Category Archives: 3) DESTINATIONS — in the U.S.

Bombing in Boston – words cannot express…

Just heard about the bombing at the Boston Marathon and trying to process – if that’s even possible – and make sure that various friends and relatives who live in the area are okay. We just got word that our niece Nora M. (not our niece Nora F. who goes to school at U Mass in Amherst) is in her office building downtown, which is under lock down. From what I can tell, one of the bombs went off about five minutes from where my best friend from high school lives in Back Bay (I visited her there last fall and we walked on a beautiful day to the T station near what is now a bomb scene.

I remember fondly watching the Boston Marathon  when I lived in Boston in the early 1980’s – and the thought of a bombing going off in that crowd is a little too real.  I was thinking about the marathon today after hearing it would include a special tribute to the victims of the Sandy Hook school shooting in Connecticut. I am at a loss for words.

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The Boston Marathon Logo

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New Le’s Chinese Bar-B-Que in Des Moines – not, alas, Honolulu’s Char Siu House

  • Le's Chinese Bar-B-Que

Wandering around Honolulu’s Chinatown in January 2011, I chanced upon an amazingly good Chinese BBQ (known in Chinese as Char siu, meat seasoned with five spice, honey and other things that turn the outside skin or meat bright red)  at a hole in the wall aptly named Char Siu House (photo below), with a small counter and butcher’s block and maybe three card tables for people who want to eat in rather than carry out (like me.) I had some delicious pork, moist, full of flavor, crispy red skin. As I was eating, a food tour suddenly arrived and the guide noted that this was the Honolulu’s best Chinese BBQ place, or some such.

With this memory in mind, I finally tried New Le’s BBQ here in Des Moines (photo above)- in what passes for a Chinese ,or more accurately, an Asian,  neighborhood – on Second Avenue. (The street has  a popular Asian market, Double Dragon, that I go to every once in awhile for hard-to-find-elsewhere items and just because it’s an interesting place full of unfamiliar foods. There’s also a few Thai and Vietnamese Po restaurants.)  Le’s  has been around for years and an Asian friend recommended it. But it looked so uninviting from the outside that I passed it by – until yesterday.  I was surprised to find it was far more cheerful inside. Instead of a drab butcher shop, I found a slightly less drab restaurant with lots of empty tables (midday on a Saturday), a lit-up display on the wall of the Chinese entrees available and a case full of bbq-ed meat that left little to the imagination (still-intact ducks with spindly necks and heads, dangling from hooks,  looking like they’d been flattened by a  steam-roller; a pigs head). I ordered some duck, pork and ribs – and we tried them last night. The red crispy ribs were best – moist well-seasoned meat, tasty-edible skin.  The pork was first runner up – moist meat with a smokey flavor but lots of fat and crispy skin that wasn’t as edible as it looked. Even more of the same with the duck. Oh well.

Picture of Char Siu House, Honolulu Chinatown

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RIP Boston Phoenix, my former employer

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In 1982, I moved back to the U.S. after wandering the world for awhile. The Boston Phoenix gave me safe harbor and for that I will always be grateful. The paper gave me some steady freelance assignments and even found me a grunt work part time job doing something or other so I could pay my rent – a room I shared with four people in a tripledecker in Somerville, a room I found through the Phoenix’s classified ads. So it was sad to read today that the Phoenix is folding.

My year working at the Phoenix was one of the hardest I can recall, as I barely eked out a living. I remember taking a shoebox of receipts to an accountant who prepared taxes for various Phoenix people. I was terrified I would be saddled with a big tax bill but the accountant informed me that I had earned a whopping $6,000 and the IRS would be paying me. But I met some really talented people at the Phoenix, some of whom went out of their way to help a young writer…Gail Caldwell, who later won a Pulitzer at the Globe was one of them. Editor Richard Gaines was another. Beyond that, the Phoenix had a distinctive voice and niche in Boston, truly an alternative to the Globe. RIP old friend.

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Thumb paintings “all thumbs” at the Phoenix Airport

Hancock Art

Yes, we also had some time to kill in the Phoenix Airport on our way back to Des Moines earlier this week and there were plenty of art exhibits to pass the time. One of the odder ones was tucked away in an out-of-the-way corner near the Starbucks on Level 2 of Terminal 3  – 2″ x 2″ Thumbnail portraits, quite literally, by Roberta Hancock. They are individual oil paintings of thumbs dressed in various garbs – a Rastafarian thumb, a nun thumb, a cowboy thumb, a bride thumb. They made me laugh. The Phoenix Airport Museum’s collection has 600 works and 35 exhibit spaces scattered across six buildings. How amazing.

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Beyond bread, gabby giffords, Arizona shuttle — Tucson

After finding a long wait for lunch at Tohono Chul, a lovely garden spot in Tucson, we ended up at another favorite, albeit less scenic, lunch spot nearby, Beyond Bread ( where’re I must remember in the future to get the tuna melt). It is hard to go to Beyond Bread without thinking about the horrific shooting that left several people dead and gravely injured then-congresswoman Gabrielle Giffords a few years ago. The restaurant is right across from the Safeway market where the shooting occurred. As it turns out, several tv trucks were parked outside the Safeway as we were leaving the restaurant and we found out from this morning’s paper that Giffords yesterday returned for the first time to the site, where there is now a memorial outside the market. She and her husband Mark Kelly are working to drum up support for gun control measures. Here is hoping they succeed!

It is 8:25 am and we are waiting for the Arizona shuttle to take us to the Phoenix airport, the first leg of a daylong trek to get home to Iowa. Ridiculous to think we won’t be home until 7:30 pm Arizona time. And irritating that the shuttle folks insisted we be here by 8:15 so the shuttle can leave on the dot at 8:30. (which means of course that my dad got us here at 8:00). When we arrived, we were told the shuttle won’t even arrive until 8:30 – 8:40. So we have 40 minutes to enjoy the view and smell (not) …some sort of industrial site across the road. Grrrr…

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Scenes from the romero pools trail, Tucson

These are scenes from along the trail to Romero Pools at Catalina State Park in Oro Valley. The hike took us about four hours round trip, with some challenging spots where we had to navigate some uneven jagged rocks but overall it was fairly easy. And lots of classic dessert scenery. Dinner was at vivace, a reliably good Italian restaurant in st. Philips plaza. Good Veal Piccatta, seafood soup, yellow snapper with crabmeat special.

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Catalina State park, Rosa’s Mexican Restaurant — Tucson

006We have tried many Mexican restaurants in Tucson over the years and rarely remember them. Rosa’s (on East Fort Lowell at Campbell) we will remember. There’s a reason it’s been around since 1970 and why it was packed during lunch on a Monday. The food is really good and although I’m no expert, I’m told its quite authentic too. I rarely find carne seca – which I associate with the famous El Charro restaurant here – but Rosa’s made a darned good carne seca. It’s different than El Charro’s – with grilled onions and peppers that gives it a slightly different flavor and makes it a little less dry beef. The refried beans were different than others I’ve had too – starting with the color, a rose-colored red. Creamier. Good flavor. And the guacamole was also creamier, paler, more seasoning. The salsa was runny but packed a punch. Good limeade too. And tacos that have deep-fried shells. We’ll be back.

For years, we have hiked at Catalina State Park (the photo above with my son Noah and sister-in-law Heather is from around 2008, the one below with my husband is from around 2009) which has a very easy, very scenic loop through classic dessert terrain (I can still hear my mom’s voice telling us which plant is saguaro, agave, ocotillo, pale verde or cactus paddles). Sadly, a young guy from Minnesota was missing when we arrived – he hadn’t been seen since the previous morning when he set off on a solo hike. Television trucks were camped out in the parking lot and an occasional police van drove past us on the trail. A helicopter flew low above us. Last year, I hiked at the park on my own for the first time and remember being a bit nervous. I stuck to the main loop trail which has lots of hikers and ended up meeting a woman who I hiked half of the trail with. We woke up this morning to the welcome news that the hiker had surfaced north of the state park and was ok. Today returned to the park and took a four hour hike to Romano pools. Classic dessert scenery. 009

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warm and sunny tucson – biking along “the wash” lunch at Choice Greens

We arrived late Saturday in Phoenix by plane and then drove 1.5 hours south to Tucson where we awoke the next morning to bright blue sky, mountains, warm sun –  a nice change from cold snowy Iowa. Eager to be outdoors, we rode along “the Wash” in north Tucson for about 14 miles, stopping at St. Philip’s Plaza on Campbell ave. to browse at the weekend farmers market (most interesting item: worm compost, a strange grey-colored bag of dirt) then lunch at what was first called “Chopped” but is now known as “Choice Greens” – a design-your-own salad place that remains good, whatever its name. On today to hike at Catalina State Park up the road in Oro Valley.

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Why is it so expensive to rent a car at the Phoenix airport? And is Fox rental ok?

Little did I know when I booked cheap plane tickets to fly to Phoenix (rather than to Tucson, our ultimate destination) that we’d have to spend an arm and a leg on a car rental but it’s starting to look that way. In Nashville, we rented a car for $22 a day – our bill for three days came to just under $70. In Phoenix, the mainstay companies like Thrifty were charging $290 for a week (we need the car for only 5 days) which wasn’t great but that turned out to be the “base rate” – with various fees the total comes to a whooping $430. (Which we didn’t find out until we actually reserved the car.)  So we are looking at smaller rental companies like Fox, Payless and Sixt. I reserved a car from Fox and was assured that the final rate is $262. Of course I’m a little suspicious – since I’ve never heard of this company. I’ve looked them up on various travel websites and they get mixed reviews but generally okay ones in Phoenix. The other issue is our flight gets in very late – close to midnight so some companies aren’t open at that hour (sadly that includes Enterprise, which gave us the good deal in Nashville.) We also get in too late (11:51 p.m.) to probably make the last shuttle van to Tucson at 12:15 a.m. NEWS FLASH: just heard from my dad and his wife – they’ve decided to pick us up at the airport, which is very kind, especially given the late hour. So no car rental!

All this reminds me of a trip many years ago – 25 or so – when we rented a car from “Sisters Rental Car” in Morocco. It turned out okay although we were a bit nervous, especially driving the car – which was a flimsy number that looked like an over-sized sardine can with a wire coat hanger in the dashboard, that served as the gear shift – way up into the Atlas Mountains south of Fez.


Toubkal Mountain in Toubkal National Park in the High Atlas

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Dining at The Pharmacy in Nashville

2013nashvillephoto(21)On our last night in Nashville, we ate at The Pharmacy in – you guessed it – East Nashville. Its menu is limited primarily to burgers, brats, fries – and the ones we tried were very good (a cheese burger with three types of cheese, prepared medium rare, with a sweetish-potato batter perhaps bun; a brat loaded with not-too-tangy sauerkraut on a bun that didn’t hold the loaded brat well but was tasty; well-cooked sweet potato and regular fries – especially good when we requested a hot batch to replace the lukewarm batch originally served to us.) The place had a fun neighborhood vibe – waiters wearing plaid flannel shirts, lots of wood and stamped tin, indie music in the atmosphere.
We didn’t have the energy to go return to the Five Spot (see photo) nearby for dance night – which didn’t start until 10:30 or, we gather, really get going until midnight. But I was tempted. Who are these people partying into the wee hours of Sunday and Monday night? Musicians perhaps. My husband noted that there was live music in the food courts at Nashville airport when he got there midday yesterday (none that I saw/heard at 9 a.m., alas) and he’s never seen so many people walking through an airport with guitar cases. cool!

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