Tag Archives: Arizona

A pack (?) of javelinas greeted us as we walked to Ventana Canyon Trailhead yesterday. Fortunately they were behind a fence in the woods and when they saw us they ran away. Not attractive animals. Like black-grey hairy pigs.

We did a longer hike this time, making it almost all the way to the top of the canyon, for spectacular views from on-high of Tucson below. We made it to just-before the second to top X (“top of ridge overlook”) The last bit was difficult, switchbacks on steep ridges with rocks and boulders to navigate. (“Sweaty steep climbing and rock stepping” according to the map) Glad I had my trusty rented hiking pole and dirck’s outstretched hand!

Another fancy dinner, this one at Maynard’s kitchen in the train depot downtown. Fun to watch the trains rumbling slowly past as we ate steak, duck, Brussel sprouts, and local greens with lardons. All excellent. The next-door bar looked good too with charcuterie boards in a train depot decor. We wandered across the street to the Hotel congress and wandered around. Not much happening on a Sunday night, even on st Patrick’s day weekend. The outdoor plaza looks like a fun space for music.

Today we returned to sabino canyon, this time wisely booking our shuttle ticket the night before. It was busy, even on a Monday. Lots of families on spring break.

We took the shuttle tour to the end of the line, stop 9, and then hiked 2.5 miles on sabino canyon trail, a spectacular trail along a ridge high in the canyon. We could hear rushing water way below and finally saw it on occasion way off in the distance. Good Beyond bread sandwich to split on trail (they’re huge): turkey, cheddar, bacon.

We soon figured out why there was a 50 minute for dinner at La Frida (as in Kahlo) on Monday night. The food is very inventive, unlike any Mexican fare we’ve had before. First we tried costilla de elote, which was like eating corn spareribs, gnawing the corn off long fried strips of mexican street corn on the cob, marinated in Serrano sauce (Serrano peppers, cilantro, lime, crumbly white cotija cheese?). New to us although I’ve had whole corn cob elote.

Sauces are the big thing at the restaurant and the server brought us four to try, then we ordered the entree with our favorite sauce: fritaditas — pulled pork gorditos with guacamole. The bed of black bean sauce was the best part. The pork carnitas atop one of the three gorditos was almost all fat (ew) but the other two were delicious. The gordito itself (a toasted Mexican flour cake) is not my favorite, sort of a fat, doughy version of a pastry shell/English muffin.

The menu was quite fussy at The Coronet, located in a charming 1860s adobe building in the Barrio, in downtown Tucson. But the food turned out to be fantastic – from the “shrub” (fruit-infused non-alcoholic drink) to the small plates (mushrooms in a white mole sauce; pork belly perfectly grilled with little fat, in a delicious sauce) to the steak we shared, which was served sliced with some grainy rice, broccoli, and a berry sauce that was more savory than sweet. I was skeptical of the Black Forest cake but it was better than the cake I had in its namesake place – – Germany’s Black Forest. This one was rich and chocolaty with tart cherries, and not sweet whipped cream.

Lunch was very different, at the original BK Tacos in South Tucson. We couldn’t stomach its famous Sonoran hotdog (we’re not huge Chicago hotdog fans either…there’s a Portillo’s here, for homesick Chicagoans. We far prefer Wisconsin’s brats) but their other specialty carne asada was good, especially the flour tortillas. Our favorite was the taco Birria – the discovery this trip: a French-dip style taco with shredded beef.

breakfast was the amazing Barrio Bread we ordered two days in advance to avoid the long line! we got two loaves but they were so huge we gave one to our friends here. The heritage bread looked lovely, with an image of a saguaro in the crust. But we kept the cinnamon raisin, which is so good. (I watched a travel video about Barrio Bread at a nail salon in Chicago two days before our Tucson trip…and made a beeline for the place,when we arrived.)

In between eating, we did do some hiking , first at saguaro national park east (the east Mica View trail through a saguaro desert) and later at saguaro national park west (a less easy uphill and then downhill through the west trail – king canyon) across from the desert museum, which now costs $30 to go to).

The high was low 50s here and 76 in Chicago (can you say: global warming?) but no matter. We had fun exploring. First stop a farmers market in nearby Udall Park. Not a lot of produce but always interesting to see what’s for sale. The longest line was for raw milk (can you say: rfk jr. ?) Other offerings: elk antler chews for dogs, African shea butter (the African salesman gave me a hand massage while applying a sample), Ukrainian pastries, Mexican hot sauces.

We wandered around the old Tanque Verde Ranch, a resort on an old ranch in the foothills dotted with saguaros, full of western character- – low adobe ranch-style buildings with atmospheric old rooms with wood floors and wood beams ceilings, stones and tiles, a cool dining room that serves famed blueberry pancakes, a tiny nature museum with live rattlesnakes, spectacular views of the mountains, an old western bar— all open to visitors including spa services. And near the trailhead for a popular hike at the east end of Speedway.

Onto lunch at the Cup cafe in the honky Tonk Hotel Congress downtown. Great food and vibes in funky old western hotel famous for its rock n’ roll bar with live music.

We drove about an hour north to the Triangle L Art Ranch in the unincorporated town of Oracle, a remote and windy desert landscape with snow-capped mountains off in the distance. We pulled into a dirt road that led to a faded old ranch (the opposite of tanque verde) with a few buildings and sure enough, art installations dotting the “magic path.”) one other couple arrived and left quickly. It was cold.

We braved the wind and cold (40s) and wandered on the winding desert path, admiring the mix of sculpture and nature. A gallery and gift shop were padlocked but we called a number listed on the front and a very nice artist promptly drive in and open up the spaces. The crafts were quite good (I bought a few gifts.) it’s regularly open on Saturdays.

well worth the visit, although maybe on a warmer day. The place hosts an annual “glow” event in October where the art installations are lit up at night. (There’s also a less official glow in April).

In oracle, one of those strange windwhipped western outposts, we found a cluttered antique/junk shop worth a quick visit.

No sign of the bobcat that lives outside our casita, along the stucco wall that wraps around the pool but the casita’s two large picture windows make us feel like we’re almost part of the desert. (or Tucson’s famous Desert Museum.)

This morning a coyote appeared in the cactuses (barrels, paddles, small saguaros, purple cholla), palo verde trees, and thorny brush outside the west-facing window behind our bed. And as we ate breakfast next to a large north-facing window, a hummingbird ate its breakfast from a feeder, a few feet from us. Little yellow- bellied birds (warblers?) are aflutter around other feeders and grounded quail come bumbling down the desert path, reminding dirck of a comedy duo.

The weather started to turn yesterday while we were hiking in Sabina Canyon on the seven falls trail in Bear canyon, But it began nearly perfect, in the high 60s, clear blue sky behind the jagged mountains, sun and shade on the trail which was mostly flat and low in the canyon bed. There’s no water in the “seven falls” we were headed towards. We took the bear canyon shuttle because the sabino canyon shuttle was sold out for several hours. (The downside of being here during spring break. kartchner cavern tours are also sold out) but the hike was a pleasant surprise. We went about 4 miles round trip, stopping midway to share a sandwich from Beyond Bread, sitting on a flat rock outcropping that gave us some shade. Took about 3 hours (although other hikers went much faster.)

As we were heading back, the wind started to pick up and giant white clouds moved across the mountain tops, followed by ominous dark clouds.

Fortunately, we were back at the casita when the rain started in the early evening. (No viewing of a rare “blood” red moon, alas.) Dinner was more inventive tacos, this time at Boca, a funky-hip restaurant on 4th avenue run by a chef who competed on the TV show Top Chef.

The weather has dipped into the 40s but no rain and it will be 87 in two days, so maybe we can finally swim in the now-chilly pool outside our casita. The temps have been all over the place, with highs in 70s to 50s so far).

We went full bore tourist today. No apologies. Our Airbnb host suggested a fantastic hike nearby the didn’t involve paying a fee. So we drove a little north and east to the Ventana Canyon Trailhead and hiked for an hour on a fairly easy trail through the desert and into the mountains. Perfect. It had stormed the night before so the sky over the mountains was particularly dramatic as the dark clouds moved east and patches of blue soon became full on blue sky, with sunshine.

Downtown we went on a two hour bike ride through historic neighborhoods of Tucson with Lorraine, a knowledgeable and low-key guide with Tucson Bike Tours. (Itinerary recap below)

We rode about nine miles in and out of various historic neighborhoods – the barrio Viejo, the presidio, courthouse and La placita, armory park, the downtown area around the Hotel Congress, mission district and loop river trail, the fourth avenue area, a former black neighborhood called Dunbar spring and west university. I’d been to a few places but didn’t really know how close they were to each other. Also saw some new places – the house where linda rondstadt grew up, a row house Diane Keaton bought and resold for a gob of money (she didn’t live in Tucson, our guide thought).

We also visited many places we’d never been, hidden parks (one dedicated to sinners), the first synagogue in Tucson (now a holocaust memorial and museum), the presidio court house (where Dillinger and Johnny depp had court dates), a moving memorial to Jan. 8, 2011 when Rep. Gabby Giffords and several other people were injured or killed in a mass shooting. Lorraine also was big on pointing out interesting murals, restaurants, sculpture, landmarks, cool signs.

We ended up having a late lunch at Seis Kitchen, which served excellent inventive tacos and prickly pear lemonade.

You order at a takeout window and then they send you to a table with your anointed number (a good system so you don’t have to search for a table) in the pretty open courtyard surrounded by small shops (a good men’s shop called Laughlin) and another well known restaurant St. Augustin Kitchen.

Miscellaneous: On 4th Avenue, we went to a very cute store with local crafts called Popcycle and appreciated the free bathroom at the food coop which had good looking sandwiches, among other attractive offerings.

DOWNTOWN

1. Coronado Hotel – Beautiful 1928 hotel designed by Roy Place.
2. 4th Avenue – Funky shopping and entertainment street with a streetcar line.
3. Hotel Congress – Classic 1919 hotel. Biker-artist Larry Boyce painted the art-deco lobby. Hotel is famous for a fire in 1934 that led to John Dillinger’s arrest.
4. Rialto Theatre – Just across from Hotel Congress. Most elegant theater west of the Mississippi when built in 1919. Nice murals in this area, both rotating and permanent.
5. Southern Pacific Station – Train arrived in 1880 to much fanfare, including a telegram to the Pope. Tucson changed from a village to a city. Cut travel time to San Francisco from 10 days to 2. Also site of Wyatt Earp shooting Frank Stillwell. Engine 1673 hauled a million miles of freight and appeared in the 1954 movie Oklahoma.
6. Borderlands Brewery – One of many craft brewers in Tucson. They specialize in adding local ingredients, like prickly pear. First brewery was built by Alexander Levin in 1864. A surreal mural in the back wall.
7. Transfer Building – Rock Martinez’ “Agave Lady” is really big and really beautiful. The spot also offers a nice view of the giant cycling cowboy mural, by Joe Pagac.

THE PRESIDIO

1. El Charro – Oldest continuously family-owned Mexican restaurant in the USA. Popularized the chimichanga.
2. Sonoran Row Houses – Beautiful homes from the 1860’s and 70’s.
3. Main Ave – Used to be Calle Real, or Royal Road, part of a Spanish road system starting in Mexico City.
4. Owl’s Club – Turn of the century bachelor pad designed by Henry Trost. Now home to a conservation organization that got its start protecting owl habitat.
5. Steinfeld Mansion – Wealthy retailer’s home designed by Henry Trost.
6. Sam Hughes House – Kicked off a stagecoach in 1858 to die of TB in Tucson. Recovered and became one of Tucson’s most important civic, business, and educational leaders.
7. Tucson Museum of Art – Nice campus with an impressive collection of Western American, Latin American, and Pre-Columbian art.
8. Casa Cordova – The oldest house downtown, from 1848.
9. Old Town Artisans – Old 1860’s building, now home to an interesting artists’ market and a beautiful courtyard offering food and drinks.
10. El Presidio de San Agustin – Spanish fort founded in 1775 by Hugo O’Conner. Mostly gone now, but the original foundation remains in places along with reconstructed walls. Also home to an ancient Hohokam pit house.

COURTHOUSE & LA PLACITA

1. Pima County Courthouse – Designed by Roy Place. Beautful mission revival style. There was some controversy about the color and design at the time, but now much admired.
2. Veinte de Agosto Park – Site of original cathedral. Site of a federal homeless rights lawsuit and a statue or Poncho Villa, a controversial present from Mexico.
3. Fox Theatre – Neat old theater. Saw success during the Great Depression. First building in Tucson with air conditioning, which was critical to post WW-II growth.
4. La Placita – 40 year old mixed use urban renewal project. Home of the Tucson convention center. Wiped out a good chunk of the Old Barrio.

ARMORY PARK

1. Cathedral San Agustin – 2nd site. Built in 1896. Has some nice southwest features, such as horned-toad lizards and saguaro cactus.
2. Old Pueblo Club – Former gentlemen’s club that hosted John Wayne, Buffalo Bill, and Charles Lindbergh. Made from California brick. Currently veteran housing.
3. Griffin – 12’ tall half lion half eagle made from steel.
4. Scottish Rights Cathedral – Mason’s hall built in 1915.
5. Carnegie Library – Built in 1901, now the Children’s Museum.
6. Blenman House – Tucson’s first Victorian home from 1878. The only known adobe Victorian. Now a B&B.
7. Temple of Music & Art – Spanish Colonial Revival building from 1926. Home of Arizona Theatre Company.

BARRIO VIEJO

1. Convent & Meyer Aves – Colorful adobe homes line these two narrow streets. Many of the homes have been restored recently, including one by actress Diane Keaton.
2. Teatro Carmen – Built in 1915. Was a Spanish language cultural institution.
3. El Tiradito – A little shrine that saved Barrio Viejo from being destroyed by freeway construction. In memory of a ranch hand who was killed due to romantic involvement with his mother in law! Still a functioning shrine where many people write messages and burn candles to ask for a wish.
4. La Pillita & Elysian Grove Market – The area used to be Carrillo Gardens and Elysian Grove, a nice area in the late 1800’s for a picnic and even a boat ride. Leopoldo Carrillo was Tucson’s wealthiest man. Owed over 100 properties, appointed himself water commissioner, and went by the job title “Capitalist.”
5. San Cosme Chapel – From 1929 with nice art. Cosme is Greek for “harmony” and was the name of the first European mission established in Tucson along the Santa Cruz river in 1692.

MISSION DISTRICT & THE LOOP RIVER TRAIL

1. Santa Cruz River – The reason Tucson exists. For thousands of years this stretch always had flowing water. Due to groundwater pumping, now dry.
2. “A” Mountain – Made of basalt rock, it is the reason why the Santa Cruz river water was pushed to the surface here. The name Tucson is comes from the Pima Indian word “chuk-shon”, which means “at the foot of dark mountain.” Also called Sentinel Peak. Sentinels were indeed stationed at the top to watch for attacks. The “A” was placed on top with stones by University of Arizona students in 1914 after a football victory.
3. Mission Gardens – Recreation of historic 1770’s garden and mission. The area has native artifacts going back to 2000 BC. Was turned into a landfill but it is in the process of being redeveloped.
4. Mercado San Agustin & MSA Annex – Nice market offering traditional Sonoran cuisine.
5. Phina’s Tree – Tallest tree in Tucson. Planted by a girl in 1910.
6. Gardens of Gethesemane – Religious park built by Felix Lucero, a homeless WW-I veteran living under the Congress St bridge.
7. The Loop – a 130 mile paved path system around Tucson.

DUNBAR SPRING & WEST UNIVERSITY

1. The Bike Church – Cool art gazebo made from old bike parts.
2. Jim’s Market – Pretty little former market in what was Tucson’s prominent African-American neighborhood.
3. Mural at Merle’s – Sprawling mural by Sue Johnson, who helped create the All Souls Procession. Water harvesting projects in this area too.
4. Ronstadt Residence – Old victorian home of Linda’s grandfather, Fredrick. He made wagons, she sang hits (21 in the top 40).