Category Archives: Michigan

Miner’s Beach swim & hike, Pictured Rocks sunset cruise, the duck pond/Christmas, Mi – U.P. and food empire in Sheybogan WI.

Yesterday we swam in Lake Superior, something I didn’t expectto do (or write about doing). But the water was warm enough to go beyond ankle height, which maybe is a bad sign. One local attributed the warmth to an “awful” June that was unseasonably warm.

Rothko or Pictured Rock?

The water wasn’t warm or cold, more brisk (high 60s?) Miner’s Beach is on the Painted Rocks National Lakeshore, it’s a long crescent of perfect sand with the shore’s famous dramatic sandstone cliffs rising at either end. Perfect sandy bottom in the water, unlike the rocky bottom at more isolated Twelvemile Beach to the east (which has more rocks to sort through)!

During a two-hour hike, we trekked along the shoreline trail from the beach east into the woods and up a relatively steep muddy rocky bit to a tranquil forest of white birch and other trees. We were on top of one of the cliffs and had a great view from several clearings in the woods.

As we’d been told, the best way to see the dramatic colored cliffs along the coast is by boat and miraculously, the sky cleared shortly before out “sunset” cruise. We snagged seats on the upper outdoor deck (next time, wear long pants; it got chilly) and spent about two hours admiring nature’s offerings. The huge cliffs looked like a contemporary art exhibit (Mark Rothko?) with huge abstract canvases, some with large horizontal swaths of deep red and purple, others with horizontal brush strokes of black, brown white, plus dabs of green and blue. Stunning.

On the way home, we stopped at Field to Fork, a good casual cafe with breakfast and lunch options in Sheybogan where we learned that the same chef has opened two other restaurants nearby (Trattoria Stefano, Il Retrovo Pizzeria, both Italian) and an excellent gourmet market, Stefano’s Slo Food (the multi-grain sourdough bread is dense, chewy, delicious! Good to know for future trips to Door County!

View from on high, during hike.

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Miner’s Castle (Pictured Rocks), Black Rocks (Presque Isle), Saturday Farmers Market/Babycakes bakery/Snowbound books/zero degrees Gallery, Vierling restaurant/brewery – Marquette in U.P.

Miners castle overlook

If we had to have rain, Marquette was the place to have it. The small city, the U.P.’s largest city, is full of great shops, cool old buildings, beautiful views of the water.

Fortunately the rain held off until after we visited the famous Miners Castle, a tall tower of water sculpted rock that’s a highlight of the Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore. The easy to access overlook also offers a sunning view of the high wall of orange-pink stone rising above the dazzling green and blue water of Lake Superior.

Black Rocks

Rain halted our plan to hang out at Miners Beach although we did manage to picnic near the beach before the downpour. The storm made the scenery even more dramatic (that’s the bright way of seeing things) with the sky its own drama of clouds, mist, from dark grey to light grey to bright white.

Vierling restaurant

I’d been told I’d like Marquette and I do! It’s an interesting and attractive place with college kids (this is the home of Northern Michigan University), artists, makers and, I’ve been told, Democrats! (Amen.) the city reminds us a bit of Duluth, with lots of grand old buildings in town and industrial fishery/mining buildings on the water. It also has a gorgeous park with jagged black rocks north of town on Presque Isle, where daredevil kids jump off high black rocks into the cold water.

Wedding photo on black rocks

Favorite shops/restaurants: baby cakes muffins (also excellent takeaway sandwiches, lemonade), zero degrees gallery (in the cool third Street corridor), the thoughtfully curated Snowbound books, Marquette co-op (which reminded me of the coop in Iowa City). We also enjoyed the Saturday farmers market (lots of flowers and tomatoes but no fruit, which I’ve been craving). We had a great dinner at Vierling brewery, a famous old place in a brick building by the waterfront, it was packed at 6:39 on. A Saturday but we found two seats at the bar and I had absolutely delicious whitefish piccata with wild rice.

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Tahquamenon Falls, grand Marais, Pictured Rocks, Sable Falls, Log Slide (dunes Overlook) , Twelvemile Beach, Lumberjack Tavern/Big Bay — Michigan’s U.P. at last

Dunes from Log Slide overlook

It’s taken 66 years for this native Michigander to make it to the Upper Peninsula. Quite the culture shock going from the upper-lower Peninsula (around Traverse City, Charlevoix, Harbor Springs). No more fruit stands, picture perfect farmsteads, manicured villages. As we’d been told, the UP, at least where we’ve been, along the Lake Superior coast, is much wilder, densely wooded, sparsely populated, with the occasional rough looking trailer or house, ammo stores, and way too many Trump signs. But once we got to the shoreline, I understood what the fuss is about. The landscape is spectacular, especially along Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore.

Tahquamenon falls

Grand Marais, a windswept outpost, is the gateway to the eastern entice to the shoreline. There wasn’t much to the town, beyond the exquisite scenery. We drove west to sable falls, a pretty waterfall in the woods, one of many up here but the real stunner was the view of the dunes from Log Slide overlook. From on high we looked out at a crescent shaped ball of dazzling green and blue water with steep dunes rising up from the shore line. (We also stopped at Tahquamenon Falls en route to Grand Marais, which rootbeer-colored water that reminded us of falls in northern Minnesota.)

Next stop, nearby twelvemile beach, where the water was surprisingly warm and the flies surprisingly undeterred by bug spray, alas. We stayed long enough to collect some rocks in so many astonishing color combinations (this is agate country, although I don’t know how to spot one.)

We are staying in a sweet little cottage Airbnb outside Marquette, In a rural county road. Dinner was a long haul to the very atmospheric Lumberjack Tavern, north of Marquette in Bay City which has an interesting claim to fame. Not only was it the scene of a murder in 1952 and a subsequent 1959 Otto Preminger movie about that murder, filmed onsite, starring Jimmy Stewart, George c. Scott, Lee Remnick, Ben gazzara and even Duke Ellington called Anatomy of a Murder. It’s very much a local hangout. We sat at high top shellacked rough edged wood tables and had a good bacon cheeseburger and watched the Lions on TV. When in Rome, err, the UP.

Lumberjack wannabe?

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Ray & Al’s in Galien and, now in Three Oaks (Allen Ray’s coffee place @ Commune+Market), Judy Ferrara Gallery, 3 Arbors Gallery, Viola’s Cafe, Home Camp flower Farm – southwest Michigan

Glad to be back here in the summer although the lake was tempestuous yesterday with 5-7 foot waves and frigid temp (58 degrees).plus Canadian smoke that dulled the fiery red sunset. The major evening activity here in Bridgman on Weko beach is watching the sunset and listening to someone play taps on the bugle. gotta love that.

We finally got around to eating lunch at Ray and Al’s, a charming little “lunch room” in an old building on the small main drag of the rural village of Galien, about 11 miles east of Three Oaks. It’s got that nice mix of nothing fancy but well done food (excellent tuna melt, hero sandwich) with dabs of antique decor and appealing (and remarkably reasonably priced) contemporary art.

The same people have opened a coffee place inside Commune+Market, a new community gathering spot in Three oaks with individual vendors inside a contemporary building. A few more spaces need filling but there’s a sweet stationary, small press shop there now. Viola’s cafe has opened under new management and is supposed to be good Cajun. We also visited two excellent galleries – Judy Ferrara and 3 arbors art (which represents the stunning art photography of Chicago artist Jessica Tampas, who took the author photo for my book. See bottom right of photo montage above.)

Next stop, Homecamp flower farm where we walked up and down the rows of the small farm clipping zinnias, wildflowers, ornamental thistles for a huge bouquet. Good value at $20. Tonight, we watched taps on the beach. Perfect.

Next visit to try: Out there and Farmette

Note to self: skip getting gas’s off interstate in Michigan city on an August Saturday. A zoo.

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Smoked whitefish, flying pig, Ruthann’s bakery in Bellaire, Chippewa trails camp/rapid city – up north (Michigan)

Chippewa trail camp for girls (remains)

We found even more to like in the village of Bellaire, which we appreciated for its unassuming charm and mellowness especially after visiting too-bustling-and-touristy Charlevoix and Harbor springs. No Hamptons-like fancy lifestyle stores or sports cars, here. Instead just the right amount of stuff catering in a low-key way to tourists. At The Flying Pig, we found reasonably priced repurposed furniture and handmade clothing. At Clayton’s, local crafts and candles; excellent ice tea at the local tea and spice store; plausible bagels and delicious chocolate chip cookies at Ruthann’s Bakery.

Bellaire shopping

(We were less impressed with the prepared food we found at Royal Farms, on the highway north of Bellaire.) Behind a Victorian house in the residential main drag we found the unlikely location of a smokehouse with smoked and fresh fish and meats, including pricey waygu beef and wine. I got my smoked whitefish fix.

Grass river nature are (and classic stone construction)

At Grass River Nature Area, we took an easy walk along boardwalks in a wooded swamp area, over quiet fast running streams to an overlook along the grassy shores of the river, envious of the occasional pontoon boat gliding by on this untouristed stretch of water.

Outside Rapid City on Elk Lake near Torch Lake, I managed to find my old summer camp (thanks to two street names of the nap: Chippewa Trail Rd and Chippewa Camp Road. They led to a restored sign for the defunct camp which is now a private residential neighborhood/community with some remnants of the camp! Several of the old brown wood cabins remain. Some were moved and combined to make a holiday home. A very nice guy invited us into his home – made of two joined cabins. Above his couch in the living room is a wall hanging made of pieces of the old cabin wall autographed by campers long ago. He invited me to look for my name or any others I might know. Surreal.

He also took me to another cojoined cabins concoction where we also looked at the names of the wall, dating back to 1969 (when I might have been a camper for two months.) Another cabin had the original sign from one of the cabins I bunked in. (Duayma!). The dining hall/lodge is still there (now a residence or communal space I think) as is the old stone Dutch oven and surrounding wood benches where we had pancake breakfasts. I knocked on one of the handful of new vacation homes on the lakefront because the owner is apparently a former camper but she wasn’t home.

Harbor springs (we stayed at the cove long ago).

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Bee Well mead & Cider and Short’s Brewery in Bellaire, Antrim creek Natural Area (beach); Bolt art studio and Bolt sweet corn, Mushroom houses, The landing by Ironton ferry (charlevoix)

This Airbnb is truly a hilltop hideaway, as advertised and it doesn’t disappoint. It’s up a winding road from the town of Bellaire, set off by itself in a clearing in the woods, one of those places that’s someones’s little piece of paradise, a labor of love to create and sustain. I generally like staying at these kinds of places.

Bellaire turned out to be a pleasant small town, enlivened by a Cidery (Bee well) and a brew pub (Short’s) plus an ice cream shop/fried chicken place. Much sleepier (and less expensive to stay in) than a major tourist town like Charlevoix, which is what we were looking for.

Our Airbnb guidebook highly recommended Antrim Creek natural area and we immediately saw why. It’s a wild feeling beach that has been remarkably unpopulated. Great place to take a dip in the water. The bottom is a combination of sand and rocks, and there are some big rocks too, so it’s a little tricky swimming, but great for cooling off, and again, only a handful of other people.

A highlight was seeing my “aunt” Sue Bolt, an old family friend and well known artist Up North and beyond. Long ago, she and her late husband made an old grange hall into their studio and after a lot of hard work became fixtures here with their whimsical

ceramics, sculpture, paintings and prints. We dropped by the Bolt studio, where Sue’s daughter, also an artist, warmly greeted us and later we got to catch up with Sue. A real treat. Later, we chanced by Bolt sweet corn so we stopped to say hi to Sue’s two sons and get some corn which was indeed, very sweet. The best we’ve had this season, anywhere.

We had a late lunch at The Landing, a famous place with patio tables overlooking the quaint Ironton Ferry. Place was packed but it was fun to be part of the crowd, enjoying a day up north, the food was good and there were lots of young energetic servers. We stopped briefly in downtown Charlevoix to admire the famously eccentric “mushroom houses” designed by a local untrained (I believe) architect.

Bellaire shopping

We also stopped briefly in Ernest Hemingway’s Charlevoix haunt, Horton Bay, but the cool old general store and Red Fox Inn (now a bookstore) weren’t open. We hope to return on Thursday when the general store may be open.

Horton Bay

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Mongers/The Rind and Catching Fireflies – Berkley, Mi and Cafe Corina in Farmington.

I was more of a Royal Oak gal growing up in suburban Detroit than a Berkley gal. But today I discovered Berkley anew, while visiting my family here. I generally thought of Berkeley’s business district as being along Coolidge road but turn the corner heading north on 12 mile and there is some interesting entrepreneurial stuff going on, the kind I associated with Royal Oak.

We had a charcuterie board at The Rind, the restaurant in the shop Mongers (as in cheese mongers), which also has excellent fresh soups (tomato, mushroom) and sandwiches (grilled cheese with bacon; a hefty muffuletta). The gourmet food area next to the dining area has lots of well-chosen cheeses (Pleasant ridge!), cured meats, chocolates etc. The cheese monger world is tight knit. The Monger owner told me he’s hung out with other cheese mongers I know including my cousin in Great Barrington, MA (@ Rubiner’s cheesemongers) and in Des Moines (The Cheese shop).

Next door we found a gift store I first visited in Ann Arbor, Catching Fireflies, which turned out to be the original store, in Berkley for some 20 years. Who knew?

Dinner was hearty Italian food at the old school Cafe Cortina in Farmington which has been around since the 1970s, I believe.

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Zingerman’s, of course@Ann Arbor, emagine movie theater@Royal Oak, whistle stop and Phoenicia @Birmingham – suburban Detroit

Zingerman’s Deli

We made such good time on our drive from Chicago to Detroit – and the weather was suddenly sunny and a balmy 57 degrees- that we had time to stop en route for lunch at zingerman’s in Ann Arbor. I wisely called ahead to order our sandwich (lean corned beef, coleslaw, emmenthaler cheese, Russian dressing on hardy bread) so it was waiting when we arrived. Otherwise the wait time was one hour for a sandwich. I also got some outstanding chopped liver (from Amish chickens, supposedly.)

We had fun looking at all the cheeses, including Lively Run, a Finger Lakes fav (NY) and cured meats and Michigan products including American spoon (red haven peach preserves) and Cherry Republic.

We explored a farmers market across the street and Catching Fireflies, a fun shop with Michigan gifts. We were apparently in the Kerrytown Shopping area, with historic 19th- century buildings from lumber and agriculture purveyors in this town best known for the University of Michigan.

Whistlestop

On a dreary rainy Sunday we went to the Emagine (yes, E not I) theater to see the new Bob Dylan bio pic, which was excellent. This was our second movie theater outing since 2020 (pre-pandemic). We sat in snazzy fake leather recliners, reserved in advance, row D not too close to the giant screen. The sound was loud but fortunately the movie was full of music not noisy battles from some blockbuster action movie.

We had a pleasant late lunch/brunch (good eggs, sausage, blt) at The Whistlestop cafe in Birmingham and dinner (upscale Mediterranean/middle eastern) earlier at Phoenicia in Birmingham.

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We’re not on RAGBRAI any more – the Apple Cider Century (ACC) ride in southwest Michigan

First, we did not ride a century (100 Miles). Fortunately this celebrated annual bike ride in southwest Michigan offered plenty of route options (15, 25, 37, 50, 100) and there was no shaming. We all rode the same last stretch into Three Oaks, Mi. there was no way necessarily to know who rode 15 miles or 100. Dirck and I contemplated chatting loudly as we rode into Three Oaks about how “the first 75 miles were a breeze, but those last 25, man they were tough.”

In truth we road about 34 miles, we think, since we shaved off one wee bit of the 37 mile route (that dipped into Indiana). It was a lovely ride. Mostly flat but with a variety of scenery, from farms with old barns, yellowing corn and browning soybeans outside Three Oaks to big mansions and charming small cottages, old inns (Gordon Beach and Lakeside Inn) and camp along Lake Michigan in New Buffalo and Lakeside to exurbia who-knows-where-exactly with the occasional McMansion or Hamptons-like faux chateau or denser communities of luxury houses or mobile homes on the way back through the woods to Three Oaks.

We couldn’t help comparing the ACC experience to RAGRAI, the Des Moines Registers’s annual great ride across Iowa, which I have partially ridden several times (1 to 3 days) and dirck has done in full (seven days). We saw several RAGBRAI bike jerseys and one woman bragged that she’d ridden ragbrai 21 times. Interesting to find out that the ACC ride and Ragbrai are both 51 this year. RAGBRAI is much longer (a week not a day) and much more of a production to ride and organize. It’s also a lot hillier, windier, hotter (in late July) and challenging, often with 70 or more mile days, one day after another.

Our improvised route
Gordon Beach inn

I loved that the ACC was so chill. Much smaller so no lines. I was surprised that there were no vendors along the route – no eating your way across Michigan, as in Iowa. No Mr. Pork Chop or loud hand -cranked ice cream machine or pop-up beer gardens. No beer at all, or circus. No “teams” wearing tutus or tiny port-a-potties on their helmets. Or riders trailing boom boxes blaring music.

Very different scene. The only vendor we encountered was a few girls serving free lemonade outside a contemporary house near Lake Michigan. A pumpkin farm also had free cider. We stopped at Roar, an art gallery in a big red barn in Three Oaks, which kindly laid out candy for riders and had the most immaculate port-a-potty I’ve encountered. I appeared to be the first customer, judging from the toilet paper roll which did not roll. (figuring out where to tear it was a challenge.) the gallery owner, whose work exhibited includes his own, also runs a cool Airbnb in Sawyer called Ozzie’s Place.

Roar Art gallery inside the red barn in Three oaks

We encountered only one official “sag stop” on the grounds of a pretty old yellow house in a clearing in the woods and much appreciated the free cider, apples, bananas, trail mix, cookies. water. At the end of the ride, people piled into a Catholic Church hall in Three Oaks for a free spaghetti dinner (spaghetti never tasted so good) and, shades of RAGBRAI, church women served slices of apple or pumpkin pie. No lines. No crowds. No traffic jams. No exhaustion. No major hills. Some families. Lots of Chicagoans. What looked like a few Detroiters.

I wondered how the five different routes would overlap and be marked. EASY Peasy. There were occasional spray painted apples on the street, each route coded a different color. We mostly followed the blue apple signs for the 37 mile ride. and there was enough overlap that we could edit the route, cutting off a little here (sorry, Indiana, maybe we’ll ride your way next time) and adding a little there (to make sure we rode along the lake, a highlight.) Anyway, totally fun and well run and we hope to return.

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Canvassing for Dems in New Buffalo; apple/pumpkin shopping on Cleveland road thru Galien (Ray and Al’s), Baroda, St. Joseph; wanderlust in St.Joe; Houndstooth in Benton Harbor – Southwest Michigan

Fun with skeletons – wading pool

By the end of this busy day in southwest Michigan, we had a car full of bike shirts, democratic candidate fliers, apples, cider and pumpkins, which reflects the dual nature of the day. We spent much of it canvassing for democratic candidates in New Buffalo, volunteering on behalf of the Michigan Dems – visiting streets completely off the tourist path in New Buffalo, which was interesting. We encountered a mix of friendly Dems and sometimes hostile Trumpers. One woman slammed the door in my face after declaring she’d never vote for “that woman,” i.e. Kamala Harris. Other republicans were more pleasant.

More fun with skeletons

We also were in the area for the annual Apple Cider Bike Ride that happens tomorrow. We went to the registration in a Catholic church in Three Oaks, where there was also a very good sale on bikeshirts in a nearby tent. Later in the day, after canvassing, we returned to Three Oaks for the bike ride’s “ice cream social” which was fun. We lined up for free ice cream (Michigan pothole, my new fav, was an option) and popcorn which we ate in a little park in town where a blues band played in a gazebo.

Apple Cider Ride ice cream social

We took the backroad Cleveland (the name of our street in Chicago) to the Twin Maples apple orchard north of Galien (pronounced Ga-leen, home of Ray and Al’s cafe, which remains on my must-try list). (UPDATE: The cafe opened an offshoot in THREE OAKS — Commune+Market, a new coffee shop and expansive event space, is set to open its doors in the heart of downtown Three Oaks at 105 North Elm St. Source: Harbor Country News
https://search.app/38eUeVg2UJQ85qfp8)

We picked up some Jonathan apples (uncommonly huge and red) for applesauce-making, plus some mutsu apples and honeycrisps for eating and some cider. We had a pretty drive further north (marred only by too many Trump signs) through Baroda, stopping outside st. Joseph at devries farm to pick up some pumpkins and unusual gourds.

Houndstooth fare: poke with avocado in blackberry ponzu sauce and Japanese milk bread with black garlic and chives.

Dinner at Houndstooth in Benton Harbor did not disappoint. It helped that the clerk at an outfitters shop (wanderlust) in St. Joes excitedly recommended what we should order, down to the drink (WaffleHouse, an odd name for what tasted and looked like elegant lemonade). The Japanese milk bread was fabulous (which I would not have thought to order had the clerk not recommended).

Houndstooth neighbor: “Hi-steppin Menswear suits-tuxedos-leisure sets“

She also recommended the passion fruit panne cotta with little pieces of meringue for desert which was as delicious as it was beautiful to look at. Looked like mini birch tree branches in a creamy bright yellow sea. We sat on the patio which fortunately was not deserted but next time I’d like to try the dining room which was hopping. Strange to find such life inside a building on otherwise lifeless streets but I’m guessing affordable rents in this struggling town made it possible for a talented chef to set up shop.

Twin Maple apples

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