Tag Archives: Massachusetts

Peabody museum/Salem, Boston public library/Tatte/warren Tavern/old classmates in Charlestown, my old group house in Somerville

Bunker hill monument

We enjoyed a visit to the superb Peabody Museum in Salem with brother-in-law Steve. A very interesting collection of Native American art, old and contemporary, and early American art; also a step into a 1700s Chinese House that came from near Shanghai and was reconstructed inside the museum. Way cool and reminded us of a old traditional building with a dark wood interior surrounding a central courtyard that we stayed at in Hoi An, Vietnam.

Peabody

During an unexpected return to Somerville (long story), we drove past the group house I lived in several lives ago (1983) at 34 Avon street (I remembered the address) which looked spruced up since my day.

My former residence

On to Charlestown which also has spruced up since my day, complete with an outpost of the excellent Tatte bakery on Warren Street where we had excellent hot chocolate and a morning bun. We were in the shadow of the towering Bunker Hill Monument with streets lined with attractive colonial-era- looking homes and alluring shops on Main Street that I wish I had time to explore.

High school friends represent!

But we were there, instead, for an event for my book Our Diaries, Ourselves at the Charlestown branch of the Boston Public Library! High school friends kindly showed up.

Warren Tavern

We all went to dinner at the very atmospheric Warren Tavern, circa the 1780s, where revolutionary leaders George Washington and Paul Revere dined. (Good burger and Cobb salad, centuries later!)

Charlestown

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Shubie’s/the Barnacle/ Abbott Hall in Marblehead, Porter Square Books and Gustavo cuban kitchen/Cambridge, Mass., Bernadette in Salem

Marblehead

We have eaten well, as always in the Boston area, thanks to Dirck’s sister who used to be a newspaper food critic here. First stop, Shubie’s, a cheerful gourmet market and cafe with killer sandwiches, salads, and deli counter with enticing prepared foods.

The Barnacle

We also enjoyed the fish chowder, steamed clams, and water view at The Barnacle. We walked along the quiet Marblehead streets lined with flat-front wood frame homes from the 1700s and 1800s with historic plaques and along the waterfront by an old fort. (Fort Sewall, 1742.)

Abbott Hall is a cool old pile of bricks with some old paintings including the spirit of America. We learned that Marblehead is the home of the American Navy and the Girl Scouts Brownie. (Guess which one I was in.)

Dinner after my Our Diaries, Ourselves book reading at Porter square books in Cambridge was at nearby Gustavo’s, where we had meat dishes packed with flavor (pork asadas, ribs, chicharones)

Abbott Hall

The weather was glorious, with temperatures rising to the 70s, perfect for a waterfront walk in Swampscott, with glistening water and the Boston skyline rising in the distance. In Salem, we had a good meal at Bernadette.

Stunning ocean view from swampscott on high

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In and around Martha’s Vineyard with a local!

Oak Bluffs

I’ve long said I’d go anyplace if a local wanted to show me around but even better if the place is beautiful. So we felt very lucky to spend a day touring this beautiful island with a local and even better a local-by- choice who years ago picked the island village of Vineyard Haven as the place where she wanted to live when school is out (she was a teacher) and retire.

Oak Bluffs

The weather was grey and foggy so we couldn’t see the water until the fog lifted after a few hours. But the fog added to the other worldliness as we drove along winding roads in the woods and beside sand dunes where the beach and ocean was obscured by the gloom.

Famous names

L. drove us down island (east) and up island (west), around west Chop and East Chop, to places with Native American or English names, through the classy village of Edgartown with its stately white and grey shingled homes, and funkier Oak Bluffs, with its rows of little Victorian painted lady cottages surrounding the gathering pavilion of the “Martha’s vineyard camp meeting association” a religious community since 1835.

Edgartown

She drove us to her favorite seaside fish shack ( in menemsha) and pointed out her favorite shingled mansions on sprawling grounds and the headstones of famous writers and journalists (William Styron, Art Buchwald, Mike Wallace) in a graveyard with old peculiar monuments.

Island map

It was fun to be here so off season, among 20,000 year round residents on an island that swells to 100,000 in the summer. Yes, fog and gloom, shuttered shops and estates with shrouded shrubbery, but empty roads and locals at one of the few restaurants open. We ate pizza and Cobb salad at Rockfish in Edgartown.

The weather suddenly cleared our second day here, with bright sun, blue sky, shimmering water, 60 degrees. we joined L for her morning constitutional in Oak Bluffs with its pretty town green and boardwalk along the water.

Ferry ride

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Row 34/fort point, Finn/Salem, toscana/Cambridge – Boston dining

First two days here are for work so had some lunch meeting dining. Good crab cakes at Row 34 (and ridiculously expensive parking – $42 for day) in Fort Point area, seaside in Boston with lots of glittering high glass and steel buildings (Including the contemporary art museum.) Flour bakery is a great lunch and coffee spot near my publisher’s office on Farnsworth.

Harvard square installation 🥲

Finn for seafood in Salem. Lunch today at Toscano in Cambridge – good pasta and thin crust pizza near Radcliffe’s Schlesinger library where I had a great morning looking at old diaries including one written on toilet paper. Single ply! Also went to an excellent craft gallery: Cambridge Artists Cooperative. And saw a sobering tribute to the people kidnapped in Israel.

Yes, a diary written on toilet paper!

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Ocean House in Gloucester; Rockport Fish shack and point; Harbor Light Inn, 5 corners Kitchen, Historic district along Washington Street in Marblehead — , north shore of Boston

There is nothing like old friends and it was a particularly wonderful treat to see old friends Art and Nell after some very trying times. On a warm fall day we wandered around several lovely towns along the coast north of Boston on Cape Ann (Gloucester/Rockport), soaking in the scenery and catching up after over two years apart.

Rockport

We started at a little coffee shop in Gloucester, which seemed a tad less touristy than Rockport, but both are on breathtaking spots on the ocean. We splurged on a lobster roll (hot, buttered) at the Fish shack in Rockport, which has big picture windows overlooking the water and walked on the big rocks that form a walkway into the water. Lots of art galleries, old Yankee monuments and wood frame shingled homes.

In Marblehead, my favorite, we walked down narrow streets lined with multi colored (powder blue, navy blue, mustard yellow, rust red, Forest green) wood shuttered and shingled homes from the 1600s to the 1800s with historic plaques telling us who lived here and there (yeoman et. Al.). Our friends found a charming inn in historic Marblehead (Harbor Light) with an outdoor veranda overlooking the small garden and pool. (They also found a good is place in Gloucester: Ocean House Hotel at Bass Rocks.

Rockport
Rockport

Harbor Light was a Great place for an evening drink, admiring the sky and stars. The occasional flight heading to or from Logan, I gather. We had a good dinner at the popular Five Corners Kitchen in Marblehead.

Harbor inn snug bar

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Mass MOCA – for huge art!

Last week, we thoroughly enjoyed a visit to the Massachusetts Museum of Contemporary Art (aka Mass MOCA) in the old factory town of North Adams, near Williamstown. It was raining, which made it easier to spend a September day inside – and we were impressed not only by the exhibits but the building itself – a huge sprawling weathered old factory. The show on oppressed workers (see description below) was engrossing – as was the semi-permanent (“on view through 2033” according to the website) retrospective of bold colorful Sol LeWitt wall paintings (especially engrossing was a video of young people creating  these paintings, following LeWitt’s instructions.)

I thought the Tate Modern in London was huge – but Mass MOCA is even huger and the enormity of some of the art installations (by Nari WArd and Katarina Grosse) is astonishing. The museum also has a good cafe (Lickety Split) with large well-done salads and sandwiches. And if it had not been raining, would have been fun to poke around town a bit, especially some of the galleries that have sprung up in the wake of Mass MOCA.

THE WORKERS exhibit: “What does work look like today in a global economy marked by outsourcing, rapid migration, disruptive economies, and a state of labor that seems fractured, precarious, and almost invisible? With video, sculpture, photography, and performance art from 25 artists, this exhibition examines the way labor is represented today (and how some contemporary workers choose to represent themselves). “

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Williamstown Mass – where to stay, eat, what to do

It rained most of our day in the Berkshires but we still enjoyed the scenery. First stop Great Barrington where what Rubiner could resist a visit to Rubiner’s Cheesemongers – an artisanal cheese shop in an old bank on the main drag owned by a cousin of mine.  The cousin wasn’t around – and there wasn’t any cornbeef for the “Rubiner Sandwich” (no joke) served in the Rubi cafe behind the cheese shop but we enjoyed our visit – eating two sandwiches in what appeared to be the former bank’s boardroom, now the cafe. Also dropped in at a clothing store I liked last time I visited several years ago – and bought a few things on sale.

In Williamstown, we stayed at the River Bend Farm B&B, a very unique place located right beyond the Williams College campus. Run by two free spirits, it’s a meticulously restored 18th century house – plus modern day amenities like plumbing and heat. There are only four rooms, only two occupied and we had the place largely to ourselves – staying on the ground floor in what was the parlor, a lovely room with plastered ceilings, old moldings, wrought iron chandelier, fireplace. Next door was the kitchen – which looked like something out a living history farm with a big stone hearth with iron implements and dried herbs hanging on the wall. The bathroom was unique too – dark wood with big old pots on shelves (and a well-functioning shower.) Breakfast was good – homemade granola, muffins, jams. Definitely would return!

We splurged at Mezze for dinner, a white- tablecloth restuarant whose chef is known for his locally-sourced ingredients. We had a very good pork dish and pasta with a pork, beef, sausage ragu.Another keeper.

En route to the Berkshires on Highway 7 in Connecticut we stopped briefly in the pretty village of West Cornwall – where we crossed a covered bridge above a raging river (truly – the rivers were all raging thanks to Irene and causing havoc in many places.)

 

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Finally picked a place to stay in the Berkshires

After much research, I’ve finally settled on staying at River Bend Farm B&B when we are in Williamstown, Mass. next month. I was taken by its historic charm, location, and price. It’s a 1770 Colonial home – “magnificently restored” according to one review with only four rooms – and two baths to share. It’s a mile from town and costs $134 a weeknight (including tax….which is good for the pricey Berkshires.)

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