Category Archives: Iowa

The best bike trail in Iowa City – still looking

We tried again last weekend to cobble out a decent bike ride via trail in Iowa City and did only slightly better this time than last time – a few years ago. Part of it has to do with the lingering devastation from the 2008 flood – which wiped out some of the trail along the Iowa River – not to mention several major arts buildings including Hancher Auditorium. (It was sobering to pass by those hollow wrecked buildings.)

Part of it is that Iowa City doesn’t have the trail system of a place like Des Moines to begin with – and no casino revenues like in DM to construct and pave trails. We did begin at the southern end of the Iowa River Corridor trail south of town and it got off to a pleasant enough start – a tree-lined winding trail along the river but then it got diffuse and hard to follow around campus and when we picked it up again at the city park north of Hancher, the trail petered out into  haphazardly marked residential streets and  then it dumped us out with no further explanation – just as happened during our previous ride – on a commercial strip under construction (again still-recovering from the 2008 flood). We ended up taking a sharp right and winding through a very odd housing development – what’s called the Peninsula  Neighborhood – that looked completely out of place with mock-old urban architecture in a rural setting. It felt like a movie set. Granted the brick rowhouses and single-family new-old home cottages and bungalows are  attractive – but looklike they belongin Baltimore or maybe Washington D.C.

We did manage to make the ride into a bit of a loop, riding past the housing development and a golf course to the north end of the city park where we rode through downtown and campus to catch the trail back to our car.

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Filed under bike trails, biking, Iowa City

Edible Iowa in Dubuque County

No, you don’t have to actually EAT Iowa but eating in Iowa is getting better everyday and Edible Iowa River Valley magazine often offers proof of this. Here’s some tips from the latest issue:

– In Dyersville, it recommends Joe’s Place for good ol American food (burgers, fries,wraps) AND a fresh Thai buffet “rumored to be excellent.” who’d a thunk it? Next up, visit Groovy Grounds, the hipster coffee joint in town.  good pastries too.  and then there’s The English Pub which word tell has a killer Bloody Mary.

– Also in Eastern Iowa’s Dubuque County: Park Farm Winery in Bankston, likened to Tuscany w/gorgeous building and grounds.

– In Dubuque, Breitbach’s Farmers Market Food Store is the place to go and I’m guessing it’s somehow related to the famous restaurant in nearby Balltown that has twice burned down and been rebuilt recently. Good restaurants there: L. May and Pepper Sprout (fanciest) and Manna Java for pizza.

All duly noted for my next visit to my favorite part of Iowa.

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Filed under DINING, Iowa

Conrad Iowa?

A recent story in Midwest Living on hole-in-the-wall restaurants in the midwest mentioned the Cozy Inn, an old favorite in Salina, but also That Place, in Conrad, Iowa which is allegedly near Des Moines. I had not heard of Conrad or The Place or its great pie so mention here so I can remember to try to find and try.

What: That Place
Where: Off Highway 14 outside Conrad, about 10 miles north of Marshalltown

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Filed under Des Moines, DINING

On the Raccoon River Valley Trail – Redfield to Panora Iowa

Biking was hot and slow on the trail today from Redfield to Panora, Ia. (farm country about 45 minutes west of Des Moines), with the weather warmer and more humid than expected (92 degrees; who knows what percent humidity) but as always the ride  had its moments – we spotted three large raccoons (we think they were raccoons) crossing the trail, numerous exotic black and blue butterflies, a cyclist on a recombinant bike carrying a violin. (Yes, that was a violin.)

And there’s always ice cream. We used to go to PJs, a popular spot right on the edge of the trail when you arrive in Panora but one time it was closed so we asked around and found out about the 44 Drive In, west of town, past the small brick shops downtown. It’s nothing fancy – which is part of its charm. Just an old white and red trailer with a worn sign that smells a bit like onion rings and burgers, which we’ve never had. But the place is always busy. The malts are good and a small twist cone does the trick when you’re looking for a little kick.

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Filed under bike trails, biking, Des Moines, DINING, Iowa

A little Lollapalooza in Des Moines

Des Moines is getting some mighty nice spillover from the massive Lollapalooza music festival in Chicago, where my 18-year-old son is no doubt having the time of his life, along with his half-sister.  Two bands that are playing to thousands of people in the Windy City this weekend will play on much smaller more intimate stages in Des Moines soon after. The Black Keys play at the funky old Val Air Ballroom here on Sunday and even more surprisingly, Phoenix plays at People’s Court, a smaller venue in downtown Des Moines, on Tuesday (we’ll be there…and maybe at the Black Keys too – I’m a fan of the theme song they wrote for the new HBO show “Hung,” which also is set in my hometown of Detroit.)

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Filed under Chicago, Des Moines, Iowa, music

More on Decorah, Iowa

Just for the record, we tried a few other restaurants along Water Street in Decorah – good sandwiches (although not the swiftest service) at Ede’s Gourmet and the Angry Pickle Deli (although I didn’t get an pickle, angry or not); and potent wake-me-up coffee and light not-too-sweet lemon poppy muffin tops at Java John’s, a welcoming,  bright and cheerful coffee house (vs. a dark, smokey,  grumpy, surly or hipper-than-thou coffee house, I’ve been to them all.)

Would have tried the sophisticated Rubaiyat:Food for Thought restaurant again (I had a great hamburger at the bar there last year) if it had been open Sunday night. We also dropped by the lovely Hotel Winneshiek which seems to be holding its own. (I always worry about these beautifully restored luxury boutique hotels in small towns after watching the exceptional Hotel Pattee in Perry, Ia. struggle.)

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Filed under DINING, Iowa, LODGING

Canoeing on the Upper Iowa River

Just back from northeast Iowa where my daughter, a friend and her teen-age son, rented a small cabin and two canoes at Chimney Rock Campgrounds near Cresco and Bluffton, Ia.  We requested a two-hour canoe ride but it was a lot less – largely I think because the river was so full and the current fast. We barely had to paddle – just steer every once in a while to keep from banging into a low-hanging tree along the shore. We stopped at a sandbar/rock-bar and body-surfed a patch of the river, allowing ourselves to get caught up and swept by the current which was fun albeit a tad scary since we had to land and stand against the same said current but no problems – two of us were/are lifeguards (I’m a little rusty but my friends 17-year-old son is a newbie.) The water was refreshing, not too cold. Paddling past the high stone bluffs rimmed with lush green trees was lovely.

Decorah is definitely in the running for Iowa’s pretty small-town college town – full of Queen Anne homes and interesting shops and restaurants along Water Street (the main street – not “Main Street” one street to the west). It was quiet on a Sunday night – except inside Mabe’s Pizza where half the town seemed to be eating – big families, little families, young kids, older folks. Nothing fancy but decent pizza with an interesting thin crust that bordered on a cracker in parts (and the 17-year-old teen in our group ate a cheeseburger served with a dollop of peanut butter. Sounds disgusting but he said it wasn’t bad. My daughter and I had the minipizzas and two drinks – $14 for dinner. not bad.

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Filed under Adventure travel, Iowa

Social B&B networks – the ultimate test:Iowa

Granted, my criteria for the usefulness of Social B&B networks is a bit Iowa-centric – but be that as it may, the only network I could find that included listings for places like Des Moines or Lawrence Kansas is…..airb&B.com

So good for them – and me. Interestingly, since the NYTimes story on these sites ran last Sunday, the number of Iowa options has grown from about 7 to 12. Not all have what I consider to be all-important photos of the lodging – and at least one of the photos was off-putting (two women standing in a worn and cluttered living room with a sagging couch draped in an old quilt. No thank you.)

But there are some great-looking options – a farm house in Cumming outside Des Moines ($30 a night); a beautiful cottage with a front porch overlooking the Mississippi in Dubuque ($100), a 19th-century restored cabin in Decorah ($100), some intriguing vintage trailers ($75) in the woods outside Sioux City owned by some artists and a pretty “historic home” in Iowa City ($55). There’s also an odd Quonset hut dwelling in Dickens, Ia  (in northwest Iowa near Spencer) that apparently doubles as an artists’ studio/gallery space. ($50)

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Filed under b&b, Des Moines, Iowa, LODGING

frustrating search for cabin/canoe in northeast Iowa

I’ve been trying for two days to reach a cabin/canoe rental place near Decorah in beautiful northeast Iowa to see if it has anything available on Aug. 1 for four people (me, a friend and our two teens visiting a nearby college) but it’s been frustrating. I’ve left emails and phone messages and heard nothing back. I did check with the tourism office and the place is still open but sparsely staffed (they’re probably all out canoeing.)

I can’t understand why businesses like this offer ways to communicate then don’t respond. The email address is particularly frustrating because when you try to use it up pops a message saying you need to go through a screening in order to use the email.  Huh?

Meanwhile, I heard about another place and tried to contact it via the Internet but you need a Facebook account to reach them – which I don’t have and don’t want.

Come on people – don’t you want my business?

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Filed under Adventure travel, Iowa, LODGING

Portaging a bike on the Great Western Trail in central Iowa

I’ve portaged  a canoe, hauling it on my shoulders across land between one lake and another, but I never portaged a bicycle until yesterday on the Great Western Trail just north of Martinsdale, Iowa.  Fortunately, we didn’t have to haul our bikes  far – just lift them up and between the branches of a tree that had fallen across the trail, completely blocking it. The trail was  rough in general, with fallen twigs and branches, thanks to a ferocious storm in the wee hours of Sunday morning that downed trees all over the metro and caused power outages.

We should have taken this into consideration when we choose a trail to ride on a few hours later.

The good news is after we portaged our bikes, we encountered a truck on the trail – a rare and jarring sight – that appeared to be public works of some sort.  An hour later, on our ride back to Martinsdale, the fallen tree was gone and we breezed right through – no further portaging required. Impressive service!

All this made me wonder if there is a trail hot line you can call to find out the condition on a trail – or to report a problem like a fallen tree.

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Filed under bike trails, Des Moines, Iowa