We’ve covered so much ground today that I have the energy only for highlights which include:
– Waipio’o Valley – Gorgeous view from the overlook and after yesterday’s harrowing hike, we wimped out today on walking down the notoriously steep trail here to the bottom (we’re told the walk back up is horrendous although you can often hitchhike with a kindly surfer driving back up.)
– Laupahoehoe Point – A big thank you to “the Larrys” for suggesting we stop here. The Larrys are two art professors named Larry who we met at our b&b in Captain Cook. The site of a deadly 1946 tsunami, this unusually opening of land right by the ocean is dominated by crashing waves that ram into high jagged black rocks along the windy palm-lined coast. Tres dramatique.
– Akaka Falls – high high falls. worth a quick stop.
– Pepe’ekeo Scenic Drive – a narrow winding old backroad parallel to the main highway that winds through a jungle of vegetation culminating in the Hawaii Tropical Botanical Gardens, well worth a visit. We also had a very pleasant lunch at What’s Shakin’ – a sweet little white shack at the north end of the scenic drive known for it’s smoothies.
– Hilo – a bit of a disappointment at first glance
– Allen’s Table – a fantastic new restaurant opened by a young chef (named Allen) who does very creative things with local produce, meat, grains. Better than Merriman’s, dare I say, which we also enjoyed. But this place has more of a cutting edge, youthful vibe – more laidback atmosphere and more inventive food. The shrimp and dumplings appetizer was like nothing I’ve tasted before: creamy gnocci and bits of shrimp and slices of mushrooms in a light creamy seafoody broth. We ordered two biscuits which came individually wrapped in brown wax paper like a gift. And they were a gift: we unwrapped to find a warm flakey biscuit sliced in half, buttered and seasoned with who knows what herbs but delicious. I had korean shortribs that were fantastic. D had flat iron steak – thinly slicked almost rare slices of steak that cook more after you pour a tomato sauce atop them. Never seen that before but apparently it’s a technique the chef learned in Japan (or so he explained to us.) That dish came with some deliciously seasoned fried rice (the chef volunteered his recipe for that one – the trick is the fish sauce) topped with steamed broccoli with some sort of vaguely hot spice. We also had a terrific young waitress recently arrived from British Columbia.
TakeBetsywithyou 