Category Archives: New York

Ithaca is Gorges @ Robert H. Treman State Park, Cascadilla Gorge, Fall Creek Taughannock Falls

At upper Treman

I love a good gorge and this part of the world (the Finger Lakes) is full of them. In and around Ithaca, my favorite is to walk from upper to lower Treman, much of it along stone paths, steps and bridges along the gorge, with water crashing down on mossy-stones, through the sun-dappled forest.

Taughannock Falls

The light, sun, breeze, sound is dazzling and reminds me of my parents who love/loved these gorges too. Fall Creek Gorge is also a stunner, especially as seen while crossing over the suspension bridge high above, but the views are obscured by the metal netting, a sad necessity to discourage suicidal jumpers.

Our final gorge of the trip was the big Kahuna — Taughannock Falls, which is the highest in the area and, word has it, taller than Niagara (albeit with much less volume.)

At Cascadilla

For old time’s sake, we ate nearby on the west shore of Cayuga Lake at Glenwood Pines, in a knotty pine-walled dining room with big windows looking out at the occasional white sailboat gliding through the blue water and the wooded sloping shore beyond, on Cayuga’s east shore. Excellent “pines burger” but sadly the Ithaca Times restaurant review I wrote in 1980 was no longer tacked up on the wall. It was still there about 25 years ago when we last visited., to my amusement. The kids were impressed as I recall.

Suspension bridge over Fall Creek Gorge

Next time, we’ll try to spend more time at Ithaca Falls on Lake Street below Fall Creek gorge on campus. — and hike the Risley Trail (behind Risley Hall on North Campus) to the bottom of Fall Creek.

This trip, we also missed Flat Rock, the rushing water over, yes, flat rocks, in the tiny hamlet of Forest Home, and The spectacular Watkins Glenn.

Cascadilla

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New and old favs in Ithaca – East Shore Road House (breakfast!) and Johnson Museum/dairy Barn (Cornell) and old favs: Ithaca bakery, Greenstar, lake time, Ithaca beer, the commons, Salt Point Brewery

We had a rare (for this visit) rainy day, which fortunately didn’t last long but with the temperature suddenly fallish (60s, not 70s or 80s) we did some indoor activities, starting with brunch at the terrific East Shore Road House in Lansing. Local food producers, husband-and-wife operation, creative entries, cheerful service, short wait on a Saturday. Perfect.

Next stop the Cornell campus to go to the Johnson Museum, designed by IM Pei. Haven’t been there in decades.

On the arts quad

I didn’t remember the top/fifth floor with its long glass windows affording spectacular views of Cayuga Lake, the valley, Cornell campus and a classic tempestuous Ithaca sky. Another favorite was the second floor outdoor deck with a long, sloping, zero-gravity wood bench where we laid down and looked up at the ceiling dotted with flashing little lights, like stars in the night sky – an LED art installation.

Watching the stars (installation)

We walked around the campus, across the suspension bridge high above Fall Creek Gorge. We saw lots of unfamiliar new modern buildings on campus in addition to the old favorites — The Straight (student Union), Goldwin Smith Hall, McGraw Hall (history). Final on campus stop: the dairy barn (which isn’t a barn any more) for Cornell ice cream! Perfect.

East Shore Road House

Yesterday was lunch outdoors at the edge of a cornfield at Ithaca Beer Co. where I had a “Cornell chicken” sandwich…apparently Cornell chicken is a thing (cider vinegar and an egg are main ingredients) and I found the recipe on Epicurious. The day before was sandwiches from Ithaca bakery, grocery shopping at Green Star Market, and a quick stroll around the Ithaca Commons downtown (which sadly has little to offer.) we also had good pizza at Salt Point Brewery in South Lansing, which closes pretty early (9 pm) on a Saturday night, at least by Chicago standards.

At Johnson Museum

And of course, a highlight was another late afternoon swim at “the lake.” Millie our pup is a fan of the water too.

The Long View at the top of Johnson Art Museum.

At the straight

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Eating and drinking our way around Seneca And Cayuga Lakes

Gorgeous weather, perfect for a Finger Lakes food and drink crawl, starting with Apples and Moore which was as miserly as I remembered, with no samples to determine if you wanted to buy a huge bag of apples – the only option available in the shop. (Also, dog-unfriendly. Theyallowed out of the car despite the ample grounds.)

But we learned that if we picked our own, we could sample a few varieties. Our favorites weren’t readily available. (It’s too early for the fabulous snapdragon apple I discovered two years ago. It’s available in late September.) We did enjoy some delicous apple cider donuts and the glorious view of orchards dotted with red apples and the lake valley in the distance.

Finger Lakes Cider House

Next stop: Two Goats Brewery, on the east side Seneca Lake, which has a phenomenal view of the lake and valley beyond. We had roast beef sandwiches with mayo and horseradish on a chewy roll, and Golden Crush hazy IPA. then onto my favorite spot – Finger Lakes Cider House which is between the two lakes in another gorgeous spot, with a cut flower operation, a good gift shop, excellent food, friendly and dog-welcoming staff. We had a house flight cider, with our favs: honeyoye and fruit of the bloom.And a cheese board of Lively Run Cheeses, also local (and a place we’ve visited on the crawl in the past.)

At Two Goats

Last stop, Trumansburg, a quick stop at our favorite shop Sundrees and then on to the Wednesday night farmers market, which is refreshingly low-key and counter culture.(Word has it the Ithaca Farmers Market has become too popular, leading to weekend traffic jams.) In T-burg, a bluegrass band played inside a red-topped wooden gazebo, while a food truck sold mean-looking fried chicken, and other vendors sold exotic garlic varieties, fancy slices of cake, excellent focaccia, late season tomatoes and basil.

Trumansburg farmers market

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New Paltz, Mohonk, Catskills, Roscoe Diner (Liberty) – road to Ithaca

We took a roundabout way to Ithaca so we could drive through the college town of New Paltz, which still has the alternative and outdoorsy vibe I remember, then on through the mountains past the grounds of the Mohonk resort, and into the Catskills where the big Borscht Belt resorts have been replaced by small orthodox Jewish temples, businesses, a camp.

Breakfast at the lake

For old times sake, we stopped for lunch at the Roscoe Dinner, getting a tuna on rye and Greek salad with anchovies, good Greek olives and grape leaves, which we ate at a picnic table at an adjacent ice cream shop (owned by the diner) that had a dog treat for Millie. The drive here was beautiful especially as we got closer to Lansing, NY and Cayuga Lake where our friends Myra and Mike’s little slice of heaven is located, a sweet cottage high above Cayuga’s waters. We arrived just in time for a late afternoon swim and happy hour on the dock. Oh happy day.

Roscoe Diner

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Our friends little slice of heaven (Salt point), Bread alone and Jane’s Ice cream (Rhinebeck

Playing catch up with the blogging because we’ve been so busy enjoying the gorgeous weather. We spent much of our time in the hamlet of Salt Point, walking out onto the pastures to the pond (where Millie can’t resist jumping into the pond) and the gazebo, visiting the cows, looking out over the valley at the stunning views.

We dropped in at a private party at a small old house in the hamlet of Rhinebeck to briefly see my cousin and her family who just moved there. The village reminded me a bit of Sag Harbor, increasing chic. Which has its pros (good bakeries) and cons (overpriced home goods shops.) we split an excellent chicken salad sandwich on delicious focaccia at Bread Alone and ice cream (killer chocolate) at Jane’s, a local dairy.)

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Wilkes-Barre PA, mist in the Poconos, Poughkeepsie Walkway over the Hudson

There was rain and mist in the mountains as we left our unlovely motel and drove further north and east, stopping for coffee in what turned out to be the interesting city of Wilkes-Barre. It reminded me a little of Easton, my mom’s hometown with old redbrick row houses with white wood railing. But Wilkes-Barre had surprisingly grand old buildings, some banks or fraternal organizations, and two small colleges with pretty old buildings. A bridge over the river with eagle sculptured pediments, worthy of Europe. A memorial to fallen coal miners. Seemed a faded, once mighty industrial city on the rebound.

The most spectacular and unexpected building was a mosque with four minerets that could have been in Istanbul. Apparently it was a Shriners temple, built in the early 1900s. Abandoned, with some busted windows but perhaps slated for restoration.

Wilkes-Barre

We found good coffee and pastries at Abide, which welcomed Millie, our dog, inside. Another nearby coffeehouse, Pour, looked like a good option too.

Confirming Pennsylvania’s swing state status in the upcoming presidential election, we saw a Harris Walz sign near the Jewish center of King’s College and a nasty “ F—k Biden” sign in the window of a faded apartment building. Another window in the building had a “Catholics for Trump” sign.

The sky began to clear as we drove though the Poconos to the Hudson River, crossing into Poughkeepsie, enough so we could sit outside at the Palace diner, old school with shiny aluminum siding, and eat brunch while passing customers made a fuss over Millie. We had one mishap. Millie balked at climbing the metal grated steps leading up to the dramatic walkway over the Hudson, fashioned from a former rail bridge. We found a hill she could walk up to get on the bridge and walked about half the bridge span, soaking in the spectacular river views, and then took the handy elevator down and walked uphill the to our car.

Walkway over the Hudson

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Nom Wah tea parlor/chinatown, Elea/upper west side and Hectors Cafe/near the Whitney. – NYC

Nom Wah Tea Parlor, on tiny Doyers street in Chinatown, looks from the outside like a Wes Anderson movie set with its faded red sign with yellow letters and it did not disappoint inside either, full of old knickknacks and signs. And the dim sum was delicious. After a short wait in line outside in light drizzle at 2 pm on a Sunday, we got in and quickly got oolong tea, sautéed greens with oyster sauce (I think) scallion pancakes, shrimp and chive potstickers and pork shu mai. Delicous, hot, fresh. The place was packed but service was swift. Maybe that’s why it’s been around since 1920.

Nom Wah
The swimmers on Park Avenue

For dinner, we went to a good Mediterranean/greek place called Elea on 85th street near Amsterdam. And today, after going to the Henry Taylor show at the Whitney with my dear friend Myra (Myra Monday!) we picked perhaps the most unassuming place in the meat packing district, a diner called Hectors cafe that serves breakfast all day and has a perfect tuna sandwich. And they let us hang out for hours, which was great. We walked on the high line and then across town in the 30s to Grand Central where we lingered in the basement, first at a cheerful place for smoothies and drinks then at the Oyster Bar, for some fried oysters. Good hot tea too, which is what I needed for laryngitis.

Hector’s Cafe
Oyster Bar, NYC 2023

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Nature hike – barcelona neck …sag harbor NY

My cousin Scott showed us a great hike through the woods onto a rocky beach with a spectacular view of Shelter Island in the distance and beyond that, the North Fork of Long Island. A handful of trails begin behind the Sag Harbor golf course. The area is refreshing unspoiled by development.

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Wu’s Wonton King, the new LaGuardia — NYC

When we heard (from our favorite private chef) that Wu’s Wonton King is the place professional chefs eat, we were there! We found it on an unglamorous corner in Chinatown/the Lower East Side on East Broadway and were not disappointed, although we probably should have asked what the house speciality, fried crab, cost ($84) before ordering it. Then again, if we had asked, we wouldn’t have ordered it and it was delicious. This will sound familiar to members of the $317 Club. (Inside joke explanation: years ago we got a surprise dinner bill of $317 after eating with friends at another Chinatown restaurant post-Thanksgiving.)

Our other entrees were in the $18 ballpark (which suddenly seemed like a bargain) and also excellent including the #1 wonton soup, stir fried chicken with veg, and pork dumplings. All very fresh, quality ingredients and well seasoned.

On to LaGuardia where we were delighted (not something I’ve ever written about LaGuardia) by the spanking new terminal C, all white walls, wide white corridors, clean modern design, appealing restaurants. And our delta flights were on what felt like new planes with well-upholstered seats and screens to watch TV and movies.

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Hopper’s NY at the Whitney, Simo Pizzeria, Oyster Bar – New York City at its best

What a fantastic show at The Whitney: Edward Hopper’s decades of work when he lived in New York City during the first half of the 20th century. Among the paintings is an old friend, his famous Automat, which belongs to the Des Moines Art Center. As a docent at the art center, I loved showing and discussing Automat with visitors, especially the many fourth-graders I guided though the museum.

Seeing it in New York was like spotting an old friend at a crowded party. And seeing it surrounded by other evocative, melancholy New York landscapes and portraits by Hopper made me see it in a new way.

The Oyster Bar
An old friend from DSM in NYC

Leaving the museum at 2:30 and very hungry, we found an excellent late lunch of Naples-style thin crust pizza and a salad of fresh greens at Simo, well-positioned across the street from The Whitney. (I gather we weren’t the first famished museum goers to chance upon the place.) Prompt cheerful service, casual dining room, delicious food. Another one is opening soon at Columbus Circle.

Lots of Hoppers

After walking up the High Line to 29th Street and then over to the annual holiday market at Union Square, we returned with our friend Myra to Grand Central Station where she took the train to and fro from Fairfield County. The Oyster Bar, a wonderful old gem in the bowels of the station, turned out to be another perfect dining spot for a light dinner of delicious fried oysters, fries, beer and a Manhattan. I hadn’t been there since about 1986 and hope to visit again …much sooner, next time.

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