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We packed a lot into our last two days here, dividing our time between the California and Nevada sides of the Tahoe Region. Up the road from our Alpine Meadows abode, we spent several hours on the spectacular Five Lakes Trail, a five mile trek that is almost all uphill (or up mountain) outbound, zigging and zagging up a mountain dotted with tall pines below a ski lift at 8,673 feet altitude. I was very happy to finally reach the small clear lakes where we turned around and went downward. I later read the trailwas “strenuous” which was more offputting than the original “moderate” difficulty description.

Feeling virtuous and achy, we took a drive north along the bay to the Nevada side of the lake on the east. In Incline Village, we drove along Lakeshore Boulevard, aka Billionaires Row, a heavily shaded road with large gated drives on the lake side with mansions, presumably, below. Twenty years ago, I had a chance to stay at one (long story) but balked at the coast of last minute plane tickets from Des Moines.

I’ve wanted to go to Lake Tahoe ever since. Just past Incline Village on highway 28, we found a wonderful trail for biking and walking that hugs the lake. I’ve heard it referred to as the legacy trail, the east shore trail. Whatever the name it was stunning. We parked along the highway (in one of the few spots permitted) rather than paying for lots further way and walked down along the water past Hidden Beach, toward a small visitors stop where you can park for 20 minutes and explore.

The trail continues a short distance to Sand Harbor State Park which looked like it has a great swimming beach. We also drove a little further to Thunderbird Lodge, a historic sight that was closed but looked interesting. Next trip.

At Gar Woods, a restaurant and pier overlooking the lake in Carnelian Bay we had drinks (I had the speciality rum slushy, a “wet woody” (a somewhat rude sounding name) made with prickly pair syrup. We shared some steam clams and enjoyed the view from the deck.

In Kings Beach, we stopped at two of the shops lining the highway to get gifts, including the North Shore Art Center.

Near Tahoe City, we had an excellent Sunday brunch at the Firesign Cafe, another popular spot with locals, for good reason. We sat at the bar because the place was packed. Woodsy rustic decor. Warm and welcoming. We also picked up some goodies nearby at the Tahoe House Bakery, which also has some gourmet cheeses and charcuterie. We bought a huge ginger snap cookie and a slice of carrot cake – that’s dinner! Why not? We’re on vacation (for at least a half day more).

We had gorgeous weather again, although chilly temps in the morning (30s, 40s) so we took a short steep hike (as advertised) up eagle rock for a spectacular panoramic view of Lake Tahoe. I think the anxiety of the hike, especially the short last part where the trail disappeared and we had to figure out how to get up the last rocky incline, was worth the view. I’ve never quite recovered psychologically from my fall at the end of a hike in Norway in 2018, when I tripped on a tree route and broke my arm (the second break for that arm.)

We tried to find a few other nearby hikes but couldn’t find the trailheads so we kept driving past emerald bay along a steep road carved into the mountain with hairpin curses and some but not all sections with guard rails. Again, the views at Inspiration Point of the emerald-colored bay and the navy water beyond were worth the anxiety of contemplating driving off the cliff.

Taylor creek visitor center was closed for the season but we walked on the interpretative nature trail (the rainbow trail) to a clear broom and stream where salmon were spawning. Apparently this happened sometime between October and February for about a month so lots of people, some with huge cameras and tripods were on hand. In the clear water we could see red salmon darting around and several dead silver salmon.

We learned that when Pacific salmon are ready to spawn (have offspring via eggs) they turn red to attract a mate. But after they lay eggs they turn back to silver and die because the whole process is so exhausting. (Atlantic salmon don’t die after spawning.)

For sandwich fixings, we stopped at Tahoma country Market and then returned to our chalet in alpine meadows for a lovely lunch outside on the deck with a pine tree covered mountain in the distance.

Tonight we went to the charming town of Truckee where the annual Halloween parade was on tap. Dozens of children and their parents dressed in very creative costumes and walked behind a fire down Donner Pass road, the main drag lined with old Victorian buildings with shops for well-to-do visitors. Before the parade, the kids trooped through various boutiques, outdoor stores, art galleries and bars lining the street to collect candy from shopkeepers.

Dinner was at the cottonwood restaurant, which has a great view from on high of downtown Truckee, a fun, lively bar and so-so food and service. We dropped into Moodys bistro in the old fashioned Truckee hotel, which has live music and a busy bar. It looked like fun but was packed.