Delights in Turkey

The Gate of Salutation (Bâb-üs Selâm), entrance to the Second courtyard of Topkapı Palace

A friend is visiting her son who is spending a college semester in Istanbul so it’s got me trying to remember my adventures there some 30 years ago. I traveled differently (don’t think she wants to stay at the youth hotel I stayed at) and it was a different time but many highlights remain the same, I’d guess:

The souk and shopping for Turkish carpets and spices while tea served in little cups dangling from a silver tray;  Topkapi palace; The mosques; the antique book shops – and meeting a famous dervish who ran one and gave me as a gift page of the Koran which I promised I’d honor (and I have – it hangs framed high on the wall in my house in Des Moines); the boat ride up the Bosphorus to the Black Sea. Here are a few more cutting edge places from a recent NYT story:

Munferit – Turkish restaurant; Mangerie for breakfast; Anjelique (a nightclub); boutiques around Galata including Nicol and the Grand Bazaar.

Interior view of the Hagia Sophia, showing Islamic elements on the top of the main dome.

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Easiest way to buy a plane tix in Peru – IN Peru

Visa Inc. logo.svgMy son quickly solved our flight dilemma – where we could not buy a ticket online with a credit card for a Star Peru flight from Lima to Cusco – by going to the Star Peru office in Lima and buying the ticket with his debit card. Of course this option isn’t available to those of us who aren’t in Lima but it was nice to know that he could actually get the dang thing. Meanwhile we’re contemplating getting a Visa card since we’re hearing that Visa is more widely used in Peru than Master Card. I don’t know why. For example, I cannot use my Master Card to buy tickets online to Machu Picchu. After finally figuring out how to use the government website I discovered during the third or fourth click that they only take Visa.

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Buying tix to Machu Picchu?

My son has just returned from Machu Picchu and I’m figuring out how to get there! Along the way, I’m beginning to understand why people do package tours to places like Peru. I’m usually pretty good at arranging my own trips – flights, hotels, restaurants, trains, cars et.al. but Peru in general and Machu Picchu entrance tickets in particular have been a challenge.  For Machu Picchu I figured out the train tickets (after sorting through three different rail services, each with several options of trains) and the hotel to stay  in  Aguas Calientes,  the town nearest MP. But  figuring out whether and how to buy the tickets online ahead of time has been tricky.

The official government website http://www.machupicchu.gob.pe appears at first to be useless – thanks to an off-putting advisory translated into barely understandable English that pops up on the first page that suggests you can’t buy tickets online. (There was a problem with fraudulent credit cards, apparently.) The key is to click past this first page to the next page which does offer more hope – even if it’s also hard to navigate. For navigation purposes, I used another  website http://www.machupicchutickets.com  which offers no less than 10 pages worth of instructions on how to buy the tickets.

From what I’ve read, buying tickets ahead is a good idea in general because the number of visitors allowed per day is 2500 (This was done in 2011 to protect the site.) One unanswered  question is whether I need to buy tickets in advance if I’m going off-peak in November. Some people say I don’t. But I also don’t want to make the long trip there (which involves a train trip, bus trip, and overnight stay in a town I would otherwise not visit) and not get into see the glorious Machu Picchu (witness my son’s photos adorning this post.)

View of Machu Picchu from Huayna Picchu, showing the Hiram Bingham Highway used by tour buses to and from the town of Aguas Calientes

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My friend’s new art gallery on NYC’s Lower East Side! William Holman Gallery

An old friend who has a great eye – take it from me, the daughter of  art dealers who ran a well-known gallery in suburban Detroit for many years  – is opening a new contemporary art gallery on New York City’s  Lower East Side on Oct. 4.  For more details see below and check out:
http://www.wholmangallery.com. Very exciting! I got a sneak preview of the artwork late last month   during a NYC visit and it’s terrific!
The gallery also is conveniently located near a good corned beef sandwich at Katz’s Deli – as was my parents’ gallery in suburban Detroit – the Stage Deli – come to think of it. Other dining options I’ve heard about recently near the gallery on the lower east side: Mission Chinese Food (some dishes with bacon!)  at 154 Orchard Street and  Japanese food at Blue Ribbon Sushi Izakaya 187 Orchard Street (Houston Street). My how the neighborhood has changed since the 70’s when I used to go with my grandmother to shop for clothing, at bargain basement prices, on Orchard Street.
 

Gallery News  
August 2012
 
William Holman Gallery has arrived on the Lower East Side of NYC! We are proud to represent a group of very talented and seasoned American and international artists including: Peter Bonner, Anthony Brownbill, John Cunningham, Michael Davis, Nicolette Jelen, Tom Judd, Massimo Lippi, Robert Seyffert, and, Sally Tittman. Additionally, we retain collections from the estates of Olin Dows, 20th century American artist and Carmel Snow, former editor of Harper’s Bazaar.
 
While we ready our new gallery space at 65 Ludlow Street, NYC, 10002 we invite you to browse our website at www.wholmangallery.comand become acquainted with our artists. To stay connected with our latest news, follow us on Twitter @WHolmanGallery! For contact information, please go to: www.holmangallery.tel\

Deep Trees, 2011, Glass Engraving in Light Box, 12 x 12 x 4″

Inaugural Exhibition:
Nine Artists
4 – 30 October, 2012
 
The gallery will initiate its first exhibition season with a group show devoted to the work of the nine artists who will make up our first season. Exhibiting artists are: Peter Bonner, Anthony Brownbill, John R. Cunningham, Michael J. Davis, Nicolette Jelen, , Tom Judd, Massimo Lippi, Robert Seyffert and Sally Tittmann.
 
For more information contact press@wholmangallery.com

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Say it’s not so: Des Moines’ Weather Beacon is no more

Des Moines

Driving through downtown Des Moines last night we were struck by the absence of the famous Weather Beacon – a 500-foot television station transmitter tower lined with lights that perked up the sky above the city, letting us know the weather forecast by its color and flashing/or lack of flashing. (Red meant warmer weather ahead; white – colder weather in sight; flashing meant precipitation.) My stepdaughter E. in particular was fascinated by it as a kid when she used to visit us from Oklahoma. “Does every city have a weather beacon?” she once asked. No – and now Des Moines no longer does either, alas. (Some other cities do have a weather beacon,  according to Wikipedia including Dubuque, Sacramento,Sydney, Copenhagen, Toronto, Istanbul and New Orleans, where I’ll be next weekend. Who knew? See photos below!)

Word has it some genius is designing a computer app to replace the weather beacon but that’s hardly the same. More details from the DM Register:

Iowa lost two treasures in less than two days. First, Wall Lake native and famed singer Andy Williams died late Tuesday. Wednesday, word came from KCCI-TV the station was switching off its beloved Weather Beacon for good.

The beacon was to flicker off a final time at dawn Thursday. Station owners decided costs and upkeep of the colorful icon outweighed the benefits of keeping the beacon lit — much to the anguish of central Iowans who grew up with the forecast lights.

“We are losing a true landmark,” said Bernard Harmeyer of Altoona. “I always looked to the tower to see what was going on with the weather. It made (KCCI) stand out from the other stations.”

First lit in 1960, strings of colored lights at the edges of the downtown transmitter tower for Des Moines’ CBS-TV affiliate gave an at-a-glance forecast on the capital’s skyline.

But the traffic light bulbs used to create the colorful forecast are no longer manufactured. Station officials ordered custom-made bulbs, but the color flaked off the red and green bulbs, which regularly forced engineers to scale the 500-foot tower to replace bulbs.

The tower, KCCI reported Wednesday, was built to meet 1980s code, and any remodeling would have forced expensive repairs.

The Weather Beacon went dark in 1973 because of high energy costs. When KCCI moved to its current location at 888 Ninth St., the tower was rebuilt and the beacon returned in 1987.

Former Des Moines Register Iowa Boy columnist Chuck Offenburger rallied the station to return the beacon in many columns through the 1970s and ’80s. Now retired and living on a Greene County farm, he was ready to sound reveille in the 21st century.

“Occupy KCCI!” he said Wednesday. “Look what other fine restorations there are around Des Moines — the World Food Prize headquarters, the Temple for Performing Arts, Terry Branstad.

“Surely the Weather Beacon can be made over and given extended new life, too, can’t it?”

Sydney

Brisbane

Melbourne

Kitchener

Toronto

Copenhagen

Aachen

Osaka

Istanbul

Fresno

Sacramento

San Francisco

Des Moines

Dubuque

New Orleans

Boston

Flint

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One of top 15 architecture cities….Mason City, Iowa!

Stoney Creek Inn

Front of the Park Inn Hotel (right) and side of the City

People from beyond Iowa tend to find it remarkable that Mason City Iowa has such a treasure trove of Prairie Style homes – by architects including Frank Lloyd Wright. But Conde Nast travel mag is in the know: It recently listed Mason City among the top 15 cities in the world of noteworthy architectural history, according to Wright on the Park, a Mason City nonprofit instrumental in restoring and reopening The Park Inn Hotel, the last remaining hotel designed by Wright.  The hotel plus the Wright-designed Stockman House (both of which offer public tours) and the Rock Crest-Rock Glen residential area, where you can take a self-guided tour of the area’s historic homes including many Prairie Style homes, no doubt won Mason City the same destination nod as cities including Barcelona (presumably for Gaudi!) and Tel Aviv. Word has it the restaurant has opened at the hotel (it wasn’t opened yet when I visited about a year ago.)

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More New Orleans restaurant recommendations


 

Everyone I talk to who has spent time in New Orleans has her own recommendations of the best, classic New Orleans  restaurants to eat and  only seldom do I see overlap from one list to the other, which means I need A LOT MORE TIME in New Orleans than we’ll actually have during our trip next month. But here’s another list of impassioned recommendations – this one from my hair stylist who used to live in NOLA:

But – Irene’s Cuisine is my favorite!! Very New Orleans through and through. Great location (heart of the Fr Qtr), perfect ambiance, and excellent Italian/New Orleans food. My favorite out of those 4. Cochon is great – especially if you like pork. I only went to Herbsaint once, and the gnocci appetizer was the best Ive ever had. Never been to Boucherie.
Here are some of my favorites:
Patois – the best mussels and frites of my life (uptown)
La petite grocery – a very very very good burger (uptown)
Coops Place – a true new orleans bar with perfect New Orleans food and fried chicken that is like dessert. A locals favorite. Decatur St near bywater/frenchmen. Good for lunch. (fr qtr)
Jacques-imos – New orleans food popular with locals and tourists. The best of everything the city has to offer for food. With crazy new orleans ambiance. (Uptown)
And of course Dick and Jenny’s (see photo above). All around good except for the fact you cant make reservations. Everything is understated except the food and the service. (Uptown)
Stella! – fine dining in the french quarter.
Commander’s Palace – Ive never been, but for about $200 per person you will have the best brunch you’ve ever had. Famous for Bananas Foster.

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Unabashed tourists – the Circle Line and Hotel Carlyle in NYC

Interior of Bemelmans Bar in New York City

Sometimes, you just have to be a tourist and so we were on a spectacular late summer/early fall day last Sunday in New York City. Three friends and I took the 2.5 hour lower Manhattan Circle Line cruise and it was magical, with fantastic views of Battery Park, the former World Trade Center area with the 9/11 memorial and the still-rising Freedom Tower/One World Trade Center, Wall Street, the Statue of Liberty, Ellis Island – we all thoroughly enjoyed, even the New Yorker among us. (Next time I hope to take another boat ride I read about recently in the NYTimes that it offered by the New York Society of Architects.)

Later that day, we ate an okay french meal at Le Monde on Broadway near 108th and met an old friend for drinks at, of all places, the Old New York  bar at The Carlyle Hotel on the Upper East Side (complete with a glamorpuss cabaret singer…not Judy Collins, alas, who I gather was singing nearby at the famous Cafe Carlyle…where Woody Allen plays his clarinet in a jazz band on Monday nights…pricey cover charge: $135) I didn’t realize until later that the charming Art Deco bar (photo above) is named after  Ludwig Bemelmans,  creator of the classic Madeline kids books.

I forgot to mention a good place for coffee and a light breakfast I went to with another friend on Columbus Ave. near 72nd Street – Arte Around the Corner (with stick to your ribs croissants) and a good diner for a late Monday morning breakfast (The Manchaster Diner on Broadway near 108th.)

1 WTC rendering.jpg
One World Trade Center design as of May 2012.

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Taking the bus to Laguardia – and nabbing an earlier flight home in Minneapolis

I paid $2.25 (the price of a bus ride) to get to Laguardia airport this afternoon which is much better than a $40 cab ride – not as fast of course, but not as long as I feared. It took me an hour – from the time I picked up the M60 bus at 106th and Broadway to my arrival at Laguardia’s Terminal C – and frankly seemed faster than the express bus I rode into the city (for $12.50).

I had a three hour layover in Minneapolis so of course my arrival and departing gates were minutes away from each other (as opposed to my outbound flight when I had 37 minutes to get from one end of the airport to the other.) Noticing that there was an earlier flight to Des Moines (at 7:15 vs. 9:30 p.m.) I went to the gate for the earlier flight to see if I could get on. There was room but Delta wanted to charge me $50 (which United wasn’t going to do when I tried to do the same thing a week ago in Boston). So I said no thanks but then the Delta person saw that my 9:30 flight was overbooked so she waived the $50 fee. So here I am home – although my bag won’t arrive until 11 p.m. So I guess it pays to ask and stand your ground….at least sometimes!

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Lower east side NYC – tenement museum, Dudley’s, economy candy, pok pok

My friend C.  Is opening  an art gallery on the lower east side of NYC  so we went to get a sneak peek. great old former industrial space, with exposed brick walls and lots of light and wonderful selection of art work (more on the William Holman gallery in a later post) we went on the Irish outsider tour at the tenement museum. I liked the tour I took several years ago there where we got a look at all the floors /cultures in the building, (Jewish , German catholic, etc) but it was interesting to get a more in depth look the Irish . We had a drink next door at a hipster place called Dudley’s, walked around the lower east side dropping in at Economy candy, Russ and daughters, katz’s deli, pok pok (which was more of a hole in the wall than expected but seems worth a try.)

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