Lists are dubious but oh so easy to read – and so I sometimes do. TripAdvisor’s “Winners 25 Best Destinations” (no word on how the “winners” were chosen) includes many obvious places and I was pleased to see I’d been to the “top eight” (Paris, New York, London, Rome, Barcelona, Venice, San Francisco, Florence yadah yadah yadah) but some places that we’re visiting soon also made the list. No – not Kiev (see scenes above) or Bucharest (see below) or Moldova (the world’s most unhappy place if you believe this report http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ENK4rS7Y02U), where my husband is going. But Prague squeaked into the top 10 at #9; Berlin was #11 and Chicago #14.
Weekend away: Farm bounty in southwest Iowa

The Henry A. Wallace Country Life Center includes a community-supported agriculture garden, managed by Sarah Costa, above. Great photo by my friend Gary Fandel at the Iowa Farm Bureau!
Check out the story I wrote that appears in tomorrow’s Minneapolis Star Tribune Travel section on what to do and see in beautiful Adair Count, Iowa – including a pristine old farmstead and good farm-to-table restaurant at the Henry A. Wallace Country Life Center, historically preserved buildings in Greenfield Iowa, a way cool museum with lots of vintage airplanes and a big rock along a country road painted each year with a new memorial honoring U.S. military vets. Star Tribune story on Greenfield Iowa
Filed under Agritourism, Iowa
Iowa hinterland food scene on the move! latest Iowa Best Bite winner in Oskaloosa.
Chef Pam Oldes plates salads for the 2012 Best Bite Restaurant Challenge in Grinnell. / David Purdy/The Register
For those of us looking for good places to eat in the Iowa hinterland, there’s more good news from the organizers of the Iowa Best Bite contest – the winner of the second contest was chosen and will open a new restaurant in Oskaloosa called On the Green. DMRegister article about On The Green in Oskaloosa The first winner opened her restaurant Prairie Canary in Grinnell last fall and it’s a great addition to the restaurant scene not only in Grinnell but Iowa. I like that both winning chefs are women – although this appears to be just a coincidence.
One of the firms that organizes these contests told me that other Iowa cities are now lining up to host the third contest, two cities – as yet named – in particular are eager. Bring it on!
In Kansas, thinking of Pennsylvania
Morning in a small town in western Kansas, the wind whipping across endless green and tawny fields beyond the big bay window where my mother-in-law’s red geraniums thrive in intense sunlight. Even from inside the house, you hear the wind, thick and muffled, as it bashes into the walls and windows; and see the wind, in mighty gusts, as it buffets every which way the branches of the few trees out here.
This sprawling split-level, 1960’s tan-brick ranch house in an unincorporated Kansas town, pop. about 100, could not be more different from the upright two-story, early 1900’s red-brick row house in Easton, Pennsylvania, pop. 26,800 today (probably more when I was a kid in the 1960s) where my grandmother lived and I spent many a summer and holiday, visiting from Michigan.
But as I got up today and padded into this big empty home on the range in my bare feet, I felt like I was back in Grama Betty’s small house on the East Coast. Both were once so full of people and life, our lives, and now they’re not. Gradually they filled up and just as gradually, they emptied out, the shift going unnoticed at first and then suddenly painfully obvious.
Both remain so full of memories at every turn, memories big and small, of celebrations and gatherings and laughing fits and hurt feelings and big moments but even more, of commonplace, everyday events, the minor moments, I guess, but not so minor since, combined, they became the stuff of our lives. This is where we once were all together.
In the struggling industrial city along the Delaware River where my Grandma lived (once the proud home of Dixie Cup and Crayola, who needs the neighbors’ steel!), her three-bedroom house at the corner of 8th and Spring Garden Streets had small well-defined spaces, each with a clear, distinct purpose. Her house, our house, was one of many packed closely together on a narrow street, each with its front porch and tiny yard out back. My grandma’s block was toward the top of a steep hill and from a second story bedroom, I loved looking south down to town, at the fraying city way below. And that’s where the view ended. It was a vertical view, all up and down, top to bottom, so unlike the view from this big rambling house in a speck of a town surrounded by wheat, cattle, corn and the occasional feedlot, kill plant, wind turbine farm and nitrogen fertilizer factory (owned by the infamous Koch Brothers, no less).
Here outside Dodge City (which has about as many residents as Easton), the house’s main room is a high-ceilinged, open plan affair where the kitchen flows into the dining area which flows into the living room, shades of The Brady Bunch house, a precursor of today’s pompously-named Great Room. A smattering of other homes, tiny battered bungalows and more spacious, contemporary ranches, form a loose cluster around the tall, humming grain elevator, the town’s focal point. The houses seem to have sprouted up willy-nilly, as need be, with plenty of space between them and wide front lawns and oddly configured backyards, sitting along dirt roads only recently named (so ambulances and fire trucks can find them, if need be).
The view from my in-laws’ house, beyond the small graveyard where my father-in-law and my brother-in-law are buried (a brother-in- law I never met; he died at age 19, as a soldier in Vietnam) is never-ending. Land and sky. Land and sky. Land and sky. Sometimes a few cows, a tractor, a pickup whizzing by on the paved two-lane highway. The view is horizontal, all wide and across, all horizon, a view that never stops.
Yet oddly, I feel like I am in Easton today. Or maybe, not so oddly.
My grandma’s house is further along in the inevitable process of acquiring that ghostly aura, that sentimental presence from the past, of becoming what was rather than what is, of attaining family shrine status. It has not been ours, technically, for years. Grandma died in the 1980’s, and grandpa way before that. Years ago, staying in Easton during my 20s, when Grama was in the hospital, I had the same jarring experience that I had here today, of being alone in a house that was always so busy and crowded. Now, on the rare occasion when I pass through Easton I can only lay claim to our house from an awkward perch on the sidewalk, in front of the porch where I spent so many hours as a kid rocking in a big white wooden chair. Someone else owns the house. But it will always belong to me, to us, our family.
My mother-in-law still owns this house but she doesn’t live here anymore. Her husband of 50-some years died last year. Approaching 90 and increasingly frail, my husband’s mother now lives in Dodge, in a nursing home. My husband is picking her up, as I type, to bring her back home so she can go to her beloved Sunday morning church service at the town’s sole church. So this house is still ours, more theirs since I’m an in-law, but very much my Iowa children’s, who will remember it as deeply, in an almost tactile or physical way, not just through their emotions, as I remember my Grandma’s house.
Here, there are still family photos at every turn, familiar furniture and knickknacks and paintings by the family artist, reminders everywhere of the lives led. The scorecard from the family Scrabble game last Christmas (when L. proudly triumphed), the ancient wedding photos and awkward adolescent photos, the souvenirs from family vacations, the unreturned library book from God knows when, the gifts unused but always thoughtfully displayed, the battered, out of tune piano, the McGovern campaign buttons, the South American handicrafts.
There’s still some beer and viable food in the frig, left behind by the last visitor, and viable pots and pans to cook with, once you find them., although I found out the hard way that there was a hole in one plastic bowl, after eggs I’d cracked and set aside to scramble started dripping out from some opening, forming a sticky yellow pool by the time I noticed them. (Here’s an idea for a reality show: Cooking in your mother-in-law’s kitchen! Better yet, cooking with your in-laws for your in-laws in your mother-in-law’s kitchen! Think of the possibilities, the drama, tensions, conflicts, disasters, heartwarming moments. All this and recipes!)
There are some years left to be lived in this house but not as many as there once were. A lot of the clutter is gone, more kitchen shelves are bare, the old cereal boxes and the old wooden bread bin finally thrown out. The commotion is gone too, for now. We will all gather here again, at Christmas at least, and no doubt for other occasions to come. But this morning it is so quiet. Maybe that’s why the wind sounds so loud.
Filed under Kansas misc, Pennsylvania2
Kansas City and Lawrence dining
We splurged on dinner Friday night in downtown Kansas City at a cool new restaurant that harkens back to the 1920’s mob era and allegedly produced whiskey during prohibition. I have it on good authority that the Rieger Hotel Grill does indeed has in the men’s bathroom reading “Al Capone pissed here.” The food was very good – soft shell crab with lemon aioli and greens; pork cheek with “local polenta” ( according to the menu) and ” some kind of pea and carrot thing” (according to D.). it has a nice vibe, an old fashioned narrow high ceilinged storefront with nice impressionistic paintings of what appeared to be a symphony orchestra (bravo!). Good to see these kinds of places popping up in reclaimed once dying parts of downtown. must check out another newcomer nearby, Anton’s Tap Room.
In Lawrence, after staying at a tolerable (and cheap) Quality Inn, we breezed through the farmers market which had several guitar playing folk singers and lots of green onions. We ate breakfast at the brand new location of Milton’s, which moved to a bigger place around the block from its previous spot on Massachusetts Ave. (fun fact: Lawrence is was named after Lawrence, Mass. Outside Boston, which must have been a bigger deal in the 1850s when Lawrence Ks was founded as a Free State bastion…where John Brown hung out.) Good French toast at Milton’s although we were tempted to eat across the street at The Bourgeois Pig, for the name alone! Picked up a bread at Wheatfields Bakery, a couple of Jayhawks Basketball t-shirts ( because the males in this family cannot get enough of them) and hit the road again, heading West.
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Filed under Kansas City, Kansas misc
Two places to fix your flat along the bike trail in Des Moines!
We have come across two flat-tire repair stations along the bike trails in Des Moines – how great! Each station has a number of tools you need to fix a flat (all attached to cords that attach to the station so someone can’t walk off with them) and even a hook so you can hoist your tire up to fix it. How cool is that? (It would be even cooler if I knew HOW to fix a flat but that’ s my issue.) I found one at the start of the trailhead south of Ashworth Pool in DSM (en route to the Great Western Trail ) and another downtown by Mullet’s along the Principal Riverwalk by the baseball stadium.
Both were gifts from some charitable soul whom I need to mention here (when I collect her name.) Thank you!!
Filed under bike trails, biking
Dark stormy night in Iowa/memories of Moore, Oklahoma and twister
Another dark and stormy night in Iowa after a surprisingly sunny day. The same weather as yesterday when a storm suddenly darkened the sky and tornados touched down near Des Moines. Fortunately no loss of life or serious damage reported. Unlike Moore Oklahoma where a tornado struck yesterday, killing 10 people. We stayed at a hotel in Moore in 2007 when we were attending my stepdaughter’s graduation from the u of Oklahoma in Norman. Even back then Moore was recovering from a 1999 tornado.
The weather was clear that day. But not four years earlier in Oklahoma City when we attended my stepdaughter’s high school graduation during a a tornado warning. And we were sitting outside on metal bleachers in a football stadium. The tornados had technically passed by graduation time but we still got rained on.
How good bread and coffee revived Des Moines’ food scene!!
Interesting story today by Jennifer Miller, who has been doing a terrific job of covering the burgeoning food and dining scene in Des Moines and Iowa, about the advent and progress of artisanal bread making in Des Moines since the 1990’s.
My theory – – not yet substantiated but that hasn’t stopped me from sharing it with many a visitor and newcomer to DSM — is that finally getting excellent bread and coffee ushered good food/dining into Des Moines. The restaurant/grocery store scene was pretty dismal when my husband (then boyfriend, I guess) arrived here in 1990 but the emergence of not only decent bread (Pain Pane) but later terrific bread (South Union), as well as good coffee/coffee houses (even before Starbucks) gradually led to better places to eat and shop and finally find things like a good cheese selection.
George Formaro (the South Union guy) first made sandwiches and soup to sell with his bread at little shop behind the Register (that I visited almost daily when I was a Register reporter during the 1990s) and then onto pizza and one restaurant after another and, of course, Gateway Market. It was interesting to learn from Jennifer’s story that George’s quest to perfect the burger bun led to George’s latest successful restaurant, Zombie Burger in Des Moines’s East Village. (I rest my case.) I’ve watched the Logsdons’ progress (most recently with the terrific La Mie Restaurant in the Roosevelt Shopping Center) in a somewhat similar fashion.
Of course, work remains – DSM still needs a decent bagel!
Filed under Des Moines, DINING
Lessons learning while buying train tickets for Eastern Europe
Who would have thought it would be easier to buy train tickets online for Peru than for Germany and Eastern Europe? Okay, I’m not willing to say that’s true yet. But buying tickets online for train trips this summer through Germany, Poland and the Czech Republic was harder than expected. I managed to find some of the train schedules on the DB Deutsche Bahn website (a German company http://www.bahn.com) but the site didn’t always list the fares – or indicate when or if the tickets could be purchased online. (In some cases, it looked like I’d have to buy them by making a phone call to Europe.)
Meanwhile, on the site that I could buy at least some tickets online – Rail Europe (www.raileurope.com) – I couldn’t always find schedules or fares. I finally had to call Rail Europe and pay a $15 fee for phone assistance – which turned out to be worth it, even if I had to leave my name on an answering machine and wait for an hour for Rail Europe to call me back (better than lingering on hold I guess.) Here are some things I learned through this process:
– If you can find a train schedule but NOT the price or when/if the tickets can be purchased via DB Bahn, email their help line (Sales@bahn.co.uk) and you will get some if not all the information. (This is helpful especially if you’re trying to see if it costs more to take the train or fly.)
– If you can’t figure out how to buy the tix online via Rail Europe, call and pay the additional fee ($33 all toll when you add the processing fee, which includes the cost of mailing the ticket – which are paper and not available for online printout.) I was told that it would have been very hard to do-it-myself online because the three train trips I needed to book are unusually complicated. They’re not the typical Yank tourist routes (Berlin-Gdansk anyone? Not to mention Gdansk-Krakow and Krakow-Prague). And they involve three different countries with varying ways of selling train tickets. (The Poles, for example, won’t let you buy your ticket more than a month in advance but I could buy the tickets involving Berlin and Prague about two months in advance.) I also found help by emailing service@raileurope.com.
– Figuring out the price and booking a sleeper for an overnight train is tricky because the countries we’re visiting – unlike some others, apparently – require that you buy two separate items for each journey (a ticket, which gets you on the train, and a reservation, which specifies a seat or compartment on the train, – as I understand it.)
– A Eurail pass, which we’ve used in the past, didn’t work for this trip because of our particular schedule and because we’re taking two overnight trains. Oh well. I liked the ease of the Eurail pass – but then I was traveling for months, not weeks, when I used one on several occasions.
– Read the fine print – especially to see how many stops the train makes! There’s also various classes/speeds of train. I never really figured this all out.
– The Polish Rail website wasn’t much help.
– Rick Steves’ website also has some good information on train travel http://www.ricksteves.com/rail/
– Trains vs. Planes: Sometimes flying is comparable in price to riding the train (ex: Gdansk-Krakow) but not always (example Krakow-Prague where flying was much more expensive.) Planes of course are a lot faster – for Gdansk-Krakow flying takes 1.5 to 2.5 hours (direct vs. connecting flight) while the direct overnight train takes 11 hours. But we went with the train 1) because we so seldom get to ride a train, especially an overnight train and still find this romantic (that may change.) 2) the times of the direct planes didn’t work well with our schedule – one was 6:30 a.m. and the other 5:30 p.m. 3) It’s often a hassle to get to the airport vs. the train station. 4) we do save money by taking an overnight train and not paying for a hotel that night, for what that’s worth.
– I did opt to fly (EasyJet) from London to Berlin rather than take trains. (way too complicated…)
– Paper tickets. Apparently I can’t print tickets out online. And the paper tickets won’t be mailed out until a few weeks before our departure date (even though I bought them two months in advance) because the Polish ticket can’t be issued until a month before we travel. Grrr… Here’s hoping it all works out.
Filed under Czech Republic, Germany, Poland, public transportation, train
Zumba by Gray’s Lake in June in Des Moines!
First there was Yoga in the Park at Gray’s Lake in Des Moines – now there’s Zumba by the Lake (same location on the southeast lawn) this summer on Saturday mornings in June for 45 minutes starting at 8:15 a.m. (followed by Yoga from 9-10 which runs May 25 through Sept. 28). This might get me to return to Zumba, for a month at least. Although I love the 9 a.m. Saturday morning Body Jam class (another dance-based cardio workout class) the Walnut Creek Y, it kind of conflicts with our Saturday morning trips to the farmers market in downtown Des Moines because the market is really crowded when we get there at about 10:30-11 a.m.

Filed under Agritourism, Des Moines







