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Conflicted Thoughts about Wal-Mart’s largesse in Bentonville

We drove some backroads home from Eureka Spring, Arkansas yesterday – starting about 10 miles east in the town of Berryville, which turned out to be more down-on-its-luck than my guidebook suggested. Couldn’t help notice the huge and bustling Wal-Mart on the edge of town – a distinct contrast to the struggling town square business district. And couldn’t help but remember that Bentonville, which we visited Saturday, is the unusual small town that has clearly benefited economically from Wal-Mart – and that’s because it’s not a typical small town but a company town, Wal-Mart’s company town no less.  I can’t fault Wal-Mart  for wanting to make its company town look like the perfect American small town, squeaky clean with landscaped gardens and well-kept businesses,  but it’s a tad ironic considering the company’s reported disastrous effect on so many other small rural communities, where it has been accused of helping to shutter local businesses and suck the life out of  many a downtown.  (For details on the “Wal-Mart Effect” see: advocate.nyc.gov/news/2011-01-11/new-study-wal-mart-means-fewer-jobs-less-small-businesses-more-burden-taxpayers)

I don’t recall seeing this issue addressed at the Wal-Mart Visitor Center in Bentonville – although the center’s displays were more interesting than I expected.  (I was impressed and moved by the display recalling Wal-Mart’s aid to the Gulf Coast post-Hurricane Katrina.) One more question came to mind in downtown Bentonville – why so many law offices?  Granted the town square is dominated by the county  courthouse but still…Are they all fighting the good fight for Wal-Mart?

As for the Crystal Bridges Museum, while there,  I couldn’t help but feel grateful to the Wal-Mart heiress who opened it for sharing her stunning American art collection and vision, free of charge, with us little people. But again,  later, I did start to think a bit about the irony of this high-brow, high-culture palace being funded by the profits of a company whose stores are anything but high-brow, high culture;  a company that has not always treated or paid its employees well, and whose overall contribution to our economy, culture, and society is debatable. High-culture largesse is nothing new for corporate titans but sometimes its hard to decide whether what they give outweighs what they take, or have taken.

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Another sight to see when in Bentonville Arkansas

So this isn’t technically open for tourists in Bentonville, but the house owned by the director of Crystal Bridges – the new museum of American art founded by a Walton heiress – sounds definitely worth a drive-by, if I can find it when we visit Bentonville in late May.  There’s a story about the house in the April 1st  NYTimes’ Sunday T Magazine and it looks fantastic – a glass and limestone-brick home designed in 1954 by Cecil Stanfield, the same “Modernist” architect, the Times reports,  who gave a “Jetsons”-esque touch to Oral Roberts University in Tulsa (which I’ve visited twice – when Oral was holed up in his “prayer tower” during the late 1980s. Wonder if the architect designed the tower – or the strange sculpture of giant clasped hands nearby on the campus).

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Where to eat/stay when visiting Crystal Bridges Museum in Bentonville, Arkansas

We will no doubt make it to Crystal Bridges Museum of American Art, which is making an unlikely art destination out of  Bentonville, Arkansas (thanks to Wal-Mart heiress Alice Walton who bankrolled the museum in the Wal-Mart headquarters hometown).

I’ve explored northwest Arkansas several times (especially Eureka Springs), but never had a reason to stop in the small city of Bentonville.  Now I do, thanks to this new museum , which opened Nov. 11. and promises to put Bentonville on the map not only for American art enthusiasts but tourists in general.  A  huge complex designed by Moshe Safdie, the museum showcases Walton’s reportedly impressive art collection and also has a sculpture garden and nature trails that wind through 120 acres of forests, gardens and ponds.

Now courtesy of the NYTimes comes some suggestions on tourist amenities present and future there:

  • – Table Mesa Bistro, around since 2008.
  • – Pressroom, new restaurant located in a former – yes you guessed it – newspaper pressroom. (Sadly, given the deteriorating health of newspapers, more and more newsrooms may face this kind of repurposing…)
  • – Laughlin House B&B – recently opened, first B&B in town.
  • – 21c Museum Hotel – opening on the town square in Jan. 2013 and an outpost of the original hotel in Louisville.

Also on my list:  the famous AQ (“Arkansas Quality”) Chicken House in nearby Springdale, Arkansas.

 


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