Tag Archives: Des Moines

Getting excited for RAGBRAI ride

 

It’s hard not to feel the excitement about RAGBRAI this year, which begins today in western Iowa – – especially since the whole city of Des Moines, where I live, is gearing up for the arrival of thousands of riders here on Tuesday (the route, which changes every year, goes through DSM for the first time in ages this year!). There are all sorts of parties, concerts, food vendors, residents readying for the big event!

And our friends in Windsor Heights (a DSM suburb) are among many who are opening their homes to host a few riders – and those riders  will definitely luck out. They’ll get a fantastic outdoor pool, beautifully landscaped yard, drinks, meals and meet two of the nicest Iowans ever (and that’s saying a lot)! Just heard from a friend in Ames who needs a place to stay – and even more important “a real shower” during the Des Moines overnight so looks like we’ll be squeezing some more people into our house. (We’re already hosting an Israeli exchange student as of today for several weeks).  The more the merrier.

I just pulled out the stuff from my official RAGBRAI packet (this is the first year I’ve gone legit and paid to ride for two days, rather than just hoping on the ride for a day as I did two years ago) and I’ve got various wristbands and bike tags. Cannot wait!!

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Filed under Adventure travel, bike trails, biking, Des Moines, Iowa

Iowa girl done good in London! Pickle & Rye American sandwich shop

Met a talented young American couple at their cheerful sandwich shop in the London neighborhood of Mortlake yesterday. Val Miller grew up in Grinnell, Iowa, went to school at Central College in Pella, Iowa, fell in love with London during a semester abroad here (I did the same decades before.) While traveling around Europe, she met Alex Minor who grew up in Delaware, went to culinary school in San Francisco, worked in a restaurant in Italy. Three years ago, They opened their smart upscale shop called Pickle & Rye, serving large, well built, yummy sandwiches and are doing so well they are opening a second larger one nearby. The shop is decorated with U.S. tchotkes including mugs from Iowa and Des Moines on the tables. What a kick for Iowans in particular, and for my English friends who have visited us several times in Iowa. Did I mention the sandwiches are delicious? It is easy to see why they are doing well, given the quality of the food and their friendly Yank personalities. They are getting married soon in Grinnell and are determined to ride Ragbrai next summer, which I have been trying to convince my English friends to do for years. Word has it Richmond is home to the most Americans in London, but the customers I saw there were Brits.

On a crisp sunny day, we walked along narrow lanes lined with hearty flowers spilling over old brick walls to Barnes, which feels very much like a country village at times. we bought spelt flour, duck eggs, homemade hummus, crumpets and Florentines at the small outdoor Saturday market, then walked back up along the Thames to Mortlake Common where the local school was putting on a little fair. Then I feel asleep on a chair in my friends’ peaceful garden.

Later we went to an excellent Nepalese restaurant with an amusing name, The Greedy Buddha, in my old stomping ground of Fulham with my former neighbors from 34 years ago on Sullivan Road in Parsons Green, providing a little reminder of who I once was.

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Filed under DINING, London, Uncategorized

The power of a popup storm: ending up in Flint not Kiev

So how did my husband end up in Flint Michigan yesterday when he was supposed to end up in the Ukrainian city of Kiev? Chalk it up to the challenges of flying from smaller cities, unpredictable summer weather and airline belt tightening, perhaps. The weather was hazy in Des Moines in the early afternoon when he left with a farm group for Kiev via Detroit and Amsterdam. It was already going to be a long day. Which turned into long days when a storm in Detroit required the plane to be diverted to Flint, 17 minutes fly time from Detroit. passengers were told the plane didn’t have enough fuel to keep circling and wait out the storm. It was sunny in Flint and my relatives in suburban Detroit reported there was no storm there.

D. finally did make it to Detroit in the early evening, just missing the Amsterdam flight which had also been delayed by weather. So his group of 20 had to rebook, which is never easy but particularly now with planes packed to the gills. They stayed over night in a hotel by the airport and set off early this morning for Kiev, now via Boston and Paris. At one point, it was going to be via Newark and Amsterdam. Here’s hoping. Even for much less ambitious journeys, we have gotten used to not flying as expected. Last week my daughter got home a day late from California after her flight from Santa Barbara to Denver was delayed for hours on a sunny day. mechanical problems. The same thing happened to me last fall on a bright sunny day in Kansas City, when my flight to New Orleans was delayed for hours and ultimately cancelled. Mechanical. It’s gotten so i am almost surprised when i get somewhere as scheduled. and still we travel. tomorrow I fly from Chicago to London. Relatively easy. Or so it seems now.

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Filed under Adventure travel, Agritourism

Beautiful Adair County (Iowa) in Greenfield and beyond

The Iowa Aviation Museum celebrates Iowa’s

Never realized how gorgeous Adair County, about 55 miles west of Des Moines is, especially on a perfect spring day. Classic Iowa farm country, driving along a rollercoaster two-lane highway past lush green pastures with grazing cows and shadows from the clouds moving across the land; a hawk soaring high above a tidy farmstead; the kind of drive where you seriously contemplate what would be better to have – a red or a white barn? (I’m still torn.)

En route to Greenfield just off Interstate 80, I not only stopped at the famous Freedom Rock but there was the artist painting his annual ode to veterans – just in time for Memorial Day. This year the huge boulder is home to a graveyard with fallen soldiers, white stones on a green lawn, a soldier kneeling beside one stone, a woman laying down in front of the stone. Interesting to read the names of all the people driving by from all over the country who have signed the guestbook in a little overhang nearby.

From there onto the incredibly lovely recently restored Hotel Greenfield – gorgeous early 1900’s structure with lots of original fixtures and moldings, vintage photos, nice combination of antique furnishings and contemporary art. Well done. Equally well done is the newly restored opera house, now known as the Warren Cultural Center, a red brick corner building with a turret at the edge of the tidy public square surrounding a red brick Romanesque courthouse. All very pristine. Enjoyed the crafts by Iowa artisans inside Ed and Eva’s, a shop on the ground floor of the cultural center and a nice woman took me on a tour upstairs of the pretty little opera house, which begins with a contemporary blond wood and glass stair case leading to a surprisingly light and airy concert hall with light pink walls with the original stencils restored. Must return for a concert sometime – word has it the acoustics are amazing. So nice to see these buildings restored to their former glory.

Also stopped at the Iowa Aviation Museum – a little hanger off a dirt road by Greenfield’s tiny airport that has a mighty impressive collection of vintage aircraft collected and then donated by a local couple. Old gliders and two seaters (one with wicker seats) and word has it, you can go flying in one of the two seaters once the one little pup plane to do this is back in action. A very nice woman kindly took me around the hanger, inviting me to sit in the planes (I was afraid I wouldn’t get out once in – kinda cramped quarters) and proudly showed off all kinds of aviation legends with Iowa roots (who knew) from the Wright Brothers, whose father had land in the Adair County area, to a woman who taught Amelia Earhart how to fly (Amelia spent time in Des Moines.) Well worth a visit!

I had a light sophisticated  lunch at the beautiful Henry A. Wallace Country Life Center – the farm house/home of the former Vice President under FDR. I’d eaten Friday dinner at the Gathering Table, the center’s restaurant (see photo of barn below), but not lunch – it was equally good. Salad of greens, a vegetable tart made with fresh asparagus from the center’s garden (as well as mushrooms, carrots, all top a thin crisp but buttery wedge of baked pastry dough). And the perfect dessert: homemade ginger yoghurt with chocolate curry truffles. Yum.wallace.jpg

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Filed under Agritourism, Iowa

Sweat the details when contemplating flying RyanAir and EasyJet from London

Ryanair logo.svg
IATA
FR
ICAO
RYR
Callsign
RYANAIR
Founded 1985

So my trip to Poland (Gdansk, Krakow) and Prague this summer keeps growing – first I added Berlin. And then when I saw that I’d be flying home via London, I had to figure out a way to stop there too and see all my pals and the city where I used to live and will always love.

Then came a mad search to find those great cheap flights I’ve been hearing about from London to the continent – and I found several very reasonable flights from London to Berlin but the fares kept going up as I ruled out several airports to fly out of in London (no to Southend, which I’d never heard of – it’s in Essex – and which one English friend said would take as long to get to from central London as it takes to get from Des Moines to Heathrow; and no to Luton, which I did fly to Israel out of back in, um, 1982 and is also a schlep; yes to Gatwick and Stansted, which are reasonably easy to get to via public transport from central London) and as I ruled out very early flights (which would rule out getting to the airport via public transport.)

It looks like I’ll end up with a flight for about $98 – which isn’t the $40 I first thought it could be (although that hardly seemed possible) – but it’s not bad. That’s about what it costs these days to fly from Des Moines to Chicago one-way (thanks to Southwest Airway’s arrival in Des Moines.) I was tempted to take the train from London to Berlin but it stops in Paris where you have to switch trains and I don’t think I could bear to just pass through Paris.  So plane it is!

EasyJetlogo.SVG
IATA
U2
ICAO
EZY
Callsign
EASY
Founded 1995

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Filed under airfare, London

Haiku for Sushi/Asian food in Des Moines!

ImageIf I was really clever, I’d write this post as a haiku – but bit much to ask on a Sunday  morning. I don’t know why it never occurred to us to try Haiku – a sushi/Asian restaurant in a strip mall near us at the western edge of Drake University. (Maybe because it’s in a strip mall near us at the western edge of Drake University). And when our friend Art suggested it – he’d had a good lunch there, I believe – I remained skeptical. But it was really good. We had several very inventive dishes – a sushi appetizer (my favorite was Leo’s Treat  Tempura- crabmeat, shrimp, avocado, asparagus & cheese),  a very interesting Haiku Salad with spring greens, seaweed, chopped squid, crabmeat, crispy Tempura bits in a sweet-tangy dressing.  Our  entrees were refreshingly lightly seasoned and sauced stir fries. The heavy use of panels of blue light in a darkened dining room with black furniture was a bit jarring at first but our table – at least – ultimately decided it created a soothing atmosphere. We arrived at 6 p.m. on a Saturday and the place was almost empty but was full when we left 1 1/2 hours later (to catch a movie.)

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West Des Moines: Olympic gymnastics hotspot thanks to Chow, Gabby, Shawn

We met Liang Chow and his wife about 10 – 15 years ago when our daughter took lessons at his then-fledgling gymnastics studio in West Des Moines.  Who knew that he would become a darling of the 2008 and now 2012 olympics but it couldn’t happen to a nicer guy. Who knows what really goes on between a coach and star pupil but I do know that I’d trust my kid’s fragile body and emotions with him if I had a budding gymnast on my hands. He always seemed a bit unknowable behind his omnipresent smile (a stereotype I know) but he also seemed very calm and kind and dedicated. Just what you want in a coach, I’d think. So happy for him – and his star pupils Gabby Douglas and, in 2008, Shawn Johnson (who I no doubt watched as a kid when I sat through my daughter’s gymnastics classes. She’s a year older than our daughter.) Happy too for my adopted city and state  to catch a little unlikely fame. Wonder who our next Iowa-trained gymnastics superstar will be? (A few contenders can be found on http://www.chowsgym.com.)

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getting to manhattan from Newark airport

There are he low-cost, low-stress, low-impact way to Newark Liberty.

There are now direct flights from Des Moines to Newark Airport and it doesn’t look too taxing (or expensive – if you skip the cab) to get to Manhattan from Newark. Haven’t been to that airport since the 1980s when I used to fly – okay this will date me – People’s Express.

Here’s the scoop on the AirTrain:

Operating 24 hours a day, 365 days a year, AirTrain provides easy connections to NJ Transit and the rail lines that run on the Northeast Corridor and North Jersey Coast Line. AirTrain also offers a simple way for passengers to get to and from Manhattan and points north, or Philadelphia and points south. It also connects passengers to airline terminals, rental car facilities, hotel shuttles and central parking lots. Best of all, you never have to worry about traffic conditions.

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Daring to ride a bicycle on Iowa’s county roads – Chichaqua Trail east of Des Moines

You can get very spoiled riding bikes on Iowa’s trails – no cars to worry about except at infrequent intersections with usually pokey gravel roads. But yesterday – in part because one of our favorite trails, the (unpronounceable) 20-mile Chichaqua Valley Trail from Bondurant to Baxter, east of Des Moines,  is partially closed – we decided to try riding on a few county roads paralleling the trail.

It helped that the roads we were (S52 and F24)  were chosen by the Iowa Bike Coalition as good – and included as part of a recommended loop on their new biking map that I recently picked up for $2.50 at a bike shop in Des Moines.  On a gorgeous fall Sunday, the two-lane roads were mostly quiet – but every once in awhile a car or truck would come up from behind and scare the be-Jesus out of us. My husband was particularly worried about combines and grain trucks – since it’s harvest time.

The roads were very hilly – so a challenge to ride from that standpoint too – with visibility limited. When I could banish my fear of approaching cars, riding the country roads was fun – you get a really different feel for the countryside than on the trails where you are more insulated and your view more restricted. You’re riding in the middle of the corn field rather than on the edge of it, if that makes sense.

Anyway, by the time we got to the small town of Mingo on county roads we were very ready to return to the safety of a trail – and we gladly hopped on the Chichaqua Trail, riding  south to Valeria, where the trail was closed thru to Bondurant, due to damage caused by flooding last year.  We had the trail from Valeria to Baxter (via Mingo and Ira) almost to ourselves – about a 10 mile stretch – because, I’m guessing, 1)  people think the trail is completely closed and 2) the High Trestle Trail has become so popular that it’s siphoning off riders on the the Chichaqua Trail.

The weather was a balmy 75 degrees or so and the trees and light were in their autumnal glory – we rode through tunnels of trees changing color, our tires crunching on fallen leaves, the sun making shadows that dappled the path, gliding past fields of browning corn and golding soybeans, past the occasional combine harvesting away or tractor in the distance making hay bales. Iowa in its glory.

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Great Western Trail from Park Ave./Des Moines to Cumming – quiet friday

As expected, we had the trail almost to ourselves on Friday because 1) it’s a week day 2) so many cyclists were away on RAGBRAI. We had an easy 20 mile ride from Park Avenue in Des Moines to Cumming although we almost had a collision with a fast-moving golf cart when we rode through the golf course. In Cumming, we found a good picnic spot in the local park on a picnic table under an overhang. And got my friend N’s soft tire filled with air at a very cool shop that redoes vintage English sports cars (on tap – a very sweet pale green Jaguar convertible and a jaunty white and red paneled Aston Healy convertible.). Was sorry to hear that the guy who fixes and shows off vintage juke boxes in town – I did a story about him years ago – has retired.

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Filed under bike trails, biking, Iowa