Category Archives: 2) Frequent Destinations

Chelsea Physic Garden, Ottolengi, Islington

Another superb day in London, the weather not too hot or too cold, sun popping out and in, putting sunglasses on and off, scarves on and off throughout the day. I met another longtime friend M. At Sloane Square tube station and we sauntered along the Kings Road, stopped for a cappacchino (tea for me) at a smart cafe, Manicomo Poco, browsing through the modern art at the free saatchi gallery and then going to the lovely Chelsea Physic Garden, London’s oldest botanical garden! about 340 years old, hidden in prime real estate along Cheyene walk beside the Thames. beautiful spot with gardens organized by the flowers and herbs medicinal purposes. Cool idea. there is also a pretty cafe in an old fashioned airy dining room with tables outside in the garden. We had delicious salmon baked in some sort of puff pastry with currants, a tangy gruyere and tomato pie, salads, homemade lemonade.

Next stop Islington in northwest London where we had the best meal of all at Yotam Ottolenghi’s flagship restaurant. the restaurant is small and airy and down to earth and was full at 6 pm on a Wednesday. Good thing we booked our table weeks ago. the food was as good as it looks in the Ottolenghi cookbook I use back in Iowa. We shared four small plates that were substantial portions, each excellent. I cannot remember having such devious eggplant aka aubergine, thick slices cooked perfectly in olive oil, seasoned with some mysterious favors, moist, not bitter or dry, topped with a cool yoghurt sauce. Fabulous. I will no doubt be trying and probably failing to duplicate it for months to come in Iowa. My other favorite plate I couldn’t begin to duplicate…zucchini flowers stuffed with a creamy white ricotta, and part of the zuccini itself, lightly battered and fried tempura style. The desserts were fantastic. We picked from a wide selection on displace, a wedge of moist rum and chocolate cake, with only a faint rum taste and a creamy tangy lemon marscapone tart. Perfect. Prompt and pleasant service too.
I took the no. 4 bus from the angel tube stop to Waterloo, sitting in my favorite seat, top deck, front seat, with great views of some of my old haunts, The Barbican, where M. Used to live, Shoe Lane where M. And I once shared offices, along Fleet Street, which we knew back in its newspaper days. Across the Thames past Big Ben and another place I worked many years ago, the Houses of Parliament. magical still and always for me.

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Filed under DINING, London, Uncategorized

South Bank, Covent Garden, Soho, Mortlaker…London!

Wow, London is hopping. As I walked along the South Bank of the Thames on a sunny but not too hot June week day, I was amazed at how many tourists there were, throngs of strollers, large groups,of school kids in matching uniforms, lots of people speaking German or “American,” buskers and street people, cafes and pubs packed with seemingly carefree people like me (if only).

In the four years since I was here last, there are even more cool high design bridges across the Thames, beyond the now sturdy once-wobbly bridge and more to possibly come, according to a story in the Evening Standard, I think, about a newly designed bridge inspired by The High Line in NY that would be heavily landscaped (how cool is that?) The Tate Modern is under construction and It appears, expansion so the enormous turbine hall was cordoned off. Interesting modern high rises have popped up all around it. So much so that I can hardly find once prominent
Landmarks like Southwark Cathedral. I did find the Borough Market which was near London bridge, not Blackfrairs as I remembered and I had some Indian street food.

Walking about 15 minutes to Covent Garden, I found even a denser concentration of tourists clogging the streets, watching the street performers, eating at the restaurants, crowding into the shops. My favorite scene was a group of about eight women in black full length robes, their faces almost completely veiled, eating macaroons at an outlet of Laduree, the famous Paris bakery that I fear is turning into a chain. (There is also one on Madison Avenue in NYC). in Neal’s Yard I was glad to see that the famous cheese shop of the same name is alive and well. the small place was packed with gorgeous cheeses and customers. Alas the hippie dippie bakery in the yard is long gone.

In Soho, on Greek Street, I found one of my favorite French cafes, Maison Bertaux which was larger and more elegant than when i visited last but just as as charming and with really delicious pastries and excellent cappuchino. I had a tart of fresh raspberries and clotted cream piled high.,The only glitch was paying. i asked and was told in advance that I could use a credit card but lo and behold the credit card machine wasn’t working. shades of Peru where there were allegedly broken credit card machines all over. I then had to pay with a twenty pound note I had saved from my last trip but the proprietor was not happy. Apparently the bill was “out of circulation” I.e. old. Who knew? But he finally took it, with a pained expression.

I met an old friend at her publishing office on The Strand and we tried to go to another old favoritE, Gordon’s Wine Bar but it too was packed so we ended up a nearby pizzeria apparently owned by Gordon’s that was quite good called Fratelli la Bufala, although not one but two appetizers we ordered included huge portions of, you guessed it, Buffalo mozzarella. Interestingly, the only meat served was buffalo. On the train back to Mortlake in southwest London, I bumped into my friend F. who am staying with, which was lucky. she was going to meet our other friend U. for dinner so we all ended up at a Swedish restaurant called Stockholm where they ate herring and reindeer burgers and I drank water. Ahhh London!

I

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Filed under DINING, London, museum exhibit

Thoughts on leaving…

Clockwise:Charlottenburg Palace, Fernsehturm Berlin, Reichstag building, Berlin Cathedral, Alte

So as I’m rushing around trying to do all the last-minute errands  and tie up  work projects before leaving on a three-week trip to Berlin and beyond, I find myself feeling surprisingly sentimental about the calm, comfortable, everyday life I’m shelving briefly. Maybe that’s an unexpected bonus of travel, suddenly appreciating what you’re leaving behind and will soon return to!

Des Moines, Iowa
—  City  —
City of Des Moines

Clockwise from top: 801 Grand (Principal Financial Group), Greater Des Moines Botanical Garden, Kruidenier Trail bridge, and the Iowa State Capitol

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Filed under Des Moines, Germany

Paying to reserve a seat on an international British Airways flight. Really???

So now I understand why my return flight from Prague to London on British Airways doesn’t include a seat assignment. Apparently I can only get a “free” seat assignment (for a very costly flight, I might add) 24 hours in advance. If I want one before that, I have to pay – and the fee isn’t listed up front.  (I finally found it after searching for too long.  It costs about $12, talk about nickle and dime-ing. For details see: http://www.britishairways.com/travel/paid-seating-terms/public/en_us-  OR http://www.britishairways.com/travel/ba6.jsp/paid-seatingprime/public/en_us

That is really irritating!! I booked this flight via American Airlines – which I’m flying outbound from Chicago to London and on the return leg from London to Chicago (after I sit in a lousy seat I was assigned “for free” 24 hours in advance) apparently.  American kindly granted me reserved seats – who knew this is now a perk???

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Filed under airfare, airline fees, Chicago, London

At HoQ in Des Moines – fab soup, so-so quasadillas, odd service

HoQ restaurant - Des Moines, IA

HoQ restaurant 303 E 5th Street, Des Moines, IA. (515) 244-1213

I finally got around to trying HoQ, a new restaurant in Des Moines’ East Village and it was pretty good. A friend and I had a late lunch – around 1:30 p.m. on a weekday and were the only people there. The waiter was a little odd, the interior a bit stark but attractive. I had delicious asparagus bisque. My friend found her chicken quasadillas (or was it a burrito?) pretty ordinary. I’d try it again.

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More excitement for the real Madison County (Iowa) – book, film, now Broadway musical!

Outside the revamped Northside Cafe in Winterset, Iowa

Outside the revamped Northside Cafe in Winterset, Iowa

Madison County Iowa and it’s famous covered bridges may soon see a resurgence of tourists thanks to the soon to be Broadway Musical based on Robert James Waller’s “Bridges of Madison County” novel.  The musical is debuting this summer at the famous theater festival in beautiful Williamstown, Massachusetts.

After the novel and then the movie came out in 1995 – which was filmed on location in Iowa with Clint Eastwood and Meryl Streep, no less – people flocked to the area to visit the bridges. I took at least one English friend besotted with the novel to tour the area back in the mid 1990’s. If and when visitors return, they’ll find some added attractions and improvements in the county seat of Winterset – including the Northside Cafe, the old small town cafe that was used as a film location for the movie and is under new ownership with the same charm but much better food! There’s also some nice shops around the square and an English-style maze in the local park. And there’s a big move afoot to revamp the John Wayne Birthplace/museum  – a humble little white house (see photo below)- into a mega-John Wayne Museum.NYTimes story on Bridges of Madison County on Broadway!

Image

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Filed under DINING, Iowa, Massachusetts, music, theater

Earth-shaking art with Artquake at the Firehouse, courtesy of the DSM Social Club

We will be out of town for this event but it sounds like fun – and a good way to get a look at the new headquarters of the Des Moines Social club in the way cool old Art Deco firehouse downtown. Artquake is June 27 “featuring an explosion of local art and music.” Better than an earthquake! More details below and on the…Des Moines Social Club website

Des Moines Social Club announces Artquake, June 27 at the Firehouse

DES MOINES (June 4, 2013) – Art. Music. Illumination. Party. The Des Moines Social Club (DMSC) is proud to present Artquake, a party featuring an explosion of local art and music at the Firehouse, on Thursday, June 27 from 6-10pm. For one night, DMSC will transform the courtyard of their new home at the Firehouse into an interactive gallery to illuminate the artists and musicians creating right here in Des Moines.

Artquake will feature performances by Satellite State, D*ckweed and Tires, plus installations and live art by Van Holmgren, Asphate Woodhavet (Maxilla Blue), Body by Svec, Rachel Buse, Joe Crimmings, Lucas Moser, and Mickey Davis. Attendees will also have the opportunity to interact and participate in light painting, screen printing, stenciling and painting a collaborative mural. An extravagant illuminated light art show will accompany the music performances, setting the stage of a truly unique experience.

About the Music

Tires will headline Artquake with their energetic, danceable electronic/instrumental rock. The band has consisted of Phillip Young on guitar and electronic sound manipulations and Jordan Mayland on drums and synthesizers since its formation in 2011. Chris Marshall joined the fray as a full time member in 2012, freeing the band to round out Tires’ massive wall of sound with more deliberate focus.

D*ckweed, a new Des Moines alt-country band, will make their debut performance at Artquake. This “supergroup” features a strong lineup of Des Moines talent including Bob Nastonavich, (Pavement), Patrick Tape Fleming (Poison Control Center, Gloom Balloon), Eric Moffitt (Wolves in the Attic, Mantis Pincers), and Trent Derby (Wolves in the Attic, Volcano Boys).

Satellite State, a rock group featuring local high school students that are most well known for playing in Poison Control Center, will round out the Artquake music lineup. With influences of Wavves, Quasi, and WAXEATER, Satellite State make a rock band what it is: distorted guitar and bass, lyrics about girl(s), dorky drunk fills, and hot men!

About the Art

Local artists will showcase the process of creation to Artquake featuring:

– Van Holmgren – live painting of 3D wood piece

– Asphate Woodhavet (Maxilla Blue) – live graffiti

– Joe Crimmings and Lucas Moser – interactive light painting installation

– Mickey Davis – interactive video installaion

– Emily Svec – live Body By Svec body painting

– More to be announced

Artquake

Thursday, June 27

Doors: 6:00pm, Show: 7:00pm-10:00pm

6-10pm

$5 at the door

All Ages

http://desmoinessocialclub.org/artquake
About the Des Moines Social Club

The Des Moines Social Club is a non-profit organization that provides thought-provoking theater, classes for people of all ages, promotion for local artists, and a recruiting tool for the many businesses in Downtown Des Moines. The organization’s vision is to build premier arts institutions that foster social change and revitalize cities. The Des Moines Social Club formed in 2007 and is currently located at 400 Walnut Street. Learn more athttp://desmoinessocialclub.org.

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Filed under arts festival, Des Moines

More Central Iowa cycling news: gnats on Neal Smith trail, BRAMCO ride Sat. in Madison County

So the good news is the Neal Smith trail from downtown toward Saylorville is largely open and not flooded (although word has it the area around the Saylorville marina is closed due to flooding). But my husband, who rode it yesterday, reports there are  lots of gnats. So ride with your mouth shut and wear glasses or goggles.  Meanwhile, there’s a good training ride for RAGBRAI riders (and anyone else) this weekend just southwest of Des Moines – – The 17th annual BRAMCO Ride (Bicycle Ride Across Madison County) is on Saturday. The weather forecast – of great pertinence especially this rainy spring/summer – is for temps in the 70s and a 20 percent chance of rain. Registration starts at 8 a.m. at the North shelter in Winterset. (Not sure where that is.) The ride starts at 9 a.m. and costs $30. Riders have a choice of two loops – the 45 mile and 60 mile. All paved. Promises to be hilly!Snack and sag wagon provided.  For more info see: the Madison County Cycle Club website Madison County Cycle Club website.

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Filed under bike trails, biking, Des Moines

Weekend away: Farm bounty in southwest Iowa

The Henry A. Wallace Country Life Center includes a community-supported agriculture garden, managed by Sarah Costa, above. Great photo by my friend Gary Fandel at the Iowa Farm Bureau!

Check out the story I wrote that appears in tomorrow’s Minneapolis Star Tribune Travel section on what to do and see in beautiful Adair Count, Iowa – including a pristine old farmstead and good farm-to-table restaurant at the Henry A. Wallace Country Life Center, historically preserved buildings in Greenfield Iowa, a way cool museum with lots of vintage airplanes and a big rock along a country road painted each year with a new memorial honoring U.S. military vets. Star Tribune story on Greenfield Iowa

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Iowa hinterland food scene on the move! latest Iowa Best Bite winner in Oskaloosa.

Chef Pam Oldes plates salads for the 2012 Best Bite Restaurant Challenge in Grinnell.
Chef Pam Oldes plates salads for the 2012 Best Bite Restaurant Challenge in Grinnell. / David Purdy/The Register

For those of us looking for good places to eat in the Iowa hinterland, there’s more good news from the organizers of the Iowa Best Bite contest – the winner of the second contest was chosen and will open a new restaurant in Oskaloosa called On the Green. DMRegister article about On The Green in Oskaloosa The first winner opened her restaurant Prairie Canary in Grinnell last fall and it’s a great addition to the restaurant scene not only in Grinnell but Iowa. I like that both winning chefs are women – although this appears to be just a coincidence.

One of the firms that organizes these contests told me that other Iowa cities are now lining up to host the third contest, two cities – as yet named – in particular are eager. Bring it on!

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Filed under DINING, Iowa