Category Archives: Michigan

Canvassing for Dems in New Buffalo; apple/pumpkin shopping on Cleveland road thru Galien (Ray and Al’s), Baroda, St. Joseph; wanderlust in St.Joe; Houndstooth in Benton Harbor – Southwest Michigan

Fun with skeletons – wading pool

By the end of this busy day in southwest Michigan, we had a car full of bike shirts, democratic candidate fliers, apples, cider and pumpkins, which reflects the dual nature of the day. We spent much of it canvassing for democratic candidates in New Buffalo, volunteering on behalf of the Michigan Dems – visiting streets completely off the tourist path in New Buffalo, which was interesting. We encountered a mix of friendly Dems and sometimes hostile Trumpers. One woman slammed the door in my face after declaring she’d never vote for “that woman,” i.e. Kamala Harris. Other republicans were more pleasant.

More fun with skeletons

We also were in the area for the annual Apple Cider Bike Ride that happens tomorrow. We went to the registration in a Catholic church in Three Oaks, where there was also a very good sale on bikeshirts in a nearby tent. Later in the day, after canvassing, we returned to Three Oaks for the bike ride’s “ice cream social” which was fun. We lined up for free ice cream (Michigan pothole, my new fav, was an option) and popcorn which we ate in a little park in town where a blues band played in a gazebo.

Apple Cider Ride ice cream social

We took the backroad Cleveland (the name of our street in Chicago) to the Twin Maples apple orchard north of Galien (pronounced Ga-leen, home of Ray and Al’s cafe, which remains on my must-try list). (UPDATE: The cafe opened an offshoot in THREE OAKS — Commune+Market, a new coffee shop and expansive event space, is set to open its doors in the heart of downtown Three Oaks at 105 North Elm St. Source: Harbor Country News
https://search.app/38eUeVg2UJQ85qfp8)

We picked up some Jonathan apples (uncommonly huge and red) for applesauce-making, plus some mutsu apples and honeycrisps for eating and some cider. We had a pretty drive further north (marred only by too many Trump signs) through Baroda, stopping outside st. Joseph at devries farm to pick up some pumpkins and unusual gourds.

Houndstooth fare: poke with avocado in blackberry ponzu sauce and Japanese milk bread with black garlic and chives.

Dinner at Houndstooth in Benton Harbor did not disappoint. It helped that the clerk at an outfitters shop (wanderlust) in St. Joes excitedly recommended what we should order, down to the drink (WaffleHouse, an odd name for what tasted and looked like elegant lemonade). The Japanese milk bread was fabulous (which I would not have thought to order had the clerk not recommended).

Houndstooth neighbor: “Hi-steppin Menswear suits-tuxedos-leisure sets“

She also recommended the passion fruit panne cotta with little pieces of meringue for desert which was as delicious as it was beautiful to look at. Looked like mini birch tree branches in a creamy bright yellow sea. We sat on the patio which fortunately was not deserted but next time I’d like to try the dining room which was hopping. Strange to find such life inside a building on otherwise lifeless streets but I’m guessing affordable rents in this struggling town made it possible for a talented chef to set up shop.

Twin Maple apples

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Filed under Michigan, southwest Michigan

Indiana wedding at White oak farm, Issa vibe cafe in New Buffalo

We danced the night away at my niece’s wedding, held at White Oak Farm in the countryside near Michigan City, Indiana, only 12 minutes from New Buffalo, Michigan, but one time zone away.The weather was dry (amen) and in the 80s, with some intense sunshine during the early part of the outdoor service on a stone patio between two barns – not the old rustic barns but new fancy barns, one with chandeliers, designed not for livestock but for events including weddings. Great people, service, food, dj, dancing.

The “barn”

The morning after, my sibs and I checked out of our respective airbnbs at 10 am (a bit challenging when you’ve gone to bed at 1:30 am) and met at Issa Vibe Cafe, a cheerful easygoing spot with large breakfast paninis (request mayo/aioli on the side; consider sharing) and coffee drinks. It was a good place to hangout and a perfect way to end our family gathering.

Noah, D and I did stop for some Michigan pothole ice cream at Oinks on the way out of New Buffalo. We’re talking very chocolate ice cream with oreo cookie crumbs and mini-peanut butter cups, so not suitable for our lab Millie, who was with us. Amazingly, another customer came over to our table with a little dish of vanilla ice cream for Millie. How kind was that?

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Filed under Indiana, Michigan, southwest Michigan, Uncategorized

Good news!! Michigan Central Station to offer guided tours, opening first restaurant in four decades

Michigan Central Station announced it will offer guided tours and open its first restaurant in four decades. Sadly, it wasn’t open when we tried to visit earlier this year…
— for details Read on www.clickondetroit.com/news/local/2024/09/17/michigan-central-station-to-offer-guided-tours-opening-first-restaurant-in-four-decades/

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Roots cafe (fennville) and Judith Racht gallery and upcoming outsider art fair (Harbert) – southwest Michigan

Finally made it to southwest Michigan on a day when the Judith Racht gallery in Harbert was open. (i.e. long weekends) And so glad to finally visit! terrific collection of contemporary artwork, some from local artists, as well as grassroots/folk/outsider art, and eclectic antiques. Sorry to miss the gallery’s Outsiders Outside Art Fair over Labor Day weekend.

For more details see: https://newbuffaloexplored.com/events/outsiders-outside-art-fair/

Judith Racht Gallery in an old school house

We also stopped at an old favorite a little north in Fennville at The Roots Cafe. Not sure the b&b burger (blue cheese and bacon) was best item to share. Delicious and a mess. The onion rings and fresh lemonade were less messy and also delicious.

Gallery basement treasures

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Good Harbor Gallery, Leland overrun, Northport still pretty, Port Oneida Fair – touring M-22, and Rabbinical ancestors in Traverse City

The weather turned oddly cold and moody, but thankfully no rain. Still, not a beach day so we drive along scenic M22, stopping at a small gallery with ceramics, Good Harbor Gallery, at a rural intersection north of Maple City where I found a wedding gift! we drive through traffic and tourist clogged Leland and it’s famous fishtown to the pretty village of Northport, where a farmers market along the lake was concluding.

Back south, we met up with the grandsons and parents for the annual port Oneida fair at six historic farms, offering lots of old timey kid friendly farm and craft activities, although the kids favorite was an earlier outing to feed alpacas in Frankfurt. In one farmhouse, the 70s cult novel Jonathan Livingston seagull was allegedly written. (I thought it was an east coast ocean seagull.)

Also happened to learn from an old friend about my family’s rabbinical and yenta roots in Traverse City!

Historic farm

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Filed under Michigan, Uncategorized, up north

Elberta beach and Mount Baldy hike, Icehouse Ice cream, pretty town, watervale Inn (Arcadia) and Glen arbor friends!

We finally made an effort to find the Elberta Beach, which is a keeper…a perfect stretch of sand that you reach by walking along a path in the dune grass. nice view of the Frankfort light house and dock inn the distance.

Elberta Beach

In Arcadia, we hiked through the woods a half mile to yet another gorgeous dune bluff view. After visiting the local old-fashioned ice cream shoppe, we drove into the town which turned out to be lovely with a pristine 19th century Lutheran church and several lovely white wood frame 19th century houses with tidy gardens and, I was pleased to see, pro-choice signs. No Trump signs like elsewhere up here, especially around Maple city. We saw two Robert F. Kennedy Jr, signs on the bike trail leading into Frankfort. go figure. Near Arcadia, we checked out the Watervale Inn, an old fashioned resort with summer cottages and a little beach. Unfortunately no dogs allowed, last I checked.

Arcadia house

Dinner into evening was at the perfect beach house of my friend from age 13, PJWK, in Glen Arbor, with a gorgeous view of a Manitou island in the distance and another mainland point. The old tiny Glen Haven. The night sky was full of stars.

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Filed under Michigan, up north

Farmers Market (Honor), Betsie Valley Trail (Beulah), L’chaim (Frankfort), grocer’s daughter gelato and windy Esch beach (Empire) – Up North

Morning at the cottage

When the young baker at the farmer’s market in the tiny village of Honor told me she was returning to school soon, I almost asked which college. Turns out she’s a first grade teacher…who makes a mean cinnamon roll. She was one of the few food vendors at the Tuesday market. The rest were selling low key crafts. We did buy some red haven peaches and tomatoes from what appeared to be native Americans.

Henna vendor at Honor farmers market

We rode our bikes twice on the Betsie River trail along Crystal Lake, which was a different series of colors each day, ranging from coral blue to navy blue.

The trail is about 18 miles round trip and very pleasant, mostly flat with a variety of surfaces and terrains, starting with crunchy crushed gravel as we peddled past waterfront cottages with pretty gardens and the lake, then pavement through the woods, dotted with the occasional white birch (my favorite), then through a marsh wetlands/Betsey Lake past Elberta into the tourist town of Frankfort, with its restaurants, T-shirt shops, and occasional classy decor/gift shops. There is also a L’chaim sandwich shop in Frankfort, where we shared a hearty Ruben sandwich.

Frankfort

In Empire, we made an obligatory stop at the Grocers Daughter for gelato. Esch beach was calm and packed, with warm water and sunshine on our first outing, then windy and less packed, with frigid water and white caps after a stormy night.

Cottage view, Crystal Lake
The sleeping porch in the afternoon
Cottage at night

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Filed under Michigan, Uncategorized, up north

Pyramid Point, cherry Republic (Glen Arbor), Benzie County Democrats (Beulah) and Port City Smokehouse (Frankfort) — old favs Up North

We’ve been here enough that we know the lay of the land, and have our old favorites. While the younger gens did the dune climb at Sleeping Bear Dunes National Park, we did a short, more sedate hike north of the village of Empire that landed us at Pyramid Point dune with yet another dazzling view of the lake and manitou island in the distance. We drove a little further on M-22 to near Maple City, which was a reminder of how pretty that area is and might be worth planting ourselves during future visits. Bucolic farmland, historic farmsteads and pretty old country homes.

Glen Arbor was packed with tourists, as was Cherry Republic but it’s got good food (cherry chicken) and good service so worth the one hour wait? The kids played cornhole and other games available on sight while the adults shopped for cherry everything and anything in the shop.

Pyramid Point

We are near the Benzie County Democrats so Noah and I dropped by to see where volunteers are most needed in this battleground state during the upcoming presidential race. The office had just closed but we met a funny and engaging democrat (the lone one on the county commission, she told us). Benzie has a surprisingly robust democratic presence she told us, and is purple. So help is needed. Grand Rapids also needs help from democrat volunteers. She wasn’t sure about the New Buffalo area, which is most convenient to Chicago.

On to Port City Smokehouse for some fresh whitefish and smoked whitefish spread. Nice helpful staff.

At Fred’s view

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The farmhouse (Douglas), empire bluffs trail, l’chaim Deli, Papano’s Pizza (Beulah), Esch Beach – Up North, Michigan

We are back in Beulah after a three year hiatus and fortunately our Airbnb (Fred’s view on Crystal drive) is better than the last one. It’s farther from downtown Beulah, high on a ridge overlooking Crystal Lake, but a much less creepy and decrepit cottage. We claimed the sleeping porch, which has a lovely view of the lake in the distance, although we hear the cars from nearby highway 31. So not as serene as the sleeping porch from our early Ithaca stays on Cayuga Lake. But atmospheric with scuffed white wood siding and planked ceiling, a mishmash of wicker furniture and lake kitsch.

Farmhouse

Lunch en route was in Douglas at the farmhouse bakery, which contrary to its website doesn’t let you order online or by phone. We waited a half hour for very good sandwiches (mufaletta, tuna,), excellent carrot cake and perfect sourdough bread. Good dog-friendly sitting at wood tables outside in the back.

Today we did the easy hike on Empire bluffs Trail for spectacular views of the lake and sleeping Bear dunes, then onto L’chaim deli In beaulah – excellent Rubens, roast beef with Stilton, loaded bagels.

In the later afternoon we went to our favorite dog-friendly, townie beach, Esch Beach, which has soft sandy bottom with a few patches of rocks. Dinner was takeout pizza from very nearby Papano’s. Not bad.

Empire Bluffs Trail

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Swedish Bakery (Harbert), “Indian beads” and Petoskey stones (Weko Beach), Michigan Produce and Froelich’s (three oaks) southwest Michigan

Overcast morning at the beach which proved to be perfect, especially with our sweet lab Millie in tow. We walked just past Weko Beach (no dogs allowed) to the edge of Warren Dunes Park (dogs welcome) and set up our chairs, with few neighbors due to early hour (10-ish) and cloudy sky. Millie loved the water and sand, rolling around in ecstasy, soon a wet sandy mess but so happy!

A woman who seemed like a serious stone collector (stoner!) filled me in on the tiny “Indian Beads” she was looking for, which look like a tiny button with a hole in the center. Good for jewelry and other crafts. I later found one (or near) and even more thrilling, a petosky stone!! Didn’t think they were down here!

Swedish bakery

The water temp was perfect, much warmer than our last chilly swim 🏊‍♀️ on july 4 when the water temp was 59.

Froelichs

We got some pastries at the popular Swedish Bakery where a small crowd patiently waited. Good cinnamon rolls, scones (soft not hard), blueberry muffins, crustless quiche. At Froelichs in Three oaks we ate a late lunch at the bar (corn elote salads; pickled chicken sandwich) and bought flatbread to take home. We loaded up on red haven peaches, sweet corn, first tomatoes of the season at the Michigan Produce stand, near Bridgman. Last stop: Oinks for ice cream in New Buffalo – half scoops were plenty. Michigan pothole, fresh peach, mint cookie. Excellent.

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