Tag Archives: Michigan

Good Harbor Gallery, Leland overrun, Northport still pretty, Port Oneida Fair – touring M-22, and Rabbinical ancestors in Traverse City

The weather turned oddly cold and moody, but thankfully no rain. Still, not a beach day so we drive along scenic M22, stopping at a small gallery with ceramics, Good Harbor Gallery, at a rural intersection north of Maple City where I found a wedding gift! we drive through traffic and tourist clogged Leland and it’s famous fishtown to the pretty village of Northport, where a farmers market along the lake was concluding.

Back south, we met up with the grandsons and parents for the annual port Oneida fair at six historic farms, offering lots of old timey kid friendly farm and craft activities, although the kids favorite was an earlier outing to feed alpacas in Frankfurt. In one farmhouse, the 70s cult novel Jonathan Livingston seagull was allegedly written. (I thought it was an east coast ocean seagull.)

Also happened to learn from an old friend about my family’s rabbinical and yenta roots in Traverse City!

Historic farm

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Elberta beach and Mount Baldy hike, Icehouse Ice cream, pretty town, watervale Inn (Arcadia) and Glen arbor friends!

We finally made an effort to find the Elberta Beach, which is a keeper…a perfect stretch of sand that you reach by walking along a path in the dune grass. nice view of the Frankfort light house and dock inn the distance.

Elberta Beach

In Arcadia, we hiked through the woods a half mile to yet another gorgeous dune bluff view. After visiting the local old-fashioned ice cream shoppe, we drove into the town which turned out to be lovely with a pristine 19th century Lutheran church and several lovely white wood frame 19th century houses with tidy gardens and, I was pleased to see, pro-choice signs. No Trump signs like elsewhere up here, especially around Maple city. We saw two Robert F. Kennedy Jr, signs on the bike trail leading into Frankfort. go figure. Near Arcadia, we checked out the Watervale Inn, an old fashioned resort with summer cottages and a little beach. Unfortunately no dogs allowed, last I checked.

Arcadia house

Dinner into evening was at the perfect beach house of my friend from age 13, PJWK, in Glen Arbor, with a gorgeous view of a Manitou island in the distance and another mainland point. The old tiny Glen Haven. The night sky was full of stars.

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Farmers Market (Honor), Betsie Valley Trail (Beulah), L’chaim (Frankfort), grocer’s daughter gelato and windy Esch beach (Empire) – Up North

Morning at the cottage

When the young baker at the farmer’s market in the tiny village of Honor told me she was returning to school soon, I almost asked which college. Turns out she’s a first grade teacher…who makes a mean cinnamon roll. She was one of the few food vendors at the Tuesday market. The rest were selling low key crafts. We did buy some red haven peaches and tomatoes from what appeared to be native Americans.

Henna vendor at Honor farmers market

We rode our bikes twice on the Betsie River trail along Crystal Lake, which was a different series of colors each day, ranging from coral blue to navy blue.

The trail is about 18 miles round trip and very pleasant, mostly flat with a variety of surfaces and terrains, starting with crunchy crushed gravel as we peddled past waterfront cottages with pretty gardens and the lake, then pavement through the woods, dotted with the occasional white birch (my favorite), then through a marsh wetlands/Betsey Lake past Elberta into the tourist town of Frankfort, with its restaurants, T-shirt shops, and occasional classy decor/gift shops. There is also a L’chaim sandwich shop in Frankfort, where we shared a hearty Ruben sandwich.

Frankfort

In Empire, we made an obligatory stop at the Grocers Daughter for gelato. Esch beach was calm and packed, with warm water and sunshine on our first outing, then windy and less packed, with frigid water and white caps after a stormy night.

Cottage view, Crystal Lake
The sleeping porch in the afternoon
Cottage at night

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Pyramid Point, cherry Republic (Glen Arbor), Benzie County Democrats (Beulah) and Port City Smokehouse (Frankfort) — old favs Up North

We’ve been here enough that we know the lay of the land, and have our old favorites. While the younger gens did the dune climb at Sleeping Bear Dunes National Park, we did a short, more sedate hike north of the village of Empire that landed us at Pyramid Point dune with yet another dazzling view of the lake and manitou island in the distance. We drove a little further on M-22 to near Maple City, which was a reminder of how pretty that area is and might be worth planting ourselves during future visits. Bucolic farmland, historic farmsteads and pretty old country homes.

Glen Arbor was packed with tourists, as was Cherry Republic but it’s got good food (cherry chicken) and good service so worth the one hour wait? The kids played cornhole and other games available on sight while the adults shopped for cherry everything and anything in the shop.

Pyramid Point

We are near the Benzie County Democrats so Noah and I dropped by to see where volunteers are most needed in this battleground state during the upcoming presidential race. The office had just closed but we met a funny and engaging democrat (the lone one on the county commission, she told us). Benzie has a surprisingly robust democratic presence she told us, and is purple. So help is needed. Grand Rapids also needs help from democrat volunteers. She wasn’t sure about the New Buffalo area, which is most convenient to Chicago.

On to Port City Smokehouse for some fresh whitefish and smoked whitefish spread. Nice helpful staff.

At Fred’s view

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The farmhouse (Douglas), empire bluffs trail, l’chaim Deli, Papano’s Pizza (Beulah), Esch Beach – Up North, Michigan

We are back in Beulah after a three year hiatus and fortunately our Airbnb (Fred’s view on Crystal drive) is better than the last one. It’s farther from downtown Beulah, high on a ridge overlooking Crystal Lake, but a much less creepy and decrepit cottage. We claimed the sleeping porch, which has a lovely view of the lake in the distance, although we hear the cars from nearby highway 31. So not as serene as the sleeping porch from our early Ithaca stays on Cayuga Lake. But atmospheric with scuffed white wood siding and planked ceiling, a mishmash of wicker furniture and lake kitsch.

Farmhouse

Lunch en route was in Douglas at the farmhouse bakery, which contrary to its website doesn’t let you order online or by phone. We waited a half hour for very good sandwiches (mufaletta, tuna,), excellent carrot cake and perfect sourdough bread. Good dog-friendly sitting at wood tables outside in the back.

Today we did the easy hike on Empire bluffs Trail for spectacular views of the lake and sleeping Bear dunes, then onto L’chaim deli In beaulah – excellent Rubens, roast beef with Stilton, loaded bagels.

In the later afternoon we went to our favorite dog-friendly, townie beach, Esch Beach, which has soft sandy bottom with a few patches of rocks. Dinner was takeout pizza from very nearby Papano’s. Not bad.

Empire Bluffs Trail

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Red Arrow Road House, primitive art, Pricey Swedish stuff, the Local, and peach pickin’/Baroda — back to SW Michigan,

Finally made it back to southwest Michigan’s lake shore as the summer fades. The sky has been overcast but a wretched Midwest heat wave is over, leaving behind pleasantly warm lake water and giant whitecaps which were fun to swim in!

Red arrow roadhouse

We had excellent whitefish at Red Arrow Roadhouse in Union Pier, a fun casual spot. Judith Racht gallery in Harbert, which specializes in “primitive/outsider” art, located in an old school house, was closed for the week. I browsed inside SO (Stockholm objects) which had beautiful and expensive Swedish (and other) clothing and home goods.

On Saturday we took the three dogs for a walk along the beach and, as it turns out, a swim. All three labs love the water and Weko beach has a designated area for dogs south of the main swim area toward Warren Dunes State Park. Lunch was at The local, one of those little trendy touches in a still mostly ordinary small town, except there was one other trendy touch, a pottery gallery with ceramics from all over the world that was crazy expensive.

One pot, I kid you not, from an Australian ceramicist (for this price I’m not calling her/him a potter) was $4,600. You read that right and I did too after double and triple checking. Was it glazed in gold?

We went peach picking at a place in baroda and all decided peach trees are so pretty. The peaches are not yet ripe so here’s hoping. we went on a 17 mile bike ride leaving from Three Oaks, east on Kruger road and at the small town of Galien, we rode south on Cleveland, crossing the scary major highway (12) and then heading back east along very pretty Buffalo road which during the last mile was as A sandy gravel road that led to a dirt road (Avery) back over highway 12. Not a perfect loop but as close as we could get. We picked up an excellent Margherita pizza at patellie’s in Three Oaks.

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The stray Dog – New Buffalo,Mi

Early January (at almost 2 pm) proved an easy time to get a table for lunch at The Stray Dog, which is usually packed during peak summer tourist season here in southwest Michigan. Cute place, decorated with dog pictures and dog commands (SIT, STAY), good service and well cooked burger.

Many restaurants are closed in early-to-mid January in these parts, including froelichs in Three Oaks. Viola’s was open but not at 2 pm. Fair enough.

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Granor Farm, Froelich’s, 3Arbor Arts, Alaplash, 3 Trilogy, $3.99 gas —-return to Three Oaks, MI

granor farm heirloom tomatoes

The young stylish couple dressed in expensively non-showy casual wear in front of me in line at A. V. Granor Farm, an organic farm market with specialty foods as well as organic fruit and veg, racked up a $313 tab before soaring off in their Tesla into the otherwise unassuming rural countryside. Is this The Hamptons? No, it’s southwest Michigan. Who knew? (Many, other than us.) Open during the week only on Friday, the farm also has farm-to-table summer dinners that sell out way in advance.

Three Oaks felt different on a Friday in August, compared to Wednesday. Lots of city folks. Bet they appreciated the $3.99 gas. It’s $5.48 in Chicago. And we thought $4.15 in Bridgman was bargain. We saw $3.97 in Indiana, just over the Michigan border.

On a Friday, more galleries, furniture and home good stores catering to tourists also were open. 3ArborArts has contemporary artwork, all by women currently; Alaplash has cool curated home goods and furniture; 3 trilogy has retro furniture and artwork; Froelich’s has two stores across from each other on the main drag,a sweet bakery and a cavernous restaurant and retail shop with good food (excellent muffuletta, salads) and rows of jars containing Froelich’s homemade dill pickles, jams, tomato sauce, chopped olives, with helpful recipes posted beside each.

Froelich’s

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Taps at sunset on Weko beach, rough hike in Grand Mere state Park, fish at flagship specialty foods – SW Michigan

Last night, we joined a small crowd on Weko Beach here in Bridgman to watch the sun set and as my sister promised, just as the red sun disappeared from view, a lone trumpeter played Taps…apparently this happens every summer night here and it was a lovely, evocative moment, reminding me of my lost youth summers spent at a girls camp in northern Michigan’s Elk Rapids.

Weko beach sunset

This morning, we braved another hike in the Warren Dunes, on a unmarked trail at Grand Mere State Park in Stevensville, a contrast with yesterday’s well-marked trail further south. It was very buggy in the woods after a night of rain but we managed to do a 1.5 mile (or so) loop and not get lost.

Fortunately we had dowsed ourselves with bug spray pre-hike but we should have brought it in our pack. The hike began as a flat, wide, wooded nature trail hugging the edge of a swampy area with lots of cattails, sprinkled with bright red wildflowers, then went up across the dunes to the lake shore and along the beach, which was blissfully unpopulated except for a few hardy souls swimming and sunbathing. They appeared to be townies who have kept this secret beach to themselves. So be it.

Grand mere state park

Lunch was fish and chips, perfectly crispy local white fish, from flagship specialty food on Red Arrow Highway in Lakeside. We ate at a picnic table outside the small store set back from the highway. The fish was delish, albeit expensive.

Weko beach

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Root Cafe, Salt of the Earth — Return to Fennville, MI

Fennville was only about 20 miles out of our way on the drive back to Chicago from Empire and proved to offer a welcome alternative to the Farmhouse Cafe in Douglas that had a 45-60 minute wait for sandwiches on our trip up north. Instead, we waltzed in and out of the Root Cafe in downtown Fennville in a matter of minutes with great food and service to dine on a dog-friendly patio. Perfect! It has a broad menu – we tried the Cuban sandwich, the turkey sandwich and the mixed salad greens with pulled chicken and bacon. It also has excellent homemade lemonade (pulp and all)! We stopped in Fennville maybe 10 years ago en route to up north and ate at the Blue Goose Cafe, which was fine. Roots Cafe is an even better option.

Tile from Kuilema Pottery
Dining al fresco at Root Cafe

The cafe also shared space with a gallery with lots of local or near-local ceramics, (kuilema pottery in Grand Rapids) so I did a wee bit of shopping too. It also sells rustic bread from the well-regarded restaurant /bakery(dinner only) a few doors down called Salt of the Earth, which serves new American cuisines made with seasonal fare from local farmers and producers.

We noticed there is also a cute little Children’s on the small main drag, that looked like a good stop for our grandchildren, next trip!

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