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Minneapolis by bike, the lakes, minnehaha falls, river; be’witched, salty tart, room and board outlet

imagefantastic day riding our bikes around the lakes in Minneapolis. Sure it could have been a little warmer, but it did get up to 55, which is practically a heat wave here and it was sunny, most of the time. We have long wanted to bring our bikes here to try out the nation’s most bike-friendly city, or so it’s been called (although a couple from Portland, Oregon who we met today at our b&b weren’t sure if it could beat Portland.image

must admit it beat Des Moines, much as I am a fan our our trails. These are just so well laid out and organized, with two trails, one for bikes, one for walkers, most of the time – at least on the portion of the grand round trail we rode.

then the scenery! I am still deciding which lake I want to live along, not to mention which of the many mansions and lovely homes. We rode from the lake of the isles to lake Calhoun and lake harriet(which as a very Nordic looking bandshell and then along a winding creek full of water, bordered by a parkway with more lovely homes to minnehaha falls which was full of water that came crashing down into the creek. There were still some very solid blocks of snow down there.image

we rode north along the Mississippi! past the first lock and dam; the frank gehry-designed museum at u of Minnesota ((which doesn’t look as shiny as it once did) and then to the super cool new Guthrie theater with the navy blue cantilever deck and behind it the old Gold Medal Flour mill that’s become a museum. the mill “ruins” park with the shell of an old building is on my list to check out more. We kept riding to the warehouse district and north loop where we tried be’witched sandwich shop (on washington age) and were more impressed with it than last time. Excellent pastrami sandwich and pulled pork sandwich.

We rode back to our Lowrey hill b&b through downtown on Nicollet Mall(good place for cyclists) , stopping to wave to the Mary Tyler Moore sculpture (or Mary Richards) then thru loring park and over the way cool siah aramanji bridge over one of the worlds more confusing intersections, past the sculpture garden and the Walker art center? great and pretty flat and easy ride.

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Burbank, mama hong, The melt! brand Park, Griffith park

The Commissary, Burbank Lovely day in Burbank.  Had morning coffees, quiche, Danish at The Commissary, near the Disney studio, which seemed just Right. We explored downtown Burbank, shopped at a skater shop, Active,  had good Vietnamese food at mama hong, lemonade and grilled cheese at the melt, visited the Japanese garden at Brand park and went on a lovely steep hike up to Amir’s garden, a dense landscape of succulents, in Griffith park. bumped into my cousin Scott and his girlfriend who just happened to be hiking down the mountain, takeaway dinner of middle eastern food from hayat’s kitchen. yesterday we had an easy flight on southwest from Tucson and took the invaluable flyaway bus to van nuys where my brother picked us up and took us to his lovely new house in Burbank.

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Greetings from Burbank

ImageYes we are in Los Angeles, Burbank to be exact. beautiful weather, scenery and my adorable 20 month old niece Lucy. 

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Hiking and dining inTucson.

perfect weather for a hike at Catalina state park in oro valley where we did the challenging Romero pools trail, 2.2 miles each way and lots of rocks, mountains, glorious views.

We ate a much deserved early dinner (we missed lunch, while out on the trail for 4 hours). I had very good carne seca at rosa’s and good pizza the night before at skordatos.

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Coronado cafe, Biltmore Hotel – Phoenix

finally got a chance to see a little more of Phoenix after many years of whizzing past the city to Tucson (and occasionally Scottsdale). we were in the area around the Heard Museum, driving down straight flat residential roads lined with way tall Palm trees, past lovely old stucco bungalows and Spanish mini villas. we had an excellent lunch at the funky Coronado Cafe, which oozed low key charm and served a fabulous crabcake(the owner proudly revealed her Baltimore roots). also excellent key lime pie and fres lemonade. we did a quick drive through the Roosevelt arts district which had some promising looking galleries and boutiques and along 7th street and the Coronado historic district.

Also visited the famous Biltmore hotel, with frank Lloyd wright-like architecture, lovely gardens and a way cool pool.

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Long day at union station…trying to get train from Chicago to Milwaukee

My amtrak train from Chicago to Milwaukee has been delayed 2.5 hours so far. Mechanical problems. hope snow here and there doesn’t further complicate matters. I may have to buy some Girl Scout cookies from the traveling sales kids for lunch. Argh

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Cozy cafe chain not so bad for breakfast at least…

As fate would have it, I happened to eat for the first time at a Cozy Cafe in the Des Moines area (the original one, in Clive) one day before the DM Register pretty much panned it . The breakfast I had was pass-able. The service was very good (it was quiet on a cold Wednesday morning) and I was surprised by the hip cheerful decor.

Datebook diner review Cozy Cafe

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A plug for my aunt’s book of Antarctica photographs!

This from the Wall Street Journal:

Most travelers will never visit Antarctica—and even if they do, they likely won’t see it in this way. Artist Diane Tuft traveled there in 2012 on a National Science Foundation grant to document the effects of ozone depletion on Antarctica’s light. Her gorgeous results are collected in the new book “Gondwana: Images of an Ancient Land.” This is the natural world abstracted—snow sculpted by the wind, folding upon itself; shapes that might be boulders or grains of sediment, depending on where the photographer stood. Though they may feel fresh, many of Ms. Tuft’s shots capture eons-old formations, such as jewel-like air bubbles that were frozen into a lake thousands of years ago. $95, assouline.com

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Oklahoma joes thumbs up

We are breezing down two lane highway 156 towards Ellsworth Kansas on ChristMas eve. Nary another car or soul in sight. The fields are snowy, the sky is a sunless white-grey, the temperature is up to 25, who hoo! Better than the frigid sunny 9 degree weather that greeted us this morning in the icy parking lot of the Baymont Inn in Lawrence (where I slept fitfully on a too soft mattress.)

Oklahoma Joe’s BBQ was indeed in a gas station in Kansas City, Ks, which added to its street cred and quirky charm. (Pix below) The ribs and brisket were, as reported, excellent. On a Mpnday night, the line to order at the counter was long but moved fairly quickly and everyone was in a cheerful, pre-holiday mood. The ribs were meaty and moist, well seasoned, good sauce on the sweet side, akin to Gates. Also had good sides …spicy coleslaw, beans with chunks of beef in them, seasoned fries. We will be back!

This morning we had an excellent breakfast at Milton’s in Lawrence, stopped to get some goodies at the bakery Wheatfield’s (surprisingly delicious rugelah, a rustic rosemary bread, pecan raisin bread) then hit interstate 70 west. man this road is empty (although behind us somewhere are our kids in another car). This annual road trip to Wright, Kansas, this time of year, always feels like we are driving to the end of the earth.

The sky has just turned hazy and we are not sure if there is fog or blowing snow ahead.

 

 

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Snowy drive on I 80 through Illinois

so far we have seen two cars in the ditch along Interstate 80 heading east through Illinois from Iowa but the roads aren’t that bad and we have seen several plows. very foggy and wintery scene. wish I was in the country Peru rather than Peru Illinois.

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