June 30, 2012 · 5:07 pm

Tips from a friend who just returned from Scotland and Ireland!! Bring your rain gear

Glenfarg Green

Our friends Kathy, Doug and  Conor just returned from a two week trip to Scotland and Ireland and kindly sent along their highlights/recommendations to share!

Kathy adds: If anyone is planning to go this summer, I’d be sure to bring layers of clothes and rain gear, since they’ve been having torrential rain and predicting it is going to be a “summer without a summer.” So saying, even though the weather was generally cool and rainy, we had some nice days and the weather was never so bad that it prevented us from doing what we wanted.) 


SCOTLAND

Edinburgh:  

Bed and breakfast: We stayed at Priestville Guest House [10 Priestfield Road, Edinburgh EH16 5HJ], a nice bed and breakfast with a friendly host, near the University of Edinburgh about a 20-minute walk from the Royal Mile and a short walk to Holyrood Park, which has plenty of walking and hiking trails.
Restaurants: 

* Salisbury Arms, a classy but casual restaurant and bar near the guest house with a nice patio area. 
* Anna Purna, a vegetarian Indian restaurant that was one of the best meals we had on the trip.
* Ciao Roma, a nice Italian restaurant downtown. Had a great pizza for lunch.

Pubs:

* Leslie’s, a “real ale” bar and traditional Victorian pub. 

Sights:

* National Museum of Scotland: Highly recommended, huge and free. Everything from mummies to dinosaurs and quirky timepieces. You could spend all day here, especially if it is raining.

Glenfarg: A tiny village about an hour north of Edinburgh and Glasgow. “The gateway to the Highlands.” There isn’t much in town but the Glenfarg Hotel, a small (16-room) private hotel with a restaurant and several bars that is obviously the place to be in the area. The Saturday night we stayed there the local soccer team was having their annual “disco night” in the basement bar, another group of locals was watching European championship soccer in the first-floor bar, some senior citizens were having dinner in the dining room, and we camped out in the lobby bar to watch the action. 


Drymen: About an hour north of Glasgow in the beautiful Loch Lomond national park area. A nice little village with several pubs and restaurants that would make a low-key base for several days of hiking, walking and touring. We stayed at the Winnock Hotel on the town square, a nice old hotel that catered to tourists (it hosted a traditional music “céilidh” one night we were there), and had a restaurant and a busy bar. We also had drinks and dinner in several restaurants and bars on the square.

Within driving distance:

* Doune Castle: “Monty Python and the Holy Grail” was shot in this well-preserved 14th-century castle. A fun, funny self-guided audio tour narrated by Python Terry Jones addresses both the actual history and the filming. We agreed that it was one of the best castle tours we’ve taken. 

IRELAND

Howth: Scenic fishing village a nice day trip north of Dublin on the transit system. After wandering all over town, we ended up eating fish and chips at a tiny pierside seafood tapas bar called Octopussy, where we had literally the best meal of the trip. We are still talking about the light, flaky smoked fish.
Waterford: We stated at Dooley’s, an old hotel on the waterfront, which had large rooms, a nice bar and the best buffet breakfast we have ever had. Waterford crystal is made here, and there is a display room and tours available. 




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June 28, 2012 · 2:29 pm

Restaurants to try in NYC, San Fran, New Orleans and Chicago

On my flight home from DC this week, I found these restaurant recommendations in the Delta inflight mag, all looked good and all are in places I will be going soon (or have gone recently). They are:

New Orleans – Gautreau’s in the Uptown neighborhood (near where we’re staying in October.) Word has it reservations are a must. The place is dinky. The hot new chef there, Sue Zemanick is 25. Known for dishes with local fresh seafood – citrus-poached gulf shrimp, wild mushroom perogies.

Chicago – Grace, opening in September in the West Loop. Chef Curtis Duffy worked for Charlie Trotter AND Grant Achatz.

NYC and San Francisco – Mission Chinese (154 Orchard Street in NYC; 2234 Mission Street in San Fran) – unusual Cantonese fare by a Korean-born, Oklahoma-raised chef including “kung pao pastrami.”

 

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June 27, 2012 · 5:00 pm

Goodbye Nora/Highlights of DSM Civic Center’s next season


Ephron in New York City, 2010
I am still trying to process the shocking news that Nora Ephron has died – she seemed so young and vibrant, full of life. I sat next to her once at Barney Greengrass, the famous Amsterdam Avenue deli, and it seemed the quintessential Upper West Side experience, eating a bagel with cream cheese and lox with Nora ringside.
Life goes on I guess – but I will miss her essays in particular. I don’t know how many friends I gave “I feel bad about my neck”  but just thinking about it makes me laugh, and now – feel sad.
Now for a complete non sequitor:
I usually try to make it to at least one show at the Civic Center of Greater Des Moines each season but next year I may have to go to two shows: (No word yet on when tickets go on sale for non-members.)

– War Horse, which won the 2011 Tony Award for best play, runs from Dec. 11-16, 2012.

– The Book of Mormon, which won nine Tonys in 2011 including best musical, runs from January 24-Feb. 3, 2013

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June 26, 2012 · 9:05 pm

More DC/Columbia MD – Zenebech Injera/market lunch, Iron bridge Wine Co, Politics and Prose

A visit to George and Martha’s house at Mount Vernon, Va.

Our direct flight from Washington DC’s Reagan National to Des Moines was a breeze – we were home in two hours! A few other treats to mention during our trip:

– We had good Ethiopian food, albeit in spartan environs, at Zenebech Injera Deli  on T street northwest – not far from the U Street corridor which I didn’t explore in full because it was so darned hot (100 degrees) the day I was wandering around. It apparently stretches east of 14th street a bit. (I walked on U Street between 14th and 17th.) At Zenebech, my son and I tried the sampler which was plenty to eat – assorted meat and veg dishes laid out in big clumps atop a large round piece of the spongy bread you use to eat the food with. Not a fancy place – just a half dozen plain tables and chairs, a counter, a cooler with drinks. That’s about it.

– I met a friend from Ellicott City Maryland for lunch near her house at Iron Bridge Wine Company in Columbia.  Nice place in pretty rural setting. I had a good Cesar Salad and my friend the quiche. The bellini cocktail looked great but didn’t want to drink in the middle of the day.

Eating crabcake sandwiches at D.C.’s Eastern Market

– Politics and Prose, one of my favorite bookstores, appears to be going strong under new ownership, which was very good to see. As always, I enjoyed browsing through both the upstairs fiction and nonfiction shelves and downstairs, in the children’s section where I found many classics that I wanted to buy for my new niece including one all time favorite “Ferdinand the Bull.”

– The gelato place we went to on Saturday near the Eastern market in the Capitol Hill neighborhood is Pitango. Fun fact – actor Owen Wilson was spotted at the Pitango in Chinatown on Saturday, according to the Washington Post. I wonder if he had the Crema Gelato and the Dark Chocolate Sorbet (as I did…)

– We squeezed in a trip to Mount Vernon at our kids’ request on Sunday – followed by quick stop in Alexandria for ice cream. Mount Vernon was spruced up since our last visit there maybe 12 years ago. There’s now a snazzy visitor’s center with an introductory film. The U.S. Capitol also has a new visitor’s center with a film. One more visitor’s center in DC and we’ve got ourselves “a trend!”

Wandering around the Capitol Hill neighborhood in D.C.

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June 25, 2012 · 9:31 pm

Leaving dc – intown uptown inn, redwood, sweet greens

We found a fantastic bed and breakfast on dc that was almost too good to be true. And sadly it will bson non because it is closing to the public later this week. It’s the uptown intown uptown inn in the upper northwest neighborhood north of columbia  heights. Gorgeous old mansion, red brick, with wood floors, elegant fireplaces and chandeliers, antique furniture and oil paintings. Beautiful Roos, for sleeping, sitting and eating. Delicious breakfast of double-stuffed potato  topped with scrambled eggs, homemade blue berry Danish. The inn owner sandy is gracious and welcoming, the type of person you want to have your photo taken with as you leave, even though you have known her for only an hour.mshemis renting out the entire three story inn to harvard which will make it available to its alums. Bummer for the rest of us.

We had an excellent dinner last night at redwood in Bethesda. $35 price fix for 3 courses. I had grilled shrimp served with cucumbers, red onions  and a jalapeño avocado yoghurt drizzled around the plate. Then crab cakes with grilled peaches, bok Choy and a light orange-colored peach sauce. Ice cream sundae for dessert.

Today we had a tour of the u.s. Capitol led by a fine young man who is an intern for senator Harkin. He’s also my son. That was fun. The new visitors center is a nice entryway. We loved all the wall paintings in the corridors. For lunch we had very good salads at sweet greens on a strip of restaurants behind the Capitol. It’s been a good trip.

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June 25, 2012 · 3:35 am

Eastern market, a dc treasure

What a great place to spend a sunny, no longer sweltering Saturday in june. We had a great time wandering around the market, sampling and then buying blueberries, peaches and plums at the outdoor stands and then eating crab cake sandwiches at a very popular counter inside the elegant old red brick market building. We also wandered around a flea market with some good stuff, past some interesting shops including one with great Turkish kilims And another with excellent gelato and sorbet (pitanyo?) the market is in a lovely old neighborhood just behind the Capitol with old brick row houses, some with turrets, wrought iron fences, lovely gardens, red brick walkways. I will be back!

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June 22, 2012 · 8:39 pm

Hot in dc but very cool at newseum

I usually last about two to  three hours at a museum but I had To force myself to leave after five hours at the newseum. My first visit and it’s nirvana for a news junkie and history buff. The building is gorgeous, with a spectacular view of the mall from the sixth floor balcony. Too many highlights to list but here are a few:

The 911 exhibit which includes a very powerful film with interviews with journalist who covered the bombing as the towers fell.

The Pulitzer prize photographs including interviews with some of the award winners about how thy got their winning shot, including a former dmregister colleague of mine.(it was fun to see several reporters I know pop up in one exhibit or another)

The selection of historic papers

Variousfilms on topics from women in journalism to anonymous sources.

I will definitely be back.

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June 19, 2012 · 6:36 pm

Where to eat in D.C.’s U Street Corridor

515 Florida Ave. NW, Washington DC 20001 | Tues – Sun 5:30pm-10pm, Closed Mondays

The recommendations are many:

My 20-something stepdaughter who lived in DC says her favorite is Cafe Saint Ex.
This from a friend’s 20-something son who lives in DC:
  • I would highly recommend this one Thai X-ing; http://www.thaix-ing.com/though $30 per person is a little pricey but it’s a ton of foodprix. it’s a small rowhouse with a mish mash of tables (though its gotten more professional as its gotten more popular)and the guy cooks you this amazing Thai mealwhich for $30 and BYOB is actually a pretty good deal.multicourse – the pumpkin curry is incredible”
  • Ethiopian is generally affordable and that area is known for that Dukem is good or Zenebech Injera, which is a little further away.
  • Busboys and Poets is also popular and interesting for the atmosphere but food is meh
The  NYTimes recommends: Local 16 (allegedly a Democratic hangout) and cork wine bar. (see below.)
… Head to the always hopping U Street Corridor, and plop yourself on a stool at Local 16 (1602 U Street NW; 202-265-2828; www.localsixteen.com), a popular Democratic hangout. There are multiple lounges and, best of all, a roof deck, where you can see the city lights while you sip your predinner watermelon martini. A lot of Democratic fundraisers habituate the place, so don’t be surprised if there’s a private party in one of the rooms.Have dinner a few blocks away at Cork Wine Bar (1720 14th Street NW; 202-265-2675; www.corkdc.com), which might have the best fries in town. The owners, Khalid Pitts and Diane Gross, are friends of Barack (well, Mr. Pitts is director of political accountability with the Service Employees International Union, which endorsed Mr. Obama, and Ms. Gross has worked with the Democratic political establishment for years). The menu includes both small and big bites, from marinated olives and cheeses to duck confit and sautéed kale. And for goodness’ sake, don’t forget those fries! They are tossed with garlic and lemon. In fact, order two helpings. Dinner for two with wine, around $60.

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June 18, 2012 · 2:20 pm

Eeking out 30 miles biking the Chichaqua Trail east of Des Moines

Intriguing sign outside Valeria, Iowa

We just managed to get in 30 miles of biking on the Chichaqua Trail, east of Des Moines – riding from the tiny town of Valeria (pop. 62, which may be an overcount) west through bucolic farmland (including surprisingly high corn for June) through the slightly bigger towns of Mingo, Ira (featuring an uncommonly clean, spacious port-a-potty in the park, which believe me, is good to know), and Baxter. We had to ride a little around the town of Baxter in order to accumulate a few more miles, including riding up the hill on the highway into town to the convenience store for some ice tea.

Part of the problem with clocking 30 miles on this trail is that it’s technically closed for repairs west of Valeria. (I’m not sure how far west. When we were on the trail last, in October, it was closed through to the start of the trail in Bondurant.) But even though there’s a big barrier blocking the trail at Valeria, when we were driving home and crossed the trail a little west of Valeria we spotted two riders we’d seen earlier on the trail who appeared to have ridden it west from Valeria. Hmmmm.

Valeria, by the way, has got to be one of the friendlier little towns we’ve ridden through. As we rode up and down the town’s two very short main streets, we were warmly greeted by everyone we passed – including a large group of people gathered in a circle on lawn chairs, who waved at us, and a guy mowing his lawn who stopped to wave and say “Howdy.” We remain intrigued about why – as the sign on the highway boasts – Valeria is the “Town of A Railroad Romance.”

On the way back to Des Moines, we stopped at a favorite east side ice cream stand, Granny’s on Hubbell Ave. That was dinner before we went to see the last performance of “Billy Elliott” at the Great Des Moines Civic Center, which was – as expected – fantastic.

A post-biking treat on Des Moines’ east side

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June 16, 2012 · 8:15 pm

To do list for Washington DC next week:

Ben’s Chili Bowl, a neighborhood landmark in U Street Corridor

I’m off to DC next week for a family get-together to celebrate my sister’s 50th birthday – and to check in on my son who is interning for a U.S. Senator so here’s my list of possible things to do when/if I have some free time:

– Newseum and Holocaust Museum. Never been to either.

– Martin Luther King statue on the Mall and visit to Vietnam War Memorial, which includes my husband’s brother’s name.

– The eastern market/U street corridor (recommendations from a friend who visited recently). I’ve been to Detroit’s Eastern Market but never DC’s. Didn’t know it existed. It in the Capitol Hill neighborhood and sounds like best time to visit is during the weekend market when there’s crafts, antiques as well as fresh produce.

The U Street Corridor is a commercial and residential neighborhood in Northwest Washington, D.C known as the center of Washington’s live music scene with several old clubs, theaters and jazz venues. Ben’s chili bowl looks pretty cool too. It’s at located at 1213 U Street, next to Lincoln Theatre, in the Shaw neighborhood of northwest D.C. It is known locally for its chili dogs, half-smokes, and milkshakes. (I remember photos of Obama visiting.)

The corridor  runs from from 9th Street on the east to 18th Street and Florida Avenue on the west. Most of the area is part of the larger Shaw neighborhood, with the western end entering the Dupont Circle neighborhood. It is served by the U Street Washington Metro station.

– Politics and Prose, a longtime favorite bookstore (that a friend now owns!)

– ellicott city, Md. I’m visiting a friend who lives there. Sounds like the five-block historic downtown is worth a wander.Fun facts: it was founded in 1772 and has the nation’s oldest railroad station.

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