Beautiful Adair County (Iowa) in Greenfield and beyond

The Iowa Aviation Museum celebrates Iowa’s

Never realized how gorgeous Adair County, about 55 miles west of Des Moines is, especially on a perfect spring day. Classic Iowa farm country, driving along a rollercoaster two-lane highway past lush green pastures with grazing cows and shadows from the clouds moving across the land; a hawk soaring high above a tidy farmstead; the kind of drive where you seriously contemplate what would be better to have – a red or a white barn? (I’m still torn.)

En route to Greenfield just off Interstate 80, I not only stopped at the famous Freedom Rock but there was the artist painting his annual ode to veterans – just in time for Memorial Day. This year the huge boulder is home to a graveyard with fallen soldiers, white stones on a green lawn, a soldier kneeling beside one stone, a woman laying down in front of the stone. Interesting to read the names of all the people driving by from all over the country who have signed the guestbook in a little overhang nearby.

From there onto the incredibly lovely recently restored Hotel Greenfield – gorgeous early 1900’s structure with lots of original fixtures and moldings, vintage photos, nice combination of antique furnishings and contemporary art. Well done. Equally well done is the newly restored opera house, now known as the Warren Cultural Center, a red brick corner building with a turret at the edge of the tidy public square surrounding a red brick Romanesque courthouse. All very pristine. Enjoyed the crafts by Iowa artisans inside Ed and Eva’s, a shop on the ground floor of the cultural center and a nice woman took me on a tour upstairs of the pretty little opera house, which begins with a contemporary blond wood and glass stair case leading to a surprisingly light and airy concert hall with light pink walls with the original stencils restored. Must return for a concert sometime – word has it the acoustics are amazing. So nice to see these buildings restored to their former glory.

Also stopped at the Iowa Aviation Museum – a little hanger off a dirt road by Greenfield’s tiny airport that has a mighty impressive collection of vintage aircraft collected and then donated by a local couple. Old gliders and two seaters (one with wicker seats) and word has it, you can go flying in one of the two seaters once the one little pup plane to do this is back in action. A very nice woman kindly took me around the hanger, inviting me to sit in the planes (I was afraid I wouldn’t get out once in – kinda cramped quarters) and proudly showed off all kinds of aviation legends with Iowa roots (who knew) from the Wright Brothers, whose father had land in the Adair County area, to a woman who taught Amelia Earhart how to fly (Amelia spent time in Des Moines.) Well worth a visit!

I had a light sophisticated  lunch at the beautiful Henry A. Wallace Country Life Center – the farm house/home of the former Vice President under FDR. I’d eaten Friday dinner at the Gathering Table, the center’s restaurant (see photo of barn below), but not lunch – it was equally good. Salad of greens, a vegetable tart made with fresh asparagus from the center’s garden (as well as mushrooms, carrots, all top a thin crisp but buttery wedge of baked pastry dough). And the perfect dessert: homemade ginger yoghurt with chocolate curry truffles. Yum.wallace.jpg

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Filed under Agritourism, Iowa

Afghani food in Skokie (illinois)

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Lunch Specials - Special Plates - KoubidehSpeaking of exotic food in unlikely places, I’ve had Algerian Food in Elkader ( Iowa ) so why not Afghani food in Skokie (Illinois)? This place comes well recommended by my stepdaughter! http://kabulhouse.com/

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Filed under Chicago, DINING

Cabins to stay at in Decorah Iowa

We were hoping to stay in Decorah at what looks like the lovely Fern Hollow Cabin but alas it was booked the dates we wanted. Here are some other options!

1. Trout River Log Cabin
2336 Trout River Rd., Decorah, IA [map »] (see photos below)

2. Pepperfield Project, 

next door to Fern Hollow Cabin, run by  the original gardener and orchardist for Seed Saver’s Exchange, and is a teacher on all things garden. Guests stay in home with him and share the kitchen.

1575 Manawa Trail

(563)382-8833

http://www.pepperfieldproject.org/

3. Loyal Rue

563)382-2593

Loyal has a restored log cabin 11 miles N of Decorah.

Trout River Valley

welcome to Trout River Log Cabin, a 19th century Norwegian-built log house nestled in the rolling hills of Northeast Iowa.

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Filed under Agritourism, Iowa, LODGING

Air B&B options and the newTrout Run Trail in Decorah Iowa

I finally got around to joining Air B&B and found two good options in Decorah, including Fern Hollow Cabin, (they’re both in old log cabins), where we hope to go this weekend to ride bikes on the new Trout Run Trail which looks incredibly cool. Opened in September 2011, the trail is  an 11-mile loop around this outdoorsy northeast Iowa city, snaking along the Upper Iowa River (our favorite canoeing river in Iowa) and adorned with public art/sculptures. It runs past Luther College, the Decorah Trout Fishery (home of the famous Decorah eagles, whose nesting via webcam captivated a worldwide audience last year…word has it the eagles have moved on. We saw a spectacular eagle in flight near a nest in Gray’s Lake Park in Des Moines yesterday!)

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Filed under biking, Iowa, LODGING

“Whole-animal cooking” in Evanston (Illinois) – Found Kitchen and Social House

Always looking for places to eat in Evanston since our son is a junior at Northwestern and this suggestion comes today courtesy of the New York Times travel section: Found Kitchen and Social House at 1631 Chicago Ave. (847-868-8945) although wish the place took reservations! “Haute-but-homey” “seasonal small plates” “fracophile bent with whole-animal cooking.” (Whole-animal cooking? This presumably means eating the whole animal – including the heart and liver.)  I’ll skip the “pickled beef hearts with deviled eggs, beets and baby greens” but this sounds good: “chicken liver mouse with bacon marmalade and toast!” Also run by daughter of Morton’s Steak House owner…Gotta like the restaurant’s “social mission” below…

Found’s social mission, to “hire and train people coming out of homelessness” as a stepping stone to living more independent lives is fundamental to our philosophy.  The restaurant also stays mindful of the environment by repurposing found objects, recycling, composting, and supporting Evanston-area farms and businesses whenever possible.

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Filed under Chicago, DINING, Illinois

May 3, 2013 More Snow

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Filed under Iowa

May 2, 2013 Iowa snow

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Filed under Des Moines, Iowa

Scoping out the Ottolenghi restaurants in London!

Last year, my stepdaughter got me a cookbook by the Israeli-born London Chef Yotam Ottolenghi – and I then remembered that a recent New Yorker had a profile of him, so after reading it, I tried a recipe or two. So far so good. The recipes are heavily dependent on fresh produce so I’m hoping to try more if we ever get a real spring and summer here. (Pardon my skepticism but it’s May 1 and there’s talk of snow arriving soon.) Now that I’m going to London, I’m eager to visit one of his restaurants but see that only one – in Islington which isn’t near my usual stopping grounds – is a sit-down restaurant. But may have to make a trek there anyway. I’m particularly curious about his middle eastern food, especially since he’s from Israel and his head chef, Sami Tamimi, is  Palestinian. The other Ottolenghi outposts are nearer to my usual haunts – in Kensington, Belgravia and Notting Hill – but they appear to be primarily take-away food.

Our People

Behind the food stands a dedicated team, full of enthusiasm and creative zeal. They make Ottolenghi what it is. Unfortunately, we can mention just a few.

Yotam Ottolenghi writes a weekly column in the Guardian Weekend Saturday magazine. Together with Sami he is the author of the Ottolenghi Cookbook, published by Ebury Press in 2008.

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Filed under London

Sweat the details when contemplating flying RyanAir and EasyJet from London

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IATA
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Callsign
RYANAIR
Founded 1985

So my trip to Poland (Gdansk, Krakow) and Prague this summer keeps growing – first I added Berlin. And then when I saw that I’d be flying home via London, I had to figure out a way to stop there too and see all my pals and the city where I used to live and will always love.

Then came a mad search to find those great cheap flights I’ve been hearing about from London to the continent – and I found several very reasonable flights from London to Berlin but the fares kept going up as I ruled out several airports to fly out of in London (no to Southend, which I’d never heard of – it’s in Essex – and which one English friend said would take as long to get to from central London as it takes to get from Des Moines to Heathrow; and no to Luton, which I did fly to Israel out of back in, um, 1982 and is also a schlep; yes to Gatwick and Stansted, which are reasonably easy to get to via public transport from central London) and as I ruled out very early flights (which would rule out getting to the airport via public transport.)

It looks like I’ll end up with a flight for about $98 – which isn’t the $40 I first thought it could be (although that hardly seemed possible) – but it’s not bad. That’s about what it costs these days to fly from Des Moines to Chicago one-way (thanks to Southwest Airway’s arrival in Des Moines.) I was tempted to take the train from London to Berlin but it stops in Paris where you have to switch trains and I don’t think I could bear to just pass through Paris.  So plane it is!

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EZY
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Founded 1995

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Filed under airfare, London

Nordic in Minneapolis

Not sure we’ll get to Minneapolis again as soon as I like but when we do, these suggestions from Travel + Leisure are worth trying:

Bachelor Farmer – with the city’s first rooftop garden

The American Swedish Institute’s Fika, serving open-faced sandwiches (smorgas) (which looks a bit like the cafeteria at IKEA)

Union – run by a former staffer of the famous Copenhagen restaurant Noma.

FIKA, the Cafe at ASI

 “More than a museum cafe, this bright spot is a serious attempt to integrate local ingredients in dishes that are faithful to the tradition of “fika,” an institution in Sweden.”New York Times

FIKA is the American Swedish Institute’s new Nordic-inspired café inside the Nelson Cultural Center.

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Filed under DINING, Minneapolis