Exploring downtown Chicago

I have walked past the Chicago Cultural Center dozens of times without ever noticing it – why, I don’t know. But today, I finally noticed and entered and was amazed at what a gorgeous building it is, full of intricate bejeweled mosaics, high ceilings with elegant mouldings, elegant glass domes including one by Tiffany. My son and I wandered through the public spaces and galleries (which were a bit tricky to find.) We stopped by the Vivian Maier show, which was worth a visit although not very extensive and seemed to be as much photos from New York and beyond as from chicago.

On the first floor, lots of people had gathered in seats in front of a stage where four musicians played a free concert. A sandwich bar in the lobby looked like a good lunch option.

For lunch, we went to The Gage, a lively gastropub on South Michigan – I had a hard time selecting an item from the menu because about all of them looked great. I finally settled on the mussels vindaloo – a huge bowl of freshly steamed juicy musles in a light burnt-umber colored broth with the not-over-powering Indian spice (Vindaloo can often mean searingly hot spice but this wasn’t.) My son had a huge hamburger with blue cheese that fortunately came with the upright fries piled into a mug-like bowl. All very good, pleasant and swift service, nice ambiance. Will definitely return.

We stopped at the Chicago Art Foundation to browse in the gift shop, one of the best around, and admire the huge model of downtown Chicago buildings. It’s got every building west of Oak Street and way past the loop. Incredibly cool. And every 15 minutes, the lights dim to simulate the sun hitting the buildings, casting some in high relief.

Leave a comment

Filed under Chicago, DINING, museum exhibit

Where to eat in Memphis’ Germantown…

This comes courtesy of my friend Kathy who is on a road trip with her family from Des Moines to Houston via some of my favorite places, including most recently,   Memphis.  Before they left, Kathy’s family got some road food recommendations from a well-known BBQer in Des Moines who owns Woody’s.  Here’s the first restaurant they tried in Memphis’ Germantown area. Can’t go wrong with a place that offers complimentary deviled eggs!!

The Germantown Commissary, 2290 S. Germantown Road in the Germantown area of Memphis. According to the menu, a commissary is another term for a Southern general store. Interesting decor, with twinkle lights, and bleached animal skulls, movie posters and old tin signs on the wood-paneled walls. Great dry-rub ribs and tamales smothered in chili and cheese. Excellent coleslaw. Almost every dish comes with a deviled egg. Homemade lemonade and sweet tea. We didn’t have room for dessert, but they looked great: tall layer cakes and cream pies.

Leave a comment

Filed under DINING, Memphis, Uncategorized

Italian food in San Francisco

An old friend in San Francisco called today which reminded me that I have some new Italian restaurants to try when I next visit her and that city I left my heart in after my first trip there with my mother when I was 16. These are from the NYTimes:

Delfina Pizzeria – actually been there, done that, in 2008 when I was last there (and I gave it a nice plug in Real Simple, which I wrote a travel story for). Would love to return.
Perbacco – 230 California Street. The pastas sound particularly good (taglierini with ragu of pork, porcini and Parmesan!)

La Ciccia – 291 30th Street (in Noe Valley, not far from the Sunset, where my friend lives) specializing in Sardinian food, a region I haven’t visited in Italy but is on my list – one more reason: its sheep’s cheeses) octopus in dark tomato sauce sounds great and thin-crust pizzas too.

Farina – 3560 18th street.  (in the Mission District) – Ligurian specialities

Leave a comment

Filed under California, DINING, San Francisco

Gdansk again

The New York Times travel section seems to have discovered (rediscovered?) Gdansk in a big way. In January they included the northern Poland city in its “Where to Go in 2011.” Last Sunday, they plugged it again in response to a reader’s request for somewhere else to go after visiting Warsaw.

Gdansk has been on my list for the past two years since we hosted two students from there at our home here in Iowa – and my son visited them later that summer.  The NYT also recommends Sopot, as “the Hamptons” of Poland.  In 2012, Gdansk (formerly Danzig) will host the European soccer championship. Place to stay – new boutique-style Hilton (or Sofitel Grand in Sopot); Place to visit: Ergo arena (a symphony hall in a former power plant with a hip restaurant) and a beloved amphitheater in Sopot that’s reopening called the Forest Opera.

 

Leave a comment

Filed under Poland

Anecdote to a drab winter’s day in Des Moines: The Des Moines Art Center

We’ve had several days of grey damp dreary weather – so yesterday I tried to chase the blahs away by visiting the Des Moines Art Center with two friends.  It was quiet on a Sunday afternoon and peaceful. Admission is free – which always amazes me given the $18 to $25 fees charged to get into big city (albeit bigger) museums. I try to drop in a few bucks donation regardless.

The Art Center’s  new exhibit – large modern installations by German artist Anselm Reyle – didn’t do much for me but worth a look. And I always enjoy wandering around the galleries – for the art and the architecture. The IM Pei wing’s giant windows offered a dramatic view of a snow squall blowing across the Andrew Goldsworthy Cairn sculptures and Greenwood Park’s frozen rose garden which will soon, I hope, be full of blossoms.

Before visiting the Reyle exhibit it does help to read the art center’ s blurb about him:  (I must look up the word: perspicacity)

Anselm Reyle is a taxidermist. He breathes life into the exhausted or dormant visual motifs of Modernism and reenergizes these familiar forms to make them new. Reyle frequently utilizes clichéd modernist shapes, artificial colors, and non-traditional materials such as Mylar foil and straw bales to extend the prevailing aesthetics of painting and sculpture. In the process, he constructs a bond between art and popular culture, while simultaneously questioning the authorship of the artist and forging a distinct bond between the production of art objects and the marketplace. (

Reyle updates the history of modern art by borrowing its visual elements that have become overused or even considered tasteless in contemporary dialogues. These elements range from stripes to gestural drips of paint to fractured abstractions. Each format in Reyle’s arsenal recalls a predecessor and reflects his interest in the codes of taste that determine our attitudes and thoughts. Although an enlivenment or reconsideration of the past is a cornerstone of post-modern thought, Reyle’s approach retains vestiges of the modern era through his emphasis on the personal experience afforded by abstraction. This archeological memory, its subsequent manipulation, and the resulting shift in perspicacity formulate Reyle’s contributions to the art of our time.

Leave a comment

Filed under Des Moines, museum exhibit

When next in D.C.

I haven’t been to Washington D.C. in several years but I inevitably end up returning and when I do, here’s some suggestions from a recent NYTimes article about the Columbia Heights neighborhood in NW DC.

– Room 11, 3234 11th STr. NW. “tiny bodega turned wine bar.”

– Bloombars, 3222 11th St. non-profit “art bar” showing late-late night indie movies from 2:30 to 6:30 a.m. (don’t think I’ll be doing that.)

 

Leave a comment

Filed under Washington D.C.

No more “Ithaca”?

Trying to find time when our family – including three young adult children – can all get away for a summer vacation is becoming increasingly difficult. Too many conflicting schedules, especially with two kids soon to be in college and one a newbie  in the work world.

So finding a time when two families can get away together for a summer vacation is even harder.

The net result is that this summer, it doesn’t look like my Iowa family will be able to continue a cherished tradition of sharing a vacation and cottage on Cayuga Lake north of Ithaca, N.Y. with our dear friends, a Connecticut family whose parents are old friends of mine from college (Cornell U. in Ithaca.)

We’ve managed to do this every other year – seven times I think – since our kids (three of theirs, two of ours) were really young. And try as we did last weekend – talking over the phone between Iowa and Connecticut, with our respective calendars in front of us, comparing our kids’ college schedules and possible summer jobs, plus other family obligations from parent’s birthday celebrations to family reunions – we just can’t find a week that works for us all to get away together.

Actually, the biggest problem is the kids’ unpredictable schedules. So we parents are now considering a new option – the four of us sharing a summer vacation, sans kids. It’s better than nothing – we figure. And maybe in a few years, some of the kids will be able to join us again. Here’s hoping. But it still feels like the end of the era – and that’s sad.

Leave a comment

Filed under Ithaca, vacation rentals

The People in Panama who made our trip so great

As always, it’s the people you meet along the way, who make a trip great – and that was true once again during our recent trip to Panama. They included:

– The B&B owner in Bocas Town who went above and beyond the call of duty, sitting down to recommend outing options and biking into town to find a reliable water taxi driver to take us to a neighboring island with a beautiful beach (he hung out playing dominoes with other drivers until we were ready to return.)

– The man at the Visitor’s Center in Boquete who leisurely suggested outing options in the area, arranged a zip-lining adventure for us and smoothed the way with a taxi driver we had hired to drive us three hours to Bocas (the driver spoke little English, we spoke little Spanish, the visitor’s center man gave us his card and said to call at any time if we needed to communicate with the driver).

–  The staff at what we thought was the Visitor’s Center in Boquete (it was a real estate office’s “welcome center”) who found us the taxi driver – way beyond the call of duty.

– The young woman from New Jersey working at Bocas Blended, a clever sandwich and drink shop in an old bus, who greeted us warmly upon our return visit to her shop and shared her  feta-pesto sauce recipe.

– The young “fire dancer, yoga instructor and masseuse”  from Minnesota who volunteered to drive us in her golf cart to her favorite beach – an empty one next to the more well-known and populated Red Frog Beach.

 

Leave a comment

Filed under Panama

Bike adventures near Iowa

It’s March first and even though it’s foolish to believe this suddenly warm Spring-like weather will last, it has got me daydreaming about spring – and even summer. With that in mind, here’s a few bike rides I hope to do when the weather warms – and maybe you will too:

– In Wisconsin: The Great River State Trail, the La Cross River State Trail,  the “400” State Trail and the most famous of them all, the Elroy-Sparta Trail (which reportedly includes long railroad tunnels that require travelers to use flashlights.)

– In Missouri: The 225-mile Katy Trail (good for inn-to-inn biking, which reminds me of my trips as a kid with my family with Vermont Bicycle Touring). It goes past bluffs and tourist-friendly towns (according to the DM Register) along the Missouri River between Clinton and St. Charles (near St. Louis.)

Leave a comment

Filed under bike trails, Missouri, Wisconsin

Oak Park, Illinois suggestions

My sister Jill, who has lived in Oak Park, Illinois for about 13 years, offers these restaurant, gallery and book store  suggestions:
– Marion Street Cheese Market!
– Her favorite Italian restaurant is La Bella; favorite little French restaurant is Hemingway’s Bistro in the Write Inn
– An artist friend of her’s gives a major thumbs up to Prodigy Glassworks in the Harrison Street Arts District.
– The Book Table, is a good independent book store, and so is Magic Tree (children’s) book store.

Leave a comment

Filed under DINING, Illinois