Good gourmet sandwich shop in Chicago – Grahamwich

Maybe this isn’t a new restaurant category – but lately I’ve noticed a lot of what I’d call, for lack of a better term, overpriced ($10 or thereabouts) gourmet sandwich shops popping up in cities large and small (say, Chicago and Des Moines.) They’re often started by ambitious big-name chefs who are experimenting with offering lighter, less expensive fare. And while the sandwiches cost less than the entrees you’d find in their full service restaurants, they’re still a lot more then you’d pay at your more everyday pedestrian sandwich shop. So it better be worth the price and in my experience, these overpriced sandwiches aren’t always. But I’m going to go out on a limb here and proclaim the sandwiches at Grahamwich – on State between Ohio and Ontario in Chicago, opened by celeb chef Graham Elliott – worth the price.  The two I shared with my stepdaughter (who wanted me to try this place) were each something special: one-of-a-kind concoctions with delicious ingrediants. We had the roast beef with baby arugala, red onion, shoe string potatoes and grainy mustard on a pretzel roll; and the particularly impressive grilled shrimp with black beans, mango salsa, “blistered” corn, guacamole puree on a chipotle tortilla. Also had homemade chips – salt/vinegar and bacon/ranch. This is the second place I’ve been to recently offering a gourmet popcorn as a side dish.

This experience has wet my appetite for Graham Elliott’s other fancier Chicago restaurants, perhaps as intended.

Grahamwich, by the way, is part of a row of attractive old world shops (one is even called “haberdash”) and restaurants on this particular block including P.O.S.H. which has a nice selection of Paris-London-Chicago related kitchen and home goods including lots of pretty vintage-looking china, and Pop, a champagne bar. From the Grahamwich website, which is worth a visit, I see that the building is a Chicago landmark and on the national historic register, built in 1894 as an artist colony, wiht a ground level cast iron arcade. Other things to try at Grahamwich: grilled cheese, homemade sodas on tap, seasonal soft serve, truffled popcorn. okey doke.

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Hubbard Street (topless) and the Purple Pig – Chicago

I arrived in Chicago just in time to walk down Michigan Avenue on a beautiful June Sunday and over to the Harris Theater to see the 3 p.m. performance by Hubbard Street Dance Chicago – fantastic as always. Turns out we’d already seen the third selection, Three to Max,  – or at least part of it –  last year. I recognized some of the music (uno, uno duo tres, uno due tres – and so on grunted over and over at one p0int) and some of the choreography (including being mooned by several of the dancers except this time I wasn’t sitting with my 10-year-old niece). The first selection, Malditos, was perhaps the most striking – including a performance by a topless dancer who frankly was so flat chested at first I wasn’t sure she was a she. But she was. And a very engaging dancer at that.  The second piece, Quintett, had very dramatic choreography (there were several times when I feared one of the dancers would get kicked in the face by another dancer) but the music was repetitive and monotonous. As always I was impressed with the physicality of the dancers – and the difficult choreography they mastered effortlessly.

We had dinner on Michigan Avenue at the Purple Pig which was fun – small plates. Some better than others. (My favorite was the Braised Baby Artichokes, Fingerling Potatoes, Asiago & Salami Toscanaand, surprisingly, the fava beans

Fava Beans, Leeks, Hard Boiled Eggs & Crispy Prosciutto.  I didn’t like the caponata (too sweet) although I liked the bread with goat cheese that accompanied it and the clams were not as good as advertised. But the place had a fun vibe – bustling with people sharing long wooden tables and high (a little too high) chairs. As always, Chicago felt like such a vibrant welcoming city. (I also ate at a good quick noodle place on Michigan Avenue near Millenium Park. Nothing fancy but quick and fresh tasting.)

 

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For future reference: the Wythe Hotel in Brooklyn

I do my best to avoid staying at a hotel when I’m in New York, and have been successful at that thanks to various friends and relatives with spare beds there. But should I have to book a hotel, The new Wythe Hotel in Brooklyn’s Williamburg are ,( my brother lives in Park Slope) looks like an interesting and surprisingly affordable option – starting at $179 a night according to a recent NYTimes T magazine spotlight story – the mini-bar, word has it, stocks house-made ice cream. Can’t beat that. And it’s farm-to-table restaurant Reynards  has a “staff butcher” who apparently butchers “locally raised animals.” How Brooklyn is that? The hotel partners include the operator of the “hipster (Brooklyn) canteens Marlow & Sons, Roman’s and Diner.”

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Pok Pok and Barbuto in NYC; Frontera Grill in Chicago

Thought of  recent dining adventures in  NYC, Chicago, and Portland, Oregon,  the other day when I read a NYTimes story about where top chefs go on the rare occasion when they don’t eat at their own restaurant.  Chef Daniel Boulud goes to Barbuto for Chef Jonathan Waxman’s roasted chicken, which my brother also has discovered. I had a good meal there with my brother and his wife in 2011. Ike's Vietnamese Fish Sauce Wings

Also on the dining front, is Pok Pok NY in Brooklyn and Pok Pok Wing (see photo above of Ike’s Vietnamese Fish Sauce Wings)  on the Lower East Side.  My husband and I ate at the  original Pok Pok in Portland in 2010. (The chef Andy Ricker was named the Northwest’s best by the James Beard Foundation in 2011 so I bet it’s even harder to get a reservation now.) I see from the NYTimes that the two NYC-based Pok Poks have since opened. (Alas, we didn’t have the chicken wings when we went to Pok Pok in Portland. They look incredible! But it was very good Thai food by a non-Thai guy, which was the gist of the Times story. It also mentioned Rick Bayless and Frontera Grill/Xoco et. al.  in Chicago which I’ve been to many times over the years.)

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Hubbard Street Dance in Chicago!!

In a stroke of good timing/luck, my visit to Chicago this weekend to move my son out of his college dorm coincides with the last performance of Hubbard Street Dance Company’s summer series which begins today (Thursday May 31) and ends on Sunday (June 3 at 3 p.m.). The program, as always, looks enticing, including a piece danced to the music from a French film I saw a few years ago.

The HSDC Ticket Office is at 312-850-9744

Here’s the line up:

  • Quintett by William Forsythe
  • Malditos by Alejandro Cerrudo

    Featuring music from the french film “The Beat That My Heart Skipped”

  • THREE TO MAX by Ohad Naharin

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Dining options in Kansas City – branching out to Mexican food!

When we go to – or more often through – Kansas City, we tend to stop at the same place: Gates BBQ. Every once in awhile, we diversify and go to: Arthur Bryant’s BBQ. Or a handful of other restaurants like Lidia’s (Italian). Last weekend, having just had very good bbq in Eureka Springs, we decided to try something different. (Plus both Gates and Lidia’s were closed on Memorial Day.) So we drove along Southwest Boulevard, an quasi-industrial area on the west side that has long had eclectic restaurants and more recently Mexican restaurants and finally settled on El Patron, which turned out to be a terrific choice. We had very good fajitas – the best I’ve had in ages – that included chorizo and grilled shrimp (plus chicken and steak and lots of grilled vegetables) and sat on the outdoor deck upstairs at the rear of the building. We’ll be back! (The margaritas and mojitos looked great – we didn’t try because we had a 3 hour drive ahead, back to Des Moines.)

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Conflicted Thoughts about Wal-Mart’s largesse in Bentonville

We drove some backroads home from Eureka Spring, Arkansas yesterday – starting about 10 miles east in the town of Berryville, which turned out to be more down-on-its-luck than my guidebook suggested. Couldn’t help notice the huge and bustling Wal-Mart on the edge of town – a distinct contrast to the struggling town square business district. And couldn’t help but remember that Bentonville, which we visited Saturday, is the unusual small town that has clearly benefited economically from Wal-Mart – and that’s because it’s not a typical small town but a company town, Wal-Mart’s company town no less.  I can’t fault Wal-Mart  for wanting to make its company town look like the perfect American small town, squeaky clean with landscaped gardens and well-kept businesses,  but it’s a tad ironic considering the company’s reported disastrous effect on so many other small rural communities, where it has been accused of helping to shutter local businesses and suck the life out of  many a downtown.  (For details on the “Wal-Mart Effect” see: advocate.nyc.gov/news/2011-01-11/new-study-wal-mart-means-fewer-jobs-less-small-businesses-more-burden-taxpayers)

I don’t recall seeing this issue addressed at the Wal-Mart Visitor Center in Bentonville – although the center’s displays were more interesting than I expected.  (I was impressed and moved by the display recalling Wal-Mart’s aid to the Gulf Coast post-Hurricane Katrina.) One more question came to mind in downtown Bentonville – why so many law offices?  Granted the town square is dominated by the county  courthouse but still…Are they all fighting the good fight for Wal-Mart?

As for the Crystal Bridges Museum, while there,  I couldn’t help but feel grateful to the Wal-Mart heiress who opened it for sharing her stunning American art collection and vision, free of charge, with us little people. But again,  later, I did start to think a bit about the irony of this high-brow, high-culture palace being funded by the profits of a company whose stores are anything but high-brow, high culture;  a company that has not always treated or paid its employees well, and whose overall contribution to our economy, culture, and society is debatable. High-culture largesse is nothing new for corporate titans but sometimes its hard to decide whether what they give outweighs what they take, or have taken.

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Greetings from eureka springs Arkansas

I hardly recognized Eureka Springs. It was so packed with tourists on this holiday weekend that it was hard to detect its charm. The last time I was here, about 24 years ago, it was in december and the place was deserted.  Fortunately we were reminded why we like this place after we left  downtown with  it’s touristy shops and loud motorcycles . Walking along upper spring street past the lovely Victorian cottages with their long porches and gardens full of hydrangea, hollyhocks,roses and lilies; past stone grottos, steep curving lanes, dense woods; past the strange old  1886 crescent hotel, where we relaxed in white rocking chairs on the balcony overlooking the wooded mountains, I remembered the strange charm of this old town in northwest Arkansas. We are staying in an old motor court in a residential neighborhood. We have our very own one room cottage covered with small jagged rocks. Hence the name — rock garden cabins. Our neighbors are 90 year old newlyweds. No joke. We had a good lunch at the mud street cafe and excellent BBQ ribs at bubba’s and also enjoyed a visit to thorn crown chapel. A stunning glass-walled chapel deep in the woods that was part of the inspiration for the architecture at crystal bridges.

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Greetings from bentonville,ar–crystal Bridges museum. Wow!

We were not disappointed by Crystal Bridges museum here. We were bowled over. It is not like any museum I have been to. The museum is a series of dramatic copper,stone, wood and glass buildings built over a ravine deep in the woods.Everything about it is  impressive. The architecture, modern American art collection, the stunning landscaped trails adorned with sculpture and gardens, the gorgeous museum restaurant with sophisticated  but affordable food, the innovative children’s area (which we adults learned from too). Did I mention it’s all free, including the shuttle that took us from a nearby park to the museum’s dramatic entrance –a tower with a wide view of the museum’s spread out grounds. The collection is varied, impressive and beautifully displayed in well laid out spaces. I saw both familiar and unfamiliar artists work.

We also poked around the very spiffy town square, including the Walmart visitors center, disguised as an old five and dime. It’s where Sam Walton’s first store was and we were surprised to find the displays interesting. Dinner was at aq chicken in Springdale, full of photos of bill Clinton from his chicken eating days. We are staying at a refreshingly nice microtel, a major step up from the awful days inn we stayed at last night in butler,mo. Also had good frozen custard at Andy’s down the road in Rogers,Ark.  Oddly, there is another one in Evanston,Illinois where our son goes to college. Anyway, this is my first post via iPad. Cool. And we had a really nice 22nd anniversary today.

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Off to Arkansas for the weekend

Eureka Springs
Eureka Springs
Eureka Springs
Eureka Springs
Eureka Springs

Arkansas? Yes. Arkansas. I’m surprised by how surprised my fellow Iowans seem that we’re going to Arkansas for Memorial Day weekend (and to mark our 22nd wedding anniversary). True, it is a long drive  for a three day weekend – about 6.5 hours to Bentonville. (Bentonville? Yes. Bentonville). But we like road trips and stopping along the way at whatever grabs our attention. And we like Arkansas. We haven’t been there in over, um, 22 years, come to think of it, but Eureka Springs (where we’ll be staying on Sunday night) is a pretty old Ozarks resort town with old hippies and avid Christians, as I recall.

We’re staying overnight at bare bones motel in Butler, Mo; then driving to Bentonville on Saturday, where we’ll visit the new Crystal Springs, a new American art museum  created by a Wal-Mart heiress that’s designed by Moshe Safdie.  (The museum showcases a reportedly impressive art collection and also has a sculpture garden and nature trails that wind through 120 acres of forests, gardens and ponds.) We’ll eat at AQ (“Arkansas Quality”) Chicken in nearby Springdale/

On Sunday we’ll explore Eureka Springs and splurge on non-motel accommodations, staying at Rock Cottage Gardens, a spruced up former motor court. Dinner options include Gaskins Cabin (for steak) or Ermillios or DeVito’s (Italian.) Several restaurants aren’t open on Sunday including Bubba’s which looks like it has good bbq. Not sure if Mud Street Cafe is open.

We may also stop in Joplin, Mo. en route to see how the city is recovering from the horrendous tornado that leveled a large part of the city a year ago. (We’ve been driving for several years through Greensburg, Ks. and watching it rebuild after a tornado several years ago.)

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