Category Archives: Michigan

Farmers Market (Honor), Betsie Valley Trail (Beulah), L’chaim (Frankfort), grocer’s daughter gelato and windy Esch beach (Empire) – Up North

Morning at the cottage

When the young baker at the farmer’s market in the tiny village of Honor told me she was returning to school soon, I almost asked which college. Turns out she’s a first grade teacher…who makes a mean cinnamon roll. She was one of the few food vendors at the Tuesday market. The rest were selling low key crafts. We did buy some red haven peaches and tomatoes from what appeared to be native Americans.

Henna vendor at Honor farmers market

We rode our bikes twice on the Betsie River trail along Crystal Lake, which was a different series of colors each day, ranging from coral blue to navy blue.

The trail is about 18 miles round trip and very pleasant, mostly flat with a variety of surfaces and terrains, starting with crunchy crushed gravel as we peddled past waterfront cottages with pretty gardens and the lake, then pavement through the woods, dotted with the occasional white birch (my favorite), then through a marsh wetlands/Betsey Lake past Elberta into the tourist town of Frankfort, with its restaurants, T-shirt shops, and occasional classy decor/gift shops. There is also a L’chaim sandwich shop in Frankfort, where we shared a hearty Ruben sandwich.

Frankfort

In Empire, we made an obligatory stop at the Grocers Daughter for gelato. Esch beach was calm and packed, with warm water and sunshine on our first outing, then windy and less packed, with frigid water and white caps after a stormy night.

Cottage view, Crystal Lake
The sleeping porch in the afternoon
Cottage at night

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Pyramid Point, cherry Republic (Glen Arbor), Benzie County Democrats (Beulah) and Port City Smokehouse (Frankfort) — old favs Up North

We’ve been here enough that we know the lay of the land, and have our old favorites. While the younger gens did the dune climb at Sleeping Bear Dunes National Park, we did a short, more sedate hike north of the village of Empire that landed us at Pyramid Point dune with yet another dazzling view of the lake and manitou island in the distance. We drove a little further on M-22 to near Maple City, which was a reminder of how pretty that area is and might be worth planting ourselves during future visits. Bucolic farmland, historic farmsteads and pretty old country homes.

Glen Arbor was packed with tourists, as was Cherry Republic but it’s got good food (cherry chicken) and good service so worth the one hour wait? The kids played cornhole and other games available on sight while the adults shopped for cherry everything and anything in the shop.

Pyramid Point

We are near the Benzie County Democrats so Noah and I dropped by to see where volunteers are most needed in this battleground state during the upcoming presidential race. The office had just closed but we met a funny and engaging democrat (the lone one on the county commission, she told us). Benzie has a surprisingly robust democratic presence she told us, and is purple. So help is needed. Grand Rapids also needs help from democrat volunteers. She wasn’t sure about the New Buffalo area, which is most convenient to Chicago.

On to Port City Smokehouse for some fresh whitefish and smoked whitefish spread. Nice helpful staff.

At Fred’s view

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The farmhouse (Douglas), empire bluffs trail, l’chaim Deli, Papano’s Pizza (Beulah), Esch Beach – Up North, Michigan

We are back in Beulah after a three year hiatus and fortunately our Airbnb (Fred’s view on Crystal drive) is better than the last one. It’s farther from downtown Beulah, high on a ridge overlooking Crystal Lake, but a much less creepy and decrepit cottage. We claimed the sleeping porch, which has a lovely view of the lake in the distance, although we hear the cars from nearby highway 31. So not as serene as the sleeping porch from our early Ithaca stays on Cayuga Lake. But atmospheric with scuffed white wood siding and planked ceiling, a mishmash of wicker furniture and lake kitsch.

Farmhouse

Lunch en route was in Douglas at the farmhouse bakery, which contrary to its website doesn’t let you order online or by phone. We waited a half hour for very good sandwiches (mufaletta, tuna,), excellent carrot cake and perfect sourdough bread. Good dog-friendly sitting at wood tables outside in the back.

Today we did the easy hike on Empire bluffs Trail for spectacular views of the lake and sleeping Bear dunes, then onto L’chaim deli In beaulah – excellent Rubens, roast beef with Stilton, loaded bagels.

In the later afternoon we went to our favorite dog-friendly, townie beach, Esch Beach, which has soft sandy bottom with a few patches of rocks. Dinner was takeout pizza from very nearby Papano’s. Not bad.

Empire Bluffs Trail

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Swedish Bakery (Harbert), “Indian beads” and Petoskey stones (Weko Beach), Michigan Produce and Froelich’s (three oaks) southwest Michigan

Overcast morning at the beach which proved to be perfect, especially with our sweet lab Millie in tow. We walked just past Weko Beach (no dogs allowed) to the edge of Warren Dunes Park (dogs welcome) and set up our chairs, with few neighbors due to early hour (10-ish) and cloudy sky. Millie loved the water and sand, rolling around in ecstasy, soon a wet sandy mess but so happy!

A woman who seemed like a serious stone collector (stoner!) filled me in on the tiny “Indian Beads” she was looking for, which look like a tiny button with a hole in the center. Good for jewelry and other crafts. I later found one (or near) and even more thrilling, a petosky stone!! Didn’t think they were down here!

Swedish bakery

The water temp was perfect, much warmer than our last chilly swim 🏊‍♀️ on july 4 when the water temp was 59.

Froelichs

We got some pastries at the popular Swedish Bakery where a small crowd patiently waited. Good cinnamon rolls, scones (soft not hard), blueberry muffins, crustless quiche. At Froelichs in Three oaks we ate a late lunch at the bar (corn elote salads; pickled chicken sandwich) and bought flatbread to take home. We loaded up on red haven peaches, sweet corn, first tomatoes of the season at the Michigan Produce stand, near Bridgman. Last stop: Oinks for ice cream in New Buffalo – half scoops were plenty. Michigan pothole, fresh peach, mint cookie. Excellent.

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Red sun setting as bugle plays taps (Weko beach), pizza 🍕 in the woods (Haymarket), hard-to-find fav cheese found (Emma Hearth), Cobb salad at Mason jar – Bridgman and Benton harbor in southwest Michigan

Such a treat to visit this lovely corner of southwest Michigan that I didn’t know about when I was growing up in southeast Michigan.

Thanks to my sister for sharing it with us. On weko beach at 9 pm, people dot the soft sand, two paddlers drift in Lake Michigan, everyone is looking west at the setting sun (shockingly red last night, perhaps due to smoke from the Canadian wildfires) as a bugler plays taps.

We have become periodic regulars at p hearth in Bridgman, with great pizza and carefully selected gourmet market fare including Cottonwood Cheddar (from Kansas!) and at Haymaket, easy going outdoor dining with 🐕 in a clearing in the woods, with kids rushing over to greet our dog Millie, tables of friends, an older couple playing cards between bites of pizza. The Mason Jar perks up Benton Harbor (Cobb salad, lemonade, spotty service).

Mason Jar

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Michigan Central Station, Avalon Bakery, Bon Bon Bon – Detroit

I was so excited to see the Michigan Central Train Station, once a ruin porn mainstay, newly restored as a hopeful sign. But when we arrived on a Monday morning it looked beautiful from the outside and was unavailable to see inside. Grrr. It’s only open Friday evening and on Saturday. Not as hopeful a sign as expected. No matter, we enjoyed driving downtown to see the latest. Still a mixed bag. Downtown looks great. But plenty of streets look worn out. We walked in the neighborhood around the train station and found Mexican village businesses, derelict buildings, some gentrified spots.

We stopped for lunch at Avalon Bakery near Wayne State, which is part of a block long strip of interesting shops off Cass including City Bird and Bon, Bon, Bon, a Hamtramck maker of complicated little confections.

Around the station

Avalon bakery and neighbors near Wayne State

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Perfect pit stop between Chicago and Detroit- Cravings in Kalamazoo

Thanks to a Chicago friend, formerly of Kalamazoo, Michigan, we had delicious Bahn mi sandwiches at an Asian restaurant and market just off I-94 in Kalamazoo/portage. The restaurant had poke, sushi, ramen, bubble tea and a lot more in a clean well-lit market with a great selection of Asian food. The place looked like a cross between an ethnic market and a high- end grocery store. We’ll be back.

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Red Arrow Road House, primitive art, Pricey Swedish stuff, the Local, and peach pickin’/Baroda — back to SW Michigan,

Finally made it back to southwest Michigan’s lake shore as the summer fades. The sky has been overcast but a wretched Midwest heat wave is over, leaving behind pleasantly warm lake water and giant whitecaps which were fun to swim in!

Red arrow roadhouse

We had excellent whitefish at Red Arrow Roadhouse in Union Pier, a fun casual spot. Judith Racht gallery in Harbert, which specializes in “primitive/outsider” art, located in an old school house, was closed for the week. I browsed inside SO (Stockholm objects) which had beautiful and expensive Swedish (and other) clothing and home goods.

On Saturday we took the three dogs for a walk along the beach and, as it turns out, a swim. All three labs love the water and Weko beach has a designated area for dogs south of the main swim area toward Warren Dunes State Park. Lunch was at The local, one of those little trendy touches in a still mostly ordinary small town, except there was one other trendy touch, a pottery gallery with ceramics from all over the world that was crazy expensive.

One pot, I kid you not, from an Australian ceramicist (for this price I’m not calling her/him a potter) was $4,600. You read that right and I did too after double and triple checking. Was it glazed in gold?

We went peach picking at a place in baroda and all decided peach trees are so pretty. The peaches are not yet ripe so here’s hoping. we went on a 17 mile bike ride leaving from Three Oaks, east on Kruger road and at the small town of Galien, we rode south on Cleveland, crossing the scary major highway (12) and then heading back east along very pretty Buffalo road which during the last mile was as A sandy gravel road that led to a dirt road (Avery) back over highway 12. Not a perfect loop but as close as we could get. We picked up an excellent Margherita pizza at patellie’s in Three Oaks.

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Paparazzi, full circle cafe, watermark brewery/ Stevensville,Mi. And Weko Beach fishermen and Cottonwood Cheddar at Emma Hearth and Market, /Bridgman,Mi.

Lovely to be in southwest Michigan in March: when the weather cooperates. It didn’t on day one. It was cold, damp, blustery with occasional furious snow squalls. Perfect day to get my hair trimmed (for about a third of what I paid in Chicago) at Paparazzi salon in the quiet little town of Stevensville, where we had excellent salad and sandwiches across the street at Full circle cafe that we took to eat at Watermark Brewery a block south.

My Kansas cheese!

We’ve passed by Emma Hearth & Market in Bridgman many times and today we finally stopped. It’s well known for its pizza and prefix Italian dinners but I was stunned to find amidst the small selection of gourmet cheeses my fav, Cottonwood River Cheddar from Kansas! I’ve been trying to get the cheese woman at DOM’S market in Lincoln Park to stock it and had just asked our daughter if she could bring some from gateway market in Des Moines when she visits. No need now! The Emma variety (“reserve”) is a little sharper than the kind I’ve had before and without the little white crystals that give the cheese a slight crunch but all good!

Sign at Full circle cafe

On Sunday morning, there was sun and warmer temperatures. Perfect for a walk with the dogs on Weko beach, past fishermen in waders with poles stuck in the sand, catching lots of coho salmon. Otherwise few other people and nothing like the summer crowds.

Beautiful washed out colors along the shore, sandy beach, pale blue water, pale blue sky with moments of yellow sun. Lovely until some uptight woman scolded us for walking the dogs on a section of the beach where we could get slapped with a fine for doing do. Karens everywhere.

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The stray Dog – New Buffalo,Mi

Early January (at almost 2 pm) proved an easy time to get a table for lunch at The Stray Dog, which is usually packed during peak summer tourist season here in southwest Michigan. Cute place, decorated with dog pictures and dog commands (SIT, STAY), good service and well cooked burger.

Many restaurants are closed in early-to-mid January in these parts, including froelichs in Three Oaks. Viola’s was open but not at 2 pm. Fair enough.

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