Getting Global Entry – piece of cake, to my surprise

I admit to having a somewhat irrational fear of government bureaucracy, especially now, during Trump 2.0, when people have been detained during seemingly routine bureaucratic visits and whisked away without due process. Granted I am a white, older, American-born, middle class woman so much less of a target in Trump’s America than an immigrant and/or person of color. I’ve also been wary of bureaucratic ineptitude, a perception stoked sadly by the Trump administration’s distain for government AND its decimation of government, with mass firings of federal workers.

So I was surprised that getting Global Entry – which will allow me to bypass long lines when re-entering the country after an international flight – was a piece of cake. Not that this is necessarily typical. I got lucky. My husband applied at the same time that I did and is still awaiting word that he’s jumped through the first hoop (“conditional approval.”) In my case, conditional approval arrived via email a day after I applied. I’m told this is the luck of the draw. Sometimes three members of a family will get conditional approval swiftly while a fourth member has to wait awhile.

Even the next step went well for me: a face-to-face appointment with immigration folks, either in downtown Chicago or at O’Hare. I picked O’Hare and today I made it to the airport and back in two hours, with a bonus: a surprise email received on the Blue Line train notifying me that my Global Entry was approved! It helped that everything went unexpectedly well with transportation – no horrific traffic jams on the drive to the Western stop of the Blue Line at 8:30 a.m.; the O’Hare El train came just as I arrived and took about 35 minutes; the 25 minute trek to the Global Entry office, a drab office tucked behind a baggage carousel (#12) in faraway Terminal 5 (international flights) was easy. I arrived 35 minutes before my 10:20 appointment and hunkered down in the sterile waiting room, but was called within five minutes.

Although I’d been warned that the immigration interviewer would be taciturn, mine couldn’t have been more pleasant. (Apparently my early arrival worked well for him.) He verified some application information and corrected one error that listed Chicago as my birthplace. (It’s Detroit). I piped up that I forgot to list one country (among others) that I visited during the past 5 years on my application. No problemo. He asked if I had a criminal record or immigration violations and then took my fingerprints (using a scanner to get images of my thumb and four fingers of each hand…my first experience fingerprinting). Then he patiently answered my questions (several about why my husband’s application process wasn’t as swift). And away I went after about 10 minutes. He told me I should hear back later today or on Sunday – after my fingerprints were screened by the FBI (or some such).

The Global Entry is good for five years and also includes TSA Precheck, so I can avoid the longer lines at security when arriving for a flight. I’ve rarely found the lines that awful but friends urged me to get global entry since we travel internationally a lot. But I probably won’t use mine until my husband’s goes through so hoping that happens soon! And now, if only, there was a way to avoid the sometimes long lines at customs/immigration when arriving at Heathrow and other international airports.

Here’s the official spiel: Global Entry is a U.S. Customs and Border Protection (CBP) Trusted Traveler Program that allows expedited clearance for pre-approved, low-risk travelers upon arrival in the United States. The application fee is $120, and membership lasts for five years. All applicants must undergo a background check.
 

Available to use at land borders

Global Entry Benefits

Available at major U.S. Airports

Reduced wait times in expedited processing lines

TSA Precheck access

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The $23 burger/John’s Food and Wine; the chicken kafta dinner at Cedar Palace/Middle Eastern – dining in Chicago’s Lincoln Park

John’s Food and Wine

If you’re going to spend $23 on a cheeseburger, it better be an exceptional cheeseburger – and indeed it was at John’s Food and Wine, a small upscale lunch and dinner spot with a cocktail bar on Halstead in Lincoln Park. We split the burger for lunch (served Friday-Sunday) – plus an order of beef fat fries with aioli and a delicious “Little Gem” salad with little gem lettuce (somewhere between butterhead and romaine), charred ramps, ample white shavings of ricotta salata (the dry version of ricotta) and a creamy greenish buttermilk dressing (think refined Green Goddess).

What made that burger so good? It was perfectly charred on the outside – which explained why John’s open kitchen was sending out smoke, although it never got too smokey (the burger is popular); the meat was house-ground fresh and a perfect medium rare; topped with melted clothbound cheddar cheese and aioli; the bun was a homemade yellowy, slightly sweet milk bun, perfectly toasted. My iced expresso was just right, not too heavy or too sweet. We’ll be back!

Springtime

Slightly closer to home is our neighborhood Middle Eastern/Mediterranean restaurant, Cedar Palace, on Armitage, that we forget to go to. I longed for a good Middle Eastern restaurant in Des Moines – and now there’s one two blocks away. First, the hummus is not too tangy or gritty, just the right creamy consistency and amount of garlic and lemon. Everything else I’ve tried is good including the chicken kafta dinner (which we shared; $22.99 including good yellow lentil soup). The back patio is lovely when the weather permits (and oddly, located next to one of Chicago’s most expensive mansions on Orchard Street) and in the winter the small dining room is cozy and welcoming.

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All Together Now, Bari Italian Foods, D’Amato’s Bakery and subs, Komodo (gifts) – in Chicago’s West Town

I’m still trying to figure out the geography of Chicago’s West Town, which according to Choosechicago.com/neighborhoods, appears to be a catch-all for several neighborhoods, including Ukrainian Village, Wicker Park, Noble Square, East Village and River West but on another map I have (above) West Town is its own area, south of Ukrainian Village.

That said, we went to an excellent cheese and wine shop for lunch in the Ukrainian Village part of West Town, on Chicago Avenue, recommended to us by a suburban Detroit cheesemonger. All Together Now (think Beatles lyric to try to remember) is a cheerful place with a cool counter and a few tables. Their chicken liver mouse, served in a small jar topped with a layer of congealed oil/fat, was delicious, served with crispy baguette slices, a sweet jam, a country-style Poupon mustard, and tiny pickles (cornichons). The mouse sells for $8 in the shop. The smashed potatoes came with two sauces – one creamy white, another tangy red. And a simple sandwich with excellent ingredients – fresh baguette, Pleasant Ridge cheese (from Wisconsin), salami, and that Poupon-y mustard, was delicious. (We also visited the nearby shop Komodo, which has a cool selection of gifts – jewelry, cards, incense, plants etc.) Other recommended cheese and specialty food shops to visit in Logan Square – The Rind and Lardon.

Since moving to Chicago, we’ve been searching for a conveniently located Italian import store that matches one we love in Des Moines (Graziano’s). Bari Foods on West Grand Street, fits the bill, with a deli counter offering fresh ricotta and mozzarella, homemade sausage, and cold cuts including prosciutto and genoa salami. Next door, we stood in line to buy bread at the Italian bakery and sub shop D’Amato (most people were buying sandwiches and thick slabs of pizza-like focaccia – or focaccia-like pizza.) These shops are not in Chicago’s Little Italy, which is a little further south. (Last month, we tried the huge Italian supermarket Angelo Caputo’s in the western suburb of Elmwood Park, which also has a great deli counter but is less convenient for us city dwellers. Next time I’m in that neck of the woods, I’d like to try Capri Italian Food, 7325 W. North Ave. in River Forest, which is less supermarket.)

The famous Publican Breads is just west of the Italian shops on Grand but, sadly, was closed by 3 p.m. (we arrived at 3:05 p.m.) Also closed by 3 p.m. but worth a future visit – a curiously named coffee and home goods store, The Center of Order and Experimentation at 1727 W. Grand Ave that is also home to Martha Mae (the uber-curated art supplies and “beautiful things” shop formerly of Andersonville).

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Chicago restaurant round-up (after 3 years living here)

When we moved to Chicago three years ago, I decided not to post about every wonderful (or not wonderful) discovery here because 1) I was writing a book and had little time for any other writing and 2) I didn’t want to write as a visitor to Chicago. I wanted to be a Chicagoan.

Lula Cafe – It has a hippie-hipster Logan Square vibe with an eclectic new American farm-to-table, fresh vegetable-forward, fare influenced by far-flung spots. We go most often for special dinner occasions (birthdays, out-of-town visitors) but lunch/brunch is good too. Highlights: Baked Feta, Pasta Yia Yia, Caesar Salad, Carrot Cake.

But now that I have more time – and I’m a sort-of Chicagoan – I hope to write more about the city, so readers can benefit from my discoveries and so I can remember my discoveries. With so many dining options in Chicago, it’s hard to keep visiting the same one. There’s always another beckoning. But here are 10 restaurants that we have returned to one or more times – so they qualify as favorites:

Riccardo Trattoria – This is our favorite local traditional Italian restaurant, near us in Lincoln Park. (There’s another one in Fulton market). It’s a small, warm, and cozy space with solid not too basic or complicated Italian classics like Fettucine Bolognese and feels like a real neighborhood spot.

Le Bouchon – Another warm and cozy spot, this time in Bucktown, serving French bistro classics: steak frites, mussels w/frites, French onion soup; Caesar Salad, delicious baguettes.

Small Cheval – This is a favorite fast-foody casual burger place, a spin-off of Au Cheval on Randolph. We used to go to the one on Wells in Old Town but now there’s one even closer, on Halstead in Lincoln Park.

Cumin – Our go-to for take-out Indian food, located in Wicker Park. We’re also fans of Kama, nearby in Wicker Park, but even better in the southwest burb of La Grange, which offers superb tandoori chicken cooked in an oven that apparently doesn’t meet Chicago health code so isn’t available at the city location…or wasn’t when we last visited.)

Kala – Our favorite fast-foody casual Modern Greek spot in Lincoln Park/lakeview, with souvlaki bowls – grilled and charred meat or vegetables from skewers served as a sandwich or atop salad or rice.

Smoque BBQ – Excellent smoked ribs, brisket, pulled pork, conveniently located in Old Irving Park near our kids’ place i so we can order when visiting and/or babysitting.

Aba – Buzzing Fulton Market California-influenced Mediterranean restaurant with shared plates – including whipped feta and charred eggplant spreads, kebabs, shawarma-spiced skirt steak.

The Gage – Favorite spot pre-or-post theater or museum on Michigan Avenue at Millennium Park, serving European-influenced American fare (or some such)…i.e. wide variety of food for light or heavier dining.

Hopleaf – A Belgium gastro pub in Andersonville with excellent mussels w/frites, beer, crispy pork belly, and quiet shady back outdoor patio.

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Filed under 1) Home Turf, Chicago, DINING

Cowles Bog – Indiana Dunes National Park

I have only been to the Indiana Dunes a few times but will soon have more time to explore it. High on my list is a visit to Cowles Bog, which a local recommended for its abundance of rarely seen wildlife. (“You’ll see thing you never saw before,” he told us.) We drove by the bog recently during a quick visit to see the “Century of Progress” homes nearby and learned that it offers a 4.7 mile hike “moderate to rugged with steep dune climbs in loose sand” and dogs are allowed. Its ponds, marsh, swamp, black oak woodland, and those dunes offer such a diversity of wildlife that it was named a National Natural Landmark in the 1960s.

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Mid-century modern gems along the lakefront – Beverly Shores/Indiana dunes national park

It took us awhile to find them but the five “century of progress homes” produced for the 1933 Chicago world’s fair were worth the hunt. We drove west along the Indiana Dunes National shoreline until there they were. We parked our car (15 minutes allowed) at about 6:30 on a Saturday afternoon and walked right up to the homes, including the stunning “Florida Tropical House” right above the silky sand beach. The silhouette of the Chicago skyline rose like a distant Oz across the shimmering water of Lake Michigan. The “flamingo pink Art Deco” Florida house – designed to resemble an ocean-liner, was the only state-commissioned house, commissioned by Florida, to lure tourists. Word has it the Florida house is a navigational landmark for Lake Michigan boaters.

The five homes were relocated here after the fair. They were considered state-of-the-art at the time, with new-fangled options like air-conditioning and dishwashers. A real estate developer (who wanted to lure buyers to his new Beverly Shores resort community) bought five of them (not clear how many there were total) and had four shipped by barge to Indiana and one transported by truck. There’s an annual tour of them in September that sells out quickly when the tix go on sale. Apparently some are lived in by people subleasing them and using private funds to restore them.

The Indiana dunes is an odd mix of natural and industrial worlds, with beaches and wildlife areas (friends from here recommend Cowles bog trail for wildlife) but also a nuclear cooling tower and steel mills.

Wiebolt-Rostone House

The Wiebot-Rostone House’s experimental materials apparently didn’t prove up to snuff, although its very cool looking. Billed as a material that would never need repairs, Rostone was made of limestone, shale, and alkali. But it proved no match for harsh lake-effect weather (snow etc.) and the air pollution of its industrial neighbors (steel mills, refineries.) By the 1950s, it was deteriorating and recovered in Perma-stone, a concrete stucco. It was later restored with a new improved synthetic Rostone. Perhaps most astonishing is that the 120-130 ton house was transported by barge (it was the heaviest house moved).

Here’s more info from the National Park Service:

1933 Chicago World’s Fair Century of Progress Homes

The annual tour is held on the last weekend of September.
The tour is sponsored by the non-profit organization Indiana Landmarks.
Tickets go on sale early in August and usually sell out within one hour.For information on the exact tour date, ticket sale date, pricing, and all other information, please visit the Indiana Landmarks’ website.

The 1933 World’s Fair in Chicago—called the Century of Progress—offered millions of people in the depths of the Great Depression a hopeful vision that highlighted futuristic changes on the horizon. Developer Robert Bartlett brought a dozen buildings from the fair including five from the Homes and Industrial Arts housing exhibit that make up the Century of Progress Historic District. The buildings were moved by barge and truck to Beverly Shores, a resort community he was developing on the Indiana shore of Lake Michigan. You can visit the cluster of five landmarks on the annual Century of Progress home, sponsored by Indiana Landmarks in partnership with the National Park Service.

The tour admits you to the first floors of the Florida Tropical, Rostone, Armco-Ferro and Cypress houses. As you can tell by their names, the houses at the fair promoted products for residential living—Florida’s beachy appeal, and artificial stone, enameled steel, and cypress wood as building materials.

Four of the five houses looked wildly modern in 1933, so ahead of their time that they remain modern looking today. The Cypress House, honoring its material, looks like a rustic log cabin, albeit with modern amenities. To save the structures, Indiana Landmarks leased them from the National Park Service, then subleased four to people who have restored them in exchange for long-term leases.

You’ll also tour the House of Tomorrow (declared a National Treasure by the National Trust for Historic Preservation) in its dilapidated state. Indiana Landmarks is currently accepting proposals for the property’s restoration and long-term lease.

The tour lasts a little over two hours and is guided by park rangers and volunteers who will provide histories and architectural overviews at each property.

Because there is no parking available in the historic district, your timed entry ticket includes shuttle transportation to the district from the Indiana Dunes Visitor Center, 1215 North State Road 49, Porter, IN, 46304. The private homes are clustered together on either side of Lake Front Drive within easy walking distance of one another.

Touring the historic homes requires walking and climbing stairs. If you require accommodation, please call Indiana Landmarks’ Northern Regional Office, 574-232-4534.

Tickets cost is $35/person, ($30/member of Indiana Landmarks or Dunes National Park Association) (2018 prices, subject to change).A Century of Progress – The 1933 World’s Fair HomesOver 85 years of wind, sand, and surf have battered the five World’s Fair houses located along Lake Front Drive in Beverly Shores, but their uniqueness has weathered the elements. With the theme of a Century of Progress, the houses were built for the 1933 Chicago World’s Fair to demonstrate modern architectural design, experimental materials, and new technologies such as central air conditioning and dishwashers.Four of the houses were brought to the dunes by barge in 1935 by real estate developer Robert Bartlett. The Cypress Log Cabin was dismantled at the fair and moved by truck. Bartlett hoped that the high profile houses would entice buyers to his new resort community of Beverly Shores. Today the houses are listed on the National Register of Historic Places and the houses have been leased by the non-profit organization Indiana Landmarks. Through this organization, private individuals or families have leased the homes and are rehabilitating them. Please respect these agreements by not trespassing on the properties.

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Mongers/The Rind and Catching Fireflies – Berkley, Mi and Cafe Corina in Farmington.

I was more of a Royal Oak gal growing up in suburban Detroit than a Berkley gal. But today I discovered Berkley anew, while visiting my family here. I generally thought of Berkeley’s business district as being along Coolidge road but turn the corner heading north on 12 mile and there is some interesting entrepreneurial stuff going on, the kind I associated with Royal Oak.

We had a charcuterie board at The Rind, the restaurant in the shop Mongers (as in cheese mongers), which also has excellent fresh soups (tomato, mushroom) and sandwiches (grilled cheese with bacon; a hefty muffuletta). The gourmet food area next to the dining area has lots of well-chosen cheeses (Pleasant ridge!), cured meats, chocolates etc. The cheese monger world is tight knit. The Monger owner told me he’s hung out with other cheese mongers I know including my cousin in Great Barrington, MA (@ Rubiner’s cheesemongers) and in Des Moines (The Cheese shop).

Next door we found a gift store I first visited in Ann Arbor, Catching Fireflies, which turned out to be the original store, in Berkley for some 20 years. Who knew?

Dinner was hearty Italian food at the old school Cafe Cortina in Farmington which has been around since the 1970s, I believe.

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Caitlin Clark and the Indiana Fever, Carver-Hawkeye arena – Iowa City

A complete thrill to see West Des Moines-native basketball phenom Caitlin Clark in person as she effortlessly (or so it seemed) made one of her signature “logo threes” — this one, 36 feet from the basket. We were in the packed U of Iowa basketball arena, Carver-Hawkeye. (Just watching her jaw-droppingly astute passes almost would have been enough.) This was Caitlin’s first return to play at UI since her senior year, only a year ago. Seeing her in action as a WNBA player was like seeing a famous rock star, but with the unusual added familiarity of the star being an Iowa kid. Caitlin is Iowans’ rock star/next door neighbor.

This outing was even better with my friend Jane beside me. (she also snagged the hard-to-snag tickets.) Jane has covered women’s basketball in Iowa since way before its current popularity. She patiently answered my newbie-fan girl questions. For more see her excellent substack account: https://janeburns.substack.com/p/an-expedition-of-joy-and-basketball

As Jane explained, a logo shot (for three points) is when the player shoots from the logo design inscribed on the center of the court. In this case, Caitlin shot from beyond the 22 logo on the court. (22 is Clark’s retired Iowa jersey # and now her Indiana Fever number.) It’s a long way to the basket from there! The crowd (my three friends and moi included) went wild. The discreet 22 logo on the court (next to a larger Mediacom logo) is the spot where Caitlin, in her U of Iowa heyday in 2024, hit a logo three to break the NCAA’s all-time scoring record (that’s for women and men, my veteran basketball fan husband reminded me). To honor her achievement, the “22 Clark” was inscribed on the court.

This time, Caitlin dribbled down to mid-court, jumped into the air and shot the ball over her head, which soared in an arc above the court and right into the basket, hitting nothing but net, no rim. (I’m getting a lingo assist here from my husband). She made it look effortless. Graceful. She leapt like a dancer.

The Indiana Fever was in town to play a pre-season exhibition game against the Brazilian national team. The Brazilians got clobbered (100-something to 40-something…I soon ignored the score) and seemed as much in awe of Caitlin Clark as the older women and little girls in attendance. The Brazil players waited in a cluster with the little girls to have their photo taken with Caitlin. The stadium was packed with proud Iowans in #22 shirts. (I wore my #22 sweatshirt until it got too hot.)

Courtside

This exhibition game was unusual but for future visitors going to Carver-Hawkeye to see the Iowa women (or men) play, a few tips: We had excellent reserved parking for $20 in the lot across the street from the arena and there’s a grassy area with shade from trees for picnicking, but no tables or ledges. (Bring a fold up table and/or chairs.) A few others were tailgating. The arena has no AC and has a reputation for being hot. I didn’t find this an issue but it was a cool day in May. Also remember to bring a see-through bag. My not-see-through bag is small but wasn’t small enough. (It was oversized by 1/2 inch width and height.)

Walking to the arena

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Graziano’s, Moglea, Zanzibar, Nadia’s, La Mie, downtown Farmers Market- Des Moines redux

We continued our sentimental tour of Des Moines, stopping at favorite spots and remembered how much we enjoyed life here. first to Graziano’s Italian Import store where I had to restrain myself from buying too much at the deli counter. but I did get cacciatore, smoked provolone, salami, spicy green olives, for a gathering here.

Nadia’s

We stopped at Moglea, which few people in Des Moines seem to know about but has its colorful paper products prominently displayed in fancy stationary stores and art museum gift shops in places like Chicago and New York. It’s Des Moines production print shop has a little retail space and better yet, some good sale merch so I stocked up on gifts.

Moglea

Onto a little French bakery called Nadia’s near the governor’s mansion at Terrace Hill. The pastries looked good but we went to Zanzibar, an old favorite for coffee and met our friend Veronica at La Mie, another favorite bakery and lunch spot.

Zanzibar

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return to Des Moines – allora, worn, art center,bauders, May Day rally at capital

Busy day in my old stomping ground. I had an excellent lunch downtown at Allora, a sophisticated but casual lunch place in the very cool Krause Center, a 2018 Renzo Piano marvel, formerly home of the Kum & Go, that is now practically empty after the sale of that awkwardly name gas/convenience store company. The food was terrific.

I had a salad with long strip so of crispy prosciutto cooked like bacon, slices of Parmesan, apples, pecans, walnuts on greens. My friend Judy had a delicous creamy polenta with grilled mushrooms, carrots, garlic and onion. Excellent flavor. And there’s the Des Moines sculpture park to look at across the street.

Art center installation (with video screens inside)

I was sad to see that Bauder’s Ice cream on the now nicely named Ingersoll Ave is no more but Judy gave me the tip of the day: nearby Tandem Brick (frame shop/gifts) has a cooler full of bauder’s famouse peppermint ice cream sandwiches, so you don’t have to wait until the iowa state fair to get them! (The also sell the killer peppermint ice cream pie with chocolate cookie crust and a layer of chocolate fudge.😳

Next stop the fantastic Des Moines Art Center which has an interesting one-room exhibit of Haitian art borrowed from the famous collection in Waterloo. I dropped by Worn, one of my favorite resale shops and scored big time with two pairs of my favorite jeans, Democracy; also stopped at Gateway Market, picked up worlds best bread from South Union bakery. For old times sake, I ripped off a piece of chewy choibattta in the car to eat as a midday snack.

This afternoon, my friends Kathy and I went to an anti-Trump rally at the state Capitol. So good to see so many people there, resisting!

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