Category Archives: DINING

Attention Time-Lifers – Des Moines not that bad. In fact, it’s pretty good

1986-Present Logo (Current Logo)
Meredith Corporation.svg

There’s been a lot of talk about NYC-based Time-Life magazine people possibly having to move to Des Moines should this deal between Des Moines-based Meredith and Time-Life actually happen – so it seems a good time to make a pitch for Des Moines.  When I moved to Des Moines 21 years ago – to take a media job, not in magazines but at the Des Moines Register – the city wasn’t high on my list of places to live. I had to look at a map to place it (and I was moving from Kansas City, only three hours south of Des Moines, and before that Wichita, six hours south.) I remember my cousin in New York City saying to me “Where do you find these places?”

I’d also lived in London, Boston, the New York City metro area and Iowa didn’t excite.  Des Moines today is still a far cry from those big cities.  And yes, the airfares are relatively high here and you have to get used to missing connecting flights. You can feel isolated from the rest of the world, especially on a snowy February day like today.  But in the past 10 years, Des Moines has become a far more interesting place to live, with more big-city attractions but without the big-city hassles. (And Chicago is a 5 1/2–hour drive away, Minneapolis is four hours, Omaha is two hours and I also love exploring in-state places like Iowa City, Mount Vernon, Decorah and northeast Iowa, Dubuque and other Mississippi River towns.)

Perhaps Des Moines biggest selling point is that it’s a great place to live a relatively stress-free life, in general, and to do the work-family thing, in particular. It’s also become more welcoming for young single career types. When I moved here two decades ago at age 30,  I used to get blue that there was nowhere to go for a late dinner after a Saturday night movie – but that’s no longer the case. There are many more interesting restaurants, cafes, bars and shops now – and an entire urban-esque neighborhood, the East Village that didn’t exist when we arrived. Des Moines’ East Village is not NYC’s East Village – closer to NYC’s West Village, if anything, with interesting boutiques, galleries, music clubs, restaurants and bars. And in the burbs, we now have a Costco, a Trader Joe’s, even a Whole Foods, although frankly, they’re no longer as needed since we also have a great independent gourmet market near downtown, The Gateway Market.

All this, on top of the fact that this is a place where you can live comfortably without going broke. You can buy a beautiful old home – or a new one – for under $250,000. I get a kick out of telling my friends on the east coast or the west coast or even in Chicago how little we paid for our lovely 1930s French eclectic style home. If that doesn’t appeal, there are lots of new lofts and apartments downtown. And no need for private schools here – the public schools are still going strong.  Those lines you have to stand in to get your kid in a summer camp or a swim program in Brooklyn?  That won’t happen here. Even with all the new hip stuff to attract the young creative class, this remains an exceedingly family-friendly community with a lot to offer. Kids really do play outside in our old leafy neighborhood. They ride their bikes and walk to school, just like I did as a kid in 1960s suburban Detroit. Because there’s about a 20  minute rush hour – if that –  and work is close by wherever you live in the metro area, we easily managed sit-down family dinners when our kids were living at home.

As far as  culture and recreation, we’re in good shape too. There’s a lively music and theater scene, with diverse venues that bring in a range of performers and shows from around the country, most recently  “The Book of Mormon”  and Grace Potter and the Nocturnals. (The ticket prices also are much cheaper than you’ll find in Chicago or NYC.); a fantastic contemporary art museum (with free admission) and a fabulous downtown sculpture garden ; a jam-packed farmers market downtown on Saturdays from spring through fall; a two-day independent music festival every summer; an outdoor concert series at an amphitheater along the river; a still-very-alive-and-kicking symphony orchestra.  And within a half hour you can be out in the countryside, riding your bike or walking your dog on one of the many recreational trails in Central Iowa.  Then there’s the people – warm, welcoming, interesting, civic-and-community minded.  Some are native Iowans – a lot moved here, like us, for jobs. We’ve made wonderful friends. You can too!

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Pueblito Viejos, colombian restaurant in Chicago

eventos2
While my sister and I were eating Spanish food in Chicago last Saturday, other members of my family were eating Colombian food in the Lincolnwood neighborhood at Pueblito Viejos at 5429 North Lincoln. They loved the skirt steak, plantains, empanadas and the silk flowers covering the ceiling and tv screens beaming out crazy columbian music videos. There’s also an outpost in Miami!

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Joffrey ballet/auditorium theatre; mercat/the Blackstone Hotel–Chicago

I splurged on tickets to see The Joffrey Ballet and It was worth every shekel
as expected. The dancing was superb, as always, and the program varied, from Twyla Tharp’s choreography to nine Sinatra songs to a perky piece by Jerome Robbins, an avant garde piece by John Adams and an intimate piece danced by a spectacular couple, choreographed by Gerald Scarpino, the joffrey’s co founder.

It is also always a treat to attend a performance at the elegant old Auditorium theatre at Roosevelt University, an 1889 beauty by Louis Sullivan and Dankmar Adler with its murals, gold leaf adorned ceiling, mosaics. much as I enjoy the spare design of the new theatre by Millenium park, it can’t compare to the old world charm of the auditorium. (“the greatest room for music and opera in the world bar none” according to Frank Lloyd Wright.)

We ate a very interesting light lunch at Mercat a la Planxa, a catalan-inspired restaurant (think barcelona) in The Blackstone Hotel, another elegant old turn of the century Chicago place known for its smoke filled rooms where local pols made their deals. My sister and I had a delicious thick soup arroz a la cazuela, with rice,bits of chicken, chorizo and shrimp; an interesting mixed greens salad with asparagus, avocado, green beans, shaved mahon cheese; and a one of a kind dessert – croquetas de xocolata, deep fried balls filled with hot liquid chocolate, each plopped in a little pool of carmel and banana marshmallow fluff.

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Andy’s Thai Kitchen …excellent find in Chicago

On a sloshy February day, we were cheered up by a superb lunch at Andy’s Thai Kitchen, a brand new cheerful little storefront beside the Wellington Street Brown Line El stop in Lincoln Park. I went with some tough customers from the foodie hotspot of Brooklyn ( soon to be from the foodie outpost of Los Angeles) and even they were impressed. Everything we ate was delicious – and often unique. My favorite entree was basil crispy pork, which was a mound of rice with thick crunchy bits of salty pork in a slightly sweet sauce, with withered basil, sliced mushrooms, garlic and chili. We also enjoyed the pork neck (sounds icky but isn’t), slices of marinated grilled pork that is served with a brown lime dipping sauce. Other good picks, Thai spring rolls, panang curry, pad Thai, pad see ew with perfectly cooked tofu, crispy on outside and moist inside. Good service and cheerful unassuming ambiance. The restaurant is near several others at Wellington and Sheffield, including Fish Bar and DMK Burgers.

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Windy city: cafe zinc, studio gang show at art institute

Blustery day in Chicago, with the winds especially fierce along Michigan avenue so after a pleasant lunch at cafe zinc ( cream of mushroom soup, egg salad sandwich) I got a bus pass and some ear muffs at Walgreens and hopped onto the 151 bus to the art institute where I caught what I believe is one of the last days of an exhibit about studio gang, the architecture firm of Jeanne Gang, which designed the fabulous Aqua building in downtown Chicago and lots of other buildings as I learned from the exhibit. Well worth a visit. I also popped to see the small collection of folk art at the institute. I didn’t have enough time or energy to go to the Picasso in Chicago show that just opened.

20130221-232530.jpg this is a cool building in Iowa, near grinnell.

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Cool art show alert in Grinnell – art from the grocery aisles

Jonathan Seliger, Seasonal, 2010

September 20, 2013 – December 15, 2013 |

I like contemporary art that rifs off of contemporary life (isn’t that what it should do?) so I’m intrigued by an upcoming show at Grinnell College’s excellent Faulconer Gallery  “Stocked Contemporary Art from the Grocery Aisles” that features art inspired by “shopping carts, candy wrappers, grocery lists, paper bags, milk bottles and cereal boxes – ordinary often overlooked items” that emerge as “objects for artistic investigation. The show runs from Sept. 20 to Dec. 15, 2013 and will give me another excuse to dine at the excellent Prairie Canary restaurant on Main Street. The show also has connections to Wichita, where I lived long ago. It was organized by Wichita State University’s Ulrich Museum.

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Power dining in Des Moines – really? If Time – Lifers insist…..

http://www.businessweek.com/articles/2013-02-15/where-to-power-lunch-in-des-moines#r=hpt-ls

I have friends who work at Time Life publications in NYC who are no doubt very excited at the prospect of moving to Des Moines if there is some sort of merger with Des Moines-based Meredith Corp. NOT. But should it come to that – and it’s not clear that it will – Business week has an amusing story about where to power dine in Des Moines. Frankly I think that’s an oxymoron. People don’t power dine here – that I’m aware of – which is one of the city’s many charms. I could add a few other places to their list…if people just want a good lunch rather than face time.

For what it’s worth – here’s the story below. I disagree on a few points: (although I don’t power dine, especially at lunch. I have been to most of these places, most often for dinner. And I’m not a power broker…)

– Zombie Burger is a fun Hipster burger joint – and almost anti-power dining. Unless you consider pink-haired tattooed boys and girls to be power brokers.

– Alba’s waitstaff is not surly – in my limited experience. Try the guiness shortribs (at dinner at least).

– The Centro and Embassy Club write-ups are the most dead-on

–  For power brokers, I’d add 801 Grand Steakhouse – has that stuffy clubby old white guys with cigars feel, not exactly the hip magazine crowd.

New York’s publishing industry has dined out on lavish expense accounts across Midtown Manhattan for decades. But for the legions of workers at Time Inc., the largest magazine publisher in America, the institution of the “power lunch” may soon experience a stark change of scenery, should Meredith Corp. (MDP) purchase most of Time Inc.’s magazines from Time Warner (TWX) and relocate the operations to Meredith’s headquarters in Des Moines.

For those new to Des Moines’s dining scene, here’s a handy guide.

1. Centro

Helping New Yorkers Feel at Home: Three dishes with “New York” in the name

Funky Decor: A former Masonic Temple

Liquid Lunch: $2 up-charge for hard liquor served “neat.” Where have we heard this before?

Sample Menu Item: Buttermilk Fried Chicken Salad, $15.50

Diner Online Review: “The waiter dude definitely showed some professionalism.”

Power Table: “Undoubtedly table 49,” says Centro co-founder and partner Paul Rottenberg. The corner four-top banquette “provides equal parts privacy and an ideal vantage point to scan the main dining room.” The table’s prime location makes it “enviable for any mover and shaker.”Courtesy Centro

2. Des Moines Embassy Club

Helping New Yorkers Feel at Home: Must be a member to dine here

Funky Decor: 101-year-old chandeliers

Liquid Lunch: Martinis made with fresh ingredients from herb gardens surrounding the restaurant

Sample Menu Item: Lobster Spaghetti, $17

Diner Online Review: The first rule of Embassy Club is that nobody talks (online) about Embassy Club

Power Table: Three “Say Yes” tables, which according to culinary director Michael LaValle are usually occupied by “the president of the bank downstairs, the lead counsel at a local law firm, and the retired head of an insurance company.”

3. Alba Restaurant

Helping New Yorkers Feel at Home: Notoriously slow and surly waitstaff

Funky Decor: Doors suspended from the ceiling

Sample Menu Item: Duck Terrine & Fried Egg sandwich, $7.50

Diner Online Review: “Salt is not a flavor like everywhere else we ate.”

Power Table: “Um … I guess you could sit near the window,” says owner Jason Simon. “You can see the Capitol Building. That’s kinda cool.”

4. Django Restaurant

Helping New Yorkers Feel at Home: iPad drink menu

Funky Decor: Midwestern French

Liquid Lunch: Absinthe cocktail

Sample Menu Item: “Le Cheeseburger,” $9.99

Diner Online Review: “OMG bacon syrup … you MUST try.”

Power Table: The “Wine Alcove” is a prominent spot, says general manager Mike Crownover. “You’ve got the wine shelving area on one side of your table, and windows on the other. It’s windows and wine. It’s very popular for business lunches.”

5. Zombie Burger

Helping New Yorkers Feel at Home: “Dead Moines” burger a punny reminder that you now live in the middle of nowhere.

Funky Decor: Zombie wall murals

Liquid Lunch: Milkshake spiked with booze

Sample Menu Item: “We’re Coming to Get You Barbara” grilled cheese, $11.79

Diner Online Review: “The staff is pretty hot” (not that it matters or anything).

Power Table: Chef and co-owner George Formaro recommends one of only two communal tables in the center of the dining room. “Their prominent location and bar height makes them the most visible and hard-to-get seats in the restaurant,” he says.

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Talented team to feed masses at DSM’s Riverwalk soon. walking tours too.

Good to hear that the talented Lisa and Michael LaValle will team up with talented George Formaro to run the food stand at the Hub Spot along Des Moines’ Principal Riverwalk , off Court Avenue west of the river, starting this April. The food sounds equally promising – with locally-sourced items like LaQuercia prosciutto, Maytag Cheese and Zanzibar coffee to be sold, not to mention a “Zombie Burger” cart – a spin off of Formaro’s popular East Village restaurant. Lisa has been the longtime chef at the Des Moines Art Center and is an all round nice person. (Our kids went to school together.) Here’s more info from the Des Moines Register! And here’s hoping the Riverwalk becomes as popular as Gray’s Lake with outdoor enthusiasts. We regularly ride our bikes on a trail through both – now we’ll have a new place to get a snack downtown.

The Hub Spot at the Principal Riverwalk, which is nearing completion, is on the west side of the river, near the Polk County office building.

The Hub Spot at the Principal Riverwalk, on the west side of the river, near the Polk County office building.

And what’s this about Carl Voss, another person we’ve known for decade, offering walking tours of downtown Des Moines in the spring? And kayaking on the Raccoon River?

The Des Moines Art Center

 

 

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Grinnell road trip : Robert Polidori photos,Prairie Canary cuisine!

Robert Polidori, Salles d'Afrique, Portrait of Louis XVI by Callet #2, Chateau d

Robert Polidori, Salles d’Afrique, Portrait of Louis XVI by Callet #2, Chateau de Versailles, 2007. Color photograph. Faulconer Gallery, Grinnell College Art Collection.

Here’s a great way to beat the February blahs in Iowa – go to the fabulous Robert Polidori exhibit at Grinnell College’s Faulconer Gallery. We went yesterday and were bowled over by Polidori’s painting-like photographs of interiors of places as different as post-Chernobyl Ukraine, post-Katrina New Orleans and post-nothing Versailles. This is the second exhibit we’ve gone to at Faulconer Gallery and yet again, we walked away very impressed (and a little concerned that yet again we were the only people in the gallery on a very quiet Saturday afternoon on campus.)

We had an outstanding dinner at Prairie Canary, the new restaurant opened by Carly Groben (who made a name for herself in Des Moines with the restaurant Proof.)  The service was a little spotty but the food and ambiance was great. I only wish it was a little closer to Des Moines (it’s about an hour away.) We were glad to see the place was packed – at 6 p.m. on a Saturday night.

Located in a glass-fronted shop along Grinnell’s tidy Main Street, Prairie Canary looks distinctly contemporary with its plain exterior and tidy graphics, compared to the old brick facades of its neighbors (and the cool old movie theater The Strand, with its original arcade) but in a clean not garish way.

The interior is minimalist, with a long wood floor, pine wood tables, white designer chairs, neutral colored, bare walls – but it feels warmer, less spare than Proof, in part due to the huge old wood antique bar at the back with a big mirror that looks a bit Parisian. The pottery is by a local purveyor (among several listed on the menu) and is a nice off-white stoneware with a dark rim. Old fashioned glass jam jars are on each table, one with a little candle, another with a pretty well-chosen display of little green non-flowering plants and a narrow long cattail. All very tasteful but not too.

The food was very good – creative but not kooky, presented in an appealing, simple straightforward way. We started with an Asian sampler – a few crispy fried wontons/potstickers with “braised ginger pork and chives” inside, served with a sesame-soy dipping sauce; a very hearty spring roll stuffed with  shredded chicken and served with a chili-lime creamy sauce (I didn’t notice the advertised “mango-jalapeno” aspect);  two skewers with little chunks of perfectly seared and seasoned medium-rare beef. I had roasted pork tenderloin with tart cherries – which fortunately was not a huge slab of meat but small nice-cooked not-dry meat atop a thin slab of well-seasoned polenta (creamy on the inside, crisp on the outside) and a few pieces of also well-seasoned still-crunchy broccoli.  The sauce wasn’t creamy, as advertised, and I was glad. Instead, it was a light sauce – seemed to be made up mostly of the meat’s juices.  I’ve never been good at cooking pork (must be my Jewish heritage holding me back..) so I admire those who can – and many in Iowa can.

Carly Groben, owner of the Prairie Canary Restaurant

My husband had a fancier version of a Philly steak sandwich, deliciously salty tender meat with heaps of grilled peppers and onions, melted cheese in a perfect bun, crispy hand-cut fries served with the same chili-lime sauce as the potstickers  – again well-seasoned. For dessert, we shared a piece of the Canary Cake – a banana, pineapple cake with cream cheese frosting and candied pecans. We saw no sign of the actual banana or pineapple but  they may have been what contributed to the flavor and moistness of what appeared to be and tasted like a cross between spice cake and carrot cake. Delicious. The bar in the basement looked fun too. We will be back!

exterior of Prairie Canary in Grinnell (not the best shot, alas.)

exterior of Prairie Canary in Grinnell (not the best shot, alas.)

More on the Polidori exhibit:

Exhibition Date:

25 Jan 2013 – 17 Mar 2013

School Year:

2012 – 2013

Location:

Faulconer Gallery

For more than 25 years, Robert Polidori, the noted architectural and editorial photographer, has been photographing historic sites around the world as diverse as the Castro regime’s Havana, post-Katrina New Orleans, post-human Chernobyl, and the Palace of Versailles. This exhibition features 60 large-scale color photographs from these and other ongoing projects. A full-color, hardcover catalogue for the exhibition, co-published by the Faulconer Gallery and Steidl Publishers, Germany, is available.

 

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gramercy tap at Kirkwood in Des Moines – so so

Wasabi Tao opened on January 24 in the Kirkwood Building in Downtown Des Moines.
Wasabi Tao opened on January 24 in the Kirkwood Building in Downtown Des Moines.

The Gramercy Tap opens in Downtown Des Moines

We’ve been trying some new restaurants with friends here in Des Moines – because WHAT else is there to do in Des Moines in February when the weather is cold and grey and gloomy – and last night’s visit to the Gramercy Tap – the latest effort to fill the drafty space of the Kirkwood Building’s  old ballroom (or I think that’s what it was) – was so-so. The service was fine. The ambiance is a little lacking – the room is just too stark and cold, especially when there’s not a big crowd. We think it would make a fine….ballroom. Which of course won’t work these days. The food was okay – nice varied menu with lots of inexpensive sides and appetizers and a handful of pricey entrees. The New England Clam Chowder with the alluring bacon bits – which we’d heard of – was gone by 7:15 when we tried to order it. Which seems like bad planning by the kitchen. We had an appetizer with pork belly that was icky – a big blob of fat, essentially, with a fried egg atop it and some good roasted vegetables and crunchy bits of guanciale (Italian bacon). My lamb burger was fine – served with some chopped tomatoes, cukes and feta which worked well. The creamed spinach was more cheesy than creamy and not interestingly spiced. My husband’s spaghetti carbonara, on the other hand, was swimming in cheesy sauce. Just looking at it made me feel some lactose intolerance coming on. Our friends liked their tomato bisque and fish dishes (i prefered the arctic char to the skate, from what I sampled.)

We’ve been to two other restaurants in this space and never returned to either. Just didn’t feel like somewhere we’d want to go again and I’m afraid I feel similarly about this latest effort. We did wander over to the new sushi bar across the hall in the Kirkwood (Wasabi Tao – owned by the same folks of another sushi place here we’ve heard good things about, Wasabi Chi)  and it looked much more inviting, a smaller, darker, much warmer space with lots of people in little pockets of the place and a large illuminated Buddha overseeing it all. We tried a previous sushi place there a few years ago and had the worst service ever – it took hours to get our food. But this new place looks worth a try! And the Kirkwood is such a great old building with a lobby full of terra cotta embellishments and painted murals and an old front desk….

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