Category Archives: biking

Root River Trail, Pedal Pusher Cafe in Lanesboro, MN  Burdy’s Cafe nearby and Decorah, IA (Topping Goliath)

Peterson, MN

WE finally made it to southeast Minnesota to ride our bikes along the much-touted Root River Trail and it was as lovely (and easy to ride) as advertised– at least the 15 mile stretch from Lanesboro east through the tiny town of Whalan (with its famous pie shop) and the slightly less tiny town of Peterson, where we had excellent pie at Burdy’s Cafe, an unassuming little place with cheerful teenage girls as our servers. The trail was largely flat but not dull. It follows the wide,often fast moving river for the most part, through woods and fields, past picture perfect old farmsteads, tidy towns and wooded stone bluffs.  We also lucked out with the weather, low 70s, sun but cloud cover.

Lanesboro’s main drag was packed with people, cars and bikes but not awful. It’s lined with wellkept old brick storefronts. It’s not as well heeled as, say, Stockholm, Wisconsin or ticky tacky as, say, places I won’t mention.It has a nice local art gallery, a popular ice cream shop and the Pedal Pusher’s cafe, which has a hearty Minnesota vibe (the Norwegian meatballs were already sold out when we arrived at 6 pm). We picnicked for lunch in the city park, overlooking a little pond where people were fishing and families pitched tents. We particularly appreciated the public bathrooms there, at the library, with pay showers (who knew?), where we changed into our biking gear.

TOnight we are 45 miles south in Decorah, one of our favorite places in Iowa, staying at a pleasant and affordable Airbnb ($53) on a rural highway outside town. We stopped in town for ice cream and beer at Topping Goliath, an award winning local brewery. or so Dirck tells me.

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RAGBRAI prep in Kyoto

Kyoto Imperial park (shades of the Brandenburg gate three years ago

Kyoto Imperial Park (shades of the Brandenburg Gate bike ride three years ago)

imageWith the weather making Kyoto even more of a furnace today, cycling was the way to go and it did feel at times like RAGBRAI (The Register’s Annual Great Bike Ride Across Iowa) as sweat dripped down my face while peddling inrelentlessly bright and hot sun. But what a great way to see Kyoto, especially since it is so flat in town (unlike the nearby mountains) and the streets are bike-friendly. Everyone is riding, it seems, young, old, Japanese and not.

We ended up renting (for 10,000 yen/$10 each for the entire day) from a bike shop owner near Sanjo station and the bikes were big and sturdy, 5-6 speeds with a big wire basket. Worked great! We rode to the Imperial Palace, Nijo Castle, way up the river (further than planned since we were riding on the river trail and missed the turnoff street to the Silver Palace and had to backtrack.

When we finally got to the Silver {alace, the place was choked with tourists (which we did not miss while biking) so instead we rode on a country lane alongside the Philosophers Walk, a one-mile or so lovely shady footpath along a canal.  Again, biking made it much more pleasant given the heat. From there we rode near the Goji bridge to a hip cafe in a hostel called Lin that we discovered during our recent dinner at nearby Giro Giro. No food available but I had superb pineapple juice (I am dying for fruit here but it’s hard to find and very pricey when I do…a peach for $4) a croissant and mixed nuts. I did find fresh pineapple served on a stick outside the terrific craft store on Shiro Dori (street) in Gion. Such a fun day, even when we came back to our hotel dripping with sweat and sunburned.

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Ragbrai 2015 – greatest hits….

I rode the last three days (210 miles plus) this year – but my husband and son rode the whole week (500 miles plus)  from Sioux City to Davenport (actually Moline, Illinois, where the Team Skunk bus was parked). Here’s the stuff I (and they) liked the best.

Most charming little overnight town: Eldora – beautiful courthouse and square; Storm Lake close runner up.

Best meal: pulled pork sandwiches at the Masonic Lodge in Wilton, Iowa (Day 7); runner up – Mexican restaurant in Storm Lake (Day 1) and Monica’s for pasta Bolognase in Coralville (Day 6); homemade glazed donuts from Bread Garden in Iowa City; the Skillet where we hunkered down during a rain storm in Mount Vernon (although still miss the Lincoln Cafe there).

Best homemade lemonade: Not the chemical stuff – lemons, sugar, water. outside Moscow, Iowa

Best ice cream: the The Outside Scoop (food truck from Indianola and visits Des Moines weekly!) Best flavor: lemonhead custard.

Best overheard comments:

“I’m kind of leaning towards Walker – he’s the governor of Wisconsin”

“Great shirt – I’m tired of looking at all these bike jerseys” (someone praising my son’s Kafka shirt)

“I used to think this guy I work with from Iowa was such a nice guy. Now I realize after being here he’s not that exceptional.”

Toughest ride/but most gorgeous scenery: Day 5 from Cedar Rapids to Coralville (via Mount Vernon, Lisbon, Coralville Dam.)

Most memorable shower: Cattle wash at the Hardin County Fairgrounds in Eldora.

Awesomely generous overnight hosts: Jim and Myrna in Cedar Rapids (great company, conversation, shower, dinner, bed, tour of revitalized NewBo area and beyond downtown)

Best beer garden: Back Pocket Brewery; runner up: Jackson Street Brewery in Sioux City

Eldora Iowa courthouse

Eldora Iowa courthouse

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Casa de Oro/Perry (Iowa) and bike trail from Waukee to Perry

The bike trail between Waukee and Perry in Central Iowa is about 18 miles – long and straight, cutting through classic farm country, fields of rising green corn, the occasional abandoned see-through wooden barn, a smelly hog confinement operation and a smelly fertilizer plant, a pretty farmhouse surrounded by a white picket fence dotted with orange tiger lilies.  We rode in the late afternoon and early evening – returning just before 9 p.m., with the trail and the terrain all to ourselves. Or so it seemed. The light was stunning. A light breeze. Dragon flies whizzing around in front of us, hovering over the pavement. The sound of birds, frogs and crickets.

We stopped for a drink in the small town of Minburn at a depot that’s recently been turned into a little restaurant and then in Perry for dinner at Casa de Oro (after finding our usual Mexican place, Taco Villa, closed). Place was busy and the fajitas good. We’ll be back.

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Oh happy day: Mullets serving Woody’s BBQ in downtown DSM

mullets2FullSizeRender (15)The second floor open air deck  of Mullets, a cheerful bar/restaurant overlooking the rivers and Principal Park baseball field in downtown Des Moines, has long been a great place to stop for a drink (if not for the food) during a bike ride (it’s right off the trail.) Now there’s all the more reason to stop: Mullets is serving BBQ from Woody’s – the beloved little bbq shack in the Drake Neighborhood. During a bike ride on a perfect spring night yesterday, we stopped at Mullet’s for a half rack of ribs (well-smoked and sauced, a rich reddish-brown crust, meat fell right off the bone) and a pulled pork sandwich (lots of smoked succulent meat). Both excellent – and a great view from the deck of the entire city, with the golden domed state capitol in the distance. Life is good.

mullets

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A bike ride to try in every state! See it here…

For a great list of bike trails to check out in every single state see this:  click here.

The ones in Minnesota, Missouri, Illinois and of course Iowa caught my eye! It does not include any naked bike rides, like the one my family stumbled upon a few years ago in downtown Chicago or the Spanish one in the picture below…(which I just deleted since it was more revealing than originally thought…)

 

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Trout Run Trail, Magpie, sugar Bowl ice cream,– Decorah

Dunn's Spring

Dunn’s Spring

Trout run trail, Decorah

Trout run trail, Decorah

Along trout run trail

Along trout run trail

We have been on a lot of bike trails in Iowa but Decorah’s new Trout Run Trail is the most consistently gorgeous. It is only an 11 mile loop but what an 11 miles.We rode along the rushing waters of the Upper Iowa, past high stone bluffs furry with trees, past picture postcard farmsteads, (the white farmhouse, red wood and stone barn, the black and white grazing cattle), through dazzling fields of tall corn and soybeans and almost psychedelic-green grass.  We stopped at the top of a high hill and looked out for miles across the rolling fields. Later we stopped at a large trout hatchery with pools full of jumping rainbow trout soon to be in Iowa steams.

For breakfast we got lucky at Magpie, a coffee house with excellent French toast and scrambled egg wraps and surprisingly swift service,  given the crowd that arrived. We also enjoyed Agora Arts,  a terrific crafts gallery; the Oneota Community Co-Op, Dunn’s Springs (the closest to Ithaca’s falls I’ve seen in Iowa), Seed Savers, and the Sugar Bowl ice cream shoppe (sitting on the second floor balcony watching the action on water street, the main drag).

sugarbowlphoto (90)

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Day 4 of Ragbrai 2014 – Forest City to Mason City

As you may have already heard, this was one of the best RAGBRAI days ever – or so I’m told. Forty miles. Flat and easy terrain. Gorgeous weather. Very pleasant pass-through towns. And I needed it because I was still recovering from the hell that was Day 3 (80 miles, hot humid windy etc.).

Surf Ballroom, Clear Lake Iowa

Surf Ballroom, Clear Lake Iowa

We started with coffee and excellent coffee cake at Cabin Coffee in Forest City – where we were very impressed with the efficiency of the women working there, who were not frazzled by the endless line of caffeine-deprived Ragbrai riders.

In Clear Lake, we joined a huge crowd at the Surf Ballroom which was open for all to enjoy and a huge treat. I’d never made it past the lobby and was blown away by the retro dance floor and bar full of rock n’roll memorabilia, even the backstage room with all the famous performer’s autographs scrawled on the walls. Way way cool! Would love to see a concert there sometime! (It’s famous for hosting the last concert by Buddy Holly who died in a plane crash soon after with the Big Bopper and RitchieVallens.)

We also enjoyed the festivities and food in Clear Lake (fabulous french toast!) and hanging out in the large grassy park downtown overlooking the lake. En route to Mason City, I had a nice chat while cycling with NPR (No Pie Refused/National Public Radio) reporter Don Gonyea. (We talked suburban Detroit, where we’re both from.)

Cabin Coffee, Forest City

Cabin Coffee, Forest City

In Mason City, we were a bit bummed not to be able to go into the amazing Frank Lloyd Wright Hotel, Inn on the Park, but understand the concerns about the recently and meticulously renovated place being overrun by thousands of cyclists.  There was a line for tours when we arrived at 4 or so but by 5 or so there were no more tours. We did have a drink in the former bank part of the hotel but even then we were banned from the rest of the hotel (even my British friends who likely won’t be be anytime soon). Oh well.

We had pork tenderloins at Suzy Q’s – a bit heavy, as always, but great ambiance. One of those old proletarian trailers with a counter and grill and little else. The Brits did  sign their name in marker on one of the wall tiles! We thoroughly enjoyed a turtle sunday at the wonderful old Birdsall’s ice Cream shop, sitting at the counter on swivel stools.

NO cycling shoes inside the Frank Lloyd Wright Hotel in Mason City, thank you!

NO cycling shoes inside the Frank Lloyd Wright Hotel in Mason City, thank you!

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Day 2 of Ragbrai – Emmetsburg to Forest City

Riding into Crystal Lake, Iowa on 80-mile Ragbrai day

Riding into Crystal Lake, Iowa on 80-mile Ragbrai day

Oh my, it’s been a week since I rode this grueling 80 miles and my memory is fading. What I remember most is being really hot and really tired – after riding 80 miles in very humid sunny weather, often into strong headwinds (especially when peddling north.)

But hey I did it, and there were some sights worth seeing and memories worth remembering including:

– A very pleasant stay with a welcoming local family in Emmetsburg, in their pretty Victorian house – we had real beds in real rooms (right next to our hosts which was a bit odd since we’d just met); their lawn and garden outside dotted with the tents of other riders (including one family from Iowa that operates an orphanage in Haiti and was using Ragbrai to do some fund and awareness raising.)

– Shower in the high school in Emmetsburg – water was a little hot and brought back memories of awkward middle school locker room encounters but hey, we got what we needed: clean. (Sort of.) The best $6 I’ve spent in awhile.

– A pretty and unexpected little lake in downtown Emmetsburg.

Gruis Recreational Center – a pretty rural oasis and I had a great burger, packing up some calories to burn during my next grueling 15 mile ride.

– Some of the best peaches I’ve ever tasted – sold to me by some little kids at a stand in front of a pretty farm house next to the rural center – I was invited to pick some raspberries (free!) but too tired to do.1762

Crystal Lake, Iowa – never heard of this place. Very pretty little town on a little lake.

– Superb pancakes and sausages eaten in the front yard of someone’s farm, served up by a local church, somewhere near Ringsted, I think And excellent rhubarb pie a few hours later at the American Legion, I believe it was, in Bancroft. Liked the town of  Titonka, Iowa.

– Discovering why people were biking jerseys (my cotton sleeveless shirt loaded up with sweat and left me a hot itchy rash).

1768

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Ragbrai 2014 Day 2 Okoboji to Emmetsburg highlights

    1.  

Playing catch-up here, after returning to Des Moines from three days of riding RAGBRAI. I had a good excuse for not posting – cellphone didn’t work much of the trip, the system was overwhelmed by the thousands of Ragbrai riders passing through various small towns.

We had a great three days of riding. In Okoboji, we stayed at a beautiful home with friends on West Okoboji Lake (along Lake Shore Drive, which is full of beautiful lakeside cottages and mansions.) They drove us in the evening to Arnold’s Park and insisted we eat at the best restaurant in town, Maxwell’s – which was indeed very good and owned by a Londoner, to boot. who stopped by our table to talk London with my Londoners Francine and Russ. I had excellent salmon, Russ was happy with his halibut and francine with her pasta with beef tips and mushrooms. Place was hoping, as was most of the area. (Lunch at Taco House was okay.)

On Monday morning, our host very kindly drove us the 8 miles to the start of the ride – and we had a good day of riding, 41 miles. The weather was hot and humid and the wind was very intense at times but scenery lovely. We had coffee and a pastry at an overwhelmed coffee shop in Milford – then on for some church pancakes in a field east of Okoboji.

Before we even hopped on a bike, we did some shopping at Three Sons in Milford (photo above), which turned out to be a half a block from our team’s campground. The discounts on the top floor are well worth a visit!

Francine, Russ and Betsy, Arnold's Park, Ragbrai 2014

Francine, Russ and Betsy, Arnold’s Park, Ragbrai 2014

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