Category Archives: New York

Antique boats, rollercoaster roads, Doug’s fish fry – to Skaneateles and back

What a tricky name to spell and province but Skaneateles is as pretty as I remember from our last visit here, some 25 years ago. I forgot it’s only a 50 minute drive from “the cottage” (our friends’ place in Lansing/king Ferry).

We had fried fish but also a shrimp po boy and lobster roll at Doug’s fish fry, a local haunt with a much-appreciated picnic area perfect for our dog (and us) with picnic tables and umbrellas for shade in a enclosed picnic area with a green lawn bordered by pretty flowers.

The village feels much more well-heeled and touristy than Ithaca, with well preserved old buildings all my Main street and upscale gift shops and a pretty old inn overlooking Skaneateles Lake. The lakefront park is charming, as I remembered, with a dock where an old fashioned cruise boat takes visitors out onto the narrow finger lake. There happened to be a vintage boat show, with shiny wood boats as old as the early 1900s.

We did a loop drive, coming up the west side of owasca lake and returning by driving along the east side, both pretty routes through emerald green farm fields, narrow rollercoaster roads up and down the hills, past worn farmhouses, dairy farms, and small old towns.

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Mills State Park, Slow fox farm, omega institute – salt point/rhinebeck,NY

(Oops. Forgot to post this a few days ago.) Lovely visit to our friends little slice of heaven in Duchess County. We mostly stayed put (why leave Heaven?) but did walk the dogs (our Millie; hosts’ Ollie and Leto) along the Hudson at mills State park, past the columned white concrete mills mansion atop a sloping green lawn with beautiful old trees and majestic river views. (Sampled red raspberries along the way.)

In the afternoon we tried out our friends electric bikes on hilly and curving back roads, past old white farmhouses, landing at Slow fox farms beer tent (technically in Rhinebeck).

Returned just in time for a brief downpour and then biked past omega institute, a retreat, and returned on dirt shady dirt roads to heaven!

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Hike from upper Treman, Tuesdays at taughanock – Return to Ithaca

Our near-annual trip to Ithaca (thank you Myra and Mike) has produced a few discoveries to share:

The parking is free at state parks here for people age 62 and over. Alas I did not discover this until age 66 (now) and have dutifully shelled out $10 at parks including our favorite, Treman which has a gorgeous trail hugging a gorge.

The money shot at Upper Treman

A ranger also told us that when we use the pay machine (in lieu of a ranger) we can scan our license with our birthdate to get free parking.

Tuesdays at Taughanock is a summer music series on the patio of the charming inn at Taughanock falls, which I first went to for dinner with my parents as a kid. (When it was as the Taughanock farms inn.) It sits high above Cayuga waters (not as high as Cornell to the east). $20 gets you a large burger, chips and a beer or glass of wine, plus the music, in this case a low-key performance by singer Annie Burns, of Burns sisters fame (a popular local group we last saw maybe 20 years ago.)

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Old John’s Diner, jitney ride – NYC

Central Park West view

I don’t know how I’ve missed going to Old John’s Diner, since it’s been in my relatives’ upper west side neighborhood since 1951. I don’t even remember having walked on the block of 67th street that it’s on (between Amsterdam and Broadway).

But tonight, we got there, with our niece Erika, nephew Jonathan and his girlfriend Calista and it was really fun. I was worried it might be dead on a Sunday night, and more of a breakfast or lunch place but it was busy enough.

And the food was very good diner food, not fancy restaurant. We also had excellent service and a nice big table where we were welcome to linger. My aunt, who has hearing issues, would like it because she would be able to hear the conversation. We enjoyed hearty chicken soup, matzoh ball soup, a tuna melt (alas the tuna had relish in it, which I dislike but Jonathan was fine with), crispy chicken sandwich, Greek salad, fries – all good and some inventive (the Greek salad had romaine lettuce and fried chickpeas) and excellent fries. The desserts were great too especially the lemon meringue pie and ny cheese cake. The carrot cake was tasty but a little dry, according to our table’s expert, dirck. We’ll be back!

In the 70s, near Central Park West, my brother also recommends Yasaka for sushi, on 72nd, and Solid State coffee on 71st between Columbus and Amsterdam.

We took the Jitney (private bus) back from the Hamptons (Water Mill) family thanksgiving on Sunday at 1:35 pm. The bus was comfortable and well-run but packed, and a long haul. It made several stops including near LaGuardia airport, and with holiday traffic took over 3 hours (an hour more than usual/advertised). Next time, we’ll leave Saturday night or Sunday morning to try to beat the traffic.

Thanksgiving gang

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Ithaca is Gorges @ Robert H. Treman State Park, Cascadilla Gorge, Fall Creek Taughannock Falls

At upper Treman

I love a good gorge and this part of the world (the Finger Lakes) is full of them. In and around Ithaca, my favorite is to walk from upper to lower Treman, much of it along stone paths, steps and bridges along the gorge, with water crashing down on mossy-stones, through the sun-dappled forest.

Taughannock Falls

The light, sun, breeze, sound is dazzling and reminds me of my parents who love/loved these gorges too. Fall Creek Gorge is also a stunner, especially as seen while crossing over the suspension bridge high above, but the views are obscured by the metal netting, a sad necessity to discourage suicidal jumpers.

Our final gorge of the trip was the big Kahuna — Taughannock Falls, which is the highest in the area and, word has it, taller than Niagara (albeit with much less volume.)

At Cascadilla

For old time’s sake, we ate nearby on the west shore of Cayuga Lake at Glenwood Pines, in a knotty pine-walled dining room with big windows looking out at the occasional white sailboat gliding through the blue water and the wooded sloping shore beyond, on Cayuga’s east shore. Excellent “pines burger” but sadly the Ithaca Times restaurant review I wrote in 1980 was no longer tacked up on the wall. It was still there about 25 years ago when we last visited., to my amusement. The kids were impressed as I recall.

Suspension bridge over Fall Creek Gorge

Next time, we’ll try to spend more time at Ithaca Falls on Lake Street below Fall Creek gorge on campus. — and hike the Risley Trail (behind Risley Hall on North Campus) to the bottom of Fall Creek.

This trip, we also missed Flat Rock, the rushing water over, yes, flat rocks, in the tiny hamlet of Forest Home, and The spectacular Watkins Glenn.

Cascadilla

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New and old favs in Ithaca – East Shore Road House (breakfast!) and Johnson Museum/dairy Barn (Cornell) and old favs: Ithaca bakery, Greenstar, lake time, Ithaca beer, the commons, Salt Point Brewery

We had a rare (for this visit) rainy day, which fortunately didn’t last long but with the temperature suddenly fallish (60s, not 70s or 80s) we did some indoor activities, starting with brunch at the terrific East Shore Road House in Lansing. Local food producers, husband-and-wife operation, creative entries, cheerful service, short wait on a Saturday. Perfect.

Next stop the Cornell campus to go to the Johnson Museum, designed by IM Pei. Haven’t been there in decades.

On the arts quad

I didn’t remember the top/fifth floor with its long glass windows affording spectacular views of Cayuga Lake, the valley, Cornell campus and a classic tempestuous Ithaca sky. Another favorite was the second floor outdoor deck with a long, sloping, zero-gravity wood bench where we laid down and looked up at the ceiling dotted with flashing little lights, like stars in the night sky – an LED art installation.

Watching the stars (installation)

We walked around the campus, across the suspension bridge high above Fall Creek Gorge. We saw lots of unfamiliar new modern buildings on campus in addition to the old favorites — The Straight (student Union), Goldwin Smith Hall, McGraw Hall (history). Final on campus stop: the dairy barn (which isn’t a barn any more) for Cornell ice cream! Perfect.

East Shore Road House

Yesterday was lunch outdoors at the edge of a cornfield at Ithaca Beer Co. where I had a “Cornell chicken” sandwich…apparently Cornell chicken is a thing (cider vinegar and an egg are main ingredients) and I found the recipe on Epicurious. The day before was sandwiches from Ithaca bakery, grocery shopping at Green Star Market, and a quick stroll around the Ithaca Commons downtown (which sadly has little to offer.) we also had good pizza at Salt Point Brewery in South Lansing, which closes pretty early (9 pm) on a Saturday night, at least by Chicago standards.

At Johnson Museum

And of course, a highlight was another late afternoon swim at “the lake.” Millie our pup is a fan of the water too.

The Long View at the top of Johnson Art Museum.

At the straight

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Eating and drinking our way around Seneca And Cayuga Lakes

Gorgeous weather, perfect for a Finger Lakes food and drink crawl, starting with Apples and Moore which was as miserly as I remembered, with no samples to determine if you wanted to buy a huge bag of apples – the only option available in the shop. (Also, dog-unfriendly. Theyallowed out of the car despite the ample grounds.)

But we learned that if we picked our own, we could sample a few varieties. Our favorites weren’t readily available. (It’s too early for the fabulous snapdragon apple I discovered two years ago. It’s available in late September.) We did enjoy some delicous apple cider donuts and the glorious view of orchards dotted with red apples and the lake valley in the distance.

Finger Lakes Cider House

Next stop: Two Goats Brewery, on the east side Seneca Lake, which has a phenomenal view of the lake and valley beyond. We had roast beef sandwiches with mayo and horseradish on a chewy roll, and Golden Crush hazy IPA. then onto my favorite spot – Finger Lakes Cider House which is between the two lakes in another gorgeous spot, with a cut flower operation, a good gift shop, excellent food, friendly and dog-welcoming staff. We had a house flight cider, with our favs: honeyoye and fruit of the bloom.And a cheese board of Lively Run Cheeses, also local (and a place we’ve visited on the crawl in the past.)

At Two Goats

Last stop, Trumansburg, a quick stop at our favorite shop Sundrees and then on to the Wednesday night farmers market, which is refreshingly low-key and counter culture.(Word has it the Ithaca Farmers Market has become too popular, leading to weekend traffic jams.) In T-burg, a bluegrass band played inside a red-topped wooden gazebo, while a food truck sold mean-looking fried chicken, and other vendors sold exotic garlic varieties, fancy slices of cake, excellent focaccia, late season tomatoes and basil.

Trumansburg farmers market

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New Paltz, Mohonk, Catskills, Roscoe Diner (Liberty) – road to Ithaca

We took a roundabout way to Ithaca so we could drive through the college town of New Paltz, which still has the alternative and outdoorsy vibe I remember, then on through the mountains past the grounds of the Mohonk resort, and into the Catskills where the big Borscht Belt resorts have been replaced by small orthodox Jewish temples, businesses, a camp.

Breakfast at the lake

For old times sake, we stopped for lunch at the Roscoe Dinner, getting a tuna on rye and Greek salad with anchovies, good Greek olives and grape leaves, which we ate at a picnic table at an adjacent ice cream shop (owned by the diner) that had a dog treat for Millie. The drive here was beautiful especially as we got closer to Lansing, NY and Cayuga Lake where our friends Myra and Mike’s little slice of heaven is located, a sweet cottage high above Cayuga’s waters. We arrived just in time for a late afternoon swim and happy hour on the dock. Oh happy day.

Roscoe Diner

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Our friends little slice of heaven (Salt point), Bread alone and Jane’s Ice cream (Rhinebeck

Playing catch up with the blogging because we’ve been so busy enjoying the gorgeous weather. We spent much of our time in the hamlet of Salt Point, walking out onto the pastures to the pond (where Millie can’t resist jumping into the pond) and the gazebo, visiting the cows, looking out over the valley at the stunning views.

We dropped in at a private party at a small old house in the hamlet of Rhinebeck to briefly see my cousin and her family who just moved there. The village reminded me a bit of Sag Harbor, increasing chic. Which has its pros (good bakeries) and cons (overpriced home goods shops.) we split an excellent chicken salad sandwich on delicious focaccia at Bread Alone and ice cream (killer chocolate) at Jane’s, a local dairy.)

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Wilkes-Barre PA, mist in the Poconos, Poughkeepsie Walkway over the Hudson

There was rain and mist in the mountains as we left our unlovely motel and drove further north and east, stopping for coffee in what turned out to be the interesting city of Wilkes-Barre. It reminded me a little of Easton, my mom’s hometown with old redbrick row houses with white wood railing. But Wilkes-Barre had surprisingly grand old buildings, some banks or fraternal organizations, and two small colleges with pretty old buildings. A bridge over the river with eagle sculptured pediments, worthy of Europe. A memorial to fallen coal miners. Seemed a faded, once mighty industrial city on the rebound.

The most spectacular and unexpected building was a mosque with four minerets that could have been in Istanbul. Apparently it was a Shriners temple, built in the early 1900s. Abandoned, with some busted windows but perhaps slated for restoration.

Wilkes-Barre

We found good coffee and pastries at Abide, which welcomed Millie, our dog, inside. Another nearby coffeehouse, Pour, looked like a good option too.

Confirming Pennsylvania’s swing state status in the upcoming presidential election, we saw a Harris Walz sign near the Jewish center of King’s College and a nasty “ F—k Biden” sign in the window of a faded apartment building. Another window in the building had a “Catholics for Trump” sign.

The sky began to clear as we drove though the Poconos to the Hudson River, crossing into Poughkeepsie, enough so we could sit outside at the Palace diner, old school with shiny aluminum siding, and eat brunch while passing customers made a fuss over Millie. We had one mishap. Millie balked at climbing the metal grated steps leading up to the dramatic walkway over the Hudson, fashioned from a former rail bridge. We found a hill she could walk up to get on the bridge and walked about half the bridge span, soaking in the spectacular river views, and then took the handy elevator down and walked uphill the to our car.

Walkway over the Hudson

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