Tag Archives: peru travel

Why we’re wiring money to a Bolivian man living in Peru….

The first coat of arms of Bolivia, formerly named as the Republic of Bolívar in honor of Simón Bolívar.

I got so frustrated with unsatisfactory answers from various Peruvian authorities on the basic point of HOW TO BUY ADVANCE TICKETS TO MACHU PICCHU that I have finally decided to go through our hotel in Peru’s Sacred Valley (a prime launching pad for people visiting MP) to get tickets. Hopefully this will work but it seems a bit iffy right now. We have to wire $120 for two tickets  via Western Union to a man who works at the hotel, who will then  buy the tickets for us – for a modest commission plus whatever it costs to wire money these days (haven’t done that in three years, since we needed to send our son some money when he was living in Poland.)

In addition we had to give this man our passport numbers (which are required to buy the MP tickets) and a few other distinguishing characteristics (our date of birth, nationality, etc.) and he, in turn, gave us  information about himself that we apparently need to include when we wire money so he can pick up the wire transaction. (This is how we found out he’s Bolivian…he also sent us his passport number and home address, not the hotel address.)

At this point, we have no reason to think he’s not reputable – the hotel he works for is recommended by at least one travel guide I’ve used.  But I’m still uneasy about the whole thing – especially handing over personal info and money to a total stranger in this age of “identity theft” and old-fashioned money theft.  I fault Peruvian officials for NOT making the process much clearer and easier for tourists to understand and follow. After all, MP is their major tourist attraction – and we are spending a lot of time and money to try to get there.

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Notes for Peru

Before I return my Peru travel guides to the library, time to jot down a few notes:

From Fodor’s: (other good book: Cusco and Machu Picchu from Moon Handbooks)

– ESSENTIAL PERU ITINERARY: Day 1: Lima; Day 2: cusco; Day 3: sacred Valley; Days 4 and 5: machu Picchu; Day 6: cusco to Lima (my aunt has recommended day 2 in Sacred valley (to get used to the altitude) then days 3-4 in Cusco and day 5 in Machu Picchu; with Amazon River extension: Day 6: cusco; Day 7-10 Iquitos and Amazon Cruise. (We’ll also spend more time in Lima because our son will be living there.)

– Lima where to stay: Barranco neighborhood vibe “bohemain, historic atmosphere, appeas to younger people; pros: neighborhood vibe; cons plenty of fbars, restaurants, lovely architecture (methinks this was a tongue-in-cheek “con”). Second Home Peru!!

– Cusco, where to stay: Ninos Hotel – i.e. children’s hotel. Not only sounds like a lovely place but proceeds donated to are of local disadvantaged children. Sounds too good to be true. “immensely popular” so must book way ahead.

– Sacred Valley – Pisac market! (tuesday, thursday, Sunday) and town of Ollantaytambo and salt pans at Salineras (below)

File:030-Las Salineras.JPG

which remind me of the calcium-deposit waterfalls in Turkey’s Pamukkale (below).

Pamukkale, with pools of water from hot springs
Country Turkey

– When to go: Sundays are free for locals so busier in Cusco then.  “for near-ideal weather and manageable crowds, fall trip!”

– for altitude sickness: prescription drug acetazolamide/diamox; don’t drink alcohol or caffeine; mate de coca (team made from coca plant)drink lots of water. (bottled, even when brushing your teeth and order drinks with NO ICE  – traveler’s diarrhea sounds like no fun. One folk remedy is chamomile (manaznilla) tea))

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Gathering string for our eventual trip to Peru – Lima, Cusco, Sacred Valley, Amazon!

Our son is studying in Peru this summer and fall so we’re gathering some string in plan for a trip to see him, perhaps in November. Below are suggestions from my  aunt in NYC who was there last December, my friend S. who went there on her honeymoon 12 years ago and some info from Fodor’s and other websites:

Lima – famous Peruvian restaurant ASTRID Y GASTON. This is the flagship restaurant of Peru’s most famous chefs – Gaston Acurio and Astrid Gutsche) Peruvian food is supposed to be among the world’s best. They offer a culinary tour of Peru that looks fantastic: http://taste-of-peru.com/culinary_programs/programs.php;

Frommer’s Review

Hidden discreetly behind a nonchalant facade (though one of an antique colonial house), on a busy side street leading to Parque Central, is this warm and chic modern colonial dining room and cozy bar. It continues to be my favorite restaurant in Peru. Gastón Acurio is the celebrity chef of the moment, with a burgeoning empire of fine-dining restaurants not only in Lima but also a handful of other cities on the continent (one opened in San Francisco in spring 2008) and a cooking show on TV. His signature restaurant in the capital is warm and elegant, with high white peaked ceilings and orange walls decorated with colorful modern art. In back is an open kitchen, where Gastón can be seen cooking with his staff, and a secluded wine-salon dining room. The place is sophisticated and hip but low-key, a description that could fit most of its clients, who all seem to be regulars. The menu might be called criollo-Mediterranean: Peruvian with a light touch. Try spicy roasted kid or the excellent fish called noble robado, served in miso sauce with crunchy oysters. The list of desserts — the work of Astrid, the other half of the husband-wife team — is nearly as long as the main course menu, and they are spectacular.

They are featured in the 2011 documentary about Peruvian food/chefs/farmers and the September gastronomic fair in Lima – Mistura: the power of food.

Mistura: The Power of Food Poster

– for Lima lodging: Second Home Peru in Barranco neighborhood looks like good place to stay, judging from Fodor’s. http://www.secondhomeperu.com/location-second-home-peru.html

Frommer’s Review

Lilian Delfín runs this extraordinary, and unique, small inn in the longtime, coast-hugging home of her father, the well-known Peruvian painter and sculptor Victor Delfín. The place is perfect for the relaxed and still slightly bohemian neighborhood of Barranco. This is no bland B&B; the idiosyncratic 1913 home is replete with artistic flavor — and multiple works by Delfín, who recently turned 80 and continues to paint every day (the artist’s studio and living quarters are apart from the main house, tumbling down the cliff). Though the house overlooks the ocean and the rooms are exceedingly spacious and elegant, the rambling two-story house — something like a Tudor-Craftsman — is probably not for everyone. But many, especially those interested in the arts or spending a few days in town, will find it a magical home away from home in Lima. To my mind, it’s one of the coolest and best-value places to stay in all of Peru. My large room had a beautiful wood floor and beams, a huge picture window framing the misty gray Pacific, deep claw-foot tub, and what felt like the most luxurious linens in Lima. If you ask politely, Lilian may take you to visit her father’s fascinating studio, where a giant puma-head fountain spouts water into the swimming pool (open to guests). But at a minimum, you’ll get to have breakfast at Delfín’s funky, Gaudí-style, neo-medieval kitchen.


Cusco – spend at least two days there, first night that arrive stay in Sacred Valley which is lower altitude (to avoid altitude sickness; My aunt stayed at  Sol and Luna Hotel and ate at Hacienda Huayoccari. Also visited the salt mines?

HACIENDA HUAYOCCARI
While a large part of this valuable cultural legacy is to be found at museums in the City of Cusco, the mansion today houses a vast collection of folk art, with pieces dating back to the seventeenth century. Colonial paintings, ceremonial goblets known as keros, pottery, porcelain, and Huamanga stone relics are just part of what you will discover during your visit. A blend of Spanish traditions with indigenous customs inherited since the dawn of time, this plantation manor is a perfect spot to sample life in the country, learn about typical locally harvested products and admire the colourful flora. This visit culminates with a superb meal prepared with fresh produce of the plantation. The current inhabitants of the house, the Lambarri-Orihuela family, will be your hosts

Hacienda Huayoccari ***

Urubamba Sacred Valley icon, Peru Luxury Tours, Peru luxury travel Homestay / Best available

There are two double bedrooms available in this lovely secluded Hacienda, built in the Fifties by one of the most prestigious families in Cuzco: landowners and art collectors. It is located 2km uphill from the main Cuzco Urubamba road, very near the village of Calca, approximately 1 hour drive from Cuzco.

Huayo Ccari is a private home. The price reflects the privilege of staying in a private home and not the hotel-type facilities of lodging in this category. It provides beautiful surroundings, amazing garden and views, antiques and folk art throughout and delicious food. Electricity goes out when the last person retires and there is no television or international direct dialing. Hot water and electricity 24 hours.

The house is lived-in by its owners and receives guests to private luncheons by appointment only. One of our favourite spots in Peru.

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They hired driver to get to ruins. Fantastic huge market in Cusco. Spend more time here than Macchu Picchu. They stayed at Hotel Monasterio in Cusco. (beautiful, pricey – gets high praise in fodor’s. Another option: La Casona. I like the idea of the Ninos Hotel – not only cheap but proceeds from our stay  at this “children’s hotel” provides medical and dental care, food, etc. for 250 disadvantaged chidlren who attend day care on the premises. Very popular. Need to reserve way ahead. http://www.ninoshotel.com

There’s also a Second Home Cusco: a a Bed and Breakfast located in the historic district of San Blas. Second Home Cusco offers 21St-century comfort in a Colonial house conveniently situated. Second Home Cusco features three junior suites, furnished in an eclectic style. Each Suite has a private bathroom, queen-sized –bed, cable TV, telephone and other amenities to ensure an enjoyable stay. A continental Breakfast is served each morning in the sunny patio.

We also have two sisters locations:
www.laposadadelabuelocusco.com
www.secondhomeperu.com
stay in Ollantaytambo/Cusco: www.elalbergue.com

Macchu Picchu – can do day trip, don’t need to stay overnight.It’s a lower altitude. My friend S. was in Aguas Calientes.

Amazon – Everyone seems to leave from  Iquitos, historic Amazon port city in northeastern corner of Peru.  from Lima spent three nights on a boat. limited hotels.(Fodor’s recomends three-day cruise to Pacaya Samiria Reserve.)

Here’s my friend S’s account: In the rainforest, took  a boat along the Amazon and then the River Napu to some jungle lodges.  We had our own guide there, hiking every day and enjoying really great meals. No hot water, outdoor showers, cots with mosquito netting, a great adventure . The highlight of the rainforest part of the trip was the ability to go up to the canopy on catwalks that ran from platform built around a tree to another. We were quite high, and the catwalks were quite scary  at first.  We launched our trip to the rainforest from Iquitos. At that time, you could only arrive by air or by boat (no roads into the place).

 

Lake Titicata – my cousins went there. lots of birds, big canyon. Aqua something. Fodor’s says the lake is the highest navigable lake in the world.

– My aunt  mentioned pills you can take three days in advance to ward off altitude sickness.

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