Category Archives: 3) DESTINATIONS — in the U.S.

Quick trip to Phoenix- Barrio Cafe,Detroit Hussle, Hyatt Regency

A very quick trip to Phoenix but long enough to try some creative Mexican food at the Barrio Cafe north of the Hyatt (where D. has a meeting this week.) The place was fun, lots of interesting people including a woman sitting at the bar who has written a book about fixing up a house in the “west village” neighborhood of Detroit. She and her husband moved to my hometown from Brooklyn, so I guess this Detroit renaissance is really happening. The book is called Detroit Hussle. We also met a cute young couple from Australia (Perth, as it happens, which I have a soft spot for because I had two friends from Perth at my kibbutz years ago who I ended up traveling with in Greece.) Interesting to hear the places they are visiting during a month-long trip to “see America.” They were in Phoenix because they went to the Grand Canyon. Next stop Vegas. All other stops were on the coasts.

The food at rhe barrio cafe was interesting. We liked the guacamole (made with pomegranate seeds) and the long cooked pork, the margaritas and horchata (a light milky drink that came in a pop bottle). The chicken mole and corn appetizer were too rich for me. Slow service, as forewarned but a good live band playing what sounded like merenge not Mexican music.

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Filed under DINING, Phoenix

When in Miami!

An invaluable list from my stepdaughter Emma, who recently visited Miami, will come in handy during our visit next March!
Miami Restaurants

LITTLE HAVANA:
Versailles, Cuban Diner
Famous place

Islas Canaraias

Palacio de los Jugos delicious juices!!
Fruit Stand, coffee shop, and Pork

Vicki Bakery
Cuban Pasteries

El Mago de las Frigas
Cuban Burger place that Obama went to

El Pub
Old Man, cuban memorabilia on the walls

La Camarenera we loved this place
Fried lobster or shrimp

Try Mamey Milkshakes, Papaya Milkshakes, Chicharritas de Plantanos

SOUTH BEACH:
Tap tap room: Haitian food. The atmosphere is wild and the food is amazing. I had this stew with okra and cornmeal. We also had the conch fritters. Highly recommend!
Pizza Rustica

La Sandwicherie good quick place for lunch, right off beach

Try the Saucisson Sec or the Seafood Sandwich

Peurto Sugua- we went here twice. Best Cuban sandwich I’ve ever had.
Best Cuban Sandwich

11th Street Diner- meh, not that good.
24 Hours

DESIGN DISTRICT:
Sugar Raw Bar Grill
Happy Hour (Drinks are $7) and Tapas
DOWNTOWN:
Il Gambiano

Prime 112 (steak)
Prime Italian

OTHER STUFF:

Michael’s Genuine

Sazon Cuban

Yardbird
Southern Food, Fried Chicken.

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highlights and misc: Jackson Hole, SLCity and beyond June 2016

After returning to paved road near Antelope Flats

After returning to paved road near Antelope Flats

Best Luxury Resort we cannot afford to stay at again: Amangani in Jackson Hole

Best air bnb we can afford to stay at again (if it’s still an air bnb): Kelly, Wyoming (I won’t reveal more than that.)

Ansel Adams photo site (with people and via cellphone)

Ansel Adams photo site (with people and via cellphone)

Best Airbnb dog: Grace (in Kelly)

Best Airbnb host and kids: Kelly again

Best breakfast out: huevos rancheros at Nora’s Fish Creek in Wilson

Best breakfast in: Kelly air bnb (brioche and granola from Persephone bakery; Pearl street bagels)

Best breakfast food and scenery: the overlook at the Amangani

Best room patio and view: amangani (and best electric powered window shades)

Best deck (top and bottom floor)  views: Kelly

Best sandwiches: The Kelly at Gros Ventre (grow vant) roast beef, Vermont cheddar, on marble rye with horseradish and spicy mustard.

Best raspberry milkshake: Le Beau’s at Bear Lake

Best ethnic fare: Mazza (middle eastern) in salt lake. (The Himalayan kitchen wasn’t bad but their medium is spicy in our book)

Best steak and s’mores and band: rehearsal dinner, Spring creek ranch

Best Pool: amangani, preferably all to ourselves at night under a full moon or at daybreak with my sweet niece Lucy

Bluest Waters: Bear Lake (Utah/Idaho)

Best Hike: hard to say…Jenny lake inspiration point to cascade canyon, maybe although ski lake hike from Wilson good and hike from our bnb along the rushing river

Best drive: again hard to say 191-89 out along Teton range or gros ventre road east of Kelly or 89 between Logan and garden city Utah

Near AnselAdams shot, Tetons

Near AnselAdams shot, Tetons

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Filed under Utah, Wyoming

Air bnbs in Utah and Wyoming: Pros and a few cons

SLC air bnb 1st street

SLC air bnb 1st street

This was our first trip relying on air bnb lodging and overall, a very positive experience. Kind of takes me back to staying at B and Bs in England in the early 1980s, when they were an affordable spare room in someone’s house rather than a pricey  inn experience with sometimes uncomfortable shared breakfast dining with other guests.

At their best, the air bnbs are not only affordable and interesting accommodation but offer a slight glimpse into how life is lived in the place you’re visiting, which is what I like the most about them. You get to talk to people, find out what life is like, the politics, schools, neighborhood concerns. And you get great tips on where to hike and eat and shop,  what to see.

SLC 1901 bnb

SLC 1901 bnb

The two places we stayed in Salt Lake City were each run by attractive single women who each seemed to have helpful boyfriends and a strong fixer upper mentality and design sense  (which may be a functioning of what I look for when thumbing through the listings). Both were in leafy old neighborhoods revived by young people, in early 1900’s homes, with old wood, glass, brick,  but also contemporary art and furnishings (except for the claw foot tubes, which are charming but tricky for older folks in particular to get in and out of.) Both were about the same price $84/$75 for a room for two. WHile the first one had lots of antiques and walls filled with paintings (the owner paints) the second one was very spare with mostly white walls, muslin curtains, earth-toned nubby hall liners, very Scandinavian (the owner is from Sweden). The first one gave us free reign of her kitchen and refrigerator for breakfast; the second one didn’t offer any food  (but there was a good coffee house, the red moose, a block away.) With each, we had lots of freedom and no overbearing hosts, just the opposite. It was sort of amazing that both hosts left while we were there. pretty trusting considering that we were total strangers. (Although I guess we didn’t look too dodgy, and “discriminating” hosts can decline guests, which I gather can cause discrimination issues and charges of racism, sexism, other isms.)

Kelly air bnb

Kelly air bnb

A few downsides: for older or physically limited travelers, hauling suitcases up steep wooden staircases can be challenging; then there is the aforementioned claw foot bathtubs. And at our second SLC bnb, there was a rather dangerous (in the dark) sheer drop staircase at the end of the hall next to the bathroom. One false step during an evening bathroom run could lead to a tumble. (I would have been particularly worried if Traveling with a young child.)

Kelly deck

Kelly deck

Our third experience in Kelly was a whole other ballgame, since we rented an entire house for a family vacation rather than a room for two. It wasn’t particularly cheap and was not unlike other rentals we have done through VRBO and HomeAway and way back in the widespread pre-Internet 1990s, through newspaper classified listings. But we got to know the owners and their kids and they had tons of great suggestions and when we left, we felt like we were saying goodbye to friends (unlike the SLC digs where we never really said goodbye, we just let ourselves out in the morning and left the key behind).

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Filed under LODGING, Salt Lake City, Wyoming

Kelly Wyoming: gros ventre road, deli, Jenny Lake, Kelly warm spring

gros ventre road

gros ventre road

Still in paradise and blogging from the rooftop deck of our cottage, with green pastures and sun still shining strong at 6:39 pm above the jagged, snow-capped Tetons. YEsterday we took a scenic drive conveniently located just outside Kelly along gros ventre road, stopping at Kelly Warm Spring which unlike most of the bodies of water here is warm enough to wade into (although there is a little E. coli risk we learned), then drove up and up a rustic road past dude ranches and forests and red rocks the reminded us of Sedona, stopping at lower slide and upper slide lake overlooks. Stunning views. We turned around awhile after the road turned to gravel.  We had excellent sandwiches at the one business in Kelly, a deli and coffees shop called Kelly at the Gros Ventre, one of three cabins (the other two are the post office and the home of the deli owners, who are very cheerful welcoming folks.

gros ventre road

gros ventre road

dirck and I wandered into Jackson to pick up provisions, stopping for brioche at Persephone Bakery and at Pearl street Bagels and Smiths grocery store.  It stays light so late in the day that we had time for a walk along the roaring river behind Kelly, accompanied by Grace, the sweet dog. we grilled out for dinner and the teenagers who live here gave our “kids” a tour of their treehouse. THis place has been an incredible find – owned by Amber and Michael Hoover. ITs also very easy to get to the airport, which is even closer from here than from Jackson (although you’d never know it.)

After returning to paved road near Antelope Flats

After returning to paved road near Antelope Flats

We had a great day exploring Grand Teton Park although it start d on a somewhat nerve wracking note when we found ourselves driving on a very rutted gravel road, paralleling the Teton range. We were very happy to return to paved road, finally. WE took the boat across Jenny Lake and hiked 2.5 hours up past inspiration point and onto Cascade Canyon. One of the best hikes I’ve done, not only because of the alpine scenery but the thoroughly pleasant weather. 79s, sunny, breezy, no humidity. it started a bit uphill but nothing too steep, and the trail went across and along a rushing torrent of aqua ice blue water into a canyon lined with vast craggy mountains, some with waterfalls spilling down from crevices.

Ansel Adams photo site (with people and via cellphone)

Ansel Adams photo site (with people and via cellphone)

After a return boat ride, we took the pretty wooded two lane moose Wilson road to Teton village and had a late lunch at tthe Mangey Moose, overlooking the ski slopes and tram. I am glad I decided not to stay in a condo there. our place is much more charming. We drove back north onto highway 191 and passed two famous overlooks, one where Ansel Adams took his iconic photo of the snake river snaking in front of the Teton range. And we finally saw some wildlife– buffalo, antelopes, but no moose. Next time. And I hope there is a next time.

Cascade Canyon above Jenny Lake

Cascade Canyon above Jenny Lake

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Morning in Kelly, Wyoming – recap of wedding and drive from Salt Lake

Blue sky, green pastures, snow capped jagged mountains pushing up against this tiny town, about 20 minutes north of Jackson Hole. That’s the view from the second floor deck of the rustic “cottage” we are staying in for a few days. it is very different from the Amangani, the fanciest place we have ever stayed. But it’s just as spectacular in its own way. I cannot get enough of the landscape here or the cool, clear air. Or the alpine vegetation, the shimmering Aspen leaves, the meadows with yellow, blue and purple flowers.

A rooster is crowing outside but otherwise it’s quiet. A few chickens are scurrying around and a dog running free. We are on a little compound in this cottage filled with Afghani rungs, animal pellets, wood walls, ceramic tiles…tasteful , warm, the castoffs of a wanderer (in this case, a wildlife photographer who used to be a hot journalist in far away places). Cannot wait to explore the tiny town and the mountains, lakes and hot springs nearby.

For future reference: places we’ve been in the last three days: Salt Lake City (Mormon Temple at night, Mazza for middle eastern food) Natalie’s Airbnb on 1st between N and M Streets; 4.5 hour drive to Jackson from Salt Lake on 89 off I 15 thru Logan (home of Utah state), Garden City, Utah (LaBeau’s of Bear Lake) for raspberry shakes and even better, a reunification n with my niece Lucy and her parents), turquoise blue waters of Bear Lake, a little Caribbean in the Rockies, driving through northeast Utah into southeast Idaho past some tiny real towns as opposed to tourist towns) like Montpelier and then into Wyoming through Afton (thru the antler archway and past the ticky tacky log cabin motel where Lolita, of Nabokov fame, holed up with her creepy old man) and then onto Jackson (the amazingly elegant Amangani Resort, nearby Spring Creek Ranch, dancing to great bands and djs, swimming with Dirck in a long stone pool at night under a full moon with stars, hiking north of Wilson on the ski lake trail) huevos rancheros at Nora’s Fish Creek, a float on the snake river, the Million Dollar Cowboy Bar.)

Today I’d like to see a moose.

 

 

 

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Filed under Utah, Wyoming

A first and last (for awhile) no-connection flight on southwest back from DC to dsm

imageWell this is weird and kind of nice but it won’t be happening for some time. My southwest flight from DC was almost direct to dsm. the plane stopped at Chicago’s midway airport but is the same plane going to dsm. Never done that before. And sadly won’t again because Southwest is replacing its Des Moines-Chicago flights with dsm-st. Louis flights. Oh well. I will miss the affordable flights to Chicago and to midway (goodbye Manny’s corned beef too) but one good thing: it appears that there will be Sunday flights to DC from dsm via St. Louis (there weren’t any via Chicag0.)

Two more good meals in DC, last night at graffiato, the top chef personality mike Isabella’s inventive Italian small plates and pizza joint near gallery Place. And tonight superb crab cakes at legal seafood in Reagan national airport. Plane is filling up again so signing off.

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Filed under airfare, Washington D.C.

More DC with Myra– a. Litteri, Le caprice DC, Zombie donut/coffee

 Back to bitter cold wind but at least it was sunny and after brief rain yesterday pm there was a stunning rainbow out side our sons’ row house on Meridian Place. We started with a morning pastry around the block on 14th st. at Le Caprice and then drove to the FDR Memorial, one of my favorites, where we found a handful of cherry blossoms still hanging on in bloom (a Myra must!) and a statue that seemed to have been added of FDR unambiguously in a wheelchair. Then onto thE MLK memorial, a short walk away. It always impresses me how accessible these memorials are – you just pull-up a short distance away, park for free, and walk a short distance (especially on an unseasonably cold Tuesday in April ), but I am guessing this is by design. This is the people’s city, right? WE were also struck, while reading the quotes at both memorials, how much the quality of our so-called leaders (republicans) oratory and thinking has declined since the era of FDR and MLK.

For lunch we went to Union market and then walked around a. Litteri, an old jam packed Italian market nearby. The area reminded me less of DC and more of detroits eastern market. Quick visit for coffee to Zombie cafe near the Columbia heights metro station and a sad farewell to myra who hit the road to return to Connecticut. Loved our visit!!image

Ps tips for dog shedding frimandrea: Sergeants des heeding brush on Amazon and swiffer for dog hair!

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Back to Columbia Heights with myra! MiCuba cafe and DC Noodles

imageimageimageReliving my youth with my college roommate Myra at our sons’ shared house in DC’s Columbia Heights neighborhood. They have introduced us to more great dining within walking distance of their house. DC Noodles on U street (pad see ew!) and Mi Cuba (Cuban roast pork, fried pork cubes, cassava, plantains, flan, mojito, sangria!) Great company and food. Myra and I had brunch at La Coupe on 11th street (hash brown bowl!) then walked all around the area down 14th street to u street and then over 8th street and the rapidly gentrifying Shaw neighborhood (warby Parker, dodge city, Salina …two Kansas names, no less). Much warmer day than yesterday morning when I watched Noah run in the cherry blossom run on the mall. Sunny but bitter cold wind. Didn’t expect to be that cold. But such a treat to be hear. Sunday the millennial cooked an elaborate and delicious brunch. Three of four house mates moms happened to be on hand, and then a bunch of visiting friends, maybe 15 people total. We drank mimosas, did the Sunday crossword puzzle online on the tv screen and sat around talking for hours. Loved it!

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Woodberry Kitchen, American Visionary Art museum, Hotel Monaco, light rail to Airport — Baltimore

imageimagei spent most of my two days in Baltimore in a hotel meeting room, as planned since it was a work trip, but the few trips I took outside the lovely if slightly faded Hotel Monaco were great, thanks in part to glorious weather— sunshine, high 70s. Dinner was at the Woodberry Kitchen in an interesting old neighborhood near Hampden. The outpost of a James Beard winner, the place completely lived up to the hype and was worth the minor aggravation of having to reserve a table weeks in advance and nearer to the date, confirm more than once that We would show up.

imageFlavor is the word that comes to mind from our dining experience. The food wasn’t particularly sophisticated or complicated or showy. just the opposition. The presentation was basic and the entrees clever at times but not kooky. instead the emphasis was on ingredients – delicious carrots, fresh oysters, special salt from West Virginia (yes West Virginia.) And the dishes we had were often old classics dine the best way possible, so the deviled eggs, for examples were super fresh tasking eggs with a super creamy whipped egg yolk, some crispy bits of cooked ham and some magical pepper. The oysters were roasted in a wood fired oven and topped with a creamy crabmeat sauce; the meatballs were soft and tasty, covered with a tomato and ricotta cheese. My pan fried (or wood fired oven roasted?) chicken looked like a brown leather shoe sole but tasted unlike any chicken I’ve had (as our enthusiastic and knowledgable server promised.) Somehow it manage to be crispy on the outside and moist and full of, yes, flavor, inside. it was served simply atop wilted collard greens and some sweet roaste carrots.aso excellent: shortribs, scallops, beets (according to my sister who likes beets) and a delicious cranberry crumble pie made with whole cranberries and oatmeal).

imagethe restaurant itself is really cool, a warm welcoming old mill with a very high ceiling, lots of the original brick, stone and wood. the servers wore plaid shirts and denim, looking sometimes like north woods lumberjacks. Next door was a cool glass blowing workspace and gallery (hence the photo above.)

Today I finally got to the American visionary art museum near federal hill and the inner harbor, which has long been on your list and it terrific — three old brick warehouse buildings full of painstaking, often strange art by self-taught, often mentally ill artists. i recognized a few artists — Wayne coyne (of the band The Flaming Lips, who we saw painting the sidewalk in Oklahoma City…his work is above) and Elizabeth “grandma” Layton, who served us lemonade in her home in small town Kansas many years ago and gave me a rare signed poster of her work that hangs in my kitchen!)

I ended up taking the light rail for $1.70 from the convention center downtown to the airport and stopped for a crabcake at Phillips, conveniently near the southwest gates.

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