Riding the Great River Trail along the Mississippi in Illinois

A friend just returned from biking the Great River Trail along the Mississippi. She started in Moline, staying overnight at the Stoney Creek Inn, then rode north to Port Byron, about 25 miles, where the “tugfest” – a tug-of-war contest with LeClaire Iowa (across the river) was going on. She stopped at a good ice cream shop in Hampton (I think called Remember When) and explored the towns north of Cordoba, ending up in Savanna which turned out to be a biker (as in motorcycle) mecca. She and her friend picked up some food for a picnic with a good view at Palisades Park. They also ate at Bass Street Chop House  in Moline, which was good.

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Rick Perry, lamb kebobs, dairy barn ice cream et al at the Iowa State Fair

If you want to see new presidential candidate Rick Perry up close and personal, a good opportunity awaits at the Iowa State Fair today where he will be speaking at 11:15 or so at the Des Moines Register’s “soapbox” at the Iowa State Fair. The fair was blissfully free of Republican presidential candidates last night but packed with people thanks to the recent arrival of perfect summer weather – low 80s, a light breeze, flawless blue skies. Annual fairgoers are used to much hotter muggier weather – so this nice stuff was a real treat.

I’d also recommend the lamb kebob, one of several lamb entrees offered at the Iowa Sheep Industry Association’s stand, located in a relatively out-of-the-way spot amidst the livestock barns (east of the sheep barn, across the street from the always popular Big Boar who this year was a 1,700-plus pound boar named Tiny). The pork producers outpost is much closer to the action – near the midway and along the grand concourse – and much busier than the lamb folks’ operation. But I found the pork chop rather dry and unflavorful, especially compared to the juicy well-spiced lamb. As always, a chocolate ice cream cone at the Dairy Barn was the perfect treat. And I gladly skipped the newest entry to the fried food on a stick category – fried butter on a stick.

One other tip – hitch a free ride on one of the tractor-drawn open-air shuttle wagons that winds through the fair. It’s very handy when your legs are suddenly getting worn out from so much walking and a good way to people watch as the shuttle moves slowly around the fairgrounds.

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Traverse City hotspots

We were staying very close to Traverse City Michigan when we were up north a year ago, bunking in a sweet little lakeside cottage in Glen Arbor, but we never made it into the big city, although I wanted to. Just ran out of time – too much to do in the small lakeside towns in the area. But now comes the NYTimes Travel section with some recommendations for TC which I will duly note here for our next trip there – which I hope will be soon!

– Artisandesign network, new gallery with local artists’ and designers’ work, especially furniture and “elegant dining chairs” by Woodbine.

– The Cooks’ House, a farm to table restaurant now in new larger location.

– Right Brain Brewery, 16 tap brew pub with all local ales. Must try the Black Eye P.A.

– Mana, “soul food” including the Divine Swine pulled pork sandwich.

– State Theater, site of TC Film Festival started by local resident and filmmaker Michael Moore

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Finally picked a place to stay in the Berkshires

After much research, I’ve finally settled on staying at River Bend Farm B&B when we are in Williamstown, Mass. next month. I was taken by its historic charm, location, and price. It’s a 1770 Colonial home – “magnificently restored” according to one review with only four rooms – and two baths to share. It’s a mile from town and costs $134 a weeknight (including tax….which is good for the pricey Berkshires.)

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London riots – not the city I love.

Just heard from two dear friends in London that they’re safe but very rattled by the rioting that has been raging across England. Makes me think back to 1981 when the Royal Wedding (Charles and Di) was followed by riots in London’s Brixton neighborhood  and Liverpool’s Toxteth neighborhood  (I was sent up to cover the Toxteth riots as a cub reporter, equipped with a notebook, pen, pen knife  and a banana. Yes, a banana given to me by a famous newspaper columnist who was visiting the London Bureau when I worked there. Fortunately I met a very nice magazine photographer on the train who was a riot veteran and we roamed the scary streets together.)

My pal F. reports that one of my old stomping grounds – the first place I lived in England, in 1980 – Ealing Broadway was heavily damaged by rioting and my pal M reports that she almost got caught up in rioting in Tottenham last weekend when she was going to a football match.  YouTube is full of disturbing riot scene videos. And one does wonder how this will affect attendance at the 2012 olympics hosted by London.

This from F.:  Just to let you know – we are okay here in war torn London. Very nasty scenes in the last few nights. Disaffected youth apparently organised by gang leaders are causing mayhem…mostly in inner city areas but sad to say -central Ealing near Ealing Broadway was pretty much destroyed last night by maurauding gangs.  I am pleased to say Mortlake has been untouched! All quiet in London so far but central Manchester and Birmingham are seeing big problems tonight. This is going to make our fragile economy even less likely to recover…and the Olympics is going to look less appealing to foreign visitors!

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Where to stay in Manchester Vt and eat in Bristol Vt.

A friend in-the-know emails this lodging recommendation for Manchester:  The Palmer House, upscale motel for about $150 a night.  Large rooms and beautifully maintained grounds make for a comfortable stay. 
She also recommends Mary’s Restaurant at the Inn at Baldwin Creek in Bristol Vermont for a treat after a pretty drive, not far from Burlington and Middlebury College.  The owners are very involved in the slow food movement. The Inn also looks lovely.

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Tried a new restaurant in Kansas City – Po’s Dumpling Bar.

We didn’t have time in Wichita last weekend to eat at our favorite Vietnamese restaurant Saigon Market so we tried Po’s Dumpling Bar on lively 39th Street  in Kansas City – not bad. The dumplings were unusually oblong-shaped and fresh tasting. The spicy (but not too) Kung Pao chicken and two vegetarian noodle dishes (one with thick and wide homemade noodles that reminded me of the egg noodles found in Midwestern’ chicken-and-noodles) also were also fresh tasting, with good quality meat and crisp vegetables.

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Finally picking an inn to stay at in Vermont!

After reading up on lots of inns in southern Vermont, we finally picked the Old Tavern Inn in Grafton (after I found a less expensive room than was listed online). Very hard call but I think Grafton will be the quintessential inn and village I’ve been looking for to show off Vermont to my husband – who has never been there. I was captivated by the beautiful Inn at Manchester – which is not in town but in the bucolic countryside with a pool – but was a bit put off by the outlet malls nearby. Also liked the more affordable and perhaps laid-back  Stone Boat Farm Bed & Breakfast in Jamaica, Vt.  Next time.

 

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A visit to the Swamp Fox in Knoxville, Iowa

After touring a reconstructed prairie in 100 degree heat (which was lovely except for some very irritating little flies with a nasty bite), we stopped by the Peace Tree Brewery in nearby Knoxville, which is in an airy old brown brick building, and then ate burgers around the corner at the Swamp Fox, in the town’s cultural center (which were guessing was once an old meeting hall.) Darned good patty melt! We passed a good looking ice cream stand on the way west out of town but were too full to partake. Peace Tree is open officially for samples on Thursday and Friday late afternoon and eves and on the weekends. We’ll have to return sometime.

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Great Western Trail from Park Ave./Des Moines to Cumming – quiet friday

As expected, we had the trail almost to ourselves on Friday because 1) it’s a week day 2) so many cyclists were away on RAGBRAI. We had an easy 20 mile ride from Park Avenue in Des Moines to Cumming although we almost had a collision with a fast-moving golf cart when we rode through the golf course. In Cumming, we found a good picnic spot in the local park on a picnic table under an overhang. And got my friend N’s soft tire filled with air at a very cool shop that redoes vintage English sports cars (on tap – a very sweet pale green Jaguar convertible and a jaunty white and red paneled Aston Healy convertible.). Was sorry to hear that the guy who fixes and shows off vintage juke boxes in town – I did a story about him years ago – has retired.

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