On the Raccoon River Valley Trail – Redfield to Panora Iowa

Biking was hot and slow on the trail today from Redfield to Panora, Ia. (farm country about 45 minutes west of Des Moines), with the weather warmer and more humid than expected (92 degrees; who knows what percent humidity) but as always the ride  had its moments – we spotted three large raccoons (we think they were raccoons) crossing the trail, numerous exotic black and blue butterflies, a cyclist on a recombinant bike carrying a violin. (Yes, that was a violin.)

And there’s always ice cream. We used to go to PJs, a popular spot right on the edge of the trail when you arrive in Panora but one time it was closed so we asked around and found out about the 44 Drive In, west of town, past the small brick shops downtown. It’s nothing fancy – which is part of its charm. Just an old white and red trailer with a worn sign that smells a bit like onion rings and burgers, which we’ve never had. But the place is always busy. The malts are good and a small twist cone does the trick when you’re looking for a little kick.

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Filed under bike trails, biking, Des Moines, DINING, Iowa

A little Lollapalooza in Des Moines

Des Moines is getting some mighty nice spillover from the massive Lollapalooza music festival in Chicago, where my 18-year-old son is no doubt having the time of his life, along with his half-sister.  Two bands that are playing to thousands of people in the Windy City this weekend will play on much smaller more intimate stages in Des Moines soon after. The Black Keys play at the funky old Val Air Ballroom here on Sunday and even more surprisingly, Phoenix plays at People’s Court, a smaller venue in downtown Des Moines, on Tuesday (we’ll be there…and maybe at the Black Keys too – I’m a fan of the theme song they wrote for the new HBO show “Hung,” which also is set in my hometown of Detroit.)

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Filed under Chicago, Des Moines, Iowa, music

takemewithyou: Big Sur

My sister and her family may be heading south after her son’s baseball tournament in Monterey so here’s some ideas for Big Sur:

– Don’t miss a walk around Point Lobos reserve, on the ocean with its strange brown-rust-and-green seaside vegetation and rocky cliffs where otters and seals bleat as waves crash onto the rocks.

– We always enjoy eating at the rustic Deetjen’s Big Sur Inn. We found Cafe Kiva at Nepenthe Restaurant overpriced ($4 for a lemonade back in 2001) but what a view!

– At Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park our then-young kids loved crawling and stepping into the huge redwoods. Nearby is Pfeiffer Beach – another favorite on the ocean.

– The drive from Big Sur to San Luis Obispo took about three hours and is, of course, stunning. We really liked San Luis – a college town (cal poly) with a great midweek farmers market on its long straight main street (all the shops were open that night too). Also home to the wonderfully kitschy Madonna Inn – at least visit and tour the goopy public rooms and eat some pie in the coffee shop.

Hearst Castle, again of course. We spent about three hours there with the kids, taking the tour and I’m not sure what else. gawking. dawdling.

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Filed under California, DINING, hiking, LODGING

Takemewithyou: Monterey, California

My nephew Hank’s baseball team from Oak Park, Illinois is representing the Midwest in a national tournament in Monterey. Go Hank! Go Oak Park Eagles! So here are some travel suggestions for that lovely city for him and his biggest fans – his parents and siblings:

The aquarium. Enough said.

– We stayed at the Butterfly Grove Inn in Pacific Grove, just west of Monterey – just behind it is a monarch butterfly sanctuary  in a grove of sky-high eucalyptus trees. It’s a fixed up old motor lodge, pale pink with a old fashioned pool. http://www.butterflygroveinn.com/

– We ate at the Old Monterey Cafe for lunch downtown – good omelets, hash browns;

The Monterey Fish House for dinner – very popular local place with wonderful fresh seafood. It’s at 2114 Del Monte Ave;(831) 373-4647

Tomorrow I’ll add suggestions for Big Sur.

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More on Decorah, Iowa

Just for the record, we tried a few other restaurants along Water Street in Decorah – good sandwiches (although not the swiftest service) at Ede’s Gourmet and the Angry Pickle Deli (although I didn’t get an pickle, angry or not); and potent wake-me-up coffee and light not-too-sweet lemon poppy muffin tops at Java John’s, a welcoming,  bright and cheerful coffee house (vs. a dark, smokey,  grumpy, surly or hipper-than-thou coffee house, I’ve been to them all.)

Would have tried the sophisticated Rubaiyat:Food for Thought restaurant again (I had a great hamburger at the bar there last year) if it had been open Sunday night. We also dropped by the lovely Hotel Winneshiek which seems to be holding its own. (I always worry about these beautifully restored luxury boutique hotels in small towns after watching the exceptional Hotel Pattee in Perry, Ia. struggle.)

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Filed under DINING, Iowa, LODGING

Canoeing on the Upper Iowa River

Just back from northeast Iowa where my daughter, a friend and her teen-age son, rented a small cabin and two canoes at Chimney Rock Campgrounds near Cresco and Bluffton, Ia.  We requested a two-hour canoe ride but it was a lot less – largely I think because the river was so full and the current fast. We barely had to paddle – just steer every once in a while to keep from banging into a low-hanging tree along the shore. We stopped at a sandbar/rock-bar and body-surfed a patch of the river, allowing ourselves to get caught up and swept by the current which was fun albeit a tad scary since we had to land and stand against the same said current but no problems – two of us were/are lifeguards (I’m a little rusty but my friends 17-year-old son is a newbie.) The water was refreshing, not too cold. Paddling past the high stone bluffs rimmed with lush green trees was lovely.

Decorah is definitely in the running for Iowa’s pretty small-town college town – full of Queen Anne homes and interesting shops and restaurants along Water Street (the main street – not “Main Street” one street to the west). It was quiet on a Sunday night – except inside Mabe’s Pizza where half the town seemed to be eating – big families, little families, young kids, older folks. Nothing fancy but decent pizza with an interesting thin crust that bordered on a cracker in parts (and the 17-year-old teen in our group ate a cheeseburger served with a dollop of peanut butter. Sounds disgusting but he said it wasn’t bad. My daughter and I had the minipizzas and two drinks – $14 for dinner. not bad.

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Filed under Adventure travel, Iowa

Dreaming of: Northern Michigan

With two weeks to go before our vacation on Big Glen Lake near Glen Arbor, Mi., we’re starting to line up some things – including a restaurant to meet our relatives (who are staying at the Sylvan Inn) at on Saturday night. Trattoria Funistrada http://www.trattoriafunistrada.com/ comes well recommended so will try to book there – it’s only 9 minutes from our cottage.

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Filed under DINING, LODGING, Michigan

the best b&b around Traverse City

We’re vacationing in Glen Arbor, Mi. in August and renting a cottage on Big Glen Lake that, alas, is not big enough to include relatives from suburban Detroit who we hope are meeting up with us.  So I’ve been looking online at the lodgings around the area, trying to find a nice b&b or inn that’s affordable, not too far from us, and has decor that’s not too goopy. My favorites so far – although some are too far  – (and this is just judging from website pix) are:

www.tesoroinn.com/ (too far, alas)
www.kornerkottage.com (recommended by NYT ; also too far)
http://www.windinthepinesbb.com/

Other options: The Homestead, The Sylvan Inn and Glen Arbor   Bed & Breakfast

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Filed under LODGING, Michigan

salina, Ks.

Oh that I could share some of the secret charms of Salina, Ks. with you but alas we saw nothing of it but the inside of the Ramada hotel. Such is the reality of my husband’s family reunion. I did hear tell that Salina is the terra-cotta capital of Kansas – no small feat considering how much terra-cotta clads the buildings of Wichita – but I didn’t get to see it – or visit some of our favorite restaurants such as the Cozy Inn and Jim’s Chicken. We did stop today on the way home at Freddy’s – the frozen custard/steakburger chain we first discovered in Oklahoma which seems to be expanding across Kansas. (We last spotted it in Hutchinson, now it’s in Topeka and Junction City.) Very rich custard – maybe too rich. My stomach hasn’t been right since – and eating Gates BBQ, which we picked up in Kansas City, probably won’t help. But fortune favors the brave….

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Filed under DINING, Kansas City, Kansas misc, LODGING

lawrence ks

Our $49,99 ($57 w/tax) hotel room in Lawrence wasn’t bad at all – spacious, clean, sort of soft  beds but sleepable. There were some loud party girls at 2 a.m.  but that’s to be expected. So for the record, the motel is the Virginia Inn. I’d stay there again.

we ate breakfast at Milton’s on Massachusetts – good hearty omelette and strong coffee then walked along the street in the blistering heat, stopping in at vintage shops and KU apparel stores. Kids got the obligatory jayhawks t-shirts although lily got her’s  at a vintage shop.

we’re now at the ramada inn in Salina, ks. for a family gathering and this is the only sight  I’m  likely to see here.

t

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Filed under DINING, Kansas misc, LODGING