cedar shingled cottages and bright purple hydrangeas in the foreground. Later, we kayaked in the still water, past large shoreline homes, large rocks in the water, the occasional motorboat, the occasional barge in the distant haze.

Dinner tonight was BLTs from The Shanty, a food truck, eaten overlooking the Sound and The Thimbles at the graceful Owenego Beach club, circa 1847, a lovely sprawling, white wooden building, with a lush green lawn leading down to gardens and a swimming area with white rafts in the seawater. It’s a refreshingly unpretentious and welcoming for a private club. Nonmembers welcome after 5 pm and the Inn offers sweet, affordable rooms for a short stay. see: https://www.google.com/gasearch?q=owenego&source=sh/x/gs/m2/5)

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Michigan Central Station, Avalon Bakery, Bon Bon Bon – Detroit

I was so excited to see the Michigan Central Train Station, once a ruin porn mainstay, newly restored as a hopeful sign. But when we arrived on a Monday morning it looked beautiful from the outside and was unavailable to see inside. Grrr. It’s only open Friday evening and on Saturday. Not as hopeful a sign as expected. No matter, we enjoyed driving downtown to see the latest. Still a mixed bag. Downtown looks great. But plenty of streets look worn out. We walked in the neighborhood around the train station and found Mexican village businesses, derelict buildings, some gentrified spots.

We stopped for lunch at Avalon Bakery near Wayne State, which is part of a block long strip of interesting shops off Cass including City Bird and Bon, Bon, Bon, a Hamtramck maker of complicated little confections.

Around the station

Avalon bakery and neighbors near Wayne State

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Perfect pit stop between Chicago and Detroit- Cravings in Kalamazoo

Thanks to a Chicago friend, formerly of Kalamazoo, Michigan, we had delicious Bahn mi sandwiches at an Asian restaurant and market just off I-94 in Kalamazoo/portage. The restaurant had poke, sushi, ramen, bubble tea and a lot more in a clean well-lit market with a great selection of Asian food. The place looked like a cross between an ethnic market and a high- end grocery store. We’ll be back.

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Freiburg-im-Breisgau —Germany

No, I haven’t made a quick trip to Germany but I was dismayed to discover no blogpost for my visit there a year ago so when I have time, I will try to reconstruct what I did there. I remember it was a very pretty university town in the Black Forest with a medieval square dominated by an enormous gloomy church.there was a great market in the square where I had bratwurst every day for lunch. The narrow streets were lined with tiny water channels and kids pulled little wood boats with a string through the water.

I stayed at a strange old hotel near the square, had obligatory Black Forest cake and a traditional Germany meal that, as usual, was way too heavy. The waitress sneezed and I said Gesundheit…and we both smiled. One of my few German words. I also walked in the drizzle up a steep hill in the park at the edge of town and looked out over the city.

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Italian Market, di Bruno brothers house of cheese, Fante kitchen, Angelo pizza and cheeses take, Bok building, tabachoy, Parc — south Philly

And then came summer. Or close. In the three days we’ve been here the temperature went from blustery 40s to balmy 70s. Today was perfect for a lot of walking south to the Italian market which is actually several blocks along 9th street lined with old food shops and fruit markets.

Italian market

We visited several including di Bruno Brothers house of cheese, whose large selection spanned cheese from Francine and Russ’s London (Neal’s yard) to Myra’s beloved finger lakes (Cayuga blue cheese from Lively Run creamery near Seneca Lake.)

Cheesesteak

We had gooey chewy meaty Philly cheese steaks at Angelo’s. I could eat only half of mine, which in of itself was enormous. We ate outside at a picnic table in an open lot provided by Di Bruno brothers.

Bok building view

The Bok building is an enormous former technical high school, art deco, turned into makers and artists studios and some shops, pricey sandals make out of old Kilims. That sort of thing. There’s a club at the top with an amazing deck overlooking the city. Dinner was Filipino at Tabachoy, which we all decided was a little too odd for our tastes. It makes me question again the NYTimes annual list of innovative restaurants. Maybe a little too innovative for my tastes.

breakfast on out last morning was at the lovely Parc, which resembles a French bistro, overlooking Rittenhouse Square. our London pals checked into the Alexander Inn, an old world, well-located place that was a reasonable $165. Next trip:Washington Square. Elspeth place, walk along the river, old prison. But as is, we feel like we got a good feel for this historic old city that is my grandfathers hometown.

Cheese store

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Pre-Wedding and wedding and post-wedding in DC

We are staying at a great Airbnb on Otis and Holmead in Columbia Heights a few streets north of where Noah lived for several years. The neighborhood is still slowly gentrifying – our snazzy airbnb is one sign, an old brick storefront (we’re guessing) that is now a vertical townhouse with blond wood floors and contemporary furniture and a spacious rooftop deck where I’m lounging on a couch.

The Londoners…and Chicagoan

Dinner was nearby at Trip Khao, a Laotian restaurant. very good. Today Francine and I took the bus to near DuPont circle and the weather was so lovely that we got sandwiches at Call your mother deli and sat in Adirondack chairs around the fountain. perfect dining Al fresco spot.

Going girly

Francine and I got our pre wedding manicure at allure Nails, I lost it briefly at the rehearsal, had excellent pork asada for rehearsal dinner at Mi Cuba and drinks/roast by the couple’s friends at The coupe, where the mashup of people from various chapters of Noah’s life (and mine) was a dizzying treat.

My baby boy is getting married.

We returned to the coupe on a rainy Saturday for brunch and the place was packed. Nice upscale independent market Odd Provisions a few blocks south on 11th for a baguette. The wedding was at the Josephine Butler House, pretty old mansion and worked well for lovely wedding. The day after brush was at the Georgetown Marriott which isn’t really in Georgetown and then a treat – post wedding lunch with the groom/ husband at the duck and the peach in Capitol Hill neighborhood.

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