Nashville restaurant recommendations from a Pinewood Social server.

Our young server at the trendy Pinewood Social restaurant/fun house was so enthusiastic about her new hometown – Nashville – that she eagerly offered us a handwritten list of her favorite places to eat in town, even broken down by category.
Here it is: (I couldn’t always read her handwriting so some of these may not be correct spellings…)

Italian: Rolf and Daughters, Moto, Mafraoza’s
Breakfast: Fenwick’s, 300, Sky Blue (which we went to in East Nashville!)
Deli/Sandwich: Duke’s (also a bar), Mitchell
Mexican: Mas Tacos, Rosepepper, Sait Anejo
Ramen: Twoten Jack
Dessert: Five Daughters (we went there too – pricey rich donuts); Jeni’s (ice cream)
Bars: Patterson House, Bastion

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Nashville farmers market, Arnold’s Country Kitchen, original Barista Parlor and unexpected trip home via Kansas City 

Hanging at our Airbnb Lilypad.

Hanging at our Airbnb Lilypad.

Arnold’s Country Kitchen looked slightly swollen compared to my first visit three years ago. Turns out it is in the middle of an expansion. Fortunately it was open and still serving terrific meat and three sides, albeit in an lighter, less cramped space. Everything was delicious – fried chicken, roast beef, trout, kielbasa mains and sides including mashed potatoes, cauliflower casserole etc. The chess pie with meringue was too sweet for all of us. I guess one sign of nashvilles popularity is the fact that two of the places I visited three years ago have expanded (on site like Arnold’s or new location like the Family Wash).

WHile the rest of the gang went to the Country Music Hall of Fame, I explored neighborhoods some more, stopping at the farmers market in Germantown which has an indoor food court with a cool store called “Batch” that sells small batch food makers’ goods and a jam-packed international foods market. We ended up at the original Barista Parlor coffee house in east Nashville, playing scrabble and dealing with screwed up flights home. OUr flight was messed up by air traffic control issues in LA, of all places, that led our plane to arrive late and leave late from Nashville, too late for us to make our connection in St. Louis. Which is how we ended up flying unexpectedly to Kansas City and driving a rental car through the dark and fog ack to Des Moines.

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Road trip to Franklin, Leiper’s Fork, Arrington Vineyard – Pucketts, two locayions

We got lucky  with the weather for our road trip south into Tennessee walking horse country. Following winding two lane back roads in and out of hollers, often along roads lined with fences, past Confederate battle sites, gracious old southern horse farms and garish McMansions, we stopped for a great lunch at Puckett’s – outstanding mufaletta sandwich with dirty rice, fried catfish poboys, gumbo, key lime pie in a fun old space full of music triangle memorabilia. The Sunday brunch for $17 was more than all but one of us could manage. Quite a deal.

We walked around the square (more like a circle) in tony downtown Franklin and found a few stores open (with some good sales) and Civil War sites. Also stopped in the visitors center where we got a helpful map of back roads to quaint Leiper’s Fork which was much more lively on a Sunday than when I visited on a weekday. The general store, also owned by Puckett’s, is wonderfully scruffy, with shelved lined with large cans of collard greens and bags of black eyed peas. Well heeled bikers on bicycles and motorcycles) sat at outside tables, enjoying the sun and warm temps (low 60s). A little girl walked a baby pig on a leash in a little store beside the market. Four guys on guitars played oldies inside the market by the front counter.

Onto Bailey Road south (gorgeous) and a few other roads east to Arrington Vineyards, a beautiful spread atop a hillside with great views of horse farms nearby. PLace is owned by a country singer (Kix Brooks). Good wine too. Such a fun day!

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Pinewood Social, The 5 Spot, edleys BBQ, Parnasis Books, Hattie B’s, Germantown, The Family Wash

img_0906Somehow I got to talking with An owner/manager of the trendy Pinewood Social, a “scenery” space inside an old trolley car barn that has a restaurant, retro bowling alley, pool and lively bar and he ended up sending over a birthday whiskey to Dirck and free appetizers to our table, which was a nice touch. Next stop, the 5 Spot, an east Nashville club where we found ourselves at a mad 1980s dance party full of mostly young women dancing exuberantly to the music of my youth.img_0912

In the morning, Dirck and emma shelled out a stunning $27 for six donuts at Five Daughters Bakery which was outrageous. They were good but not that good and most were not only topped with frosting but frosting filled too. Way too sweet. The best one was simply sprinkled with sugar and flakey doughy inside. We walked around our Lockeland Springs neighborhood past more renovated bungalows and new interesting very modern homes. Also lots of small entrepreneurs including a homemade chocolate corner store around the block.img_0913

  1. Lunch was at Edleys BBQ in the 12south neighborhood, across from Reese Witherspoon s clothing store, which is uber preppy, sort of a cross between Talbots and LIly Pulitzer and seems to attract a lot of Reese lookalikes who pose for photos beside a wall mural on the side of the building.Good brisket at edleys. No ribs at lunch, only dinner. We explore the Germantown neighborhood north of downtown which has more cool old homes, these ones often brick and historic, plus new condos and small independent pricey shops with names like”rich hippie.” I wandered into one seemingly abandoned old brick building in a desolate spot by between the river and railroad tracks and found myself in this cavernous shop Peter Nappi, selling incredibly expensive Italian leather shoes.
    Germantown store

    Germantown store

    Also went to a very high design coffee place called Barista, co-owned by then Black Keys’ drummer and finally found the restaurant Rolf and Daughters inside an old factory. Such is life in Nashville.

    Germantown coffee

    Germantown coffee

TOnight we tried the hot fried chicken at Hattie B’s in midtown which was fun and faster than Prince’s. MIld was hot enough for me. DIrck had medium heat and Noah dared rather hot which was too much for me. We ended up at the Family Wash, another music place which had us confused at first because it’s in a different location than when we last visited 3-4 years ago. They  specialize, oddly, in Shepards pie.

Hot chicken

Hot chicken

And low key live music. we found the original local on greenwood near The Porter Street Bistro where I had. Good brunch during my last trip here.

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lilypad, Sky Blue Cafe, Art & Invention Gallery, the Pharmacy – East Nashville 

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Very fun day with all six of us here in East Nashville to celebrate Dirck’s 60th. We are staying in a sweet little two-bedroom Airbnb cottage on Lillian Street (aka the “lily pad”) with a foldout couch and air mattress for the two youngest in the living room.  The place is cozy with hipster cool decor, lots of old accents, thin wood slat floors, exposed brick and white subway tile and funky light fixtures in the neat little kitchen.

img_0409We walked east along Fatherland Street (kinda creepy name) lined with small fixed up bungalows and Victorians to Sky Blue Cafe, a little neighborhood corner spot with hearty creative brunch entrees (delicious  pancakes, omelettes, home fries bowls) and then walked over to the 5 Points area and visited a few shops I remember fondly from my last trip here several years ago, including Arts and Inventions, a crafts gallery (where I first discovered the fanciful birds painted y local Vicki Sawyer, who has gone on to major merchandizing…I spotted her products last month in Pasadena!) img_0897Other highlights include a few vintage clothing stores in the area, 5 Points pizza, the turnip truck market and a coolly named hotdog truck “I dream of Weenie” in an old VW camper. img_0411Last night I had an excellent brat at The Pharmacy, which also serves very fresh tasting and hefty burgers and sweet potato fries. We got birthday cupcakes at Nashville Sweets. Also visited a small shopping area with inviting small shops along Fatherland, including the wonderful Her Book Store, which was not exclusively for her…I bought a book  for a him.)img_0407

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If you’re heading to Iowa, my latest travel story in the Minneapolis Star Tribune may come in handy

Midwest Traveler: Exploring the birthplace of John Wayne in Winterset, Iowa

Beyond the Bridges of Madison County, an Iowa town celebrates  favorite son John Wayne. Click here!
 1wintersetpixjohnwaynemuseum

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Women’s March DSM and Marlene’s – Des Moines

dsmmarchpix2After a fantastic Women’s March in Des Moines (26,000 marchers estimated), I was ready for a warm and quiet meal which we did find on the south side at Marlene’s of Sevastopol Station ( which I gather is the name of the modern two-story strip mall Marlene’s is located in and is a former town site annexed by Des Moines – maybe this was a Ukrainian neighborhood?).

dsmmarchpix

We were a bit surprised to find at 7:30 on a Saturday night that they were already “out” of several of our first picks and the service was a bit slow (although our server was very nice and the host, who may have been Marlene, apologized). The food was largely good – spicy crab bisque,Cuban sandwich, good fries, risotto with shrimp appetizer (small portion but that was expected). The Caesar Salad was mediocre. Dessert was pleasant – a scoop  of chocolate gelato atop a wedge of sort of moist shortbread. The dining room was chilly for a winter night – concrete floors, plate glass windows, but the live music by a guitarist warmed things up. We’ll give it another go!

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Griffith Park, Amir’s garden, cypress park, four Cafe/Eagle Rock – Los Angeles 

img_0402Back in grey Des Moines but with fresh memories of sun and green and family and friends in Los Angeles. My friend Susan and I hiked up a hillside in Griffith Park, stopping to see the succulents planted in Amir’s Garden, then onto Cypress Park to see the house where Susan’s son lives (surprisingly roomy and airy group house for five 20 somethings in a transitional neighborhood).

img_0399WE had a late  and delicious lunch in the nearby Eagle Rock neighborhood at Four Cafe (I had a salad with chopped and grilled root vegetables, feta and grilled salmon, plus homemade grapefruit soda.). The best meals, of course, were cooked by my sister-in-law in Burbank!img_0398

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Venice,Mama Hongs, family & friends – la la land!



img_0782I have wandered around the pretty residential backstreets of Venice as a tourist many a time, but never been inside one of the pretty homes — until today. We had a lovely lunch at my cousin’s gorgeous new house, a modern gem of poured concrete and glass with big airy rooms, landscaped gardens with succulents, a tiled hot tub, a cool fire pit and  a fruitful Meyer lemon tree. We walked along the narrow lanes  between rows of small and not-so-small homes admiring the variety of architecture and colorful dr Seuss-ian vegetation. Four year old Lucy rode her scooter down the lanes and around a little circle surrounding a tall thick palm tree. She jumped around on a trampoline in the front img_0789yard of a pretty bungalow (a sign kindly welcomes little kids).

img_0778Dinner was excellent Vietnamese (bun with grilled shrimp and pork at Mama Hongs in downtown Burbank with my friend Susan from San Francisco and her adorable boys (yes 20-something boys can be adorable… especially if you have known them since they were babes) who live here.img_0801

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Stough canyon, H2O poke – Burbank 

img_0396My brother and I hiked up a mountainside above Burbank in a recreational area called Stough canyon on a cool sunny morning. I kept stopping to catch the view ( and my breath). Glorious slopes blanketed in dense bright green foliage (after days of rain, which fortunately I missed).

In the distant valley, like a faraway oz, rises the  skyscrapers of downtown LA. A little nature center at the trail entrance has some displays including real snakes that kids might enjoy. La la land!

Lunch was at H2O poke and fish grill, a new place on the main drag in bustling down Burbank (note to self: travel story?)img_0764img_0767

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