Category Archives: Massachusetts

Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum/cafe G and Far Out “real fruit” ice cream in Boston; AJK Bakery and McIntire Historic District in Salem, weird delays with American Airlines at Boston’s Logan airport.

D and I had not been to the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum in decades and never together so it was a great to return on a suddenly cold but sunny March day. The interior courtyard with its beautiful plants and flowers, arranged with symmetrical precision, was a psychological boost, a reminder that spring will come soon, if not yet.

Isabella’s palace

In the early 1900s, Isabella collected all sorts of old world artworks and arranged them in the vast and small spaces of her mansion (“palace”) in idiosyncratic fashion, which reminded me of the Barnes Foundation in Philadelphia. The rooms are often dark and gloomy, painted a deep moody blue or red, with large dramatic paintings, antiques, ceramics and sculpture. The windows and balconies lining the three-story courtyard with its Moorish patterns lets in very welcome light, adding an unexpected sunniness.

Isabella Stewart Gardner contemporary addition

A contemporary addition to the main house is also cheerful, with red and orange mod furniture. We had an excellent, albeit pricey, lunch in the restaurant Cafe G (rigatoni Bolognese!) and sat in comfy contemporary chairs in a lounge.

We also visited the edgy contemporary photo exhibit on the second floor, where photographers documented experimenting with their gender and sexuality. Couldn’t help wondering what Isabella would have made of it. One thing’s clear: she wouldn’t have been in it. She didn’t like having her picture taken, and often covered her face with a scarf when photographed.

A 13 minute walk along the Fens got us to the Time Out Market where we went to Far Out for New Zealand style ice cream — soft serve mixed with real fruit. Real Tasty.

On our last day we went to AJK, an excellent bakery with pastries, breakfast sandwiches and sandwiches in Salem walked past beautiful old Yankee homes in the nearby historic McIntire District, dodging a few witch tours here and there. We stopped at the statue of Bewitched TV show star Elizabeth Montgomery so D. could pose with his childhood crush.

Dirck with Bewitched statue in Salem.

Our American Airlines flight home was rocky. We boarded for an on time departure from Boston to Chicago and started moving. Then flight attendants started rushing up and down the aisles. Then the plane stopped and we were told there was a missing passenger. Then we were told there was a passenger count discrepancy. Next thing we know, we’re taxing back to a gate and are told we must deplane with all our stuff, hopefully to soon re-plane — which we did after awhile, complete with another safety demonstration by a flight attendant. Then there was another weird delay — the tow bar (or some such) wasn’t coming off. Strange grinding noise ensued, then stopped, and we flew to Chicago, leaving several hours late, causing several passengers to miss their connections. Our outbound flight on American also began with a short delay that grew longer.

Salem bakery AJK

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Peabody museum/Salem, Boston public library/Tatte/warren Tavern/old classmates in Charlestown, my old group house in Somerville

Bunker hill monument

We enjoyed a visit to the superb Peabody Museum in Salem with brother-in-law Steve. A very interesting collection of Native American art, old and contemporary, and early American art; also a step Chinese home called Yin Yu Tang that came from a small rural village west of Shanghai and was reconstructed inside the museum. Built in 1790, lived in by eight generations of the Huang family over 200 years, most recently in 1982. Twenty to 30 people lived in the house at one time. About 40 percent of the objects in the house belonged to the Huang family, another 45 percent were from homes in the region with similar histories. Way cool and reminded us of a old traditional building with a dark wood interior surrounding a central courtyard that we stayed at in Hoi An, Vietnam.

Peabody

During an unexpected return to Somerville (long story), we drove past the group house I lived in several lives ago (1983) at 34 Avon street (I remembered the address) which looked spruced up since my day.

My former residence

On to Charlestown which also has spruced up since my day, complete with an outpost of the excellent Tatte bakery on Warren Street where we had excellent hot chocolate and a morning bun. We were in the shadow of the towering Bunker Hill Monument with streets lined with attractive colonial-era- looking homes and alluring shops on Main Street that I wish I had time to explore.

High school friends represent!

But we were there, instead, for an event for my book Our Diaries, Ourselves at the Charlestown branch of the Boston Public Library! High school friends kindly showed up.

Warren Tavern

We all went to dinner at the very atmospheric Warren Tavern, circa the 1780s, where revolutionary leaders George Washington and Paul Revere dined. (Good burger and Cobb salad, centuries later!)

Charlestown

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Shubie’s/the Barnacle/ Abbott Hall in Marblehead, Porter Square Books and Gustavo cuban kitchen/Cambridge, Mass., Bernadette in Salem

Marblehead

We have eaten well, as always in the Boston area, thanks to Dirck’s sister who used to be a newspaper food critic here. First stop, Shubie’s, a cheerful gourmet market and cafe with killer sandwiches, salads, and deli counter with enticing prepared foods.

The Barnacle

We also enjoyed the fish chowder, steamed clams, and water view at The Barnacle. We walked along the quiet Marblehead streets lined with flat-front wood frame homes from the 1700s and 1800s with historic plaques and along the waterfront by an old fort. (Fort Sewall, 1742.)

Abbott Hall is a cool old pile of bricks with some old paintings including the spirit of America. We learned that Marblehead is the home of the American Navy and the Girl Scouts Brownie. (Guess which one I was in.)

Dinner after my Our Diaries, Ourselves book reading at Porter square books in Cambridge was at nearby Gustavo’s, where we had meat dishes packed with flavor (pork asadas, ribs, chicharones)

Abbott Hall

The weather was glorious, with temperatures rising to the 70s, perfect for a waterfront walk in Swampscott, with glistening water and the Boston skyline rising in the distance. In Salem, we had a good meal at Bernadette.

Stunning ocean view from swampscott on high

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In and around Martha’s Vineyard with a local!

Oak Bluffs

I’ve long said I’d go anyplace if a local wanted to show me around but even better if the place is beautiful. So we felt very lucky to spend a day touring this beautiful island with a local and even better a local-by- choice who years ago picked the island village of Vineyard Haven as the place where she wanted to live when school is out (she was a teacher) and retire.

Oak Bluffs

The weather was grey and foggy so we couldn’t see the water until the fog lifted after a few hours. But the fog added to the other worldliness as we drove along winding roads in the woods and beside sand dunes where the beach and ocean was obscured by the gloom.

Famous names

L. drove us down island (east) and up island (west), around west Chop and East Chop, to places with Native American or English names, through the classy village of Edgartown with its stately white and grey shingled homes, and funkier Oak Bluffs, with its rows of little Victorian painted lady cottages surrounding the gathering pavilion of the “Martha’s vineyard camp meeting association” a religious community since 1835.

Edgartown

She drove us to her favorite seaside fish shack ( in menemsha) and pointed out her favorite shingled mansions on sprawling grounds and the headstones of famous writers and journalists (William Styron, Art Buchwald, Mike Wallace) in a graveyard with old peculiar monuments.

Island map

It was fun to be here so off season, among 20,000 year round residents on an island that swells to 100,000 in the summer. Yes, fog and gloom, shuttered shops and estates with shrouded shrubbery, but empty roads and locals at one of the few restaurants open. We ate pizza and Cobb salad at Rockfish in Edgartown.

The weather suddenly cleared our second day here, with bright sun, blue sky, shimmering water, 60 degrees. we joined L for her morning constitutional in Oak Bluffs with its pretty town green and boardwalk along the water.

Ferry ride

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Seven stars/cranston, RI, ferry and two bakeries in Woods Hole, Mass.

Rookie mistake, as we learned here in Woods Hole, where the ferry to Martha’s Vineyard departs. “Never wait for a ferry,” a ferry staffer with a weathered face told us. Live and learn.

We arrived a few minutes before the 3:45 ferry but decided to pick up some bakery goods and then take the 4:10 ferry, as planned. Turns out the 4:10 was cancelled due to a lack of passengers so now we’re in the ferry tix office waiting for the 5 pm ferry. “

French bakery

On this damp, grey foggy day, we drove about 1 hour 45 minutes from our friends in Branford,CT to my friend Ed’s in Cranston, where we caught up at Seven Stars Bakery over ready made but good baguette sandwiches.

Then we drove another 1.5 hours to the Palmer Ave ferry car park in Falmouth, dropped off the car and took us bus 9 minutes to Woods Hole and the ferry.

There are two popular bakeries here, each with a following. We went to the austere French one recommended by a friend who lives here: Maison Villatte. The homey one recommended by other locals is Pie in the Sky, which has excellent sandwiches and clam chowder. We also drove briefly through the pretty cape cod town of Falmouth.

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Row 34/fort point, Finn/Salem, toscana/Cambridge – Boston dining

First two days here are for work so had some lunch meeting dining. Good crab cakes at Row 34 (and ridiculously expensive parking – $42 for day) in Fort Point area, seaside in Boston with lots of glittering high glass and steel buildings (Including the contemporary art museum.) Flour bakery is a great lunch and coffee spot near my publisher’s office on Farnsworth.

Harvard square installation 🥲

Finn for seafood in Salem. Lunch today at Toscano in Cambridge – good pasta and thin crust pizza near Radcliffe’s Schlesinger library where I had a great morning looking at old diaries including one written on toilet paper. Single ply! Also went to an excellent craft gallery: Cambridge Artists Cooperative. And saw a sobering tribute to the people kidnapped in Israel.

Yes, a diary written on toilet paper!

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Ocean House in Gloucester; Rockport Fish shack and point; Harbor Light Inn, 5 corners Kitchen, Historic district along Washington Street in Marblehead — , north shore of Boston

There is nothing like old friends and it was a particularly wonderful treat to see old friends Art and Nell after some very trying times. On a warm fall day we wandered around several lovely towns along the coast north of Boston on Cape Ann (Gloucester/Rockport), soaking in the scenery and catching up after over two years apart.

Rockport

We started at a little coffee shop in Gloucester, which seemed a tad less touristy than Rockport, but both are on breathtaking spots on the ocean. We splurged on a lobster roll (hot, buttered) at the Fish shack in Rockport, which has big picture windows overlooking the water and walked on the big rocks that form a walkway into the water. Lots of art galleries, old Yankee monuments and wood frame shingled homes.

In Marblehead, my favorite, we walked down narrow streets lined with multi colored (powder blue, navy blue, mustard yellow, rust red, Forest green) wood shuttered and shingled homes from the 1600s to the 1800s with historic plaques telling us who lived here and there (yeoman et. Al.). Our friends found a charming inn in historic Marblehead (Harbor Light) with an outdoor veranda overlooking the small garden and pool. (They also found a good is place in Gloucester: Ocean House Hotel at Bass Rocks.

Rockport
Rockport

Harbor Light was a Great place for an evening drink, admiring the sky and stars. The occasional flight heading to or from Logan, I gather. We had a good dinner at the popular Five Corners Kitchen in Marblehead.

Harbor inn snug bar

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Return to Somerville, tatte & blue bottle coffee/Harvard square, wedding at habitat wildlife sanctuary/Belmont and party bus to Lilypad in Cambridge 

Alex and RoseI think I found the triple decker house (#30?) I lived in for a year in the early 1980s in Somerville. Avon Street is only one block long but my memory is rusty. The street didn’t look much different than when I lived there. A mix of tarted up and faded houses.

Meeting Harris, age 2

Onto Harvard Square where we walked past Widener Library, where I used to do my freelance pieces, using a borrowed library card from a friend who was a real Harvard student. We stopped for coffee at the pristine Blue Bottle Cafe and a delicious tuna sandwich and flat bread at the very busy Tatte cafe/bakery.

Return to Somerville

Alex and Rose’s wedding was on the lovely landscaped grounds of the Habitat Wildlife Sanctuary near a swanky wooded residential area in Belmont. Old mansion, lovely patio and grounds. The weather held and the newlyweds are so happy and adorable. We piled into a bus with younger and older guests for an after party at lilypad, a small funky club in Cambridge’s Inman square. Great music by a DJ who was also a great dancer. I danced a little but was nervous about overdoing it with my still-recovering broken arm. Returned to the Homestead suites Hilton in Arlington around 1 am. Hotel was nice but a pricey $250 a night and hardly needed the living room with the fake fireplace (turned on with a light switch) that came with our bedroom. But it was convenient to the wedding and good to stay in the same place as other family members.

Harvard Yard

Now driving thru EZpass lane in  New Hampshire on I-95. We had to pay $59 for the pass from dollar rental because the unavoidable toll roads in Boston no longer accept any other payment, if you don’t have an EZ pass you don’t pay and you get fined…

Lilypad, Cambridge

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Taranta/Boston and O’Hare dining/Chicago 

I returned to the terrific peruvian/Italian restaurant in Boston’s north end last night for a happy occasion- our nephew Alex’s rehearsal dinner, a day before his wedding. The food was delicious – most noteably melt in your mouth steak in Skewers (even the Nebraskans in attendance – Alex’s bride is from Lincoln – were impressed) and a killer pisco sour ($16 splurge).

Our long wait to transfer planes in rainy Chicago was brightened by the nearness of our fav o’hare ding spot, torte, where we shared a spicy Cubano sandwich. I noticed one of the “local” food suppliers is kalona organic in Iowa. Also found an interesting looking vending machine option.

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free T ride from the airport, The paramount, bar Lola — Boston

imageI really did try to pay for my T ride from Logan Airport to Beacon Hill but failed and was even admonished by a transit guy in the process. Outside Logan, I got on the Silver Line (which, oddly, is a bus not a subway)  which was advertised as free. When I got off at South station to switch to the red line to Charles street I couldn’t find anywhere to pay. I even went through the exit, tied to figure out th self pay machine. When I explained to the transit guy what I was trying to do, he said “you shouldn’t have gone out. here just go back in” and he let me back through without laying.

“No wonder the T is losing money” at least two Bostonians exclaimed when I explained what happened. The same ging happened a day later when I unexpectedly found myself at the airport, needing to return to Back Bay where It had a great visit with my best friend from high school Polly and her husband Jamie.

I didn’t get time to explore the city (much of my time was spent at a work meeting in Worcester) but did get to Bar Lola for tapas (in back bay) and the great Paramount, a diner/ coffee shop(since 1937!) on Charles Street. And I got to  see Charles street,  which always reminded me of London when I lived in Boston in the mid 1980s.  Pulling my roller bag along the brick sidewalks, making a loud rumble, I felt like a young traveler again. Sort of.

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