Pretty morning after a big storm in Dubuque, Iowa. Our Airbnb is an old red brick row house in a gentrifying neighborhood downtown. Sitting on the second level wooden back deck, overlooking a narrow brick alley lined with other two story red brick houses and lots of trees, flawless blue sky where last night there were jagged shards and sometimes huge sheets of lightening, listening to the birds, the occasional passing train and cars, watching five Hispanic boys ride by in the alley on bikes, I am reminded of another river town ….Easton, Pennsylvania, except my grandma’s red brick row house was high on a hill and had a big open front porch where we used to sit for hours on old red and white wood rocking chairs.
Last night, during a pause in the storm, we drove under a double rainbow (really) past farm fields bathed in a surreal post-storm yellow light into the tiny north central Iowa town of Steamboat Rock, where we found a perfect picnic table in a small city park (wayside park) by the Iowa River, under an overhang of an old park building that shielded us from the rain still dripping off the trees and provided a lovely view from the glistening grassy river bank of birds dipping into the water. On to Wisconsin!
I didn’t doubt for a moment that Provisions would be a good place to eat in Ames because it came recommended by my friend Veronica, a longtime resident, superb cook and discerning diner. But without Veronica’s recommendation, I might have dismissed Provisions out of hand because of its unpromising location in a nondescript land of bland office parks, on the side of Loop Road, no less.
But the food was fabulous — and I am already longing to return for the salmon sandwich I had on a dark brown brioche roll. The salmon was lightly grilled but moist, full of flavor, on that gorgeous slightly sweet roll with slices of cucumber and a light dill sour cream sauce. The hamburger (which the two Iowa State University students we were visiting ordered) also looked superb and the Cuban sandwich was also good. My sister was very happy with her grilled salmon atop greens – which is a go to entree for her but still managed to be special. My only regret is that I could not take home one of the homemade breads (especially cranberry pecan) from the to-go counter which was closed by the time we left. We’ll be back! Thank you Veronica!
Impressed, as always, with developments in Dubuque. At the recommendation of our host at Four Mounds, we drove to nearby Convivium a cafe/event space/urban farm headquarters in a somewhat gentrifying north Dubuque neighborhood. Impressive place that opened recently, with a light airy dining area including a coop with fresh chicks, a mural from a world-class artist (part of a broader mural project of murals scattered throughout Dubuque) and artwork by locals on the walls. Convivium, as I understand it, is the headquarters of an urban farm project with an interesting model — the gardens are in borrowed space in the backyards of people living houses neighboring the cafe.
We also stopped at a bakery and shops in wide open space in the Millwork District, a gentrifying warehouse district near the River. Dinner the night before was good at L.May downtown. (Excellent pork shanks).
The weather was gloomy when we woke up at Four Mounds but we had an excellent breakfast and chat with the caretaker (who sent us to Convivium) and I got a chance to walk around the grounds and wander around the other lovely house on the property (the White House…we stayed in the Grey House.) I learned that Four Mounds was part of the “gentleman farmer movement” (1880s to 1930s). The owners were a wealthy Chicago couple who also lived part of the year in California. I’ve heard about gentlemen farmers but not of an actual movement. (And why no mention of gentlewoman farmers?)
TakeBetsywithyou 