Note to self: when next in Milwaukee – try the Iron Horse hotel

Established 1882

A friend came home from a weekend jaunt to Milwaukee raving about the city in general and the Iron Horse Hotel in particular. (Nope that’s not it above – that’s the fantastic Milwaukee Art Museum) The Iron Horse a boutique hotel in a former 100-year-old warehouse at the crossroads of the city’s Fifth Ward and Latin Quarter.   With its urban chic decor and high marks from the travel industry, it looks like well worth a visit.  Last time I stayed in Milwaukee, about six years ago, I stayed at the old dowager of a hotel, the Pfister, which was a little bit frumpy but interesting and near the lively historic Third Ward district. I see online that there’s a $259 package at the Iron Horse  that includes tickets to the fantastic Milwaukee Art Museum, inside a whimsical building  designed by Santiago Calatrava, and the new Harley-Davidson Museum. One thing I didn’t realize about the museum, which resembles a bird, is that its “wings” open at 10 a.m. daily (when the museum is open), close and reopen at noon and close at 5 p.m. (8 pm on Thursdays). Now that I’d like to see! (Below is the new building he’s designed for NYC’s World Trade Center site – didn’t realize he’s doing that.)

Path Terminal

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Touring Iowa’s beautiful barns

The NYTimes travel section had a good story with great photos last week of barn touring in northeast Iowa around Decorah, one of my favorite Iowa cities. Here’s some tips on how/where to do it:

– The annual Iowa Barn Foundation All-State Barn Tour is scheduled this year for Sept. 22 and 23. (see: iowabarnfoundation.org)

– There’s also a barn tour in the Johnson county-Iowa City area on June 23 and 24.

– Stone-Haus Farm, a 165-year-old Norwegian farmstead in northeast iowa near Waukon, will soon be available for vacation rentals. (stonehausfarm.com) Photos below!

StoneHaus Farm

The NYTimes travel section had a good story with great photos last week of barn touring in northeast Iowa around Decorah, one of my favorite Iowa cities. Here’s some tips on how/where to do it:

– The annual Iowa Barn Foundation All-State Barn Tour is scheduled this year for Sept. 22 and 23. (see: iowabarnfoundation.org)

– There’s also a barn tour in the Johnson county-Iowa City area on June 23 and 24.

– Stone-Haus Farm, a 165-year-old Norwegian farmstead in northeast iowa near Waukon, will soon be available for vacation rentals. (stonehausfarm.com)

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Avoiding the overpriced toll roads into Chicago from Iowa – how I avoided I-88

I used to drive from Iowa to Chicago on Interstate 88 through Illinois but not any more. The tolls (especially for drivers paying cash vs. using ipass) have gotten way too high, reaching $10.20 this year. (I used a handy online toll calculator, http://www.illinoistollway.com/tolls-and-i-pass/toll-information/trip-calculator, to confirm that it would have cost me $10.20 to use I-88 between western Illinois and Chicago.)

On the way to Chicago, I drove Interstate 80 which has no tolls (in Illinois at least) although it does have a lot of road construction. But on the way back to Iowa, I had to stop off at my sister’s in Oak Park – which is closer to I-88. So the trick was: how to get to I-80 without adding too much time to my trip or paying too many tolls en route. I’m not sure I succeeded ultimately but here’s what I did: I took I-88 a few miles (paying $1.50 for the privilege) then took 355  for a few miles, which also turned out to be a toll road so I shelled out another $1.90. Then I took 355 to Interstate 55 and then to Interstate 80. Ultimately, I did save money on tolls (about $6.80)  but I  lengthened my trip slightly (by about 20 minutes, I think) and ultimately paid a little more for gas.

This is good information to have since the tolls will continue to rise in coming years, according to recent news reports, showing that they rose by 40 percent on Jan. 1, 2012 and are scheduled to rise by 10 percent each year in 2013 and 2014. argh.

I have a built-in defensive mechanism that allows me to promptly forget how much I pay for things, so I don’t wig out about all the expenses I face. Still I knew for a fact that the tolls had risen because before I didn’t really notice them but now I do, i.e. it’s the difference between repeatedly throwing a couple of quarters and dimes into a toll booth collection net and handing over a couple of bucks each time.

 

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Searching for a bed and breakfast in Washington DC – think I found one!

At the last minute, I needed to find one night’s accommodation in D.C. and none of my options looked very attractive – either too expensive/fancy or too inexpensive/shabby. I have a good deal for two nights at a hotel in Bethesda via Expedia – $103 a night (which I got in part by pre-paying way in advance) but a third night jumped up to $240. So I started looking for bed and breakfasts and I think I’ve found a good option: The Intown Uptown Inn in Upper Northwest D.C. (and their prices are even going DOWN in July.) Another attractive, albeit pricier option, was the The Woodley Park Guest House but I had trouble getting a room for just night.

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New Orleans restaurant to try

The back story on this restaurant is a bit disturbing but Boucherie sounds like a good place to eat in New Orleans.  The chef was shot three times during an attempted robbery, managed to survive and locals rallied to support him and his restaurant which is in the Carrollton neighborhood, where we’re staying.

According to a recent NYTimes story, Boucherie serves “moderately priced, beautifully plated food in a converted wooden house in the Carrollton District” with specialties including ” boudin balls, luscious pork belly served with sweet potato latkes and crème fraîche flavored with Vietnamese 5 spice powder,  blackened shrimp with grit toast, Intense smoked Wagyu beef brisket and mild, subtly sweet local redfish. Think I’d skip the  Krispy Kreme bread pudding.

Boucherie, 8115 Jeannette Street, New Orleans; (504) 862-5514; boucherie-nola.com. Dinner for two, without drinks, is about $50. Open lunch and dinner, Tuesday to Saturday.

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Good gourmet sandwich shop in Chicago – Grahamwich

Maybe this isn’t a new restaurant category – but lately I’ve noticed a lot of what I’d call, for lack of a better term, overpriced ($10 or thereabouts) gourmet sandwich shops popping up in cities large and small (say, Chicago and Des Moines.) They’re often started by ambitious big-name chefs who are experimenting with offering lighter, less expensive fare. And while the sandwiches cost less than the entrees you’d find in their full service restaurants, they’re still a lot more then you’d pay at your more everyday pedestrian sandwich shop. So it better be worth the price and in my experience, these overpriced sandwiches aren’t always. But I’m going to go out on a limb here and proclaim the sandwiches at Grahamwich – on State between Ohio and Ontario in Chicago, opened by celeb chef Graham Elliott – worth the price.  The two I shared with my stepdaughter (who wanted me to try this place) were each something special: one-of-a-kind concoctions with delicious ingrediants. We had the roast beef with baby arugala, red onion, shoe string potatoes and grainy mustard on a pretzel roll; and the particularly impressive grilled shrimp with black beans, mango salsa, “blistered” corn, guacamole puree on a chipotle tortilla. Also had homemade chips – salt/vinegar and bacon/ranch. This is the second place I’ve been to recently offering a gourmet popcorn as a side dish.

This experience has wet my appetite for Graham Elliott’s other fancier Chicago restaurants, perhaps as intended.

Grahamwich, by the way, is part of a row of attractive old world shops (one is even called “haberdash”) and restaurants on this particular block including P.O.S.H. which has a nice selection of Paris-London-Chicago related kitchen and home goods including lots of pretty vintage-looking china, and Pop, a champagne bar. From the Grahamwich website, which is worth a visit, I see that the building is a Chicago landmark and on the national historic register, built in 1894 as an artist colony, wiht a ground level cast iron arcade. Other things to try at Grahamwich: grilled cheese, homemade sodas on tap, seasonal soft serve, truffled popcorn. okey doke.

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Hubbard Street (topless) and the Purple Pig – Chicago

I arrived in Chicago just in time to walk down Michigan Avenue on a beautiful June Sunday and over to the Harris Theater to see the 3 p.m. performance by Hubbard Street Dance Chicago – fantastic as always. Turns out we’d already seen the third selection, Three to Max,  – or at least part of it –  last year. I recognized some of the music (uno, uno duo tres, uno due tres – and so on grunted over and over at one p0int) and some of the choreography (including being mooned by several of the dancers except this time I wasn’t sitting with my 10-year-old niece). The first selection, Malditos, was perhaps the most striking – including a performance by a topless dancer who frankly was so flat chested at first I wasn’t sure she was a she. But she was. And a very engaging dancer at that.  The second piece, Quintett, had very dramatic choreography (there were several times when I feared one of the dancers would get kicked in the face by another dancer) but the music was repetitive and monotonous. As always I was impressed with the physicality of the dancers – and the difficult choreography they mastered effortlessly.

We had dinner on Michigan Avenue at the Purple Pig which was fun – small plates. Some better than others. (My favorite was the Braised Baby Artichokes, Fingerling Potatoes, Asiago & Salami Toscanaand, surprisingly, the fava beans

Fava Beans, Leeks, Hard Boiled Eggs & Crispy Prosciutto.  I didn’t like the caponata (too sweet) although I liked the bread with goat cheese that accompanied it and the clams were not as good as advertised. But the place had a fun vibe – bustling with people sharing long wooden tables and high (a little too high) chairs. As always, Chicago felt like such a vibrant welcoming city. (I also ate at a good quick noodle place on Michigan Avenue near Millenium Park. Nothing fancy but quick and fresh tasting.)

 

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For future reference: the Wythe Hotel in Brooklyn

I do my best to avoid staying at a hotel when I’m in New York, and have been successful at that thanks to various friends and relatives with spare beds there. But should I have to book a hotel, The new Wythe Hotel in Brooklyn’s Williamburg are ,( my brother lives in Park Slope) looks like an interesting and surprisingly affordable option – starting at $179 a night according to a recent NYTimes T magazine spotlight story – the mini-bar, word has it, stocks house-made ice cream. Can’t beat that. And it’s farm-to-table restaurant Reynards  has a “staff butcher” who apparently butchers “locally raised animals.” How Brooklyn is that? The hotel partners include the operator of the “hipster (Brooklyn) canteens Marlow & Sons, Roman’s and Diner.”

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Pok Pok and Barbuto in NYC; Frontera Grill in Chicago

Thought of  recent dining adventures in  NYC, Chicago, and Portland, Oregon,  the other day when I read a NYTimes story about where top chefs go on the rare occasion when they don’t eat at their own restaurant.  Chef Daniel Boulud goes to Barbuto for Chef Jonathan Waxman’s roasted chicken, which my brother also has discovered. I had a good meal there with my brother and his wife in 2011. Ike's Vietnamese Fish Sauce Wings

Also on the dining front, is Pok Pok NY in Brooklyn and Pok Pok Wing (see photo above of Ike’s Vietnamese Fish Sauce Wings)  on the Lower East Side.  My husband and I ate at the  original Pok Pok in Portland in 2010. (The chef Andy Ricker was named the Northwest’s best by the James Beard Foundation in 2011 so I bet it’s even harder to get a reservation now.) I see from the NYTimes that the two NYC-based Pok Poks have since opened. (Alas, we didn’t have the chicken wings when we went to Pok Pok in Portland. They look incredible! But it was very good Thai food by a non-Thai guy, which was the gist of the Times story. It also mentioned Rick Bayless and Frontera Grill/Xoco et. al.  in Chicago which I’ve been to many times over the years.)

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Hubbard Street Dance in Chicago!!

In a stroke of good timing/luck, my visit to Chicago this weekend to move my son out of his college dorm coincides with the last performance of Hubbard Street Dance Company’s summer series which begins today (Thursday May 31) and ends on Sunday (June 3 at 3 p.m.). The program, as always, looks enticing, including a piece danced to the music from a French film I saw a few years ago.

The HSDC Ticket Office is at 312-850-9744

Here’s the line up:

  • Quintett by William Forsythe
  • Malditos by Alejandro Cerrudo

    Featuring music from the french film “The Beat That My Heart Skipped”

  • THREE TO MAX by Ohad Naharin

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