We moved to better digs (and no surprise, more expensive digs) at the hotel provincial on Chartes Street. But even here, we were awakened at 2’am or so by a drunken cackle. Seems unavoidable in the french quarter. Room 515 was in an old building that used to be a warehouse. It reminded us of a room we stayed at in Florence – high ceiling, huge, old world furnishings, elegant and a little odd. We liked it. our friends ended up in even stranger digs. they had their own two story condo that is normally someone’s home. again, odd.
We had coffee at CC’s Community coffee on Royal then popped into the central grocery but skipped getting the mufaletta because it wasn’t lunch time. We visited a very good new contemporary art gallery called M Gallery not far from our hotel, then took the st. Charles streetcar (which was a bus ride initially) to Tulane to see our nephew, a happy sophomore there. Ate at cafe ferete. Cute place, so so food. After a swim in the refreshingly cool water of the charming courtyard pool at our hotel, we ate at trendy couchon restaurant – oysters, porkcheek, short ribs,pulled pork with crackling and turnips and pickled peaches. Definitely different. Now taking our chances with frontier airlines. We appear to be leaving. So maybe this flight won’t be cancelled.
Category Archives: Uncategorized
cc’s community coffee, central grocery, couchon, Tulane! Hotel provincial
Filed under airfare, Louisiana, New Orleans, Uncategorized
The French quarter by day and night
I see why people come to new Orleans in October. The weather is glorious and there is more of the same to come. As advertised, our hotel, the historic Frenchmen hotel is funky. The best feature is the courtyard where I am sitting now, beside a tiny pool (I forgot my suit) and hot tub bordered tightly by two-story wood frame buildings with balcony catwalks,painted pink with blue trim. Hard not to yell “steella” from the balcony. This is the best part about the hotel…plus the price $169 for our loft with doublebed and sofabed. The sofabed is the worst part…the mattress feels more like a web of wire springs. I put the cushions atop it, which helped. The location is good and not. Perfect for visiting the music clubs along Frenchman street but as I feared, pretty noisy. Even with ear plugs I could hear the faint sound of horns, but hey, it’s new Orleans. Some partiers even gathered around 3 a.m….on a Monday morning no less. You have to admire their energy and party hearty spirit.
Last night we did the obligatory walk down bourbon street which was particularly rowdy thanks to a saints game. We far prefer Royal and Chartes streets, with their elegant balconied buildings and antique shops and galleries. The city is a visual feast. We had coffee at a nearby bohemain coffee house that seemed to be a local favorite , Envie, after having the obligatory chicory coffee and beignets at cafe du monde last night. We wandered through the flea market, discovered the French farmers market was closed due to a water problem (lots of repairs going on here, mainly the roads. Not sure if it’s Katrina related.) we also visited st. Louis cemetery #1′ where Russ was excited to find the above ground tomb of a legendary chess master, paul Morphy. We tried to eat at Luizza’s by the tracks, but it was closed due to a power outrage so we had gumbo,and po-boys at another famous old neighborhood spot in mid city, Mandinas, which was very good with lots of character. There is a plaque about 12 feet from the ground showing how high the floodwaters of Katrina rose. Glad it survived. We took the canal streetcar bAck which was fun. It suddenly stopped midway and we had to transfer to a city bus due to track construction.
Filed under New Orleans, Uncategorized
Exploring downtown Art district in providence
I never spent time downtown when I last visited providence but this time I did and it was interesting. I stayed at the Hampton suites which is unlike other Hampton suites i’ve seen. It’s in a lovely 1920s building that began as a bank and late became a catholic church. Surpringly charming and very nice staff who took good care of me. I wandered down Westminster AndWashington streets which has some spectacular old buildings that have been well restored, including some terra cotta beauties. There are some interesting boutiques and gift shops and a good independent bookstore and some restaurants that look great. Many were closed on sun and Monday when I visited. Next time. Here’ a few places that caught my eye: trinity rep, Gracie’s restaurant, acc(o) food, local 121 restaurant, craft, modern love (where I bought shoe stylish shoes I hope will prove moderately comfortable), Cuban revolution, another restaurant. I also had a meeting at the hoteprovidence, ananother charming old hotel downtown.
Filed under Rhode Island, Uncategorized
Delano district, old town, Vietnamese-Cajun food in wichita
After barreling down interstate 35 for six hours, much of the time in the dark and rain, we made it to Wichita at about midnight. Did I really live there? It seems another life, another person, another time. And it was 1987. Wichita had some surprises then and it has them now, little pockets of coolness that a come as a pleasant surprise. The Delano district, a five-or-so block stretch of west Douglas, west of the Arkansas river (that’s pronounced aR-Kansas river I quickly learned when I moved to Kansas from connecticut, and don’t you forget it) wasn’t mUch during the late 80s, sort of a poor man’s downtown with nuts and bolts shops, the carpet shop, the auto body shop. There were always a few interesting places that are still there like Hat man jack’s, a great hat store (where I bought a floppy hat for our Peru trip) and the original Nuway, a loose meat sandwich shop. Now there are lots of restaurants,belittle boutiques, bakeries, tattoo parlours. Among our favorites:
Sugar sisters bakery, bike man, Sweet cheeks (for hip-organic chic mommies and babies),la galette cafe and crepes, TJ’s Burger House….you get the idea.
We also stopped briefly at the old town farmers market downtown where a bluegrass string band planned near the cold ales Keen Kutter building, now a hotel. We picked up some succulent plants for a song, at a stand run by a nice transsexual woman,drank some good cherry lime made, entered a raffle for a quilt run by deaf Kansas. On the way back we hope to try a Vietnamese-Cajun restaurant we just read about in the nytimestravel section. Surprise!
Filed under Kansas misc, Uncategorized, Wichita
Take me back to Stratford (Ontario) in 2013! (The Who’s Tommy, Othello et. al.)
Looks like we need to make a return visit next year to Stratford Ontario, home of the famous Shakespeare Festival (and yes, Justin Bieber.) We used to go to Stratford a lot when I was growing up in suburban Detroit – which is a few hours drive away – but it’s been at least ten years since we’ve returned. The 2013 season includes a production of the “Merchant of Venice” (starring veteran Stratford actor Brian Bedford as Shylock) AND “Tommy”, the rock musical based on The Who’s rock opera. I saw a ballet set to “Tommy” when I was in high school in Detroit – and am pretty sure I can still sing most of the lyrics to the opera. Actor Brian Dennehy will star in Beckett’s “Waiting for Godot” which I haven’t read since high school. Also on tap: “Romeo and Juliet” and “Othello.” The NYTimes travel section recently had a story about Stratford and it looks like there’s a lot more there than there was 40-some years ago when I started going to plays there with my parents.
Filed under Canada, theater, Uncategorized
Leaving dc – intown uptown inn, redwood, sweet greens
We found a fantastic bed and breakfast on dc that was almost too good to be true. And sadly it will bson non because it is closing to the public later this week. It’s the uptown intown uptown inn in the upper northwest neighborhood north of columbia heights. Gorgeous old mansion, red brick, with wood floors, elegant fireplaces and chandeliers, antique furniture and oil paintings. Beautiful Roos, for sleeping, sitting and eating. Delicious breakfast of double-stuffed potato topped with scrambled eggs, homemade blue berry Danish. The inn owner sandy is gracious and welcoming, the type of person you want to have your photo taken with as you leave, even though you have known her for only an hour.mshemis renting out the entire three story inn to harvard which will make it available to its alums. Bummer for the rest of us.
We had an excellent dinner last night at redwood in Bethesda. $35 price fix for 3 courses. I had grilled shrimp served with cucumbers, red onions and a jalapeño avocado yoghurt drizzled around the plate. Then crab cakes with grilled peaches, bok Choy and a light orange-colored peach sauce. Ice cream sundae for dessert.
Today we had a tour of the u.s. Capitol led by a fine young man who is an intern for senator Harkin. He’s also my son. That was fun. The new visitors center is a nice entryway. We loved all the wall paintings in the corridors. For lunch we had very good salads at sweet greens on a strip of restaurants behind the Capitol. It’s been a good trip.
Filed under Uncategorized, Washington D.C.
The Beach Cafe- Don Antonio – French Roast – MOMA’s Cindy Sherman
Before the torrential downpour on Sunday, I went to brunch on the upper west side and brought bagels from my new favorite bagel shop in NYC, Absolute Bagels, which were a big hit with my relative – no easy feat. Walked across Central Park in the drizzle, browsed through Peru guidebooks at Shakespeare and Co. books on Lexington and 69th before visiting my aunt. we went to dinner nearby at the Beach Cafe (69th and Second Avenue)- good spagbol and chicken pot pie, comfortable neighborhood spot. Tried to take a bus back to the upper west side but the nor’easter had begun and I was soaked and buffeted by the wind within 10 minutes so managed to find a cab. best $14 I’ve spent lately.
Monday, met my college friend C. for breakfast at French Roast on 85th and Broadway. Nice easy going place. good coffee and oatmeal. Then onto MOMA which was packed with people on a rainy Monday. Was glad I had gotten a tix in advance – there was a huge long line. I also see that there’s a slight discount if you buy the ticket online (maybe $22 vs. $25 per ticket). The Cindy Sherman show was fascinating – and enjoyed the Diego Rivera Murals exhibit. also really like the free audio tour.
Met my brother for a very good lunch at Don Antonio, a gourmet pizza place with reasonable prices and nice ambiance, on w. 50th near 8th Avenue. Then walked up Fifth – didn’t get the madhouse scene in front of Abercrombie and Fitch. I’m told people are standing in line to see the shirtless buff guys who wander around the store. I’ll pass.
Filed under New York City, Uncategorized
M4 bus – UNI QLO – Craft in NYC
Yesterday on a bright sunny day (again!) was baby shower day (the ostensible reason I came to NYC) so I took a very long but scenic bus ride on the M4 bus from 110th and Broadway east across the northern edge of Central Park, then south on Fifth Avenue, hugging the eastern edge of the park, then onto dense midtown where I got off at 34th and walked several blocks further east to 33rd and 1st for the shower. Afterwards, my sisters and I walked along 34th street, stopping at UNI QLO, the Japanese H&M I’m told, which had lots of casual cheap cotton and linen cloths and tons of trendy young shoppers. I bought two t-shirts for $19 each and therefore earned a free ticket to MOMA (which I was planning to go to anyway.) How’s that for a good deal – and an unusual promotion? The ticket is worth $25 so no small giveaway.
For dinner we went with my uncle to CRAFT, a restaurant I’ve long been curious about and enjoyed the scene and the food. We ate family style but instead of big bowls overflowing with pasta, we had very simply presented well seasoned but lightly prepared meats, fish, and vegetables. Highlights were the mushrooms, the steak, short ribs, green asparagus (I didn’t like the fruity sauce on the white asparagus) bok choy, artichoke hearts and for dessert – the little donuts that arrive warm and with two sauces to dunk in; cheese board, rhubarb strudel. (No sign of Chef Tom from Top Chef.) Probably is no wonder I woke up in the middle of the night with acid reflux.
Filed under Uncategorized
Easton’s CarmelCorn Shop lives on!
My friend C. reports that the shop was closed at the time when she visited but otherwise remains in business! phew!
Filed under Uncategorized
Roanoke Island in Outer banks – maybe it’s fate?
So when I googled “quaint, historic, duck, outer banks” (or something like that) to find a place to stay with our English friends, google sent me to some sweet cottages in Manteo on Roanoke Island, which as fate would have it turns out to be the site of The Lost Colony – a 16th century colony of 117 Brits that disappeared mysteriously. So perhaps this is the perfect place to visit with our British friends (a little re-colonizing perhaps) or not?
Filed under North Carolina, Uncategorized
TakeBetsywithyou 