Category Archives: Michigan

  Campus Martius (“marshus”) Park, Moosejaw, Du Mouchelle Auction House, dream cruise, Aretha RIP — Downtown Detroit

Not only did we not have to talk our relatives in suburban Detroit into exploring downtown, they suggested it! Detroit gets better with our every annual visit. We dropped by what is now an old favorite must see, the stunningly ornate Guardian Building and then followed a comfortable-sized crowd to a thriving pocket park – campus martius – with cafes (Parc looked particularly good), outdoor tables, sculpture and a sandy beach (minus the waterfront — the Detroit river is a few blocks south). Kids played in the sand, small groups (black and white, although not mixed) sipped drinks at outdoor tables, two bands played an stages near muscle cars on display (a fraction of the vintage cars participating in the annual Dream Cruise further north on Woodward Avenue). Barbara forgot her purse at our table, walked back to it after a few minutes and there it was waiting for her, all items accounted for. Gives you hope for Detroit’s continued renaissance.

We also wandered into Moosejaws, a Detroit outdoors store, among several inviting cafes and shops nearby and more to come — a big Shopping Center is rising soon on the site of the famous old Hudson’s Department Store that I used to go to with my mom in the 1960s and 70s. We also dropped in at a famous old auction house across from RenCen and by far the best piece for sale was a piece by Glen Michaels, father of a high school friend.

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Saarinen House/Cranbrook academy of art – Bloomfield hills 

We got lucky and at the last minute were able to join a previously sold out walking tour of the Art Deco Saarinen house at cranbrook. The 70-minute tour was a great introduction to the entire cranbrook campus but then we got to enter the house that eliel Saarinen designed and lived in with his family in 1930. When I was a high school student at Kingswood/Cranbrook, the House was still the residence of the art academy president (the father of a school friend) but in the 1990s it underwent a major renovation and was opened for tours. There were only 12 of us and an excellent guide. It was my second tour but I still loved it, especially after seeing Saarinen’s train station in Helsinki. (I must return so I can visit Saarinen ‘s summer Home outside Helsinki.)

In the art museum, I found a catalogue of a retrospective of work by ceramicist John Glick, whose work my parents sold at their gallery. Sadly we missed the show which was in 2017 shortly before he died. I was particularly thrilled to find a page about the dinnerware that we recently inherited from my dad and now treasure.

in Bloomfield Hills, must remember to visit Smith House, a flwright House now owned by Cranbrook and open occasionally for tours.

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Priya Indian, Rays – suburban Detroit 

  • E4BB38C9-2ED7-485D-9EDD-0B8AFA556349.jpegWe had good Indian food at Priya near Troy, including onion badjis (which the restaurant called onion pakora) and dosa, a southern Indian crepe, plus more traditional  fare like saag and shrimp tikka masala. Then onto Rays ice cream in royal oak where the kiddie scoop I got was just as enormous as the regular scoop. Not complaining.
  • Had a bit of a scare when Noah and I couldn’t find my moms memorial bench in the park on scotia road in Huntington Woods. We found it has been relocated temporarily to city hall while the park is being redone.
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Arm blessing, cherry pie – sawyer, Michigan 

 

 

 

We stopped for a late afternoon coffee in the small groovy southwest Michigan town at Infusco, a good cafe. A pleasant young man started chatting with me about my broken arm, asking questions and expressing sympathy. What I wasn’t expecting was for him to ask if he could pray for me. Why not. I’ll take any help I can get even if I don’t believe in jesus. So right in the middle of the cafe, he prayed for arm to heal and mentioned that Jesus loves me. I thanked him and off we went to stretch our legs in sawyer before hitting the road again to Huntington Woods.for future reference the town with the fruit stands near Coloma, MichiganD29CAF97-F11B-47A2-9A90-FBD68DD6B0A2

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Zingerman’s in Ann Arbor//Redamak’s in New Buffalo– good stops heading east to Detroit

We finally found an opportunity to stop briefly in Ann Arbor for a corned beef sandwich at the senses-overwhelming Zingerman’s deli. As good as I remembered. Also got a burger on the way home at a place we’ve meant to try — Redamak’s in New Buffalo near the Michigan/Indiana state line.

Place was packed on a Monday for lunch and we soon learned why. The food was good and service prompt. Next time we are supposed to try nearby Oinks for ice cream, my sister tells me!

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Filed under Detroit, Discoveries: trust me, Michigan

Parks & Rec Diner, Guardian Building, Parducci reliefs – Downtown Detroit



This summer’s adventures in downtown Detroit included an excellent egg-centric brunch at Parks & Rec Diner, a fun little spot  way downtown in a former, you guessed it, city of Detroit parks and rec office in a surprisingly elegant castle-like stone building. Cheerful spot with good service, lots of young people in vintage-inspired outfits (later learned there was an LGBT festival nearby) and creative egg dishes (a creamy bright yellow hard boiled duck egg accompanying a mound of smoked salmon atop a lightly flavored crime freise sauce, and a heap of thick brown eye from the famous Avalon Bakery; Turkish eggs – perfectly poached with olives, tabbouli and homemade pita).

Onto the Guardian Building, an Art Deco beauty that was more impressive than anything I saw recently in Miami’s South Beach. Who knew?

We took a free walking architecture tour that began at the Guardian and focused on the deeply cut ornate stone reliefs by an artist named Parducci that adorn buildings by famous Detroit architect Albert Kahn. We got as far  as the Penobscot building and then had to break off early so I could get to my 40th high school reunion at the always stunning campus of Cranbrook in Bloomfield Hills.

It was amazing to see 30 some people including some from Australia on the walking tour by Pure Detroit. next trip, I hope to take a tour of the Guardian Building and maybe even dare to ride a bike around the area. I really think this time Detroit is “back” but it’s at that fragile stage where there’s a lot more work to be done but also a palpable sense of potential and discovery. I hope it doesn’t tip either way (back into decay/decline or forward too fast into overdeveloped. Tricky to manage.

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For next trip to New Buffalo, Michigan

 

Here’s a few places to try out next time in the New Buffalo/Sawyer, MI area  (that we found during our brief stay in fall 2016 :

– Red Arrow Cabins
– Smokin’ Woodies (BBQ)
– Grand Beach Motel
– Harbert B&B

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Warren Dunes State Park, Infusco coffee, Sawyer produce — southwest Michigan

Nothing like a walk along the sandy shores of Lake Michigan to loosen up my aching back after a night on a img_0313too hard mattress at an Airbnb in Sawyer. And at the end of our walk on the near deserted shore, on a gorgeous unexpectedly warm fall morning, it was easy to feel optimistic about life.

Later, we had my dream picnic (smoked whitefish, raspberries and russet apples, all fresh fromMichigan) at a not quite perfect picnic spot– aa concrete picnic table at a rest stop along I-80, just over the border in Illinois.

We explored some more of the area around Sawyer, getting coffee at Infusco and produce at the local greenhouse including more raspberries and heirloom tomatoes. WE drove on a beautiful morning around Lakeside, spotting some fancy vacation homes off narrow dirt roads cut into the woods. new Buffalo didn’t make much of an impression but we liked the area around it and can see why it draws big city folk from Chicago (only an hour away).img_0144

Dinner was in Iowa City at Pullman, a newcomer that has been on our list for awhile for good reason, as it turned out. Delicious fried chicken and over-the-top “kitchen fries” with crispy fries, melts cheese, a mustard sauce and bits of what tasted like burnt ends from the best Kansas City rib joints. BAck to cottage cheese and carrots today in Des Moines.

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Deli (Jewish!) in Beulah, whitefish and beach in Frankfort, hipsters and not in Sawyer – exploring the western Lake Michigan Coast

Our Airbnb in the southwest Michigan town of Sawyer is worlds apart from our friends’ sleek streamlined loft in Traverse. It reminds me of a former kids room in my Kansas in-laws former house. Lived in, old furniture, family photos and knickknacks. But aside from a too hard bed it was fine and about 2 miles from the surprisingly hip two block business district in what is still a rural/beach community., complete with a brew pub (where we drank in a beer garden, thanks to strangely warm temps) and a good burger across the street at a cutely named Clean Plate Club and a hipster coffee shop(Infusco). Also found a fine assortment of local apples, raspberries and heirloom tomatoes at Sawyer produce/ greenhouse.

We took our time driving here, stopping in Beulah at L’chaim Deli which served a good bagel cream cheese and lox (the Reuben wasn’t the best…too-processed meat and too-orange Russian dressing). We walked along the beach in Frankfort, watching the waves crash into the breaker wall and very fit old white guys paddleboarding and wind surfing.

Couldn’t resist picking up more smoked whitefish at the local place. Further south, in south haven, just off the highway, we followed the honor  system setup and put $6 in the Dropbox after helping ourselves to some fresh picked raspberries in an outdoor cooler (we didn’t have time to pick our own.) Time to hit the road again. Fun trip.

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The Tribune/Northport, Christmas Cove Antique Apples, Carlson’s/Fishtown-Leand, Glen Arbor Biking, Taproot in TC


img_0306Fog was rising from the lake when we looked out the window this morning in Traverse City but by the time we reached the lovely town of Northport on the Leelenau Penninsula, the sky had cleared and was a gorgeous Autumn blue. The leaves are late to turn this fall, we’ve been told but we still saw many red, orange and yellow leaves…and we have had warm 60’s weather so no complaints.

img_0308In Northport, we had a good breakfast at The Tribune, a small cheerful dining room in an old white wooden building up from a pretty waterfront park, and then drove a little north to a remarkable antique apple farm in Christmas Cove that had no less three varieties of another hard-to-find apple I love: Russets!  There were dozens of other apple varieties I have never heard of for sale, rows and rows of them, not to mention shelves lined with hundreds of pop bottles,representing who knows how many different soda  makers.

img_0307NExt stop, a little house full of herbs and herb-infused vinegars (Woodside Herbs) and then to Fishtown in Leland, a bunch of shops in ramshackle fishing shanties along a river with a rushing dam that Fish jumped out of on occasion. PIcked up some superb smoked fish at Carlson’s that we ate after a vigorous bike ride around Glen  Haven, Glen lakes and Sleeping Bear Sand dunes around Lake Michigan near our friend’s lovely lake house. After a light dinner at Taproot downtown, we did some book shopping at Horizon Bookstore. Such a great trip. So glad are friends are happy and here and that we came to visit!

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