On tap for Chicago: Sharon Hayes, Logan Square Farmers Market, Clybourne Park, Chocolate etc.

Some ideas for our weekend in Chicago:

– The Logan Square Farmers Market Sunday from 10-2. The Congress Theater Lobby 2135 N. Milwaukee Avenue

– Clybourne Park, last weekend to see the Pulitzer Prize winning play at The Steppenwolf Theater.

– “Ann” – a play about former Texas Gov. Ann Richards Sunday through Dec. 4 at Bank of America Theatre, 18 W. Monroe St.; $20-$85 at 800-775-2000 and broadwayinchicago.com

– The exhibit all about Chocolate at the Field Museum. (From the museum website:Get a better understanding of where this sweet treat comes from — hint: it doesn’t grow in the candy store — when the popular exhibition returns to the museum, allowing visitors to explore the relationship we have with chocolate and its rainforest roots. Learn about the plant, products, history and culture through science and pop culture.)

– Sharon Hayes exhibit in the modern wing at the Chicago Art Institute. I don’t really understand what it is but that makes me even more interested. Something to do with performance art, video installations and free speech.  (From the institute’s website:The performance artist’s first solo show at a major museum in the United States features three recent moving-image and photo-based installations exploring the role of speech in personal and political contexts.) (more below)

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– This looks incredibly cool – alas we won’t be around when it’s happening.

Twilight Tour

What: A guided tour ($15) at the Driehaus Museum of how Chicagoans might have entertained after-hours in the late 1800s

Where: 40 E. Erie St.

When: 6:30 p.m. on the first and third Tuesday each month; the next tour is Nov. 15.

More information: 312-482-8933, ext. 21; driehausmuseum.org

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More on Sharon Hayes: From the art institute’s website:

The performance artist’s first solo show at a major museum in the United States features three recent moving-image and photo-based installations exploring the role of speech in personal and political contexts.

November 10, 2011–March 11, 2012
Galleries 182–184
Member Preview: November 9, 10:30–5:00

Overview: Over the past 15 years, American artist Sharon Hayes has been probing how speech—both public and private—intersects with politics, history, personal identity, desire, and love through her performances and multimedia installations. …she has tackled a diversity of issues and topics including the 1968 Democratic Convention, Patty Hearst and the Symbionese Liberation Army, and the wars in Afghanistan and Iraq.

This presentation, the first solo museum exhibition of the artist’s work in the United States …includes several recent media and object-based installations as well as a live performance. 

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Things to do in Hawaii – advice from a friend who lived there.

 

 

Here are recommendations on things to do in Hawaii from a friend who used to live there:

 

Big Island

Akaka Falls

Volcano Nat’l Park

CUTE LITTLE ZOO ON HILO SIDE

BAY WHERE CAPTAIN COOK DIED –  NEAR TOWN OF CAPTAIN COOK

CITY OF REFUGE – ON THE WATER; STATE PARK;  GOOD  SWIMMING AROUND IN NEARBY BEACH

Honolulu

Bishop Museum

Academy of Art  — (GOT TO MAKE RESERVS IN ADVANCE FOR LUNCH THERE)

Iolani Palace

Chinatown

Waikiki Aquarium  ( very small,  right near/on the beach)

Hanauma Bay

The drive from Hanauma Bay to wherever the road turns away from directly by the water – before Waimanalo

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Dining in Honolulu and on the Big Island

We’re starting to make some advance reservations for dinners in Hawaii. Here’s what’s on tap:

– Alan Wong’s – a gourmet splurge in Honolulu and favorite of our foodie first family in the White House

– Merriman’s – in Waimea on the Big Island

– Kilauea Lodge in Volcano, Hawaii (Big Island – we’re also staying at the lodge.)

Also on our list but no reservations:

In Honolulu:

Duke’s

Helena’s Hawaiian Food (on School Steet and Houghtailing.) Very crowded and only open Tues-Friday from 10-7.

MALASADAS AT LEONARD’S Bakery (malasadas are a portugese doughnut-like pastry)

JIMBO’S (1936 S King St Ste 103 Honolulu)  – HOME-MADE SOBA NOODLES AND MOCHI; HOLE IN THE WALL BUT “ONO”  (delicious)

ZIPPY’S –  (for “PLATE LUNCH”) –  is a fast food/diner type of place that’s been around for ages – multiple locations. (Also heard about Rainbow drive-in for plate lunch; another alleged Obama favorite.)

 

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The connection between Cornwall, Connecticut and Hawaii’s Big Island: who knew?

In preparation for our upcoming trip to Hawaii, I’m reading Sarah Vowell’s book  Unfamiliar Fishes which traces the history of the U.S. annexation/Americanization of  Hawaii  in 1898, which began with the efforts of  New England missionaries in the 1820’s to Christianize the islanders.

To date, I’ve learned that some of the Yanks who arrived, full of Christian fervor, in 19th century Hawaii – first landing their boat on the Big Island’s western shore, where I will be landing in a plane in January –  had spent time in Cornwall, Connecticut, a sleepy little village in the state’s bucolic northwest corner where my husband and I happened to stop en route to the Berkshires in September.  Small world.

There’s even a plaque in  Cornwall marking the former grave site of  Hawaiian Henry Opukahaia – credited with helping bring the Yankee missionaries to his homeland – who was originally buried there in 1818.  An orphan, he found his way to New Haven where he converted to Christianity, got swept up in the missionary fervor, and went to a school run by missionaries in Cornwall. He ended up dying at 26 in Cornwall before he could return to Hawaii to spread the Good Lord’s word. His remains were transferred to Hawaii in 1993 where they’re in a vault facing the seat at Kahikolu Church in the town of Nao’opo’o, Kona on the Big Island. (Might be worth a visit.)

Overall, I’m finding  Vowell’s book a good preparation for Hawaii (both in understanding Hawaii’s  history and culture and in figuring out what to see  there) and a good read, although it is definitely not your typical historical tome, punctuated as it is by Vowell’s  rambling digressions, oft-witty asides and commentary linking the past and present, plus her apparent disdain for organizing her dense copy into chapters.  (I’m half way through and so far the book is one very long chapter.)

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Pondering where to eat during next trip to Chicago

I don’t know why we don’t have a ready list of tried-and-true favorite restaurants to go to in Chicago – we certainly go there often enough and have been to many places, some several times. Still I always seem to have trouble deciding where to go next, maybe because Chicago has so many options and they keep growing and my family members have various preferences and opinions about where to eat.

That said, here are some ideas I’ve read about recently in Chicago Magazine – in Evanston and in Chicago:

Fraiche, 815 Noyes ST. Evanston – for brunch: ginger scone, french toast egg dishes, lemon kiss cookie.

– For Vietnamese banh mi sandwich (baguette with pork, veggies, mayo etc.) – Saigon Sisters, 547 W. Lake St. or French Market, 131 N.Clinton in the Loop.(Description of their food sounds best – although most expensive.)

Del Seol (for bulgogi – korean rib-eye sandwich) – 2568 N. Clark St.

Bar Le, 5014. N. Broadway – veggie avocado sandwich.

Bun Mi Express, 3409 N. Broadway (although wary of the description of sliced pork roll as “b0logna-like”)

 

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Revisting old Twin Cities favorites – Lucia’s, Walker Art Center, U of M Gehry Museum

We did visit some old favorites last weekend in the Twin Cities that didn’t disappoint. They include:

Lucia’s, the venerable Uptown restaurant, was packed on a Saturday night, as expected so we were glad to have booked a table well in advance. It’s a cozy unpretentious place that prides itself in a constantly changing seasonal menu using fresh local ingredients whenever possible. One mild complaint – both our soup and a main course arrived luke-warm bordering on cold. They were quickly warmed up. And the desert – an updated version of German Sweet Chocolate cake – was too sweet and heavy. (The cake was more like chewy macaroon and the frosting more like denser chocolate.) But the appetizers and main courses were beautifully done. We had a cup of a white bean soup with vegetables and chorizo; an amazing ravioli filled with caramelized cauliflower with thick bits of bacon on a bed of arugula, a very tasty baked chicken dish served with perfectly cooked brussel sprouts, chewy mushrooms and a bread pudding; and a leg of lamb in calvados with sliced apples and braised vegetables.

– I’ve never really gotten used to the Walker Art Center’s new building – feels sort of disjointed and without a center and the graphics show left me cold. But always good to check in there – and at the sculpture garden across teh street.

– The University of Minnesota’s Art Museum has a new wing also designed by Frank Gehry, who designed the rest of the place. It’s a crazy shiny steel-clad building (although there is some rust…) that looks a bit like a crumpled up beer can. Inside the space is light and airy and all the better for displaying an eclectic collection of contemporary art.

– We took the drive along the river from U of M to St. Paul – absolutely gorgeous on a crisp fall day with blazing autumn leaves. Wished we were riding our bikes!

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Twin Cities bakeries/sandwich shops – the good and not as good

We did the grand tour of quirky independent bakeries and sandwich shops in the Twin Cities last weekend and here’s how they stack up:

Cheeky Monkey, a sandwich shop on Selby Avenue in the Cathedral Hill neighborhood of St. Paul (i.e. just west of the Cathedral downtown) –  This is a keeper. Lively vibe, good service, tasty food, interesting neighborhood – just down the street from Garrison Keillor’s fantastic Common Good Books. We shared a Muffaletta which was perhaps not the most authentic but still substantial sandwich with a zing served with very good homemade potato chips.

Patisserie 46, (46th and Grand, a bakery in southwest Minneapolis’ “emerging Kingfield neighborhood” (according to the NYTimes.) We should have eaten lunch here. The sandwiches looked great – one I spotted was thick slabs of real-meat turkey served inside a hearty baguette. Next time. The pastries also fancy and delicate. We got some croissants and a very good olive sourdough bread to go.

Be’wiched, in the warehouse district of Minneapolis on Washington Ave., this sandwich shop and deli didn’t have the warm funky environment of Cheeky Monkey. It had more of a sleek, clean vibe which wasn’t as welcoming. The sandwiches – allegedly among the nation’s best according to a prominent food mag – were a little too strange for us.  The Roast Beef (on ciabatta served with horseradish, havarti and onion jam) was better than the tuna confit (real pieces of fish/not tuna from a can served with black olives, cucumber, aioli, preserved lemon on Focaccia), a good idea but strange tasting and pricey at $9.50. Four tiny containers with different side salads came with our sandwiches and we tried but didn’t finish any of them. Oh well.

Bars Bakery – This place, down the street from the Cheeky Monkey on Selby was closed, but sounds like it’s worth a visit. It specializes in the classic dessert bar, which is apparently a Minnesota staple (our b&b served some at breakfast come to think of it, one made of lingonberries.)

Evelo’s B&B – Come to think of it, some of the best pastries we had were at this Lowry Hill B&B near Uptown, the Lake of the Isles, the Walker Art Center and downtown where we like to stay. I don’t know which they made and which they bought but we had wonderful brioche (soft, sugar-dusted muffin-shaped pastry with dollop of vanilla custard inside), kringle (I think), and lefse  (a Norwegian pastry that’s a piece of dough/flatbread slathered with butter, honey and cinnamon then rolled and cut into bite-size pieces. Tasty. Fortunately it wasn’t served with that other Norwegian specialty, lutefisk.)

Also on my list which we didn’t try:

Sweets Bakeshop near Patisserie 46 and the Salty Tart Bakery in Minneapolis.

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Amazing views and vertigo at Guthrie Theater in Minneapolis

We finally visited the new (okay five-year-old) Guthrie Theater last weekend during a visit to the Twin Cities. What an astonishing place. Designed by Frenchman Jean Nouvel’s (2008 winner of the Pritzker Prize)  its odd-looking exterior is a  rounded cobalt highrise (echoing the nearby historic flour mills downtown) with a protruding platform that sticks out towards the Mississippi River like a bridge lopped off in mid stride.  As suggested, we took the very narrow steep elevator that reminded me of an elevator in the London Tube system to the fifth floor and walked out on the platform which we had all to ourselves on a quiet Saturday morning in late October.  Astonishing views of the River,  St. Anthony Falls and the Stone Arch Bridge, bright sunshine bouncing off the blue glass, and I felt like an ant whose antenna had been ripped off. Dizzy. Disoriented. Dazzled.

Inside, the strange interior – soaring spaces with cut out windows offer very precise views of the river and city and a lovely green landscaped park dotted with fiery red-leafed trees – also had me feeling woozy. We rode the elevator up to the ninth floor for another dazzling view, this time through huge panes of yellow-green tinted windows. Interesting how the glass totally changed the view we’d seen several floors below. We also walked around the curving space lining one of the theaters and through the sleek darkened bars on the fifth floor.

Building tours are available the first Saturday of the month. Next time, we’ll go to a performance there at one of the complex’s three stages (the “thrust stage” and Shakespeare seems good idea.)

for photos and more info: see http://www.guthrietheater.org/about_guthrie/our_spaces

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New places to check out in Minneapolis this weekend


We are off to Minneapolis this weekend and here is what’s on my list to check out:

The new wing of the Frank Gehry-designed art museum of the U of Minnesota campus. (Gehry also designed the new wing.) One complication – the U of Iowa/U of Minnesota football game at 2:30. Guess we’ll try to go to the museum after the game starts.

– The graphic arts show at the Walker Art Center (and as always, we’ll revisit the sculpture garden across the street.)

–  A reportedly great new bakery in an “emerging” Kingfield neighborhood: Patisserie 46 4552 Grand Ave. S. Maybe check out Cafe Ena, 4601 Grand Avenue South, a Latin fusion restaurant, or Saffron Restaurant and Lounge, 123 N. 3rd street for some Middle Eastern grub. See review (below)that accompanied it’s “Best Middle Eastern Food” award from a local magazine:

And we’ll do some of our old standbys in the Uptown area around Hennepin Ave. where we usually base ourselves:

– Stay at Evelo’s  Evelo’s Bed & Breakfast 2301 Bryant Avenue South in the Lowery Hill East Neighborhood. From the outside, this 1897 three-story house house is unexceptional. Inside, it’s remarkable – a well-preserved Victorian home with original woodwork, period furnishings including lots of Tiffany stained glass lamps and lovely dining room with reproduction wall paper designed or inspired by Charles Rennie Mackintosh, the famous Scottish architect and designer.

– Dinner at Lucia’s, 1432 W. 31st Street. (Apparently it now has a Dog Bar…not sure what that’s all about.) We m

Most Americans think of Middle Eastern food as hummus and shish kebab. But Middle Eastern countries such as Syria, Iran, Israel, Iraq, Egypt, and Turkey have their own distinctive cuisines, a blend of culinary traditions that evolved over centuries of migration and war. Saffron is a fitting place to savor the diversity of the Middle East, as the restaurant features flavors of northern Africa, the Persian Gulf, and the Arabian Peninsula. Everything on the menu, from the giant beans laced with dill and olive oil to the sweet and savory chicken bisteeya in flaky phyllo dough, is carefully prepared and faithful to the ingredients’ flavors. Take the lamb brain with tomato confit. The savory richness of the brain, which is accompanied by a whiff of organ-meat fragrance reminiscent of foie gras, is balanced by the sweet preserved tomato and garlic. A touch of parsley elevates the flavor and rounds out the dish to perfection. Saffron has a fantastic cocktail program, featuring original drinks made with infused liquors: Spices such as white and Szechuan peppers, mejdool dates, and chamomile transform familiar spirits like gin, whiskey, and brandy into veritable elixirs. They say the history of a land is written in its food. Saffron is a reminder of how complex the Middle East can be.

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Pilgrimage to new FLWright hotspot in Mason City

Just back from a tour of the Historic Park Inn Hotel in Mason City, designed by Frank Lloyd Wright. Fantastic$18 million renovation of the 101 year old hotel and bank buildings (now a lovely hotel with 27 rooms.) And the FLWright aficionados have discovered the place – both tours offered today were full of people, some almost as knowledgeable as the docents giving the tours. Next time, I’ll have to book a room and stay for the night. Also found a good place to eat – new spot about two blocks west of the hotel call Chop with very affordable salads, sandwiches, egg dishes served in stylish room with FLWright overtones (same ochre colored, scallop patterned plaster walls etc.)/ Lovely day.

Did I mention this is the only hotel designed by FLW that remains? (I think there’s a hotel in Oklahoma that’s in a FLWright building but it wasn’t originally designed as a hotel. Must doublecheck that.)

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