Category Archives: Iowa

South American food tour in Des Moines

Anyone who eats out in Des Moines – or aspires to – has noticed a sudden profusion of South American restaurants in town – Peruvian (an elegant little place called Panka on Ingersoll Ave), Argentinian, Brazilian and Ecuadoran. Apparently the mass is critical enough to warrant a South American food tour (on July 27 and Oct. 5) —  Check out this story in the DSM Register. https://www.desmoinesregister.com/story/entertainment/dining/2019/06/18/wow-des-moines-tours-launches-south-american-cuisine-peru-colombis-argentina-brazil-near-me/1485577001/

(It mentions Columbian food too – don’t know what restaurant serves that!)

 

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Visiting the Caucus Bistro in Ladora, Iowa

We were on our way to hear 19 – yes 19 – Democrats vying to be the presidential nominee in Iowa’s first-in-the-nation presidential contest. We were braced to be hungry — the Democratic party event in Cedar Rapids promised to be long, with little to no food. So what better time to visit the new cleverly-named Caucus Bistro in the small town of Ladora, Iowa — about midway between our house in Des Moines and the hotel ballroom in Cedar Rapids where Democrats including Bernie Sanders, Elizabeth Warren, Kirsten Gillibrand (see photo op below), Kamala Harris, Beto O’Rourke, Amy Klohbuchar and “Mayor Pete” (so-named because I can’t remember how to spell his last name, although I think I now know how to pronounce it).

Located along two-lane Highway 6, the Caucus Bistro is inside a restored almost 100-year-old “jewel box-style” bank — a once-elegant, still-faded sandstone-colored brick building with two huge Doric columns. Inside, the imposing building turned out to be as cool as its caucus-themed decor. The main restaurant is one small square with a very high ceiling and architectural reliefs of columns and a band of zigzag adornment (the kind with the occasional swastika, pre-Hitler’s appropriation) and portentous sayings in adorned letters crawling across the tops of each wall that presumably made you comfortable stashing your hard-earned money in such an institution. (“Wealth is the Achievement of Thrift” “Frugality is the Parent of Fortune” and so forth…) Sadly the bank didn’t last long. Opened in 1920, it closed 11 years later and fell into disrepair.

We sat in the bar area — behind the still-remaining wood booths for the tellers, complete with little brass hooks beside each that the enthusiastic owner told us were used by tellers to hang their visors. (question: why did bank tellers wear visors?) The place is decorated with great old photos from caucuses past – George H.W. Bush running with a girls cross country team in Des Moines; then -presidential candidate Bill Clinton sitting on a hay bale with then-Iowa senator Tom Harkin, etc.

We enjoyed our two flatbreads — the Lame Duck and the Challenger – both made on thin naan, brushed with oil or butter and flecked with this-n’-that and served on a slate board. The “Inaugural balls” — 3 balls of cookie dough, topped with syrup and accompanied by a few square pretzel bits – were way too sweet.

But the place is well worth a visit!

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Queer Abstraction show opens at the Des Moines Art Center

Word has it over 900 people showed up last Saturday night (June 1) for the Des Moines Center’s first show to feature the artwork of LGBT&Q artists…The crowd included many members of the “queer” community, some drag queens, no shortage of presumably straight folks and me. It was a great celebration – with food, drink, music – and, of course, work by 15 artists that is well worth a visit to see! Oh and it also won a major prize from Sotheby’s: https://www.sothebys.com/en/articles/sothebys-prize-winning-queer-abstraction-exhibition-breaks-new-ground-in-iowa

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Dodging tornadoes in Iowa/cheese 101 at Eataly in Chicagol

We somehow managed to drive from Des Moines to Chicago last night without directly encountering any of the storms that were popping up all around us. Outside Iowa City on I-80, we saw scary looking white clouds (which may or may not have produced the tornado we learned touched down about 25 minutes before we passed through) and in Illinois, lightning lit up the dark night just south of us and north of us off and on. Needless to say, we were very happy when we got to Chicago around midnight.

Today, the weather was much more pleasant than anticipated in Chicago, sunny and warm instead of rainy. We spent two hours at the scoula on the second floor of eataly, taking a very fun cheese and wine tasting class that emma and rocket got me for my birthday. Great gift idea and we sampled 6 cheeses, and 3 “natural” wines and learned everything we ever wanted to know about to cheese from the cheesemonger.

Cheeses we tried and enjoyed (all of those served): casa Madaio, Canestrato, Campania; Jasper hill, Bayley Haven Blue, Vermont; Agriform,, Parmigiano; Arrigoni, quartirolo Lombardo; ca de’ambros, Nocetto di capra (goat cheese) Guffanti, sola…wine: micro Marriott I, Bianco dell’emilia

Dinner was very good at a place with the unappetizing name:Income Tax in Edgewater. Mediterranean fare.

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Iowa Spring Barn Tour – June 22-23 – read all about it here!

The Iowa Barn Foundation’s Spring Barn Tour is June 22-23 in Dubuque and Clayton counties. Here’s a story I wrote about it – and the annual fall tour – for the Minneapolis Star Tribune. Click here.

Midwest Traveler: Iowa barn tours tell the story of the state

So many barns, so little time: Two annual Iowa events inspire dreaming of country life.

By Betsy Rubiner Special to the Star Tribune

MAY 16, 2019 — 5:47PM

PHOTOS BY BETSY RUBINER • SPECIAL TO THE STAR TRIBUNE

 

Red barn or white barn? Wood barn or stone barn? My husband and I have long debated these hypothetical questions on meandering drives through rural Iowa, admiring tidy farmsteads and dreaming — only dreaming — of a life in the country.

But I found myself debating between a standard rectangular barn, a rare round barn or an even rarer square barn after visiting well-tended examples of each during Iowa’s annual All-State Barn Tour, a free, self-guided event featuring 85 restored barns dating from the mid-1800s to the early 1900s.

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A perfect 60th birthday meal at Harbinger — Des Moines

I get why the chef at the small Des Moines restaurant Harbinger is a semifinalist for a James Beard award (Best Chef, Midwest). We just had a superb meal there to mark my 60th birthday. We’d been once before – during restaurant week when we ate small bites of small plates for a small price. This time, we got bigger bites of small plates for a not-as-small-but-still-reasonable price — and the food made even more of an impression, a good one. Almost all the “plates” had an Asian twist — Vietnamese, Thai or Japanese — and almost every one was something we’d never eaten before.

We had two appetizers —  the first was “tapioca and pecorino fritters” –2-inch crispy-on-the-outside-moist-on-the-inside logs of yes, tapioca and tangy cheese in a spicy tomato sauce. Delicious. So were the Prince Edward Island mussels in a light but spicy Thai coconut milk sauce.

The small plates we tried (and enjoyed) were:

  • A bowl with moist coconut rice, large pieces of  Berkshire pork shank (“braised in Chinese aromatics” and roasted chili vinegar).
  • Fresh spinach with sweet cipolla onions and strawberries somehow dried akin to raisins.
  • Two small steamed buns — one with spicy sriracha chicken, the other with a grilled pork belly in a sweet Hoisin sauce.
Dessert, which was on the house because it was my birthday, was a “YUZU KOSHO tartlet”* which tasted sort of like a deconstructed lemon meringue pie but looked nothing like one. There was a big pale yellow blob of lemon curd with a little chili kick that looked like a large creamy egg yolk and then a small tail of cooked blue berries, little white blobs of creamy meringue and chips of what we were told was part of a fortune cookie. It was clever and superb!
Note to self: return for the happy hour and the weekend brunch!
* This from Wikipedia: Yuzu is a Japanese citrus fruit that looks like a lemon. Yuzukoshō  is Japanese seasoning, a paste made from chili peppers, yuzu peel and salt, which is then fermented. It is usually used as a condiment for nabemono dishes, miso soup, and sashimi.

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Improvising on the bike trails in Des Moines

Bike Riding in Norway (not DSM) in June 2018

Spring – and Des Moines’ bike trails beckon! But this spring, like many others, is tricky for riders (and walkers), thanks to flooding and construction. On our first ride of the season, yesterday — a gorgeous spring Easter Sunday — D and I set out on the Inter-urban Trail north of our house in Beaverdale and rode east toward the Neal Smith/Dorrian trail along the Des Moines River.   Within minutes, we encountered flooding and closures. Nevertheless, we persisted.

Crossing the trestle bridge over the river, we ended up going straight on a new dirt trail spur that led us toward McHenry Park (we think) and then back onto the Smith/Dorrian trail briefly. As we figured, the portion of the trail hugging the river north of Birdland Marina was flooded but we didn’t expect the road paralleling the trail to be torn up (apparently under construction). Instead of navigating dirt and gravel,  we ended up walking our bikes up a grassy embankment and taking what turned out to be another detour, in an industrial area near North High. We ended up just south of Union Park and Birdland Marina, where we again encountered torn up trail so we walked our bikes up the hill past Captain Roy’s, a popular riverside bar and restaurant. (Braver souls rode on the street.) From there we had smooth sailing past the Botanical Center into the East Village, past Principal Park and west along the Raccoon River to Gray’s Lake where we encountered more construction but it was easily navigated, in part because the road around the lake is closed to cars so it’s wide open for bikers and walkers.

More smooth sailing in Waterworks Park, even along the river where there is often flooding. And no issues — except my out-of-shape body (this was my first ride in nine months, since breaking my arm in July 2018 in Norway) — as we chugged up the road past Ashworth Pool, Greenwood Park, The Des Moines Art Center and along Polk Boulevard and Roosevelt High school home to Forestdale. Oh happy day!

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Scenic retreat – Loya’s B&B near Ames

Rare to hear about an old-style bed and breakfast (vs. an airbnb) but Family Living (the Iowa Farm Bureau publication edited by my husband) recently did a big splash about a farm family that operates Loya’s Little House B&B, north of Ames in the Skunk River Valley, about 15 minutes from the Iowa State Campus. It looks like a very nice house in a lovely rural location, a former family farm on 80 acres. An unexpected touch: Costa Rican-influenced breakfast, thanks to a young farm family member who married a Costa Rica native. The B&B’s four bedrooms can be rented individually or in total, sleeping 16. Good to know, especially around Iowa State graduation time!

 

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Adventures in southwest Iowa – Sidney, Shenandoah, and Red Oak

Lovely drive through rural Iowa to visit a remarkable 99-year-old woman in the small town of Sidney, famous for its rodeo. I stopped at a 19th-century drug store. And in the town square, I admired the ceramic cowboy boots adorning the street lamps by the Fremont County Courthouse. In Red Oak, I admired Montgomery County’s elegant red court house.

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Trying Al Punto (Argentian) and return to Panka (Peruvian) — the South American restaurant craze in Des Moines

We tried out the latest South American restaurant in town, Al Punto — serving meat-centric Argentinian fare in a strip mall in the Des Moines suburb of Windsor Heights. I’m hesitant to knock any earnest newcomer but the menu was too limited and  meat-heavy, albeit quality meat-heavy for me.  There seemed to be too much emphasis on volume, although I gather that’s the Argentinian way (and the Brazilian way).  My husband and I would have preferred to share the restaurant’s signature entree — the $30 per person mixed meat/vegetable grill aka “Gaucho Experience”  — but were discouraged from doing so (for starters, we were told it would cost $10 to share) so we both went Gaucho, along with our friend D.  and ended up taking much of it home.

The meat arrived on a portable wood-fired “Parrillada” grill — a heap of beef, lamb, chicken, chorizo, red peppers, onions and asparagus that looked less alluring to eat than daunting to tackle. The meat was  well-seasoned and well-cooked.  There was just too much of it.  It was served with delicious garlic potatoes and excellent homemade chimichurri sauce (which greatly enhanced the meat and veg). It also came good beef empanadas (although we would have preferred something other than beef but the two other options listed on the menu weren’t available) – plus a choice of starters including Cesar salad (so-so) and deviled eggs stuffed with salmon salad ( too rich and pale pink for me). One of our party did get shrimp as an entree — huge “Wild Argentinian red shrimp” – – which also arrived in a big mound.

 

Meanwhile, I’ve returned twice to the new Peruvian restaurant in town, Panka and continue to be impressed. Maybe I just prefer Peruvian cuisine to Argentinian — especially wide and diverse selection, including light options such as ceviche.  I tried a second soup — a perfectly seasoned Chupe de Camarones, hearty chowder with pieces of shrimp and chunks of creamy yellow potatoes – and a delicious Causa de Cangrejo (an attractive round mound layered with yellow mashed potatoes, slices of avocado and crabmeat.) There are still many things I want to try on the menu, although I already have some favorites I’d love to eat again…

 

 

Shrimp Chowder at Panka (and almost-devoured Causa to the right). The purple drink is a Peruvian classic — Chicha Morada, made with purple corn, fruit and spices.

 

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