Category Archives: 4) DESTINATIONS — not in U.S.

Back to the futon at a Japanese guesthouse – Hakone

IMG_1744 (1).JPGWe’re not in Tokyo anymore….The Fuji Hakone Guesthouse is in a lovely secluded spot in dense woods on the side of a mountain in the hot springs resort area of Hakone, about a 2.5 hour trip from the frenetic Tokyo Station this morning, by various forms of public transportation including a subway, train and bus.

Now if I could just find a comfortable place to sit. Our room is traditional Japanese-style with two futons on tatami mats and a low wood table with pillows as seats. So I’ve doubled up the pillows and wedged myself against the wall for back support. Our sliding wood and paper screen window is open to a view of the woods and a mountain in the distance. We can hear wind or is it rushing water? And birds, frogs and crickets. (I’m guessing here.)

I’ve had onsen bath #1 – the small private indoor bath.  Dirck and I booked the private outdoor bath fo,a half hour this evening. ( When in Rome…) I’ve never taken so many baths in my life and have grown to look forward to them after long days as a tourist trudging around in the heat and sometimes rain. The small bath here was very hot and the water was cloudy, I’m assuming with sulfur but it didn’t smell bad.

We went to a small Japanese restaurant nearby for a bowl of udon with tofu for me and soba and tempura for Dirck. Then we took the cable car. Unfortunately the ropeway (which we are guessing is a chairlift or gondola )  was closed but will be open tomorrow. We’ll  take the area’s famous narrow gauge train part of the way home back to Tokyo on Saturday.

I am glad we opted to get the Hakone free pass at Shinjuko station in Tokyo which covers all our transportation to and from Tokyo and while we are here. It’s great not to have to pay for all the bits and bobs of public transportation we are using.

 

 

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Ginza, hole-in-wall ramen, moving feast – back to Tokyo

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The farmers stayed later than planned in Yamanashi (many wanted to try the roller coaster behind our hotel) so we went back to Tokyo on our own, finding an incredibly convenient and on-schedule bus that went directly to Tokyo Station from the bus station smack dab next to our hotel. Much easier than expected.

Two hours later we were back at the Super Lohas hotel and soon after, having the classic experience of getting lost in Tokyo. But with time, we found our way to fancy Ginza, a 20-minute walk from our hotel, once we figured out where we were and needed to go. We managed to find a popular,  hole-in-the-wall restaurant called Andy’s (a Brit named Andy who married into a restaurant family here) but it was only open for dinner. Not to worry. We found another hole-in-the wall place, ban-nae,  underneath the Yamamote subway line (It was kind of eerie when the train rumbled above the ceiling we sat under) that had fantastic pork ramen, gyoza and edamame. There was a reason the place was packed with solo Japanese diners. The restaurant staff didn’t speak much English but were very kind and even walked us over to Andy’s, a few doors down (where we met Andy and reserved a table for Saturday night).

On to the two grand department stores, Matsuya and Mitsukoshi, where we toured the food halls in the basement and saw all kinds of amazing stuff, including square watermelon,  very expensive cantaloupe and waygu beef and Yamanashi peaches selling for about $8 a piece. We also managed to find an famous old coffee shop Cafe de L’Ambre, a kissaten/coffee shop that serves only coffee  and unusual coffee at that.  I had a #7 hot and cold coffee with a meticulously poured layer of sweet milk on top, served in a shallow wine glass. (“Don’t stir,” I was instructed)

Tonight we had a lot of fun at Nemuro Hanamaru, in the 5th floor of the  Kitte building on the elegant side of Tokyo Station– a “conveyor belt restaurant” where different dishes (mostly sushi but also some great fried chicken/karaage and odd stuff like grape juice, tiramisu and French fries) glided by on a moving belt while we sat, at the counter.

A nice young guy and his 13-year-old son (in photo above) sat next to us and helped us figure out how to do various things and even insisted on buying us a plate of tuna sushi.  People  here have been so incredibly nice.  In Tokyo Station, no fewer than four people asked today if we needed help. And we did. And they helped. (I’ve learned it pays to ask even when you think you know what you are doing because often you don’t. Or the people offering to help have a better idea!) I love this country!

 

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Mt Fuji day – Fujiyoshida City (Yamanashi)

IMG_0149 (1).JPGFinally figured out what city we’re in. I knew the Prefecture (Yamanashi) but not the city. It’s Fujiyoshida  and appears to be dominated by this hotel, the amusement park behind it and a commercial strip with restaurants, some with familiar names (McDonald’s, Big Boy, KFC,) but the good is different than the starts. Word has it the burgers at Big Boy were more like meatloaf with gravy. We stuck with Japanese food and went to Aiya, which we decided was the Applebee’s of Japan, a chain restaurant with serviceable fare – we had sashimi, tempura, tonkatsu (breaded pork cutlet) etc. We were the only westerners there (for awhile) and it was a useful experience to be in a place that didn’t cater to tourists (i.e., no English menu or English spoken). We sat next to a couple and their elderly mother who ordered a lot of food. (The woman started with an ice cream sundae.)

Today we went to Saiko lyashi no Sarto, a reconstructed ancient village with thatched roofed wood houses climbing up a thickly vegetated hillside lined with purple and pink hydrangea. We’d already had a taste of this environment in Kyoto and it reminded us a bit of Living History Farms in Des Moines but it was a pretty place to stroll and Mt Fuji peaked out from the clouds now and then.

After a good lunch at the Japanese restaurant in the hotel, we drove on the bus about 45 minutes to station 5 of Mt. Fuji, so we were actually on the mountain. Clouds broke up the view below but we could see most of the peak — dark brown earth with patches of green. Lovely. Just back from the onsen (bath house) feeling refreshed. On to the last banquet.

 

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Peaches to die for — Yamanashi

IMG_1646 (1)Soon after we arrived in Japan, I started craving fruit and eyeing, in particular, the perfect softball-size peaches in markets. But I didn’t eat one until today, when we were invited to eat as many as we liked while touring a peach orchard here. The peaches sell in markets for 400 to 600 yen ($4-6) each which is why I put off buying them. Today, I ate more than I’ll admit.

THey were amazing – soft but not mushy or mealy, white flesh and oozing with juice. We ate some that had been frozen and they were delicious. This was followed by homemade peach ice cream which was on par with Bauder’s ice cream in Des Moines.

The orchard was one of five or so fruit/veg businesses we visited in fields surrounded by mountains densely covered with green vines and what looked like kudzu. We also went to a rice paddy, a peach sorting plant, a greenhouse with grapes (that Iowans helped recover from a huge snowfall that damaged the building), a fancy fruit and food market (with ham and pork genetically derived from Iowa hogs).  At each stop, we were warmly greeted by staff, owners, workers, often receiving gift bags with caps and tenugui (hand towels) and fans, not to mention peaches and many other food samples.

At one spot, a television reporter greeted us. Must say this is a very cool thing about being an Iowan – having this warm longstanding relationship with a rural region of Japan that dates back to 1960. People here seem genuinely pleased that we came all this way to visit. And how cool that the Iowa/ Yamanashi sister state relationship is the first between a US and Japan state/ prefecture.

Midway through our tour we were ushered into yet another banquet hall for yet another excellent meal, beautifully served. We had special wide flour noodles made here, in a miso soup, greens and pickled stuff, some steamed chicken and vegetables, rice (of course) and what I think was mochi dusted with green tea powder.

Interestingly, Mt. Fuji has disappeared behind the clouds – you’d never know it was there so glad we had it for so long yesterday.

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Mt Fuji View – Yamanashi Prefecture

 

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Hakone


Today, a very different hotel and view: a smaller, less flashy hotel, the Highland Resort, in Yamanashi Prefecture with a stunning view of Mt. Fuji which was cloaked in clouds when we arrived but not any more.

We drove about two hours to Hakone, for a quick ride on a cruise boat across Lake Ashi. Very refreshing to be out in the countryside after Tokyo. Narrow roads winding around densely vegetated low mountains lined with purple hydrangea.  Then we drove another hour to Yamanashi (I don’t know what town this is). Directly in front of me as I type in my room is the dark conical shaped Fuji, with a thin line of fluffy clouds near its base and below, dense green forest, mostly pine trees. To our left ( but out of view from where I sit)  is a four-lane highway strip with among other things a Big Boy restaurant and in the back of the hotel is an amusement park, complete with a roller coaster. There’s an onsen here too which I hope to use. (My body is aching after my massage yesterday.)

p.s. Morning after: Did use the onsen. Becoming a fan. It’s a relaxing way to end the day. The governor of Yamanashi welcomed us at a banquet last night, followed by a rousing performance by about a dozen traditional drummers and then a young guy playing a traditional guitar that sounded a bit like a cross between a sitar and a banjo.

 

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Iron Chef, Onsen, Tsukiji Fish Market – Toyko

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With the Iron Chef

Never a dull moment. Today’s close encounter was with the Iron Chef Masahara Morimoto, of  television fame (that’s him in the hat).  Eight of us when to what I gather was one of his restaurants, Atelier XEX, and he happened to be at the restaurant, which is very rare, so he stopped by our table to say hi.  Just one of several noteworthy experiences today.

We began with a visit to the amazing Tsukiji Fish Market, where our guide led us through throngs of people carrying umbrellas in the rain, along narrow corridors lined with fish merchants. Lots of sights and sounds – massive chunks of tuna that looked almost like beef, huge tuna heads, dried bonita fish flakes used to make a salty broth (dashi) for miso soup.  Then we were ushered into a tasting room to try like all kinds of sushi (I loved the tuna varieties  but not the octopus or squid).

This afternoon I went by myself to Ooedo Onsen Monogatari, a hot springs bath theme park of sorts that was pretty crazy, packed with kids, families, very thin women. I  joined dozens of naked women in the women’s bath area, sitting in hot water, cold water, lukewarm water, a steam room and sauna. Met a nice young woman from Austria in one pool of water.  I paid extra to have “fish therapy” which was bizarre, with fish feasting on the dead skin on my feet. They made some head way but needed more than the 15 minutes I was willing to pay for. I also got a Japanese body and foot massage, which was different – lots of pressure points work. I could have spent longer at the onsen. There were other treatments, plus food, some sort of live floor show, God knows what else.

Tonight’s dinner featured all kinds of delicious food cooked on a hot grill in front of us: shrimp tartar, “sautéed use” lobster, oyster foie gras, waygu beef. Wow.

 

 

 

 

 

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Seeing Ambassador Kennedy – Tokyo

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We did lots of interesting things today but the coolest for me, hands down, was being about two feet away from Caroline Kennedy, now Ambassador Kennedy, during  a visit to the U.S. Embassy. I have admired her for years. Maybe  10 years ago I wrote an essay about her for a newspaper, when her mother died. Or maybe it was when her brother died. Anyway, there she was right in front of me, standing at a lectern, welcoming over 100 visiting farmers  who came to the embassy for an ag briefing. She looked smaller, thinner and more fragile than I expected. And older, her skin stretched tight across those sharp, almost bird-like, Kennedy features that reminded me most of her grandmother Rose. She was warm, funny, low-key. I was star struck.

Beyond that, we spent much of the morning  on an air conditioned tour bus seeing some major sights with the help of a tour guide, going up in the Tokyo sky tree for an amazing aerial view of the city, visiting the old shrine at Akasuka (and the street leading up to it lined with good craft and souvenir shops), gazing out at the imperial palace.

We ate very well too, at Gonpachi, a  place made famous in the movie “Kill Bill” and we had the good fortune to sit by people who didn’t like sushi so we ate their’s.  More fabulous Japanese food tonight at an elegant resort in the city,  Happoen, with a lovely Japanese garden lined with ancient bonsai trees.

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“Lost in Translation” land- Tokyo; overnight at Kyoto ryokan

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Talk about a change of scenery: now we are in a super modern new development area in Tokyo Bay at an enormous convention hotel, Grand Nikko Tokyo Daiba. (Yes this is the portion of the trip we did not plan or pay for…). Out our 16th floor room is a sweeping view of high rise towers lining the bay and, oddly, our very own Statue of Liberty.

The bed here is about three times the size of the futon at the Hiirayaga ryokan (traditional inn) we slept on last night. Fortunately, the futon wasn’t too hard and my back held up (so far) but at around 1 am I woke up with what I later self-diagnosed as heartburn or acid re-flux and a vague upset stomach. Too much weird food during our kaiseria dinner at the ryokan last night. We opted to have breakfast not in our room (which was getting a tad confining) but instead in the dining room of the new wing, a gorgeous room with solid glass walls on all four sides that made it feel like we were dining in the lovely garden just beyond those walls. I ate the western breakfast (couldn’t deal with a Japanese breakfast of tofu, miso, pickled stuff but I did eat the good smoked fish). I am glad we stayed at the ryokan, it was truly an adventure, like stepping back in time and the people running the place were lovely. But one night was enough.

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Relaxing Japanese-style at Hiiragiya ryokan — Kyoto

IMG_0122 (1)The futons have been laid out in our room, on the tatami mats where a low table with two chairs once stood (from one of which I managed to stand up from without throwing my back out, following a nine course (or so) Kaiseki meal). Hiiragiya Ryokan  is an old inn that’s only a few blocks from the very different  hotel where we spent the previous four nights. But it seems miles and decades away, sort of lost in time.

IMG_0129Our room is very traditional, low wood ceilings, tatami mats, bamboo screens, a glass back window looking out onto a Japanese garden. I can hear water tricking outside but little else. We have taken two long baths, as is the tradition here, which was relaxing after traipsing around all day in the heat.

Our meal was served one course at a time by a polite young woman in a kimono, lots of things we’ve never eaten before  (“sushi of horse mackerel,”  “dipped and broiled burdock wrapped with eel in soy-based sauce” etc). Not our kind of food but definitely a memorable cultural experience.

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We have tried to get into the groove here but there’s been laughter too and Dirck has been a good sport, padding around barefoot in his new yukata (robe.)  For lunch, the ryokan folks suggested a traditional in yakitori restaurant, Kushikura, nearby where we sat a modified Japanese seats watching the chefs meticulously grilled meat and vegetables on skewers.

imageLast night we went to Honke Odawara, a soba noodle place that has an outpost on the the 7th floor of the elegant department store Takashamaya,  whose food stands we visited today. Wish me luck sleeping…

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RAGBRAI prep in Kyoto

Kyoto Imperial park (shades of the Brandenburg gate three years ago Kyoto Imperial Park (shades of the Brandenburg Gate bike ride three years ago)

imageWith the weather making Kyoto even more of a furnace today, cycling was the way to go and it did feel at times like RAGBRAI (The Register’s Annual Great Bike Ride Across Iowa) as sweat dripped down my face while peddling inrelentlessly bright and hot sun. But what a great way to see Kyoto, especially since it is so flat in town (unlike the nearby mountains) and the streets are bike-friendly. Everyone is riding, it seems, young, old, Japanese and not.

We ended up renting (for 10,000 yen/$10 each for the entire day) from a bike shop owner near Sanjo station and the bikes were big and sturdy, 5-6 speeds with a big wire basket. Worked great! We rode to the Imperial Palace, Nijo Castle, way up the river (further than planned since we were riding on the river trail and missed the turnoff street to the Silver Palace and had to backtrack.

When we finally got to the Silver {alace, the place was choked with tourists (which we did not miss while biking) so instead we rode on a country lane alongside the Philosophers Walk, a one-mile or so lovely shady footpath along a canal.  Again, biking made it much more pleasant given the heat. From there we rode near the Goji bridge to a hip cafe in a hostel called Lin that we discovered during our recent dinner at nearby Giro Giro. No food available but I had superb pineapple juice (I am dying for fruit here but it’s hard to find and very pricey when I do…a peach for $4) a croissant and mixed nuts. I did find fresh pineapple served on a stick outside the terrific craft store on Shiro Dori (street) in Gion. Such a fun day, even when we came back to our hotel dripping with sweat and sunburned.

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