Going to Kansas City?

Here’s what I recommended to friends looking for places to stay and eat and things to do during a trip this week to Kansas City:

– A good recent NYT travel article (http://travel.nytimes.com/2010/05/16/travel/16hours.html) on the city – recommends staying at The Raphael which is what I was going to suggest (although I’ve never stayed there but heard good things about it.)  My husband, a former Kansas City resident, also  recommends this:
www.bestwesternmissouri.com/hotels/best-western-seville-plaza-hotel/

I don’t know most of the restaurants mentioned in the NYT story (except the BBQ places  Gates and Bryants, which are favorites). We also like the BlueBird Cafe (although it’s out of the way and hard to find) and Lidia’s – http://www.lidias-kc.com/, a good contemporary Italian place.

The new wing of the Nelson Atkins well worth a visit – including walking outside on its green roof/sculpture garden. We also like the Kemper Museum – although we haven’t been to its restaurant, which is mentioned in NYT story.


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Cycling and swimming along the Chicago Lakefront – Xoco – Taste of Chicago

Chicago on a beautiful summer day is hard to beat – and boy did we get lucky on Tuesday. The temps were in the 70s, bright sunshine, light breeze. My sister and I rode on the bike trail along the lake front south from North Beach down to around Hyde Park area – great trail, easy riding, little congestion (on a Tuesday), stunning views of the lake and the city, riding past sandy beaches and landscaped gardens.  I borrowed a bike but there is a bike rental at North Beach (and a few other places) – and the rental place has a free air pump, which we made good use of.

On the return trip, we stopped for lunch at Taste of Chicago – crowded but not as bad as a weekend. We “tasted” some good Thai dumplings, a so-so Greek sausage, and an icky Ukrainian dumpling (starchy dumpling with what looked like tomato soup atop it).  Later, I swam for the first time at the Oak Street Beach – the lake was cleaner and warmer than expected with a nice sandy bottom and manageable waves. Laid out on the beach for awhile. Very nice.

For dinner, I went with E and M to Xoco (“cho-ko”) the new Rick Bayless restaurant – we picked just the right time to go: 5:30 p.m. on a Tuesday. We’d heard about long lines and limited seating but this time worked great. We stood in line for maybe 5 minutes, got our food right away, and sat at a high top table on stools outside overlooking the street. Well-managed place.  Food was interesting – supposedly it’s Mexican “street food” but smarted up with artisanal ingredients – the sources for the food – the bread, cheese, meat etc – were prominently displayed.  The Woodland Mushroom torte was a favorite. The Ahogada – which some critic likened, accurately, to a Mexican version of an Italian sub, was messy and hot and tasty (golden pork carnitas, black beans served on crusty bread face down in a tomato broth with a “spicy arbol chile sauce” (wisely, this is not offered for take-out.) We tried one of the caldos (soups) – the pork belly vermicelli which was interesting but not our favorite although the avocado was especially creamy after floating in the thin broth.  The churros were outstanding – a lighter, less greaser version of what we’ve had in Spain. The hot chocolate wasn’t our cup of tea – I’m sure it’s authentic but too sweet for us (we had the Almendrado – a chocolate shot with almond milk.) Very good guacamole (made according to the recipe used by Xoco’s fancier sibling next door, the Frontera Grill) with “just made” (of course) chips. The homemade Mexican vanilla soft serve ice cream tasted pretty much like regular vanilla soft serve…But overall, the place felt unique and fresh, like something truly new and ambitious – and reasonably priced. We spent $60 for three – granted we didn’t have any alcohol.

Next time I’d like to try the Pepito and one of the  griddle Tortas (our two tortas were cooked in a woodburning oven).  Also would like to try the carnitas and the cocoflan (which they didn’t have when we visited.)

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bigger better river museum – Dubuque

We enjoyed the National Mississippi River Museum when it first opened in Dubuque in 2003.  A recently completed $40 million expansion gets a thumbs up from the DM Register today – which includes a 40,000-gallon aquarium, a huge wall of water with sharks and eels, and a “4-D” theater (the four dimensions apparently have to do with mist, movement and smell…”)

In a poignant nod to the Gulf Oil Spill, the new tank will be empty of fish to give visitors an idea of what a fish-less Gulf would be like. Big bummer, that.  There’s also an exhibit on the spill. (One of the exhibits I remember most showed how farm chemical run-off damages the river and water downstream.)

The Register story also recommends the multi-use Heritage trail for hiking, walking, biking and a river cruise on the River of Dubuque paddle wheeler. see: http://www.desmoinesregister.com/article/20100626/LIFE/6260302/1039/River-museum-gets-bigger-better

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Transporation between Chicago and Traverse City, Mi.

I’m trying to find an economical (as always) way to get my son from Traverse City, Mi. to chicago (and ultimately Des Moines) in mid-August. He can take the megabus from Chicago to Des Moines for $10 (I LOVE that bus!) but the first leg of his trip is problematic. No bus service of any kind, as far as I can tell. A one way plane tix is over $600. Another option is for him and his older sister (who is 25 so she can rent a car) to rent a car at the traverse city airport for $115 and drive back to Chicago. Then he’ll catch the bus from there. Wish there was a megabus between Traverse City and Chicago!

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“affordable” NYC hotels – sort of

We’re talking “affordable boutique” hotels in NYC – and the NYTimes ran a list of them last Sunday. Except that they didn’t seem all that affordable, were in sometimes undesireable locations, and several seemed quite claustrophobic and/or sterile. All this for $159 to $269.  The one that sounded most appealing is Eventi in Chelsea ($249 right now; $399 starting next fall – hardly “affordable”).

But after an unpleasant experience at a trendy affordable boutique hotel in San Fransisco – which despite its trendy art and toiletries felt like an insufficiently tarted-up  hotel for transients with still-tiny rooms and still-narrow halls  – I’d prefer for my money an affordable non-boutique hotel –  with less “style,” and more space and comfort.

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Dining in Chicago – some new favorites

I discovered some more great places to eat in Chicago during my visit there last weekend. They include:

– Shaw’s Crab House. This bustling, old-fashioned place, serves a tasty one-pound Lobster Boil for $22 in a lively dining room with attentive waiters. There’s also a cool bar that’s good for lunch – and has live jazz at night (or at least the Sunday night we were there.) The soft-shell crab got good reviews too.

– Taza is a fast-foody Middle Eastern restaurant at 176 S. Franklin Street, a block south of the Chicago River (handy for designers attending the annual NeoCon show at the nearby Merchandise Mart – which I also visited, tagging along with my sister-in-law, who is a designer in NYC).  A no-frills place with food shoveled into styrofoam-ware and served over the counter by cheerful men who are very generous with the free samples. The falafel was perfect – not too hard or soft or greasy. Also good chicken and turkey schwarma. Gyro meat and the lentil soup looked very good too.

– Brats at the Old Town Art Fair – served in a churchyard. Big juicy grilled. I ate it with a spicy topping of sauteed peppers and celery (that has an Italian-sounding name starting with a “g”)  It was dubbed “mild” but had quite the kick.

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A review: the Megabus from Chicago to Des Moines

I planned to blog from the road yesterday – specifically while cruising along Interstate 80 from Chicago to Des Moines in the Megabus but alas, the bus’s much-ballyhooed free WiFi was on the blink.  The driver didn’t know why but said this happens occasionally. Otherwise,  the bus ride was just fine – and for the $10 fare, better than fine. (Some people paid as little as $1 for the ride, a few others got two tix for $8 total. Fare comparisons dominated the chitchat amongst passengers. )

The bus departed on time (5 p.m.) from Chicago at the crowded Megabus stop just south of Union Station and Jackson Street, on Canal Street – and it arrived in Des Moines about 35 minutes late, which was no big deal. The bus was clean, the seats comfortable, the air not too cold or  too hot. The driver was courteous and informative, taking the time to fill us in on bits and bobs, like the one scheduled pit-stop at a small gas station on I-80 near Davenport.

A few minor quibbles, some beyond Megabus’s control, that  have more to do with the nature of cheap bus transportation in general.  The bus stop in Chicago was somewhat chaotic, with a large crowd fanning out across half a block as a succession of buses pulled up – one bus going to St. Louis, another to somewhere-ville Ohio, another to Ann Arbor/Detroit and my bus to Iowa City/Des Moines.  As one of the older passengers correctly noted, this open air bazaar – with no visible crowd control and no benches to sit on or lines to stand in – is relatively OK in pleasant weather, which we had yesterday early evening.  But it might not be so OK when it’s raining or snowing or bitter cold.

Many passengers, as expected, were young people in their late teens and 20s  some tattooed and pierced, some black-clad Goths with dusty white faces, two chic geeks, some inner city kids wearing droopy pants.  Great people watching and reminded me of my lost-youth, riding the Magic Bus in Europe.

But on my bus there was also  a large multi-generation Asian family with a pushy patriarch, a Mennonite woman, some middle-aged couples, a few moms with kids.  I worried at first when the watery-eyed man in front of me took a sip from a liquor bottle inside a brown paper bag but he was well-behaved throughout. So was the little girl who sat on the lap of the teen-ager  beside me. The rowdiest passengers were some  women in their mid-30s who laughed and talked loudly, as if they riding their very own party bus after hitting the bars on Division Street (which come to think of it was probably where they had been.)

There were other annoying sounds and smells but that’s to be expected: a rattle-and-squeak  from  somewhere in the back of the bus near the bathroom, pulsating iPod musak from somewhere in the bus’ mid-section (the Ipod must have been  cranked up to blow-your-eardrums-out volume), smells of fried chicken, McDonalds (from the pitstop in Davenport), a fully-loaded brat, and corned beef (my bad. I  brought the sandwich with me from a Chicago deli.)

Next time, I’ll remember to fire up my Kindle – or at least bring the cord so I can plug it in. (There was an outlet below my window but my cord was in my suitcase in the bowels of the bus.) And I’ll remember to leave my novel out of my suitcase. I’ll also remember to fire up my phone (which was also losing juice.) Thank God my iPod was still working.

All told, it’s great to have a viable and inexpensive new option for getting to Iowa City and Chicago from here.

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Old Town Art Fair – Chicago

I discovered a part of Chicago today that I thought I knew. Wrong. It’s Old Town – which I thought of primarily as Wells Street near North. But after wandering around the Wells Street Art Fair today, I discovered the Old Town Art Fair a little northwest – in a neighborhood I’d somehow missed all these years, around Menominee and Wisconsin. Beautiful residential area. Fun art fair too.

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Flying with a puppy #3

We got a puppy carrier to take on the plane today from my aunt and to my surprise it looks like my old LANDS END diaper bag – a little bigger than a kid’s school lunch bag and almost as confining. There is a ventilation panel on the side but otherwise it seems to be all enclosed. I had expected something more like a very small version of the kennel or crate our dog sleeps in. Guess this will work.

We also got the clever water bottle that converts into a water dish but it didn’t work with our six-year-old Vizsla Ernie – she just sniffed at the water in the weird dish and backed away. Maybe she’ll be more appreciative – and drink from it – when we’re on a walk and she’s thirsty. Here reaction today was: “why would I drink from THAT when I can slurp out of my trusty water bowl over there?”

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Dorset, England – where to go

I was last in Dorset, um, about 30 years ago and what I remember most is standing at the end of the a spit of land jutting into the water (known as “the cobb”)  in Lyme Regis, looking wistfully back toward shore – of course mimicking Meryl Streep in the movie “The French Lieutenant’s Woman” which was set and filmed there.  Should I return, I’ll keep these tips from a recent NYT story in mind:

– Alexandra Hotel in Lyme Regis;

– Hix Oyster and Fish House in Lyme Regis – “arguably the best restaurant” in Dorset. book ahead.

– In the town of Mudeford – The Black house has apartments for rent.

– In Weymouth, Perry’s Restaurant (although I’ll skip the venison in favor of the sea bass)

– Drive to the Isle of Portland and walk along Chesil Beach (I’ve read the novel of the same name by Ian McEwan)

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